This video covers a high level overview of how RV electrical systems work. Feel free to ask questions in the comments, thanks for watching! link to the battle born batteries: amzn.to/3egx8U1
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My only question is since this is a 30 amp service, I see you have the 30 amp main breaker but then there are 2- 20’s and a split breaker that’s tough to see…this all adds up to more than 30 amp. Does that mean you can only have certain breakers on at certain times so they don’t trip or am I not understanding how the system works? Thank you
All breakers are on at the same time, the breakers are to control the upper limit of power usage. So a 15 amp breaker may only have 1 amp flowing through it depending on what power is being used. It’s possible the total current from all the smaller circuits could exceed the 30 amp limit without exceeding any individual circuit breaker limits. That’s why the main breaker exists. So overall you just monitor total power useage at any given time. Same scenario is possible in a house, too many devices on at one time could trip the main breaker.
@@Cpmobile Ok thank you. I’m trying to determine whether to go with a 30 or 50 amp service on my race trailer which has small living quarters. I’ll have 8 total 110 receptacles, 1 for a plug in AC unit, 1 for a small air compressor, 1 for a car battery charger and 1 for the converter/charger…the rest are just misc. DC power will be water pump, shower fan, car winch and low voltage LED exterior/interior lights. The trailer will be plugged into a portable generator all the time. Based on what you’re saying I think a 30 amp service would be sufficient because not all of these things will be on or used at the same time.
Absolutely wonderful explanation and beautiful board. It takes a lot of effort to make that board. Just letting you know, it is recognized. You do scare me with how many components you touch with bare hands.
Very niiiiice display and simple, but comprehensive overview of the electrical power on RV’s!!! Best dang explanation and display I’ve ever seen!!! 👍😃🍻
First thanks for your knowledge much appreciated. My 5th wheel was working without a battery for 3 months and recently my fridge and lights went out and no fuse is blown out
Amazing video! Thank you for your detailed explanation. Really helps in visualizing everything. Even for me as an European, with some differences in voltages en distribution en connections. Thank you :)
Thank you for making these videos. I’m trying to better understand how power works in our 5th wheel because I’d like to (eventually) be able to install solar that will run the unit when shore power isn’t available. I’d also like to install an onboard generator. Starting with the basics, this is incredibly helpful. Thank you!!
Really like the video! New RV owner. I was wondering if I can shut the converter off so just the AC outlets are powered. I have a solar charger and dont want to suck juice for battery charging from my power station.
Yes, no problem with doing that. You can turn the circuit breaker off for the converter. Sometimes the converter will be in the same circuit as some outlets so that’s the only potential drawback.
Hi Travis. Thank you for this video. In my 1994 Odessa RV I only have 12 volt appliances when either the key is in the on position or we are hooked to shore power. Any idea why I don't have 12 volt service when the coach is off and not hooked up to shore power? I believe it should and it does not.
Hello, it sounds like we aren’t getting any power from the house battery, so I would verify the house battery is in good condition and charged, as well as making sure the connection between the house battery and power distribution panel is good. Look for any blown fuses or tripped 12v circuit breakers.
Great Video. I have T T with a 12 volt only refrigerator. I was hoping to place with a 120 volt one. any tips on wiring it. Do I go straight to breaker with a outlet or if I use an inverter will it run off 12 volt like the original?
I have a 4,000wt continuous solar generator. I want to put it under the bed in my rv and run wire to my control panel. I also want to put a 12vt lithium house battery under there. I plan on adding 12vt small fans to pull air under the bed and out the pass thru. What is my best way? I want my all in 1 solar generator to take the place of my exterior 30amp cord. Jonesy Nw Arizona
Great and simple to understand video. Your board layout makes it far more easily understood than watching someone quickly pointing to this and that part, (which was hard to see in dark corners) while talking. Thanks for the best tutorial yet!!
I have watched all your video's and really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I was having a hard time windering if there was a transfer switch for an inverter install if you had shore and generator in a transfer switch already. Basically a 3 way transfer switch. Would you go inverter, or solar generator for boondocking. I am leaning towards the Opus Mega 2 since it has a 30amp plug and I can just plug it into the toyhauler. It also has the ability to be mobile and I can recharge with portable solar.
I think either can work well depending on what you want. For me the best case is to have it all built in to the rv. Solar, inverter, batteries etc so it all just functions as if you were plugged in to the grid.
OUTSTANDING VIDEO! Thank you very much for making this video. I was struggling to understand the RV wiring "wizardry", but you cleared it up in a very professional manner.
Great videos so if i have the renogy 3000W inverter/charger i wouldnt go with this set up i would go with the set up on your other video? Or can you also run a inverter/charger like on this video?
Yes, in most cases I would run that inverter in a setup like the video with the victron inverter, where the inverter is in line before the power distribution panel, so all circuits get power from the inverter.
I blew up a 12v combo 120 Tv:(( Both power plugs were plugged in, and POW:(((Cooked the tv circuit board…Would be nice to separate each system in Rv, or the Tv .Im old and can’t figure what happened…I made it more complicated by connecting a lithium charger with Rv charger leads to 50ah battery. And then having to remember to kill main power sw on Rv frame outside each time Generator is on. Or I will have 24 volts to 12v items.Believe it or not, gas detector module by stove chirps for a second and a blue light flashes once to remind me to hit main switch, and not forget. Furnace motor goes on high(24v ) for a second simultaneously with detector. So separate systems though costly are in order.:))))lol
I am looking to do an electrical install on an enclosed trailer. My plan is 12v led lights and then 3 110 outlets. I only want to run a regular extension cord to the shore power and just have one battery for lighting only. How would I go about that?
Hi, the best way to accomplish that would be to use a power distribution panel like the Wfco 8735 ad, that handles both 12v and 120v power distribution. Use a 15 amp shore power inlet to supply the 120v side and the battery hookups to distribute 12v power to the lights. That unit includes a converter (battery charger) to charge the battery when plugged in.
You could do it that way depending on what you want from your system. This scenario is an example of a standard RV electrical system, which uses ac/dc. This setup keeps all the existing infrastructure, keeping it fairly simple and allowing it to work as designed.
Most of the time you will find the same 14ga wire that is used for lights, water pump etc. There is very little current to feed a thermostat though, so down to 18 or 20 gauge would work fine as well.
i thinkis its dumb to have the lights running off 12 volt. and dont forget you can have all the power you want but if you have a small drop cord feeding your rv you are power limited lol
Weren't the Lights representative of of appliances and the "small drop cord" for demonstration? Most RV lights are 12v LEDs and draw close to nothing so why not use them on 12v circuit. Besides when your not on "shore power" what will you do for light?😅
