It would be an interesting test, but I'm wondering if the system might have some rubber O rings in it that have reacted with the DIY fuel and swollen up? It wouldn't take much extra friction for the injector to not fully open, not fully close, or get jammed at some mid point.
My thoughts exactly! I've been running a maintenance dose of Fuel Doctor (developed in Australia and now associated with Castrol) as I often only refuel once every month or two. It seems to do a good job of cleaning up dirty fuels from the demos I've seen, but I'd like to see an independent review.
And he's going to destroy it for the cheap like from the morons out there. A beautiful little machine gets destroyed for laughs. Pretty disgusting in my book.
I see y'all commenting about "waist" oil. I don't know Jimbo personally, but I know he is a fart smeller, uh I mean smart feller. I am going to wager that he knows his audience and knew you would comment on the spelling. Hence, engagement which drives up views, etc. Just my guess. I am frequently wrong.
@@Tommy-Tom-Tom If you had a good sales person, do you think they could've made a lead conversion out of the calls while the person was on the phone? "Thank you for calling about this. Our secretary is a bit dyslexic, but she makes amazing coffee and we all love her so we kept her around and thought these misspelled hangers would make for some good laughs. While I've got ya on the horn, have you been thinking about treating yourself to new windows, doors, or siding before that brutal [summer heat/winter cold] hits us here and we all pay out the nose for HVAC? The windows we use are Energy Star rated and if you stay in your home for 5 years they'll pay for themselves versus the old single pane windows everyone has here. Our doors are highly insulated and weather sealed with a 25 year guarantee on the seals. If they wear out, we will replace them free of charge! My mom used to say "I ain't paying to air condition the neighborhood!" We sell these doors and windows specifically because they're priced right and they're some of the best available. If you're thinking about moving, new windows and doors add a lot of curb appeal and that higher appraisal will cover the bill plus some on top especially if your neighbors all have single pane 1970s specials and old saggy doors with gaps wider than the Panama Canal. I mean, holy moly some of the stuff we rip out is so awful and I don't think anyone deserves to suffer through the brutal [summer heat/winter cold] here when the market has come so far and it's affordable to actually have some nice things for our homes. Don't you agree? We should be comfortable in our houses. Have you ever thought about an air leakage test or a thermal imaging test of your house? We love doing those so much we do them for free. No obligation, I promise you. Even if you're just curious and don't want to buy anything, we can come and just offer you that insight as to where all your money is floating away from every minute that you run that AC or heater. Can I schedule you for a quick visit? I can schedule you with John Doe, he's our most amazing surveyor. Not a salesman at all, just an insulation nerd that loves doing this stuff and I put him on all of our no pressure calls so people are always comfortable with him. We price match too, by the way. John will print out a copy of his report so even if you have a change of heart and quote shop, you can call us back later and we'll beat whatever lowest quote you got from some of these local fly by night guys that I wish would just leave the work up to the pros so it can be done nicely. But anyway, I gotcha down for Monday at 1PM for that survey. John is going to be so happy when I tell him he will have a wonderful 2 floor 5 bed/3 bath home for him to geek out over right after the weekend. Thanks for calling, and just do me a favor and don't make too much fun of our secretary when you call back because the poor thing was almost in tears and she'd die if she knew how many folks like you were calling in to help us with that spelling error. I would certainly appreciate it, she's a great gal. Alright, you take care now, see you Monday."
