Thanks this helped me tremendously. So glad I did not just start removing the whole carb from my bike as that would have been an unneeded headache. I was a little nervous about tearing into mine, but after watching your video, was fully confident I could do this. Got my bike back up and running great within the hour! Great video, very informative. Turned what for me was a daunting task into a "piece of cake." Thanks Again!!!
Absolute one of the best instructional videos I've seen. My recent American Ironhorse Legend purchase (which had sat for numerous months) had sediment when I drained the fuel filter and carb. I replaced the fuel filter but wanted to explore the S&S Carb so this video was super helpful for me to take the next steps of basic cleaning. I'm not a mechanic but I know just enough to get me in trouble 🤣🤣). The S&S 111 engine and carb is new to me so SUPER THXXXX... A++++++++++++ 👍👍💪💪
Thanks for sharing, I took the entire carb off my wife's bike yesterday and put it back together with zero experience and it's running like new, well, it runs like an 81 shovel head!
great video, may I suggest when blowing the main & idle jets w/ carb spray, you plug up one end of the jet w/ a finger, so the spray will now go through and wash out those tiny venturi holes on the sides ;) PS: Ohhh, and the intermediate jet as well ;)
Great Video. Lots of good detail and the fast forward thru the less technical area was appreciated. Helped me out of an accelerator pump assembly that the S&S drawing was not clear on.
Outstanding video. Got my wife's 2005 Fat Boy running like new again, in less than an hour. Accelerator pump pushrod was gummed up and stuck. Only minor difference in my setup is that there is a breather tube feeding into the filter backing. Otherwise this was perfect. Thanks for the instruction.
Sorry to be off topic but does anybody know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid lost the password. I love any assistance you can give me.
@Dominick Levi i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm in the hacking process atm. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Thank you for the video, easy to follow, I parked it cause I work a ton of hours and don't have much time to ride and now its running rough and ran perfectly when I parked it.
Thanks!!! Great video! Got my old Sportster running good as new! I hasn't been running in a couple years and all it needed was a new battery and your excellent advice!
Thank you thank you Thank you very much for this video that was made years ago. I think I am mechanical and I have never had the chance to rebuild a carb but your instruction and the video were perfect. My 1996 HD Dyna Wide Glide has never run better with my S&S carb. Thanks you again. You should show others how to make a how to video. Well Done my friend.
Thank you for a well explained video. I just picked up my dad's old bike,and it needs going over. I know that carb is gummed up this video will help out tremendously, and hopefully save me money.
Hey, thanks for sharing. Great step by step instructions with tips and precautions. One thing I noticed, the price on that parts cleaner in a can has doubled since the video was made.
Thanks!!!!!!! - Unbelievably helpful video. This really helped me get a 1988 softail with a race built 98 inch motor running today that hadn't ran in over 17 years. Unfortunately, I went and lost the small o ring you mention to be careful with (Ejector Nozzle O-ring) in the cleaning process. lol. It is S&S part #50-8096 - A local shop had one -its is a silicone "006" O-ring with dimensions .125" I.D. x .250" O.D. ( just in case anyone else has this problem and doesn't want to wait for S&S replacements-they want to sell you 10 at a time as well!). Figured I'd throw new O-rings in the accelerator pump as well- they are a silicone "009" O-ring with dimensions 2.187" I.D. x 3.437" O.D. This video is the epitome of why I love youtube-keep up the great work!
awesome vid. I suggest you threadlock the air cleaner cover as well- those phillips head screws can come right out; been there - done that :( Again- great job on the vid - thank you for posting it.
Great video, thank you. Bike I bought has been garaged for ten years. It runs good, but im getting no noticeable adjustment out of the accelerator pump, now I know where to begin.
ABSOLUTE AMAZEBALLS!! Dude with the Latino accent! You are the MAN! Thank you SO much for this video. I've got exactly the same carburator on my old HD Big Twin and I thought I had run all the gas out of it before I stored it. NOT! I didn't get it all. But now, I've got it all solved, AGAIN thanks to YOU!
I would NEVER rinse my parts in water as you say at 8:24 Other than that bad advice, this was an excellent well paced video. Thanks and thumbs up to you!
Excellent video for anyone with an S&S Super. Only thing I would add is to be very very careful that you don’t drop the bowl screws because they can be difficult to find if you do lol.
