Helpful. Another 2 tips from my newbie repair, 1) remove the rear roller first and replace. Do not let the window drop, if it does it slips out of the front rubber channel. I had to remove the door speaker loosen the front channel, and place the window back in the rubber guide. 2) Much easier to leave the clips on the new rollers, and use channel locks to snap them over the ball joint with the clips installed.
I agree with your point about fitting the rollers with the clips mounted. I carry spare rollers in our 9-5, and a pair of water pump pliers that came in the tool kit of an older Saab to clip them into place.
Great video and very useful comments - thank you Saabers! Just wrapped up the passenger side and also swapped the speaker at the same time. I lubed up the rails with silicon lube spray and realized I meant to use spray grease- hoping it’s a nonissue, time will tell but I’ll test the difference on the driver side. Trim tools in hand and pulling the top window trim from the front to the back is the way to go. Also, I did not remove the weather stripping and was fine with access. Bonus is to swap the courtesy light out at same time - mine crumbled.
I went through this procedure several times on two different SAAB 9-5s. There are some tricks and cautions: The rollers kept popping off on me. I've read that when putting them on you have to get two "pops" - one to seat the shaft on the plast roller then another when the pin pops on to the narrow part of the shaft. I could not get the second pop no matter how hard I tried - channel locks included. So I drilled out the rollers. I forget what size bit I used but I drilled down to just short of going all the way through. The rubber in the metal tracks needs to be clean - very clean. A previous owner had greased them. This just acted like liquid traction and made it very hard for the glass to move. I took it out and washed it with hot soapy water very thoroughly - the same for the glass. The only lube I used was a carefully applied amount of spray silicone. I also glued the rubber into the steel track, otherwise it can bunch up and cause the window to seize in the tracks and the cause the roller(s) to pop out (again). The vapor barrier is an important part of the door. The side curtain airbags are actuated by air pressure when the door crushes in an accident. The vapor barrier helps seal the inside of the door. Without it, the airbag could go off too late or not at all. The previous owner of my car tore them off and threw them away. The barrier needs to be thoroughly glued to the door - not just attached with a few pieces of tape, as I found in my wife's SAAB.
This really helped me, I managed to get the window glass to come off the tracks on both sides so I had a hard time figuring out why the dang thing wouldn't roll up all the way even after replacing the rollers. Thank you!
When I popped the arm ball into the roller… I left the pin in and snapped it in… I had to go for two pops. One got the ball into the roller, but did not snap the pin into the groove. As a result, the arm kept popping out and left me quite confused. Squeezing really hard and getting a second pop fixed the issue.
Remember to let the window pass through the rubber silicone (window guide?) channel. My went outside and is scratching towards the triangular plastic at the side mirror. I will reopen and fix it today.
My drivers side went smoothly, but my passenger side was much more difficult because the window came out of both of it's tracks. When this happens and you replace your rollers, you will notice that your window doesn't go all the way up, you may even break one of your rollers and bend the forward metal arm a bit. Don't panic, on a 2003 9-5 Aero, you're going to have to remove the speaker and vapor barrier entirely, then you're going to have to remove the rollers again to angle the window left and right in a circular motion until you get the window back in it's two tracks right and left. You will get it, I did. Once you get your window back in it's tracks, you can re-install the rollers. I applied some synthetic grease to the forward, rubber window track because I want the window to move as smoothly as possible, (the rubber was old and dry and was grabbing the sides of the window) Once I got the window up, I replaced the rear rubber track, glued it in place and put some grease on the inner side of the track. Way more trouble that what you see in the video above, but it got done correctly. When the fellow in the video says that this repair is a preemptive service, it's a good move to pay attention and do this one before the rollers break. I think my drivers side rollers broke at 154K miles and the Passenger side broke at 180K.
about that barrier... it`s not just for keeping moist out. It´s also importent for side airbag function. When the car gets a hit on the door a sensor in the door feels the presure difference and deploy. if that barrier is gone that pressure build up will not accoure and the airbag will not activate correctly.. You should also lubricate the rollers for best performance..athorwise good video... greetings from Sweden
While this may be true for some cars, the Saab 9-5 has two airbag sensors, located in the front and rear of the vehicle on the bumper beam, part number 12772218
@@Eeuroparts It's a very helpful video you have provided and I for one appreciate it, but I did want to point out that the vapor barrier does serve an important function in relation to the airbag, as you can learn from this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zWfwBd9thOo.html
When you are putting the green rollers in you show, but don't say, that you need to hear TWO clicks as the ball joint locks into the roller, and this is why you need to use the channel locks. If you only do one click the whole thing will stay loose and you'll break the new rollers.
This must be what happened to me. Damn new Dorman 74404 replacement rollers just broke on me. Any hints on how to get the cotter pins back on without a fuss?
Me too. Just waiting for the new rollers to arrive. I do worry though that the scissor bars appear slightly bent. I've done my best to bend them back to an acceptable position but I fear if it's not right it will put extra strain on the rollers and they'll break again. Any tips? I wish someone made a better roller, from brass say. They are pretty fragile.
I just came here to see how to take my door panel off. Every one told me it was my window motor, turns out to one of the window rollers is completely gone and the other one is broken.
Tailspin07 i recently saw a saab 95 commercial video from 97 or something. They explaned all the safety features for 95 in that video. Too bad i cant find it right now. It was an official commercial from saab
Thanks for posting. It was a good start for me. I removed the rubber window seal as directed, but I'm not sure why? It didn't interfere in any way with the disassembly. I also had trouble pulling the top plastic frame away from the interlocking bottom ... ended up breaking a tab. It seemed like I should have started from the mirror end pulling it apart. It went back together much faster by making this change. And yes, leaving the clips in and starting with the back one made it much simpler!