OK the valve adjustment for that 168F diesel engine is in millimeters, 0.05mm both intake and exhaust on a cold engine. It looks as if your valve adjustment is way too loose. The injection pump timing is around 18° before top dead center. the manual specifies 18 to 20 but given that the adjustment is made with shims can’t always get it perfect. Out-of-the-box these engines are never adjusted properly, i use the drip method to adjust the timing on these engines, there are guides on the Internet, especially for old Mercedes Benz diesels on how to do that timing adjustment and it is the identical procedure for these things. I have bought many of these engines and found them to be just assembled poorly. I usually have to go over the entire engine, including opening up the crank case and torquing, connecting rod bolts, etc. to make sure everything is torqued correctly, the later versions of these engines rely heavily on Loctite for components, such as connecting rod bolts/nuts. Because even if they don’t get the torque just right, at least the Loctite will help prevent it from having a catastrophic failure. Also, the injection pumps are relatively robust in these engines, it is the fuel injector nozzle itself. That is the piece of junk, it is Chinese garbage, and replacing them with a Bosch or, Lucas, or other namebrand nozzle usually makes them run much smoother, quieter, and with less smoke. It is a crapshoot on what nozzle you have. I usually have to open up the injector housing and disassemble it and cross reference the part number because I have not found one of these engines yet that matches another as far as the type of fuel injector used. It’s like they pull the nozzles out of a mixed match 55 gallon drum and whatever they get, they get and it goes in. I have found injection nozzle suitable for a 10 hp in a 3 hp engine. Smoke like crazy and other times I have found 6 hp nozzles in a 10 hp engine that could barely maintain the rated output, so that is the Russian roulette of these engines…. If they are gone over with a fine tooth comb they’re relatively good engines except for the balancing is pretty horrible. Fortunately I work in a machine shop and I am able to balance the crankshaft for the piston etc. and get them to run much smoother. It usually requires welding metal onto the crankshaft because they are not balanced for the correct Bob-weight. From the factory. Remember, these engines are just clones, but unfortunately these smaller 168F engines, etc. are based loosely on the Honda/predator line of gas engines, they did not account for the extra weight for the heavier piston, etc. when building these. They basically took a gas engine, crankshaft and used it on a diesel. The higher horsepower ones such as the yanmar clones are slightly better, but still garbage and need lots of refinement.
@@Averna222 I wish I could post pictures on here, that’s right out of their manual. I agree it seems a bit tight. It works out to be about .002in but three different manuals and they all say the same thing. I set them to 0.005 of an inch. I think maybe they messed up the millimeter and decimal measurement? I don’t know it is hard to read chinglish…. But it definitely has millimeter after in the manuals
To mix everclear and veg oil, you need to blend them under vacuum. There are actual vacuum blenders you can buy and you'll know they emulsified correctly when the whole mixture actually starts to look like milk because it becomes a very, very fine suspension. This should work but in case it doesn't, you can try making the two into actual biodiesel by mixing them under heat for 4 hours with a sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner) catalyst. There are plenty of tutorials for this. Likewise if you ever get a vacuum blender for this, try 80% diesel and 20% emulsified water. It's basically what hydrodiesel is made of.
@@MrTench8 The vacuum blending is also pretty much permanent (pretty much as in it will outlast any length of time that any diesel is usually stored for). In this case the benefit is that it doesn't require extra ingredients that cost extra to buy, and could have unwanted effects in the engine like residues or dissolving seals. Less variables during testing.
Can confirm 50% transmission oil will rase exhaust temps I run 50 to 100% trans fluid in my HMMWV-M998 the 6.2 and 6.5 are multi-fuel engines, (Mechanical injection and injectors ONLY.) The trans-oil will make black exhaust like a MACK truck under load I worked at a transmission shop I got free fuel for like 4+ years ran used engine oil same results I DID FILTER THE HECK OUT OF THE OILS. Thanks Jimbo.
According to the army, the HMMWV it’s not a multi fuel engine. I worked on those things for 23 years. They are meant for either number 2 Diesel or Jet A. They are not meant to run on thicker fuels with a LOW CETANE rating like engine oil, etc. even though they will. It drastically changes the injection timing because your timing is adjusted via the pump housing pressure. The pressure regulator for the pump housing pressure is done via orifice restriction and a ball and spring regulator. Those regulators are meant to work in a certain viscosity range. Having a thicker fuel causes those pressure regulators to work outside their limits and usually causes higher pressure. The higher the pressure, the more retarded. Your timing is in these pumps and will cause lots of black smoke, higher exhaust gas temperatures and eventually will burn up your cylinder heads, pre-combustion chambers, and exhaust valves. The cetane rating of these fuels is also much lower, what cetane is, it is the ability of the diesel fuel to ignite. The higher the cetane means the easier the fuel can ignite under compression. The lower the number means it is harder to ignite, which is delayed ignition, which is retarded timing so on top of the injection pump timing being retarded your cetane rating also causes a retarded timing condition, the black smoke is actually the fuel still burning as the engine is expelling it into the exhaust header and it where it does not have enough air to mix with the fuel. Also, the thicker