I have 15 videos on RUST REMOVAL Here is the link for the RUST REMOVAL PLAYLIST-- • RUST REMOVAL VIDEOS --... Please like & subscribe #rustremoval#electrolysis#evaporust#corrosionremoval
Hello Mr. Pete, after I take the tools out of the electrolysis tank and wash them with the brush and fresh water; put them in a tub with a gallon of pool acid (HCl) diluted to about 50%. This takes off the magnetite, (black rust) and they come out beautiful iron gray. (This only takes a very short time; watch it and you can tell when all the black is off. Wear chemical gloves, a mask and an apron!) Rinse in a 5 gallon bucket of water, then throw them in a 5 gallon bucket of boiling water, this cleans off all the acid and also heats up the tool for the next step, throw or dip them in a bucket of oil, (any kind, leftovers, etc.) I then pile them on a cardboard to cool for a few hours or a day or so. Wipe with a rag, and PRESTO, a nice gray tool and no more rust. They don't seem to rust again, as it seems the oil gets down in the pores of the hot steel. 1/2 my working tools are this way. Thanks for all your very good and informative videos.
Better yet "How to clean things in the dish washer without the wife knowing." Or: "Sneaking in new tools without the wife knowing."😉 Great info. Thanks Mr. Pete.👍
Hello Mr Pete , I’ve done a fair amount of rust removal with this process and what you needed to do was intermittently remove the rust collected on the sacrificial anode ( say every 12 hours ) . At that point they would have continued to remove rust from the cathodes . They tend to reach a point of saturation and need to be “reset” . I enjoy your videos , keep the camera rolling 😉
Our Arts and Crafts class did this when I was in the 7th grade. The teacher asked all the students to bring in some old rusty tools. I brought in a handful of rusty 12 inch timber spikes. Many of the kids didn't have any rusty tools or anything else to use so I shared my extra timber spikes with those kids. We started this project on a Friday and by Monday it was finished. The results were not very good but it was a fun class. The teacher got into a little trouble for dumping the waste water into several large potted planters in the courtyard that was between two buildings. That was 50 years ago. Memories!
You sir are a very good man. I have watched the vast majority of your videos. I wish you could have been my shop teacher when I was in school. You make learning interesting and fun. Thank You for sharing your wisdom and experience with us!
I have a 55 gallon plastic drum set up for an electro tank. I use old lawn mower blades for the anodes. When the current drops off I scrape and brush the anodes clean to re-invigorate the system. Interesting note. The Confederate Submarine 'Hunley' was salvaged in 2000 and put into electrolysis for many years as a preservation method.
You mentioned Habitat for Humanity (and the ReStore locations) a great place for buying donations of tools (and building supplies, furniture, etc). I work Thursday mornings at the ReStore in Elgin Illinois sorting through tool donations. Boy, I have seen some rusty stuff! Drop by and I will give you a tour. Ask at the front counter for "John in Tools".
I remember that I want to "subtract" rust from the tools, so they connect to the negative terminal, and "add" the rust to the sacrificial iron, so it goes on the positive.
@@g.tucker8682 all I know is you better not get confused. If you get it backwards the parts will be destroyed. I came close once to destroying an engine block one time.
I thought the results looked pretty good - the tools still look old, because they are, but not rusty and neglected. I prefer the blackened look to the kinda scorched gray that the expensive chemical stuff produces. I know there are a lot of saw users out there, myself included, who would rather see the nice saw plates put to real use. Not the end of the world, of course, although some would try to make a federal case of it. Thanks for another interesting video!
Thanks for the video Lyle. I have yet to find any rust removal method I am happy with in all situations. I find the one I am using the most is molasses, though it takes weeks to work, it seems to removes the least amount of good material. I like glass bead blasting, but I no longer have access to the process. I hope to set up a blasting cabinet some day. Too many projects, not enough time.✌
This is generally step two in my process for cleaning old car or machine parts. Step one is to soak over night in a bucket of lye (sodium hydroxide) which will de-grease and de-paint. Even if I do decide to blast the parts lightly before replating or painting, knocking the worst of the crud off first really extends the life of blast media. I save the expensive Evaporust for hardware which I wire wheel to finish and/or fling across the shop. My wife does not mind if I poach the occasional bit of Tupperware for the shop. We had only been married a few weeks when she came home to find most of a small block Chrysler in the dishwasher. As long as I don't do that again, she looks the other way.