Local car parts dealers (Canadian Tire for one) wanted $30 apiece for the rollers. I bought a bag of 10 of them off eBay for cheaper than that. They are apparently Volvo parts. Looks like access to them is a little easier on a 9-3. My 9-5 was a pain in the ass to do, especially with large hands.
I was unable to pop off one of the green rollers so I had to melt it off using the cigarette lighter. It actually worked. I just melted it and then picked it away with a flat head screwdriver
3:09 Actually, I found it easier to remove the door panel with that molding, it's a 1997 9-5 though... Had no problem when reinstalling. Also, I removed the security pins on the rollers upon installation, slided the rollers in place and then inserted the pin. Make sure to have the pin grooves of the rollers in the vertical position. It makes it easier to install them. That way you don't have to squeeze the rollers to hear those two pop sounds.
gonna have to try this in the weekend... just bought a 2007 9-5 vector and as i was winding the windows down after it had been standing in the sun for hours, the passengerside window suddenly startet to tilt forwards and got stuck. Had to carefully move it up by hand and then put the roller up again to hold it in place... really irritating when you've only had the car 5 days and it was fine when i bought it.
I bought a 9-5 and the passenger window started to tilt the second day after purchase. I guess saabs just like to troll their owners with these trickes hehe. Good luck in repairs!
My cylinder lock got stuck this winter. Once it warmed back up and I discovered it wasn’t just frozen due to the negative temps. To fix it I shot some graphite grease in the lock and on my key then worked it back and forth. Finally gave it a firm twist and it popped a couple times. Then it just turned freely without actuating the lock, but after another shot of grease and a few more twists it started working again hah. Maybe I just got lucky but worth a shot...
DO NOT TAKE THE WIRE CLIP OF THE GREEN ROLLER!!!!....you do not take the wire clips off the green roller.......unless you want to make the job a lot harder. leave the clip on and us pliers to snap in in place. You will hear 2 clicks.
Recently replaced our rollers, the rearmost one keeps popping off. Tried grease on the track tried bending the regulator arms slightly, have had it apart four times now
You find any solution to this? I’m having the same problem. If I can’t figure it out the next step is to replace the arms in case they are bent...if that is what you did, were you able to find a guide for doing this?
@@prestonlatham7179 You find any solution to this? I’m having the same problem. If I can’t figure it out the next step is to replace the arms in case they are bent...if that is what you did, were you able to find a guide for doing this?
@@woltergrant Same problem with mine. They just keep breaking.I figured I’d be smart and replace them with something more substantial. So I removed the stubs from the arms and replaced them with bolts. Replaced the rollers with stainless steel washers the right size. I thought that would solve it but as the window goes past the halfway point it seems to resist and the whole inner door frame seems to bend.it’s driving me nuts. I just can’t work out what’s going on… help!!
Does anyone know what that bead of adhesive is that holds the vapor barrier in place? My bead of adhesive needs to be replaced and I'd like to get the right thing.
Here in the UK we use refix tape not double sided tape (bodyshop stuff) it's very thin and you place it on the car door 1st..you can do it easily and then remove the very thin top layer which just leaves a very sticky residue (like thin sellotape if you like) you could use spray tack from an aerosol but it's messy...normal double sided tape will not work btw..it is very important to keep out moisture and its more important than people think..it's there for a reason to stop your door card turning to mush.
Does anyone know where I can find that rubber guide molding for the door? My driver window rattles when its rolled down and someone somewhere didn't put it back after they replaced the window rollers
Thank you, this video helped me although FRONT AND REAR rubber guides can both/either come out when rollers breaks. I did have to laugh about the amount of adhesive the guy in this video used on the rubber guide. A little dab of adhesive (RTV or 3m weather strip adh.) will do you, I don't think the mfg. used any glue so half a tube certainly isn't necessary.
Unfortunately these are a much different design, and you must replace the entire window regulator. Here's a link to help in your shopping. www.eeuroparts.com/Cars/SAAB/1884/2005-9-3-Aero-2-0L-4-Cyl-16-Valve-Turbo/?search=window+regulator However, if NONE of your windows work at all, you may be looking for a fault elsewhere, such as a broken window switch
Does Eeuro have a rear door glass replacement vid? Need to replace the glass on my rear door. I swapped my door out with a nicer door but the glass doesn’t match.
When my left front window is all the way up it vibrates like mad when I play bassy music, as soon as I take it down a little bit, just like 2mm it stops vibrating. Does anyone know why this is happening?
It's offtrack. Someone posted that if you remove the speaker so you can get to the window, wiggle it back and forth until it pops back in trim They suggest you clean rubber trim before trying this as it gets sticky with age.
Thanks. I wanted to see what I just paid my Saab mechanic last week $230.00 to fix on my '07 9-5. You and he, unlike I, have the time, tools, know-how and hand experience to do the job correctly. I am just curious, what does the roller part cost? You pricing.
Hi thank you for the video very helpful. I have SAAB 93 2009 and my driver side rear passenger door window does not work. I heard some weird sound and now the window just drops half way down and I have pulled it up and put some card paper in the slot to keep it up. I would like to know is it the rollers or the regulator and how can I tell.
The regulator is known to go bad, we have an upgraded regulator for the rear of these cars. Visit this blog post to learn more: www.eeuroparts.com/blog/8961/saab_9-3_rear_window_regulator/
Is there any good way to reattach this window molding? Maybe some DIY? :) I just fail this step and now I have small problem to reattach this piece of ... Did you use any lubricants to press door card between this window molding? Thanks in advance for an answer.