fuel means more is injected per stroke of the injection pump so it is slightly over fueled for the given rpm and load. There is the manual timing advance lever on the side of the injection pump that takes over after a certain rpm usually around 1300rpm but you still have higher housing. Pressures fighting the manual advanced lever, If you want to run alternative fuels you would have to buy a timing tool called a “Lumy mag”. You pull out number one glow plug and screw in a glass glow plug that an optical sensor plugs onto. There is also a magnetic sensor that goes onto the front harmonic balancer. That compares the time between the grooves on the harmonic balancer, and when it sees the light from the combustion process. You can adjust your timing from there to get the correct timing for heavier fuels, which would mean you would need to advance your injection pump timing, you would also have to reduce your injected amount by unscrewing the Allen head cap screw inside the injection pump by about one flat on the Allen key but then when you switch to regular diesel fuel, it will not be set for that. In other words, what I’m saying just because you can run these engines on alternative fuels does not mean it is good for them. It will eventually cause problems, although it happens over time and slowly a lot of people do not notice it until it’s too late. After I got out of the military, I now work in a machine shop, and I have worked on a few engines that people have done the grease car kit etc. and although the car will run on it. Over tens of thousands of miles it is doing damage. It seems old or slow speed diesels like the early Mercedes or other older vehicles that don’t turn much more than 2 to 3000 RPM cruising down the road will tolerate the heavier fuel but when you get up higher in the rpm range like Volkswagen diesels etc. They don’t particularly like the lower cetane fuels, such as vegetable oil, etc.. and a disclaimer here I’m not telling you to go either way I am just trying to offer some information and education. It is your vehicle, you can do whatever you would like with it and it doesn’t concern me but if you like it, and you want to keep it alive. these are things that must be looked at
@@chrissuessle Lot's of info 👍 I remember seeing a guy who made biodiesel checking the viscosity. With a dip in viscosity guage. Just a metal funnel like thing with small hole in the bottom. You use a stop watch to count how many seconds it takes to drain. I wish I knew more about diesels...So I take it a person who knows what they're doing can run on waist oil, transmission fluid, biodiesel,etc...If they know what they're doing.
I try to convert the numbers when I can, however the temp numbers change too fast and it takes too much effort to convert. As I recall, the majority of the audience is in the US so I keep the measurements in imperial units.
@@robotcantina8957 That makes sense for sure. No complaints from me (fellow American here). I figured the captioning of "Bonnet" for hood might have been you having a little fun with the metric hardliners. Gave me a chuckle
In the 60s and 70s shops would heat with JGF. Many of the heaters were death traps. You would turn on the oil pump and hold the ignitor. Once it was lit you turned a screw on the side until the white/blue flame kernel was about 3/4in long. I bet if you could adjust the mixture you could have saved the engine by adjusting it to lower the egt. The 60s and 70s were dangerous but way more fun!
Because i have experimented with waste oil, and run it daily I am almost certain I know what is going on with that engine. Blends such as you ran are prone to cause 'coking' on the tip of the injector which blocks the atomization of the fuel, so you get a slower and less efficient burn. Cleaning the tip of the injector with a brass wire brush and cleaning the indirect chamber should solve your problems. A couple things that may reduce the coking is blending the oil with 10 to 20% gasoline to make 'black diesel' which can be run straight or blended with pump diesel, I run 70% black diesel to 30% pump diesel most of the time. Personally I have never done the shirt waist method, although some people claim they do without problems, I always figured I wasn't that lucky. I am currently using a 2 micron absolute filtration setup, and have a centrifuge on the way. Advancing injection timing is another important step to success with wmo, you can remove the gasket from under the injection pump and replace it with silicone on those engines. If you want more info I'm glad to share, also NotSoGrandGarage here on youtube has lots of great info.
I know a guy that runs straight waist motor and fryer oil in a Lister diesel, he does have to disassemble it for cleaning from time to time but its super easy to remove the cylinder head
In my younger days as a diesel mechanic, after working on Detroit Diesel 8V or 6V 71/92s, we would force prime the injector pump and do first startup using ATF instead of diesel. The high lubricity was good for startup on the dry injection system, and those engines burned it absolutely fine. Also, as a broke young mechanic, I would save the ATF we drained out of the -massive- Allison transmissions and burn it in my 1988 Ford 7.3 diesel. Also burned it fine! I never tried drained oil, though... I burned that in a heater system designed to take it for the shop.
I love those old Detroit diesel engines, they will run on any kind of fuel that you can give it, and it doesn’t even need to be through the injection system. It will still run on it, LOL it is hard to kill those engines, what a friggin workhorse, although a bit under powered, they just kept running and running
A couple years back when I was working at a gas station, one fella bought a quart of ATF every fill up, and poured it into his newer (this side of 2012) RAM 's fuel tank..and I almost swear I saw a hemi badge on the side, not a Cummins.... Of course... I also remember from my childhood, my brother trying to flush the fuel system of a wagon he just bought with k-1 kerosene. ...the guy he bought it from had accidentally filled it with diesel...