After all the rust removal techniques which would be your “go to” method. Thanks for all the videos, I consider you my mentor. I have a 10 in South Bend K lathe because of you. I thank you
Happy belated birthday, Me Pete! (the guy from Windy Hill Foundry tipped us off in one of his recent vids). And thank you for all the great educational content.
Thanks Mr Pete. Interesting video. Not sure this is the best way to remove rust. Re: Made Rite--Loved 'em. Bet not many folks know what we are talking about.
Thank you so much for this video. I’m restoring a drill press from 1933 and this process has worked wonderful to remove all the rust. I’m using a brake rotor as the anode, I figured it has a lot of surface area and I always wondered what to do with the old brake rotors, after I put new ones on the car
My morning coffee always tastes better with one of your videos, Mr. Pete. I really like the saw blade cathode idea, by the way. Thanks for yet another wonderful edutaining video!
Instead of disconnecting the battery charger and dumping tools into a bucket of water. Just switch it off while picking a few items to clean and oil, and then let the rest still undergo a tiny bit of electrolysis to remain flash rust free.
Eifel Plyers! THANK YOU SO MUCH ive been trying to figure out the name of those for a while!! i absolutely loved the set I had and I lost the small jaw portion of it and could read the stamps on the side!
Hi Mr Pete i have not tried this to remove rust but i do have the exact battery charger as you have got it off an old friend 25 + years ago . good video . JM
I have used electrolysis on tools with good results but maybe the steel was different than what you have. I removed rust from the bore of an old muzzle loading rifle barrel by installing O-rings on thin stainless tubing placed in the bore. I used a PVC pipe for my container.
I used to clean cast iron skillets that way. Works better if you give them a scrub with steel wool between soaks. Rinse in cold water and dry them with compressed air and they wont flash rust.
It looked like two of the sets of pliers were hung by their insulating handles, so there would be no electrolytic action, yet they seem to have come clean as well. Makes me wonder how a soak in sodium carbonate solution without any power would do. The corrosion on the Vise-Grips has removed the (nickel?) plating so unless you re-plate them they will never look great.
Hay guys great ideas and thanks because I'm working on the tools that agave been handed down to me from my grandfather to my father and now with me. I'm working on the screwdrivers that have side wooden grips and although I have the best latest tools with me I just want to keep the memories of my family alive. Thanks again
Thanks Mr Pete! I have a large, Champion Buffalo Forge camel back drill press which is rusty and needs restoration. Since all the parts are huge, I want to try electrolysis. I will be using a 250 gallon plastic tote and a 36 volt golf cart battery charger. Fingers crossed!
Those vise grips are the best made. They were made in Dewitt Nebraska by Peterson Manufacturing. It’s stamped on the side!! They are out of business unfortunately. Those will last forever!! I have several versions of them. It was a small town business. Too bad they sold out! Enjoy the channel.
Lol, can't stop the spite mowing Tubalcain, but it doesn't affect the video quality. It is always top notch. It is nice to see you clean up those tools and find them a home.
I've watched your videos for quite awhile, think this is the first time I saw a mistake. Noticed that on some of the pliers you had the wire wrapped around the insulated handle.
