THANK YOU! it worked like a charm! Instead of jumping on the charging stand, I jumped onto a charged battery and held the connection for 30 seconds. I then reassembled the dead battery and put it on the charging stand and the green light lit right up! Great video, very helpful - thanks.
I live in the Bahamas, my wife and i just came back from Florida, where we perches a weed wacker from home depot, now am about to cut the yard then this battery problem happens, thanks to your video, i was able to fix the battery, this video was straight to the point with minimum technical terminology and the use of simple tools, so while following your every move am saying (self do you know what you are doing ? nope, but am hoping to get lucky), And it work like a charm!
I used a 3/32” drill bit to knock down the security pin in the Torix screws. Works well. My battery has longer screws thru the bottom rather than on top of the battery. The larger screws require a #12 torix bit while the smaller one is #10. It’s difficult to detach the top from the board because the wires are so short. It’s a model P103. But you should be able to charge by applying the leads to the battery packs following the same orientation as the video.
I liked your instructional video and was preparing to begin the process when I decided to clean all of the contact points with a pencil eraser. Guess what! That did the trick.
I used an Android cell phone charger (the type which has a cord with micro or mini USB plug permanently attached to the charging block which plugs into the wall) . I cut the micro-usb plug off and stripped the wires (there are only 2, positive (red) and negative (white). In my case the batteries were all consistently low but none dead. I identified positive and negative ends of batteries and labeled them with marker. Then held wires on ends of each individual battery for 20 seconds each. That's all it took to raise the pack voltage enough for battery pack charger to charge normally. It's a good idea to check individual battery voltage after pack is on charger for a bit to see if any of the batteries are bad (voltage very low when others are high). If this is the case, bad battery cells need to be replaced and I wouldn't use it until it's repaired.
Nice. I'm at my college dorm without a power Supply besides in a lab, and was planning on opening up the charger to do this. Nice to see how simple it is
Needs the 3rd (and maybe 4th) prongs also hooked up, and I'm waiting on more leads, so I used another battery to jump. Worked good on two so far, I have them both charging.
The third terminal on your battery is a thermistor. The is a safety so that the charge knows the temperature of the battery to prevent overheating/fires. Great video, I have done this to 3 batteries that would not charge. I used a car battery charger set in low trickle charge touching the contacts for about 10 seconds to get the voltage above the 8.3 VDC threshold.
Hi Glenn I wanna make you a cuestion i hope you read It and i hope that you could help me, I got a batery ryobi,but when i put to charge It,the charger turns on the green led Immediately as if this One it's charged but the batery Is not full charged,and there's no a problem with the cells,cause i tested One by one and every cell have 3.55 volts,And the complet batery have 17.78 volts... My batery have charge indicator,but just turn on one led with 17 volts as if this One have a low charge,But my problem Is with the charger cause this one show as if the batery it's charged full And the problem is'nt in the charger cause It work with another batteries,i think that the problem could be with a electronic component Do you know Which can it be? If you answer me I would greatly appreciate it
@@ivonnevazquez4098 Check on the battery board if any liquid leaked onto the board creating a short. Happened with mine and cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and cotton swab.
Hi. It's me again. I opened it back up to show what I did and it stopped working. I repeated the same procedure and the red light is on. it doesn't react at all when I put the positive, or the negative or the other clip on. Zero. Wondering if there is another power source I can use. I have one of those portable car battery chargers but the clips are very large
Thanks. I found one of these batteries in the recycle and one of the cells had corrosion on it so wouldn’t balance. Probably could harvest the other working cell but then again direct tools has these on sale for $20 all the time so probably not worth the effort of soldering in a new cell.
Is there a way to reset the control board. I have a battery that would not charge but had 20 volts across the battery pack. I slowly discharged it by running jumpers from the batt. pack to my drill. Then I charged it up with your process and still get the defective light.
With the battery disassembled, and a voltmeter in hand, why didn’t you check the cells individually?? Before and after the charge cycle to know you have good cells...
The batteries are spot welded to their contacts and aren't easily separated. Also, experience/intuition...this battery pack was less than a year old and had very little use on it. If this trick didn't work I may have went further with troubleshooting.
SevenFortyOne ... it’s a series circuit made up of multiple cells, the welded connections do not matter, next time just try touching your probes to the bare ends of each cell, they are readily exposed, and “should” each show voltage of a 1.5-4 volts or a little more... that test will show a completely dead cell. Just because you have a reading above 14.5VDC for the whole series set of cells, it is not conclusive, it “could” be because one shorted cell, is combined with several overcharged cells, a dangerous condition. By checking each cell you know each is not dead and you can safely “bump” it back to where the charger recognizes it as “chargeable”.
hello.....great video. easy to understand.......just scared as hell of electricity lol like to know if you had any suggestion . have a 102 P Lithium. P118 charger. battery reads 14 volt , drill will not operate, charger starts off with POWER ON then GREEN LIGHT FLASHING (maybe about 5-6 times) then returns to RED LIGHT DIMMING off and on. Any ideas ? Thank you very much...again great video....!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (all RYOBI)
although this way does work it will only work for a very short time. the problem is that the individual batteries that make up the pack are getting so low that they aren't capable of being picked up by the sense pin. to fix this CORRECTLY you must purchase a PROFESSIONAL battery charger like the IMAX B6AC v2 and charge each individual cell to full. I would not advise anyone doing any method other than the correct way as it could cause you severe injury or cost you your life.
