RWG OSD #10 Making The Diagonal Push Rod Arm's! OverSize Delta 3D Printer Build. 

I would have to say you're an absolute legend for putting this video out. The rod ends on my stock rods for the anycubic kossel delta are wearing down and I was cracking my head searching for alternative rod ends and was sceptical about these traxxis one. I've got my carbon tubes and have just ordered these rod end bearings and looking forward to putting them together. Thanks a bunch!

11:36 The numbers are called "cavity numbers", and they correspond to the position of that part in the mold. The mold will have dozens of cavities into which the molten plastic will be injected, and numbering them this way means any problems, such as excess flashing, can be traced right back :)

hope our Enjoying theses videos! leave a comment for feed back :) Blessings! ~Russ

I was planing on doing magnetic joints, but the parts I got didn't work out. I am insisting on using machined parts for carriages and effector, so parts from the mini kossel I got from China did not have strong enough magnets. So I switched over to the traxaas route. I used a modified version of this: www.thingiverse.com/thing:291455 jig. I made 3d printed collars which go over the rod and over the traxaas ends. This way I got a really good fit on both sides. You're gonna laugh a bit, but my rods are 550mm. I am using an azteeg m5 mini smoothieware board with 400 step motors, I have it maxed out at 128 microsteps. I got it moving, and it's looking accurate so far. Will start assembling the extruder and hot end this weekend. My print volume will end up being 700mm height and about 470mm diameter, maybe a touch bigger -- my build plate is 500mm square, so I might be able to get close to full diameter. The thing is about 6 foot tall already. I'm deciding where to mount the filament roll (top makes sense, but that's 6 feet up, I'm not that tall)

Magnetic joints are the best ;)

How did you determine the length of the rods? I just made a mini delta and it's 280mm high(that's total height..aprox 230mm from the bed to the bottom of the endstops) I had to basically cut my rods to a length I pulled out of the air(125.5mm) because i couldn't find anything online that says "if the height is this and the width is that make your rods this..or even a percentage to go by...as a result the printer moves up and down fine at X0Y0 but if i try to move it from home to any position other than X0Y0 it doesn't move right..At X0Y0Z0 it will move in the right directions so I'm stumped..Any help would be great.

The carbon fiber is supposed to be coated after, buying carbon fiber without coating is standard

nice little lathe, where you got it from?

As a german it is always funny for me to hear how americans pronounce "Knipex" :D actually the "K" is not silent, so it is pronounced the way it is written, Knipex :) Still i find this very intresting, and i actually love these "freestyle" especially at the end :D

if you ever need stronger rod ends try the rpm brand and dont ever hammer the balls in you will break half of the plastic pieces

I'll be using fibreglass tent poles a lot stronger than carbon fiber rod.

Hey, not sure if you are aware, but they make a tool called a Tap Center that is designed for what you were doing with a pan head screw. Here is an amazon link, (you can get them just about anywhere) www.amazon.com/Brown-Sharpe-599-792-30-Adjustable-Tensioned/dp/B005317ZMC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458879688&sr=8-1&keywords=tap+center

Hi russ ain't just the Fone that's hot 😘😉👍

picklez and ketchup

The Traxxas ball joints are junk for this application.