Mercedes Benz used to spec 30 k atf and ps fluid change and we filled the main filter with Dexron. These were times of long ago when the Maldives were still here. Still here today 35 years later
Your issue is injector coking. Your "filtration" method isn't doing you any favors but you likely haven't caused any real damage yet. You've got a bit of carbon on the injector tip causing the spray pattern to do things it wouldn't normally do... EGTs go up ... Power goes down. Pull the injector and clean the tip with a brass brush... You'll be back in business. With that said, there are a few things you can do to combat this. I may or may not have a lot of info on the subject of "black diesel" on my channel. Feel free to reach out if you need some help!
Something I wanted to note: I watch RU-vid on a computer, which is hooked into a large vintage hifi. When you speed up the video of the engine running, the engine makes some really deep heavy rumbles on my sound system. Really gives an interesting idea of how it's running from the deep sounds a phone, laptop or tablet would never produce. If you edit on good headphones I bet you'd hear it.
I was looking for that comment. The petrol (gas for us Americans) is to reduce the viscosity to be the same as diesel, otherwise IIRC is hard on the high pressure fuel pump.
@@kensmith5694 A lot of places say a lot of false stuff. The myth seems to come from that a diesel engine manufacturer ran engines on peanut oil at the Paris 1900 world fair.
Filtering. That's the key. If you filter "waist" oil, you can run diesel engines on it with no damage. I use "waist" oil to run my electric generator and even my old offroader. I burned up already about 300l of oil. The only issue I had is when I put to much oil and not enough diesel. The car started fine but had no power. I changed fuel filter, add a little more diesel fuel and the power was back. In my case the best proportion is 70% of oil and 30% of diesel fuel. To filter oil I use some string filters used normally for water cleaning. 2 cases with inserts and small electric membrane pump. First filter is 50 micron and then 5 micron.
At work we get diesel trucks in all the time that have gas in the fuel. Local gas station has green gas handles and black diesel handles. Backwards from every other gas station. After we drain all the fuel and change filters ill add a quart or two of ATF to the fresh diesel fuel to dilute the leftover gas and help lubricate the pump and injectors.
I remember a fuel test on 7.3l at Wyotech where they showed the students that the engine would run on just about anything including beet juice. As for the ATF, we use to prime our fuel filters with 100% ATF when i first started my career (before I knew better).
okay, you are in error with your mixtures. the goal is to achieve the viscosity of diesel fuel. you can not arrive at a similar mixture using the fuel you are trying to match. your solvent needs to be thinner than diesel, that is why i use gasoline. i have 275 gallons of settled and filtered waste veggie-oil that is mixed with 10% petrol for storage and up to 30% for a winter blend. viscosity and jelling is hard on your diesel pump and injectors. our fuel is filtered down to 1 micron and 0% water.
I agree with the viscosity comment. In the UK we used to have Peugeot and Citroen diesels where certain engines could be supplied with either Lucas or Bosch injector pumps. The Lucas pumps would not tolerate veg oil and would self destruct, with the Bosch pumps running fine.
I've used gasoline to thin out special fuel and made the experience that it either evaporates at the injector tip or worse what it always does, it raises self ignition temperature, making a diesel harder to start. Sounds crazy but you need diesel and a lift pump for thinner fuel or brake parts cleaner
I just learned you want your alternative fuel to be the same viscosity & cetaine rating as the diesel fuel. A thicker fuel along with lower cetane rating will retard injector timming causing high EGT
2stroke low rpm diesels on ocean going vessels usually run on very inferior oil. They use diesel for warm-up and once operating at temp the fuel is switched over to the cheap 'bunker'oil.
Egt temp is from a leaky injector. Pull the injector and spin the motor to see the spray pattern. Id guess its dripping and/or peeing. When its not atomizing well it burn slower and raises temp dramatically.
The one additional bit of instrumentation that would be interesting to see is fuel consumption. I had my bobcat out of service for nearly 10 years. I finally got a new injection pump and fired it on 10 year old diesel that was on the tank. It started and ran on that old fuel. I drained it out and saved it for fire starter. I could not get that stuff to burn, even with a propane torch. I was amazed how well that old puegeot engine ran on fuel that almost wouldn't burn. Old timers would change the engine oil on big Cats then just dump the waste oil in the fuel tank to get rid of it. Thanks for another great video!
