@Robot Cantina, if you want to sell that car with the diesel engine in it, I will buy it as is, I work at Mcdonalds, so fuel will be free or at least super cheap.
@@SHSPVR nonsense. "roaling coal" is just far too much fuel for the available air. Crank the fuel up and it will black smoke. It's not going to make it faster unless it was getting too little fuel for the available air, being that EGT were up in the danger zone that is not the case.
The new transfer pump provides significantly better net positive suction head for the injection pump, which helps injector flow/atomization/spray pattern. This is the most likely cause of your performance gains.
Great Video... I think the new cold intake and the fuel adjustment was responsable for most of the gains also I think the spoiler in the front should help on the drag... cant wait to see the turbo gains...you are awesome
@@schrodingersmechanic7622 They only need flow, not pressure. I know the 2 are linked, but the only job of the supply is to ensure that when the pump chambers are filling, they don't suck. There is little to no back pressure in the injector pump, so a transfer pump dosent have to work that hard. One thing that's bothering me is he stated that there was no fuel return line. Never heard of a diesel built like that. Thinking about the pressures some more, the return line gets a feed from the injector pump. That means that the reservoir in the injector pump is nearly ambient.
On paper, this project sounds like watching grass grow would be better time spent. But having robot cantina edit it in a video, it's my favorite RU-vid series.
I’d be careful running the turbo sideways like that. The oil needs to be able to drain or it’ll push right past the seal and you’ll have a runaway. Another option is a small separate oil system for the turbo. It doesn’t need much. I’ve even seen junk builds with grease crammed into the oil cavity
even with a separate oiling system, if it starts pushing oil past the seals you wind up in the same situation of having a runaway. You really just have to have the turbo clocked properly to prevent problems like that.
Good eye, I didn't catch that. Yep ideally turbo feed and drain need to be straight up and down. Along with as little bending as possible for the gravity drain.
I don't remember how I found your channel but I am glad I did. You have given me hours of enjoyment with your projects. Thanks for sharing your work with us. Phil
@@robotcantina8957 always great experiments and tinkering! looks too late to do one hyper-miler run before going turbo. long no speed limit posted 2 lane highways are 45 mph and usually fine for 49-50 mph anyway. clean+wax the heck out of it, maybe plus 2-3 psi to tires. the 59 mpg is nice+nice, but it might give +75 mpg babying+nursing it on a long haul without any stops. no worries, efficiency goes up with a turbo anyway!
I was curious about predator powered vehicles and found the Honda insight project. I was searching for a predator powered miata but that came up instead
I love it. It needs a tractor flap, and if you're bored, a hood exit exhaust. Although the hood exit might attract the rozzers so maybe not. All those stickers have turned it into a real cop magnet. It would have been nice to see the fuel pressure before the high pressure pump both with the old tick tick pump and the new one. But oh well, love your build!
Don't worry about the criticism from the audience! You do you. That's what makes this channel fun! But, you should totally list what you had to eat for the day along with the outside air temp and conditions. 🙂
Awesome, I really enjoy this series! A couple suggestions: Run a diesel fuel additive to increase cetane and lubricity, you might squeeze out a little more power from the improved combustion. Also add some motorkote hyperlube to the oil, to reduce friction in the drivetrain and squeeze out some more power robbed by friction. Projectfarm did an excellent video test on motorkote highlighting it's friction reducing properties. Lastly, put a clear cover over the headlight wells, I would imagine you could reduce some drag that way. Keep up the good work
He can probably get away with it in Kanas, but there is a reason the US never did the clear cover bit over headlights. DOT didn't make it legal. Might not get busted for it, I know it's a go to in my rural area for bored cops, if you don't have clear, amber, red exactly as it is expected where it is expected you get a fine.
I used to have a SC2 that I would drive 40-50 miles per day. I added clear covers over the head lights taped and screwed to the bumper so there was a smooth path between the bumper and front edge of the hood and went from 35 mpg highway to 38 with no fog or condensation issues. I later added a front air dam similar to the one on your car with 4 1-1/2" holes for radiator airflow and picked up another 2 mpg with no cooling issues. Edit: With the turbo mounted like that it's going to blow oil out the exhaust because of oil pooling in the center section from the drain being so far off of vertical. Pretty much every turbo manufacturer recommends that the drain is a max of 15 degrees from vertical in either direction
The best aerodynamic improvements that I have ever seen were 10% for a boat tail. 5.26% for headlight covers and 8.57% for a grill block sound excessive.