1 Tbs. per gallon of water works very well with the Arma and Hammer washing soda. A plastic kiddy pool can take on larger car parts and this stuff can be poured directly into a flower bed afterwards when emptying the tub or pool. (Not a vegie garden though). Worked with it for years in doing up various Model A Fords and currently my 1925 Ford Model T Runabout/roadster. (Don't use copper wire or it puts in a greenish goo to the mixture as it works). I usually use rebar and not the metal strips as you did, as rebar is cheap and can be found at a lot of construction sites as trash to be tossed away. I rinse them with a gallon container of Dawn dishwashing liquid and water. Most stuff cleans up nicely and some say that you don't have to coat them after the Dawn and water rinse, but I always use just WD-40 or a product called Corrosion X. I ride a Ural sidecar made of Russian metal which is prone to rust, and that Corrosion X product keeps it all nice and clean of rust, even during the wet winter months. Either works well to keep the flash rusting devil at bay. Nice video and thanks for sharing the info.
I wonder if you had removed the rust instead of turning the saw blades, would,nt you get a better result, because the saw blades conduct electricity better again? or put more salt in the water ?
I use an old salt chlorinator that will do 20 amps at 8 volts DC . This way a stronger solution of washing soda can be used with heavier guage wire and thick steel straps connected in series as the anodes . This will really rip the rust off things like old corroded bench vyces etc .
Great video Mr Pete thanks for showing us the process even though you didn't get the results you wanted was still super enjoyable to see you try. Keepem coming
I tried a very rusty old drill bit, and used vinagar and a battery charger. I only had to leave it in for about 20 min. I was very surprosed on how it turned out.
I quite like that 'blued' effect you get on some of the tools. Its a bit like the cold-bluing solution you can buy for rifles and pistols. Fascinating video and looking forward to the next as ever!
Mr. Pete, I wonder how much better the de-rusted tools would look if you gave them a short bath in an acid solution followed by a rinse and oiling. It may take off that mung finish and get down to base metal.
I have soaked some in white vinegar but it really smells bad on your fingers if you don't wear suitable gloves! This looks a good method - I'm going to look under the sink cupboard for soda crystals and I have an old skool charger but only 4 Amps but it doesn't mind being maxed out - its an old bradex type!
I searched everywhere for the washing soda. If you can't find it try oxy clean powder...don't know if it is better or worse but it worked well for me. I find the black residue is also a problem using evaporust...usually it will wire brush off easily.
A wire brush is hard to beat unless you cant get to all of the part with it. Evaporust seems to be catching on and works pretty well, it is a weak acid but is pricey if you need much of it. I have bought from the pipe and fence supply store a gallon jug of what I think is the same product as Evaporust, smells the same and works the same that is concentrated and is much cheaper.
This process is a lot less expense compared to those chemical rust removers such as Evaporust although some of the chemicals do a cleaner job but very expensive. I wonder if a 30 amp charger makes any difference vs. a lower amp?
Great video, One question though. How long do them sacrificial saw blade anodes last for before they disintegrate? Reason I ask is I want to upscale the amounts. Need a good quality secure garden shed 6'x8' and on ebay there is rusty 3mm - 1/8" steel sheet getting sold at a good price.
My preference would be for a wire brush wheel as well, but it won't get into the joints of the pliers and the worm of the adjustables the way this will. I'd try this method for difficult to wire brush objects.
For those of us who don't have any discard sawblades handy, or the stringer bars like you have, would it be feasible to use those cheap bar clamps from Harbor Freight? I believe the main component of them is iron, maybe a smaller portion of steel included in it?
you can't have too many tools " space the final frontier " and the time spent looking for the one you need. i come across the tool i was looking for, on the previous search, but I like the improve things. thanks for the info' what happens to the hydrogen gas ?
Handy video, I’m going to watch your other de-rusting videos. I wonder if different electrolytes besides sodium carbonate might give better results. (I see you also tried vinegar, I’m going to watch that one next) (Commenting to help with the YT algorithm :-)
This one took me to 2020 when some of us creators were doing "Quarantine Quickie's" (@@)! This wk I was given a pair of 1-2-3 block's that Nona mite have used when building the Ark. I first re-tapped all the 3/8x 18tpi bolt holes, and then spent the next 6 hrs lapping and checking flatness. Was happy when the rang together on all sides, so thx to my neighbor, now have 2 sets in box :)> I like that you will be donating to HFH, they are a great assit to Humanity! Bear.