Given how it in theory ran good on "waist" oil mixture (assuming it wasn't the initial cause of the failure), it would be interesting to set up a sort of system for this on a vehicle. Essentially a reservoir tank like a dry sump system has. Have an oil reservoir tank. After enough miles for oil to become "waist" level enough (1k or so probably would be enough), flip a switch. This switch closes a valve to the rest of the oil system, separating the reservoir from the system, and opens a valve connected to the fuel system, thus mixing the "waist" oil into the fuel supply. Would be even cooler if you had a two tank system, one with fresh oil, and one empty one. Where you could essentially do an automated oil change that pumps the old oil into the empty tank, and the fresh oil into the engine, and then have the "waist" oil mix into the fuel as prior example. Benefit to the second system would be an easy oil change (though you'd still have to swap filters at some point), and no "waisted" oil. Downside would be that the engine would obviously need to be off for the changeover. The first system you could just do on the fly while driving.
the folks at duda energy in decatur AL have some good chemistry minded people that are willing to talk, they will also sell you good filters for the waste oil. they did a lot of biodiesel stuff back in the day but seem to have branched out to any alternative energy
I think another really interesting expirement would be superheating plastic and separating it into a liquid petroleum byproduct to test as a fuel. Definitely would take a lot of work but would be cool to see.
Niece video ! I don't know if you know this but I did find out that the military trucks from the "Desert Storm" era of time used anything combustible like motor oil and trans fluid mixed with diesel. I know if you were going to do that you'd really have to have a very good filtration system to make sure that the mixture was as clean as possible. I know on my own pickup I used to put a pint of trans fluid to every 20 gallons of fuel only because my pickup only had a 20 gallon tank and , the trans fluid was new but, it is supposed to help clean the pump and injectors. I drove 1000,000 miles doing just that. On the Semi truck we used 2 quarts to every 100 gallons of fuel. It supposed to help in the heat and cold but, you never really know if it's been tested. I never did have problems either way and always put something in the diesel. I know that when you run used filtered vegi oil that you need to make sure the engine is warmed up really good before switching to the vegi iol. I've been around a lot of truckers that use it in the summer time and also mixed a very filtered used motor iol/trans fluid mix only in the summer with no problems. Before any oe comments the used stuff was pumped through three 2000micrn filters which did take time and was done thit the oi or waste at a hot temputure so it would flow better then, mixed with some diesel fuel and filtered again. Either way it took a lot of time but, seemed to run just fine and didn't end up as a waste product somewhere. Any way thanks for testing the different fuel mixtures out.
@@robotcantina8957 personally, I can't weight I love the Sunday morning coffee and cantina, but I live in NC, so I deff understand the heat fact 😅 brotha .. much love , stay safe
As I recall the valve lash should be .010 to .012 on the intake and .012 to .014 on the exhaust. I know it's a touch more than the same style gas engines. Looking at the video evidence my guess is the cam could have gone south on you. A little work with set of calipers or other such device should shine light on the issue. Intake valve not opening to full height would richen up the fuel air mix causing high exhaust temps. Jimbo I'm very impressed with how much abuse this engine has taken and kept running.
the holy grail of diesel engines is being able to put stuff in that looks oily and flammable and have it at least not wreck the engine. An engine design that can barf up or pump through anything it wont burn would be awesome. EDIT: and a monstrous huge built in filter that can filter out engine shards and sand
Hey Jimbo would be nice to see some tests after all the fuel. Like compression, internal deposits in the combustion chamber, health of the cylinder liner. Maybe also a cleaning of the valves to see if it helps. Also like someone other stated using injector cleaning additives.
I think it might have run so well on the waste oil because it was only 0w-20. It would be interesting to see what differences there are if you tried other weights. Say an 80% mix of 5w-30, 10w-40, and maybe something even a little heavier if you can find it.
I can tell you that 15w-40 makes a bit of a difference 😂 You're right, the injector pump is sensitive enough to viscosity to notice the difference. Wether we can tell, that would be interesting to see.