@@drippingwax I got 4.25% improvement at 55mph for partial grille block, folding the mirrors back, airdam and partial undertray (just under the engine bay) on my 05 Accord. Got that number with pretty thorough testing too; light winds, fairly level straight road, threw out runs where I got passed by a car (to avoid drafting), left the car running the whole time so the cruise control would be at the exact same setting, accelerated to speed well before the test area to let the cruise control level out speed, then did A-B-A-B testing with 4, 8, 8, and 4 runs respectively (alternating between east- and west-running, to hopefully cancel out light wind and small elevation change in the road). ScanGaugeII for mpg measurements. Averages were: 4 runs without, 43.15mpg 8 runs with mods, 45.2mpg 8 runs without mods, 43.43mpg 4 runs with mods, 45.15 Data below. Tests took place over around 2.25 hours with slowly increasing temperature, from about 51f to 57f. S for stock, M for mods. S E 41.1 S W 45.4 S E 41 S W 45.1 M E 42.5 M W 46.1 M E 43.4 M W 47.7 M E 43.6 M W 47.1 M E 44.6 M W 46.6 S E 40.8 S W 45.1 S E 41.7 S W 45.6 S E 41.7 S W 46.1 S E 41 S W 45.4 M E 44.1 M W 45.8 M E 45 M W 45.7
@@drippingwax All I know is that the mpg numbers are as accurate as I could measure using miles driven on the odometer and amount of fuel required (from the same station and pump nozzles every time) to fill the tank until the pump handle clicked after 95% highway driving.
@@Fred_the_1996 Not if the top and bottom have the same angle. The problem is that people often feel the need to have a steeper angle on the bottom to clear driveways and such, which would increase lift.
First: you made me laughing a lot! Second: thanks for the conversions from imperial/Fahrenheit to metric/Celsius. That makes understanding much easier and faster. Cheers from overseas 🇺🇸🤗🇩🇪
Congratulations on the new records! For a moment I thought I had slept over half of the week 🙂 With the turbo installed, it looks better already - curious to see its performance 🙂
This is almost exactly the same as my high speed runs on my 2004 Motorhispania RX50 which is a 9/10 scale crotch rocket with a liquid cooled 50cc engine and 6 gears. People always think it's a full size crotch rocket, but it's narrower and light at 235 pounds. The fastest I've gotten it to was 72mph... once, going downhill, with the wind at my back. It's "fast" up to about the top of 3rd gear which is about 40mph, by real bike standards it's not-but it's so fun to bang through all the gears all the time, and redline that screamer at 12k revs
@@robotcantina8957 It is, I have it legally registered as a moped... no tricks, just did a vin search and the MI secretary of state gave me a 3yr moped tag, I'm on my 3rd one as I've had it for many years. Only bike I like more is my 1973 Suzuki TS185 which I'm making into an adventure bike.
Love this series! Please consider a little bit of blue Loctite on the 2 Allen screws located in the turbo inlet adapter. Bolts in danger of getting ingested always seem to be the ones working themselves loose😎
My 80's IDI turbo VW diesel regularly sees 1250-1300 F egt's, and has over 350K miles on it and still makes spec compression. My common rail cummins also will pull a hill with a load sitting at 1100 for miles and loves it. Just saying she probably wouldn't mind running more fuel/temp. Love the channel!
Thanks Jimbo! I've been waiting for some turbo stuff for a good while and I'm excited to see what flabbergasting finagling it takes to make it work. This is among the best series in the automotive space right now, thanks for all the work you put in.
Teamwork is the ability to work together toward a common vision. The ability to direct individual accomplishments toward organizational objectives. It is the fuel that allows common people to attain uncommon results. ~ Andrew Carnegie, business magnate and philanthropist
I love this channel and I absolutely love this project I'm in the process of building a diesel motorcycle myself but I have to say it just totally breaks my heart to hear that you're going to just take this thing and send it to the crusher after you get done making all the videos you can on it, you have built a vehicle that is very fuel-efficient with an extremely durable engine in you could run it on used cleaned cooking oil why not keep the vehicle around so people can see the possibilities, there are so many people in the world that would love to have a daily driver such as this , please don't destroy it.
The Saturn we are using for the experiments has significant collision damage under the skin plus a lot of other problems . We plan on removing the diesel engine and all the custom parts before the car is scrapped. There wont be much left of the car when we are done with this project.
Your turbo will blow oil past the turbine seal mounted like that. It needs to be mounted horizontally with the drain pointing down. You can get away with a few degrees but straight down illiminates oil pooling against the turbine seal which is a ring with the open end pointing to the 12oclock position and the drain side at 6 o'clock.
