Ryobi riding mower repair 

I'm about to finish the 3rd season on mine (~90hrs run time). I have 30,000sf of hilly terrain. I usually break it up into 2 cuts just because my back starts hurting, even with upgraded seat springs. Battery life is still like new and I've had no other issues to speak of.

Upgraded seat springs?

Mine goes for about 10 minutes and then it still spins (blades) but I have to keep going t From neutral to forward. It goes and then stops. I am having something go wrong with electrical

The trick with lead acid batteries is to NEVER let them go below 50% state of charge or sulfation happens which will degrade the batteries. Lead acid batteries do not die typically, they are always "killed" by folks who don't realize how to treat them properly. It's definitely a science and needs to be studied to keep these batteries from degrading. If they do die on you just replace them with LiFePo4 batteries and you'll never have to worry about running them down as they can go down to 0% (preferably 5%) state of charge without damaging the cells.

I think with the release of the new 80v’s these are on clearance. Give it a shot it’s only electrics

It’s not supposed to face up, it’s proper down with. Spacer

I actually said that in the video that it did not work facing up

So the other (working) blade which had it facing up was wrong? How was it working in that case?

@@robertjoseph1592 one was up and one was down

​@@livefreeandtoolon I think the top spacer part was supposed to be just like the other side, the part that wasn't right was the long black plastic part with the locating tabs that looked like it was supposed to have a protruding bit in the center, that center bit was missing, and that is what should have been filled in or replaced to make this work the correct way. I agree that this was made to work in the wrong way. See the parts breakdown, page 9, key 20, part 996261001. They both are supposed to assemble the same way: images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/a4/a4fb1e99-837f-49aa-94c6-c4a236a51700.pdf

Motor control unit! It is expensive part 385$ 😢. I replaced it myself. I called a dozen mechanics they were brats and super negative about electric mowers. I watched you tube videos on how to remove batteries. As soon as you remove those batteries you have complete access to the entire wiring harness! The controller is plug and play color coded. You remove the left side fairing to access bolts to disconnect the motor Call ryobi tech line! My machine runs better now than when I bought it. So that controller may have been bad all along. If your battery are fully charged but your machine will not move or moves then quits without grinding the tech told me it was the motor controller. My blades would spin like champs because they have a seperate controller! If two girls can do this so can you!🎉🎉🎉.

@@thebigone52able mines doing this now. Won’t spin blades too. Will shut off. 2 years on good charge ..ryobi 30 inch rider..drives 3 feet and stops.

Lubricate the front axle where it rubs against the axle channel plate, and be sure to get behind the rubber bumpers. I had this issue develop 4 weeks after buying it new and I regularly have to lubricate it to keep the squeak away, but that's the source of the problem and the temporary solution. It's a very common problem, probably affecting every single one of these mowers. Many if not most of the videos I've seen of this mower in action had the squeak. Apart from little annoyances like this, it's a great mower and I have no regrets after 5 years. Way more practical for me and easier/cheaper to maintain than the gas John Deere I had before.

There are not many repair shops. There are four heavy batteries, and I've had some issues however, I have an acre they charge $100 so I saved $400 per month. May through October say 3k per year so one year you break even everything after year one is gravy.