Thanks man, I will have to do this the next days, bike's been sitting the whole winter, I wanted to fire it up today and fuel was going through the overflow, directly on the floor! 😅🙈
HELLO THANKS FOR THE very NICE VIDEO MY Friend!!!! Just had to do my 69 flh been sitting with shit gas for 8 years only put 25 miles on it all that time and Wow just Full of crud!!! I did it off the bike but Your way is much quicker. Many Thanks!!!!!...bob
You have only 2 jets. Main and idle jet. As long as your bike was running correctly and the reason for taking it apart is that it was sitting and now it's running bad you don't need to mess with the Jets you just need to go through the cleaning procedure as you see in the video if you need to get the bike running richer or leaner or if you have any kind of performance issues that's another subject
I have a 2008 Big Dog Mastiff S and S 117 with the Super G carb. The bike has sat the whole winter and when it was time to start riding I started it up and rode it about 20 miles. Came home and parked it. Walked back up to it about an hour later and I had gas dripping from my overflow tube. I watched your video and put everything back together and started the bike up and it ran fine, But the same shit.... When I am running at idle I have now overflow, but when I shut off the engine it starts dripping out of that tube...... My float was actuating just fine and I basically set it up just like you did in your video, but still leaking gas out my over flow tube with the valve from the tank to the carb on..... Any advice you could give me would be greatly appreciated.
Hello, I just did this process yesterday and when I started my motorcycle there was a leak coming out of the overflow house at the bottom. What did I do wrong? Thanks for the video very easy to follow
Awesome video man! Just did it and everything came out super clean! Problem is now I have an overflow problem coming out from the overflow line. I just ordered a rebuild kit since the o rings and the gasket seemed a little brittle from sitting for 13 years but damn great instructional video!
The reason why it's flooding is most likely or float needle ... also the float seat where's the needle sits might be dirty and will need to be cleaned once you get the rebuild kit you should be good to go... Thank you for your interest and please subscribe it will help me out 😊
looks like a little clean up to get ya back on the road and thats ok,, if your going thatfar at the house you should just take it apart soak it, strip it, , blow everything out with compressed air, new soft kit and ..always set the float level per,specs
good video ...maybe you could have started up the bike after carb clean and show the adjustments... it would be interesting as this is an instructional video....
Thank you for the video. Got me up and running again quickly and without issue. Side note: I got the NAPA version of the carb cleaner gallon. It is NOT safe for rubber. Just a heads up if anyone else gets that brand.
One question. So if bike was running fine but just needed cleaning from sitting, I shouldn’t need to adjust the gas or air or accelerater right? Thanks for any reply
You should be fine without messing with the adjustments...but it's very easy to adjust...I will make one video on it soon...thanks for your interest and please subscribe to help me out 👍
Great video, thank you. btw the float height should be 1/8" to 3/16" below the gasket surface. See page 14 of the following .pdf it explains the procedure and shows a picture of how to measure it. www.sscycle.com/docs/default-source/instruction-sheets/510-0251_super_eg_series_shorty_carbs.pdf?sfvrsn=2 Also, he didn't mention it but make sure you install the gasket between the backplate and the carburetor. The rebuild kit comes with one and it's obvious where it goes. Thanks again for an excellent tutorial - looking forward to seeing more of your videos!
Great video... I would like to point out though that what you called the "choke" is not the choke. Its a "Fuel Enhancer" and if you leave it on after starting your bike too long you will foul plugs. Its not a choke. Just wanted to share that. Thanks for the video tho.
We don't know your name. Would you like to tell us just MIKE, PETER, JOHN, or your complete name, up to you. Anyway yours vids are awesome. Thanks, thanks a lot Brother !!!!!!!!!!
Thanks, just watched this step by step and did my own. My worry is the kit i had didnt have a new float. How do you adjust the float as you state in the video
There is no reason to replace the actual float....only the float needle. If you go back to the video you will see the portion where I am talking about the float level. Just get it to the same distance as you see there from the top edge of the float bowl by carefully bending the metal tong on the float. 99% of the time its right on the money...If the bike is running good now, leave it alone...thanks for watching and for the interest!!!
Not greatest at carbs. So my super E shorty the needle tip seemed clogged. When I pull the throttle I noticed the spray of gas coming out the needle seemed very weak. I managed to get a small bent brush. Now it seems to spray better. Could that have also caused my bike to idle and backfire? It’s a 90 sportster 883 and put on 8.8 plug wires but it backfires while idling. I haven’t tried turning it back on because it’s late and don’t want to piss the neighborhood off haha. Could a clogged needle cause bad idle or is this separate from throttle?
Yo dude whts up i bought my buddys dads bike its a harley fxsts softail a 1995, the guy kinda tricked it out with special accessory parts like ghis s&s shorty carberater im not sure if its a d,e,b,f lol anyways the over flow hose line from the carb wont stop leaking until i shut it down with the pit valve on off its drivin me crazy im hoping its an easy fix my cash is real tight right now....?if u have sny tips id be mighty gratfull later on my man
Your float needle is stuck because the motorcycle was sitting and it's gummed up from the old gas. Follow my video and you will fix your problem easily. I would also recommend replacing the fuel line... you can buy that in auto parts store and install inline fuel filter between the gas tank and the carburetor...also inspect the gas tank inside to make sure it's clean. Because if the gas tank is nasty it will screw up the carburetor again. Thank you for your interest and please subscribe to help me out 😊
@@DoityourselfMotorcyclerepairs thnx guy appreciate it the tip....yea its been sitting in this oldtimers garage since 1995 good lookin out tho....rite on..thnx
i removed the carb from my bike because it wasnt starting. my pushrod doesnt go up and down when i open the throttle like yours. is that because the carb is off the bike or that shouldnt matter? If not what should i do next?