I seriously enjoy that you do read the comments and make adjustments. Though as an expert on stickers, you are using low horsepower stickers, those gains are minimal of up to 1hp+ per sticker. It is why you did see improvements but not the high gains you expected of 140hp+. For more serious gains I recommend using stickers with sparkles and holographic, unicorns work well along with Hello Kitty and the like. They average about 5hp+ per sticker. Try and avoid the anime girl stickers though, unless you want specifically torque gains. Glad I could be of help and I love the series.
I'll go with the fuel rack adjustment as making the biggest difference but kind of figured the improved transfer pump was needed to keep up with it. Great job and very entertaining. No complaints here. Well, except my OCD auto tech by trade self would suggest centering the steering wheel so I don't get a headache watching. 🤣 I'm sorry. Thanks for sharing your awesome creativity sir!
Really enjoying this series and the channel. I am a subscriber now. Also really like the way you address all the opinions in the comments, good for a laugh! Everyone is a pro in the RU-vid comments section.
FWIW, as a former diesel mechanic… I think the majority of your power gains were from the lift pump change. These mechanical injection pumps have a range of positive pressure they like to see on their inlet to perform best. (Old Cummins with Bosch P7100 as an example might be 20-25psi). The engine will idle and perform very well even near zero psi, BUT you will notice higher rpm power is down. BTW, really liking the videos 👍
You made me laugh with the stickers. Rumor is that the range between .5 to 1hp. Pull the factory muffler and put on a tractor muffler. I'm thinking the oe one may be too restricted. A turbo will definitely help out
Interesting mileage. I just took my 2015 Jetta TDi on a 190 mile round trip from Wisconsin down to Chicago. I filled before and after I got back and was on the interstate 95% of the trip. I kept to ~70mph and got a hand calculated 55.6 for the trip. Not too shabby for a 3200lb sedan in the winter. Oh, and I have AC 😉
After running a model of your car through AirShaper and hours of simulation in the Camshaft software we have determined the biggest contributor to todays result where the stickers. We have also determined that you have missed in a great power increase opportunity by not painting the lines. Not even in the best possible scenario this loss could be compensated by installing a turbo. Now Vin Diesel is sad... you se what you did... we hope you are proud.
Very enjoyable series! I’ve always wanted to do this. Love the fab work, the explanations, and the overall video product - well done… you made me care about and root for a Saturn! Cant wait for the turbo! PS: It’s definitely the stickers. 😂
its a great candidate for it! the 1 liter 5spd are gutless anyway but the mpg potential.. if you watch some Robert Murray Smith he's made good bio-diesel.
Swapping that air filter for the bigger factory one made a world of a difference. Evidently, the engine was being choked by the smaller one. Can't wait to see how it does with the turbo. Nice work, my friend!! 👌
@@TravisTerrell only if the original intent of longevity and reliability can be maintained. But welcome to our throw away society where planned obsolescence is in perpetual feedback with consumption.
I reckon if he did the fuel economy test at 30mph it would blow a bigger engine out of the water. My 1L 3 cylinder petrol with 68hp can get 83mpg (2.8L/100km) at 30mph. At 50mph it gets 58mpg (4L/100km).
Can’t wait to see that turbo. Great channel. One of my favourites bar you can beat video games. Keep up the great content. This channel’s gonna blow up.
OOOHHH! That's meee! Hahaha (on the comment list at the beginning of the video)... Firstly, my 'Wheel bearing' comment, yeah, unless f*cked, wouldn't affect rolling resistance at all really, it's just i wasn't sure it was wheel bearing or something else due to this mad configuration you had made. 🤔😉. Also, wanna say... love the 'Rozzers' part... Us Brits, we have some nicknames eh? lol. 😉 I'm glad you've some major performance improvement have been had with just the pump and air intake mods👍 😎🇬🇧
Good stuff! I still think it's worth trying water methanol spray injection (winter washer fluid works). That should keep the engine cooler and steam clean inside.