I wasn't the least bit surprised about the ATF. Several diesel mechanics I know (big rig and farm tractor) use ATF to prime the fuel systems when they work on the injectors or even just change the fuel filters. They are not using a blend either, it is straight ATF. Last season when we had the on John Deere 4020 fuel system rebuilt they did it. The 4020 has ran great since and even consumes fuel at a slower rate (i'm sure the rebuilt injectors and pump have the most to do with that.) I've been told that the ATF helps clean up the engine and remove built up carbon.
I don't know if anyone has mentioned it, but cheap, disposable, paper, coffee filters do a decent job of filtering down to the 100 micron level. Or just use a generic fuel filter from the auto parts store, most have a 40 micron rating. Most engine oil filter are in the (95%-99%) 20-30 micron level.
Sweeeet lol .... i wanna see it torn down and see if there is anything noticeable difference to cause the egt to rocket 2-300° like that ... anyways , as always .. great stuff Jimbo , thanks for the entertainment and knowledge, brotha .. peace and love all, keep it rad, stay safe, and build on..l8r famz and keep having fun
LOVE this experiment. I've been running an 80/20 Waste oil to diesel (the little number is the diesel, OR waste gasoline, OR waste jet fuel) mix in my M35a2 and for about 12 years now it been working just fine, i.e., no loss of mpgs (about 13 to 15) or mphs (top speed about 60). But then, unlike regular diesels which have a compression ratio of 18 to 1, my deuce and a half has a 22 to 1 compression ratio AND has very special pistons AND a whole lot more cubic inch displacements than that little fella you are experimenting on. If you can borrow that Rabbit Diesel you worked on a couple months back, you might want to try the same experiments on it. I read that the Rabbit would do OK on a 70/30 mix of waste oil. BTW ... that Rabbit Diesel's injection pump would be a real good vict ... patient for that electronic conversion you are doing to the diesel in the Honda.
about diesel mixed with vegetable oil: many years ago in a conference by Scania in my university, they told the problem mixing vegetable oil with mineral diesel is a long term problem... it start to form a solid block of glycerin/soap inside the fuel tank
i think that there are some really good things coming for the 719cc supercharged intercooled kuboda diesel powered honda insight that requires lots of time
WMO85 is generally Waste Motor Oil 85% (and 15% gasoline). The issue with improperly filtered oil is it cokes up the injectors. Older and looser tolerance diesels like yours can handle it 'ok', but newer stuff will pretty much clog within minutes. I'd like to see the injector when you pull it out. I'm guessing it's gonna be caked in burned on debris from the waste oil. A centrifuge is the only real way to get the contaminants out as a lot of them are sub-micron and won't even be caught by filters (which are usually 10-20 micron). Part of the WMO85 process in terms of mixing with gasoline is also letting it settle. Also, also... never mix motor oil with vegetable oil. They will congeal and create a mess in your lines, pump, and engine.
I made it to 11:00 without coffee, but here I am ready to go. @11:00 I'm thinking, "let's take a shim out of the injector pump and advance the timing".
My coffee should be done soon. Lol I try to start with a cup ready, but sometimes I start the coffee and the video at the same time 😂 Coffee and Cantina is the best Sunday morning.
Running heating oil in my Toyota Land Cruiser 4.0 turbo diesel resulted in increased fuel consumption and rising EGT. After every 500 litres, I would remove the injectors and clean the carbon buildup from the nozzles with a brass brush. After cleaning, everything returned to normal, so its possible the same is happening in this experiment.
I know that in the US diesels are a nrw discovery to most but here in the UK we've run them on just about everything for many years , the one you overlooked and probably the best is Central heating oil ( essentially parrafin ( kerosene) or jet engine fuel, tho by itself its to much of a solvent and and strips the lubricant quality you find in most oils, so you make a sort of 2 stroke mix if you like by adding 1 pint of engine oil(568ml) to 5 UK gallons of heating oil, giving you a 40-1 mix, you can double it if you like for piece of mind, tho more exhaust smoke will be emitted, you need the added engine oil to lubricate the moving parts of the mechanical injection pump to prevent seizing up
@@adamcousins2459 Been awhile since i looked into it. They used to be different in that heating oil could have a higher sulfur content. I know some states required home heating oil to go to Ultra-low sulfur. Not sure if it's the same state to state. But yea i've seen delivery companies top off a Heating oil tank then proceed to drive to the diesel tank and top that off as well.
As a guy that grew up playing with primarily gas engines, small and large... I find diesels fascinating and fun. Ol Rudolf just said "let's engine differently, very differently" and then there's so many ways to make the same thing happen... its neat, I think. I'm glad to see Jimbo doing some fun experiments with this one.