If the pushrod for the ACC pump does not move you have most likely bad membrane inside or something else in there that should be pretty obvious...just take it apart the same way you see in this video and you will find it...watch out for the two small balls in there and the little spring...don't loose it... thanks for your interest and please subscribe to help me out
The way you set the carburetor is as follows....Start the bike and get it to idle without the choke...turn the screw all the way on the right (opposite side from the Throttle cables) all the way clockwise. Then start turning the brass middle screw ( air /gas mixture) both ways to find the smoothest and fastest sounding idle...then lower the idle some ( with the Left screw) to narrow the range when the engine sounds the fastest. When you get there only thing left is to turn the right side screw back counter clockwise to adjust the ACC. pump. It is usually about 2.5 turns but the idea is the smallest amount of turns while the bike does not have a flat spot while rapidly twisting the throttle to accelerate. Hope this was helpful and please subscribe to help me out...thanks brother
It should be all the way down for sure...if you need to have it up a little that means something is way off. Did you just got the bike or was it sitting and prior to that was running good?? Give me little background info on the motorcycle
@@DoityourselfMotorcyclerepairs Hey I just got it last weekend,....I am following youre guide to clean....grabbed a master rebuild kit just in case...I can see the carb has build up on the outside,...2006 saxon crown sns 111....Im sure its been sitting for a year or longer....fires rite up and runs, but u cant run it with the lever down it dies, has to be a little up
I have a 2000 Indian Chief with the S & S motor and the same carb. It has been sitting for a long time and I got it going again. I was test driving it and the bike ran perfect for about 5 miles on the highway and then started sputtering on and off. Then I turned off on another road and gave it gas to accelerate and it died on me. I let it sit for a few minutes and it started and made it home. I then cleaned the carb for a second time. Adjusted the float, fuel/air screw and the accelerator pump screw to the recommended settings. I'd already drained the tank and added fresh fuel. I changed the fuel filter, ensured gas was freely pouring from petcock. Replaced the spark plugs. Test drove again and when I tweak the throttle it still sputters like it is starving for fuel. I'm afraid if I accelerate too hard it will die and leave me stranded again. Do you have any ideas?
Hi, I am experiencing the same situation on my 98 Heritage. I've had the bike and carb for over 20 years and rebuild it once with no issues. Recently, I went through the carb twice now and i'm experiencing the exact issue you are of starving for fuel. The choke in the past worked great in warming the bike up. Now if I use it, it will flood the bike out. Did you ever correct your issue with starving for fuel? Thanks.
Hey, been going through the same issues myself. Bike crapping out when going about 20 mph and chocking for fuel or spark. I am a back yard mechanic trying to figure this issue out. I have diagnosed the carb twice, clean the petcock, check ohms for the coil, pinched wires all good so far. I am down to the ignition switch. Did a continuity test on the three contact pins coming from the ignition and all tested good. However, when I perform a 12V test on the 3 pins while connected to the ignition wiring harness, I got a 12V positive reading from the switch in the accessory position when switched on, but get no 12V reading when switched to ignition/run position. I get a Positive 12V reading from the wiring harness disconnected from the back of ignition switch 3 pin connectors to the battery, but nothing when I turn the ignition switch on/run when plugged into the wiring harness together. You can perform this 12V test with a small gap between the pin connectors and wiring connector, or from in back of the wiring connectors while plugged in all the way to the switch pin connectors. Talked to a few people and they mentioned that the switch could test good for ohm continuity, but fail when under 12V load. My 98' Heritage would start crapping out at 20 mph on the road. I feeling like a fucking surgeon but don't want to take it to the stealership for repairs. Hope this helps. The Breeze.................
Sure you can pull the carb but for a quick clean up you shouldn't have to. This nasty ethanol gas leaves a mess in the lower half of the carb if it sets for just a short amount of time and a bowl and jet cleaning usually gets you up and running again. If you want to pull the throttle cables, mounting bolts to give the carb a total cleaning/rebuild go right ahead, for me it's time wasted. I have 3 old Harleys with S&S's and every 3 yrs I have to clean them just like in the video. If I let that piss ethanol gas set in one over the winter then it's practically mandatory to have to clean it out to get it to run come spring time.