Mine has been working fine since doing this procedure. Having said that, I agree with your warning about safety and anyone attempting what I show here is doing so at their own risk.
I watched Your video, but My problem with Mine is not that. The batteries are fully charged, yet they don't work. I have tried to contact Royobi, but it's only in the States a every number I called keeps asking for a zip code, Well, I'm in Canada and Canada uses Postal Codes. Any suggestions?
I would look for a Canadian specific support number or email contact and go from there. If you can't find one, check with Home Depot and see if they have a support number they can give you.
Hi. Thank you for your video. Can you tell me what those little clamps are called, or provide a link to buy them? I could not find them at Home Depot. Thank you.
Great job! A question would be the same procedure to revive a dead Ryobi P107 Li-Ion battery and a Ryobi P118 charger, Since I have these accessories. regards
Hi i have got a lithion battery 18v now i have a duff battery that wont charge and when i have tested it its coming up at 13.75 and it wont charge so i am waiting on my croc clips coming to try what you did with yours and hope it works i also tried to get my friend to boost it but even he said it wasnt charging but i will try with the croc clips and see if that works
Why do you need to disassemble it though, couldn't you just go terminal to terminal with alligator clips to another jump source? Why take apart the casing?
Didnt work for me, I got the green light to flash using the leads but when I put it back together, the charger still flashes red only, it's like the sensor lead isn't being recognised by the charger and also the battery level indicator doesn't work, no lights show up.
I have the same battery can anyone tell me what the D1 Diode should be mine is broke in half or burned up but I can't see any visual burn marks, and need a replacement. it is located next to the negative side of the charging
Press the Battery Test button(front of the Ryobi battery), and measure voltage while holding the button. Newer Ryobi batteries P107, P108 etc will not provide full voltage to the contacts unless there is 5V applied to the centre terminal OR the battery test button is pressed..
@@SevenFortyOne The tool has so much more power with a 2, 4 or 6Ah battery. It's really night and day. The bottom tier batteries are good for flashlights or the radio.. I have over 20 2 Ah or more. (some over 6 years old......no problems)
This was a very good video. I love the trick about using the battery charger to charge the battery. So simple but something that most people would not think of trying.
Perfect, THANK YOU! Only difference for me was it was at 3.05 volts. So the first couple of times I hit it, the green light didn't start blinking at all. Then after the third shot, it measured above 5 volts and the green light came on after that.
thank you just got mine to charge again by following this thogh i just used a 12v battery charger for a few seconds to bring the voltage up around 11v then quickly plugged it into the ryobi charger
I just use a drill bit slightly smaller then the inner diameter of the torx screw head and drilled the nub down. After that the screws come out easy with a regular torx bit screwdriver.
Drilling is a stupid way to solve it, plus the hardened metal will shatter the point of your drill bits. Simply lever the Torx pin sideways and SNAP IT OFF.
The chargers are the issue my bcl14181h died as for the batteries Ryobi use heat/overload protection in the batteries not the tools like Makita or Milwaukee they have no battery protection built in there's is in the tools itself this is why I chose Ryobi because there batteries and tools are very good it's the fast chargers that let them down
Good call man, I didn’t think about the low voltage safety cut out. Makes sense though , as all lithium powered tools include this feature now. So the charger would be no different. Thanks brother!
outstanding work sir. I have several of these batteries sitting in my recycle bin I will now try this on. Kicking myself that I didn't think of trying something like this already..
You don't need a volt meter or a standalone power supply, and you don't need to know the voltage of the various cells before you jumper. You don't need any special tips on the ends of the I just pulled the top of the case (just the top) on my dead battery. TORAX security size 10 bits. I only had a standard TORAX 10 bit. I was able to get four of the five screws with a standard TORAX 10 bit despite the tittie in the middle. One I had to cut out with dremel tool using a dental bit. I used two random strands of wire I found under the sink to jumper pos/pos neg/neg to a good battery for 30 seconds. Pulling the top of the case allows you to bypass the circuit board, and send juice straight to the cells. After I juiced the cells for 30 seconds with the wires-I-found-under-the-sink jumper, I put the top of the case back on the bad battery, and threw it on the charger. Now the bad battery is accepting a charge. I'll put some of the TORAX screws back in if it goes to steady green on the charge indicator.
You idiot - there is no such thing as a _"TORAX"_ . To remove the security pin in TORX bolts, use a hardened screw like a self-drilling plaster or chipboard screw as a lever... insert to one side of the pin, and lever sideways to snap it off.
Because the battery is so low the charger won't operate as a safety measure. You have to jump start the battery to get the voltage up high enough for the charger to turn on and actually charge the battery.