I think you have a leaky injector too, probably a tiny bit of dirt is stuck in the nozzle of the injector letting it leak more fuel when it shouldn't be = hotter egts. Or even a stuck open exhaust valve from carbon build up (valve is open, engine makes less power as its leaking out slightly, governor tries to add more fuel to make up for lower rpm = more fuel to maintain the same rpm when under load = higher egt) Mixing veg oil and waste oil is going to cause polymerisation. It'll go sludgy either in the tank or gum the hell outta the internals of the engine. Just for anyone considering mixing it, don't! (although I think it was just coincidence that the engine failed on it, it wouldn't happen that quick I don't think, and the engine was already dying prior)
Can confirm. My 2012 international really smooths out and runs amazing when she gets toasty pulling a load up a grade. I run TCW3 2 stroke oil every couple fills to keep things clean and lubricated. The marine 2 stroke oil is rated for injection systems, so it doesn't hurt anything
Under advice from old farmers and diesel techs, I used to fill my fuel filter with ATF on my VW diesels, when replacing the filter. Motors never complained and they were all 200k to 300k miles.
Its a leaking injector that usually causes a high egt. Clean the injector and get a better fuel filter to ensure proper functioning of the fuel system.
I mixed gasoline with used oil the only problem I had was if I let it sit a week the ethanol would separate. So I just mixed it before putting it in my truck.
Keen to see a teardown of the engine. Knowing what they can run on I'm guessing the waste engine oil may have caused some damage due to particulate contamination
Try adding a light solvent to your mixture to thin them out a little. That little injector pump is probably struggling to push that viscosity of fuel. I’d be interested to see a bore scope on the piston and cylinder. Also a brief autopsy on the injection system once you replace it.
I forgot to mention in the video that any mix I made using trace amounts of gasoline would cause the engine to run poorly. Its seems odd because folks use gasoline all the time to thin out the oil. A new pump and injector have been ordered and I'll do an autopsy on the old units.
@@robotcantina8957 it’s probably due to the lower octane of gasoline causing detonation. Kerosene is another option or using e85. I’m not sure if it will solve the problem but may be worth trying. Great video though! I love the experimentation!
100% veg oil runs just fine as long as it's not cold. It gells at a reasonable high temperature. I know people who've run cars for ~100kmi on restaurant scrap oil. If you filter out the bugs, fingers and other organic junk it runs just fine. Running home heating fuel is a bad idea. The elevated sulfur will erode injectors and react with the aluminum in the head
A coked up injector is enough for incomplete combustion and increased egt, but hard to tell without an injector tester and taking off the cylinder head for inspection. Slower combustion increases the exhaust temp, but as in an earlier test with propane the combustion is faster and that's the knocking you hear but as the piston is converting the compression energy to movement the temperature goes down and the egt as I remember it goes down because more heat has been converted to actual work. Now take apart the engine and we'll see how bad the piston and head looks. If you don't try then you won't learn anything new.
anything that burn will work in a diesel engine. you only need to control the fluidity(injector nozzle size) and lubricity(pump and injector) also the ignition delay will affect timing and power. with heavy oil use low octane gasoline instead of diesel.
Great video. I was having problems with my john deere 1023e. When i would start it it would start then die right after it did that about 4 to 5 times before it wouls stay running. I put about a quart of auto trans fluid in it and ran for a cupple hours. After that it would start and run like it was new fires right up and no longer dies.
Could the 90%/10% mix cause dropping egt's due to loosening tolerances allowing more fuel to gradually enter and cool the charge? It would potentially have an incremental wearing effect creating that cooling ramp down you were seeing. You mentioned poorly filtered fuel. It makes me wonder.
@@adamcousins2459 It's a common failure. The timing chain stretches over time and either breaks, jumps a few teeth, or eats up the timing cover. Per the Toyota FSM the timing chain and guides are supposed to be serviced every 150-200k miles, but that was never adequately articulated to owners. That's why the later engines went to timing belts until the TR/GR/UR series engines, which have double-row timing chains.
Jimbo you're an international treasure. you've just combined Myth Busters with Project Farm and done a dirty job I was going to get round to maybe soon-ish possibly one day you know. I've never liked the idea of using lubricating oils (new or old) as fuel oil because of all the additives and/or impurities they contain. can't wait to see the strip-downs of the engine, pump and injector. I suspect we're going to see all kinds of nasties.
