I need to replace two locks. I was given two GSA classified document safes. One had 6 holes drilled and the entire lock was removed. The door opens and closes with a turn of the handle. The other, had the dial removed and one hole drilled. A safe guy showed me how/ where to drill, to drive the deadbolt out. I got through the 3/8” door plate but could not drill the inner box around the lock. I was able to blow through that with my plasma torch. All holes will filled with welding. The safe I had to drill and torch, had what was left of a Mosler PRK-302? I have photos. What I need to know is the mounting hole dimensions of a S&G 6730. I’m having trouble finding that info by internet search. There are 4 threaded holes on the inside of the box holding the lock that were used to mount the Mosler. I would be a big help to find a lock that uses the same hole spacing dimensions! If you have that info or can direct me I would appreciate it tremendously. I can share photos of both doors if you need.
The mounting holes for safe locks are standard. You should be able to use the same footprint. I do recommend using a certified safe tech to install locks you will depend on.
Hi there- question- have you worked with any locks that have a relocker that has a pin on the end that inserts into the side of the bolt instead sitting in a groove on the side of the bolt like in this video? Long story less long, I have a family member's old Remington Rand file cabinet/ safe with an S & G group 1 lock with an 'arrow knob' in the center of the dial. It was left unlocked [yay!] so I could cheat and take the back off the lock. I figured out the combination since I can see the wheels [genius that I am....] but I'm not sure what the trick is to the relocker. It wants to sit with the pin in the bolt- even when the back is on and putting pressure on the opposite end of the relocker. I'm not sure if it's missing a piece or what. Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Nice video man! Just subscribed. Doesnt the dial have a bit too much play in it? It seems a bit wobbly but it might just seem like that. A tip for more precise reading: tape a piece of paper with a corner pointing down where you read the numbers. Its a bit tighter than the standard pointer and really makes things easier on the eyes.
The mount is not perfect, but it is pretty straight forward for manipulation. I noticed that the mounts with the metal inserts seem to hold the lock more secure.
Nice video i have a question is it possible to get a copy or photo of your graphing sheet ..i have just started learning to manupilate ..and your sheet was so informative
@@grainorice8293 Ok thank you for the answer i think i use your video to make a sheet .. another question i did get a sparrow vault is this Good to start with...i did see your video about change to 7641
@@kentlundberg I like the idea of the vault. You will be able to lern manipulation with it. I would recommend a moounted cutaway lock from MBA as your next. You will feel a big differance.
This one takes me a little under two hours. I'm not as fast as others and I don't practice consistently. I know of some that can manipulate these locks in 10 min.