I haven't commented until now, but only because I just want to see where you go with this thing. I applaud your tenacity, and it's great entertainment! So, now time for my .02. First the blocking of the air. That is not your problem with temperature regulation. The engine thermostat controls engine operating temperature. (By the way, you didn't mention engine temp in this video.) If it's too low, then you need a higher temp thermostat. As to aerodynamic effect, who knows? Next, your greatest HP/torque gain was getting cold air to the engine. It's the expansion of air that generates power. Cold air is more dense. More dense is more air to expand in the combustion process. More expansion = more power. Smoke is unburned fuel, which means you did not have enough air in the cylinder. The best location to pull the highest pressure outside air is at the cowl, where the cabin air inlet is, hence the reason for cowl induction hoods. Hot air from under the hood is already partially expanded, which = less air density, which = less power. As to your transfer, or lift pump, the flow test meant nothing. What matters is the amount of pressure at the injection pump inlet. Pressure is resistance to flow. The volume then only needs to match the volume required to run the engine at full fuel at maximum governed RPM. If your pressure drops below spec, THEN the flow is inadequate. It probably helped eliminating that pulse, as the injection pump inlet pressure would have been constantly changing with pressure spikes and near zero pressure on the rebounds. "Less heat means less fuel". Well, no... The amount of fuel determines the amount of heat. The amount of heat energy released from the fuel determines the amount of expansion. More air in the cylinder expanding to the same degree as less air in a cylinder for a given amount of fuel will produce more cylinder pressure. More pressure is more power! More air! More air! More air! While you're at it, remove any exhaust restriction you can. Air in, air out. More air! LOL For your aerodynamics, buff that thing out, then give it a good waxing, waxing the windows too! It really does make a difference! If you really want to go farther, find the narrowest tires you can get for it and run them at the max rated pressure. Once you've achieved governed RPM in 5th gear, that's your top speed. After that' it's all about acceleration! Well, ok, mileage too, but acceleration first!
I always enjoy your videos. There are always fun and not to be taken too seriously, apart from all the work you put in to do modifications and film and produce them. I hope you keep on doing what you're doing, bringing fun to a Sunday morning (lol even though it's Monday)
Uh, Diesel Injector Pumps should have a return line so it only injects fuel as needed and the excess is returned to the fuel tank. This also helps to keep the fuel pressure under control. Matt at diesel creek could give you a lot of info on diesel engines.
Those specific industrial Kubota engines don't have one, they circulate the fuel around inside the pump with a spill valve. Saves cost on having to run another rubber fuel line back to the fuel tank.
@@dennisford2000 Doesn't matter with these industrial engines, they're designed with a spill valve inside the injector pump to circulate the fuel around a passageway. There is no return line, they don't want one for a refrigeration unit with one of these engines in it, and have to run 2 fuel lines inside the trailer frame rail back to a tank mounted behind the landing gear. They only have one fuel line.
I heard you say you're going to send the Saturn to the scrap yard... I'm a Saturn collector and lover and I would be more than happy to take It off your hands for you when you're done!
i don't think i made any complaints. I dig your work and your channel because you don't make it super serious but your still chasing data. its just more realistic in the sense of a common every day tinkerer.
Haters are going always be haters! This is your channel and show. If people don't like what your doing they can start there own channel. Comments are good and if people don't like the way you do it they can also stop watching. Learning and trouble shooting is fun, Keep up the good work.
Wow just amazing. And Congratulations on your play button. It's been amazing watching your channel grow. Been watching your channel's first build of Honda insight :)
I think that if you remove the windshield wipers you'll boost your mpg and top end:) Thanks for the treat of two videos in one week!!! On the serious side, I hope that you put Locktite on those turbo hose adapter screws. Carry on!!!
My money is on the fuel pump. The D722, depending on who you ask, drinks 0.9-1.1 gph and that’s without opening up the fuel. The old lift pump produced 1.0gph.
Maybe in deep Kansas, we don't know that at the end of the 90's Volkswagen marketed a vehicle powered by a 3 cylinder diesel 1.2L turbo which consumed 79 miles per US gallon, the Lupo 3L (830kg). Which consumes little, pollutes little and it is a pity that we have lost sight of it, thanks you for your perseverance in this way.
40 sec! Congrats. I suspect putting the cold air intake lower near the bottom would give you even a little more. With the air vent completely blocked up, the intake air temps were probably pretty high. Lower might pick up air coming under the car.
I think I red somewhere that turbo’s turbine shaft should be kept horizontal-ish for proper lubrication of the bushings. OEM installations are mostly compliant with that requirement too
Can't wait to see the Saturbo in action. Also, (watching the outro clip) I wonder if you could use something akin to an exhaust pipe expander to make a more smooth transition on the inlet and outlet of the compressor housing on the turbo. I could imagine plenty of turbulence going in and out of the compressor with that abrupt volumetric change in diameter.
Can't wait to see the turbo test... Hopefully it'll help fuel economy too since you'll be able to run the engine at a lower RPM for the same power output.
I grew up with a Ma Bell phone exactly like your red one except that it was a sickly shade of 1970's green. As touch-tone cost extra, we were still using that phone into the 90's. Ever since, I've had to replace the phones at my parents' house every few years as new ones just don't last. Ma Bell had plenty of downsides, but equipment longevity wasn't one of them.
Man this channel has just turned into a turbo tease. Though I would like to mention small amounts of propane injection has shown massive gains for diesel engines. On that small engine you could probably just plumb a propane torch into the intake after the turbo and obviously not light it.
