Good video and quite accurate as well. Couple of thing you can do as a Saab owner to reduce the issues described. Use only full synthetic oil to reduce 'coking' and sludge issues. The PCV system will love you for it. If you did not do the above from the beginning, drop the oil pan on the engine and clean the screen. Use a generous bit of silicone paste when installing door rollers. They usually fail because of brittleness from ozone. If you're handy, make stainless deflectors for the motor mounts. Under-hood heat from the turbo is the number#1 source of degrade in those. Keep oil off of them as well. Ninety percent of DIC failures and misfires result from people putting non-NGK, non-restive plugs in these cars. Many times I've simply replaced plugs for new clients after their supposed 'tune-up' somewhere else and you can see the misfire count go to zero after clearing on TECH II. Check CPS for non intermittent signal before replacing a good DIC. I've seen a faulty CPS cause a guy to go through two of those before realizing he was after the wrong part. Blend door ...cut the arm if faulty and use the Aluminum replacement part. You'll never have to fiddle with it again. Fuel pumps usually last around 125-135K miles. Use a VOM across the two pins under the inspection plate at the back seat. Sometimes you can tap on the bottom of the tank (carefully) with a rubber mallet to get the pump turning to get you home. Another not-so-common problem, is failure of the seal in the vacuum pump bolted to the head at the valve cover. Oil will 'disappear' and you won't see any smoking or know where it's going....hint!..'brake booster'. These are great cars. You just need to think like an engineer when you work on them...and I have for a very, very long time. Keep up the good postings.
@P K There's rubber hose low down near the sump at the back of the motor, it's part of the PCV system, it gets old and cracks, or splits and suddenly you've got this large mysterious oil leak.
I've had a couple of those of my 2004 9-5 Aero (180k miles): DIC changed after misfires when pulling away from junctions ($100 or so. I also changed plugs to approved NGKs, another $50 or so), coolant bypass valve was making my drive a nice green colour ($25 part, pita to change), and my HVAC/heater is playing up with a 1-11 code (I have the new blend door arms, just haven't got round to changing them yet). Couple other things worth mentioning that I've experienced: the vacuum hoses perish after 10 years or so, so worth investing in 10 foot of silicone hose (1/4 inch or 6mm if I remember rightly) to replace them. Saab forums have useful guides as to where they all go. Another thing is the brake boost valve. The hoses to the valve are tough as nails, but the valve itself has brittle connectors and can snap off. This will lead to very uneven idle. The part itself is about $25 and can be fitted in about 3 minutes - so simple, even I managed it !
my son has a 2004 SAAB 95 ARC we just replaced the fuel pump in his,highschool parking lot&it still not getting fuel/cranking.I dont know if the new pump is bad are what but was running great then died on him last Tuesday*the fuel pump was working we raised the back set &checked&ordered the new one &got it this Tuesday&installed it &its not priming/working.
Great vid! I would like to add a few common classics. Regarding sludge, it is very common on later cars too, usually thats had long ("right") oil change intervals and been driven short journeys. 1. Thermostat/temperature sensor. 2. Short life span rear shocks (especially on SC). 3. Short life span rear A bushings 4. Reverse syncro on manuals. 5. Broken/clogged PCV check valve. 6. Subframe bushings (more common than bad motor mounts). 7. Rod bearings (mostly hard driven Aeros). 8. GT17 Turbos (big one, but i'll guess most american trims are TD04). 9. Clogged throttle body. 10. Servo pump failure and hose leaks. 11. Overall oil problems, sludge and consumption, worn out piston rings, turbo going bad etc. And a lot more of course, especially THAT BLOODY ALARM SIREN BATTERY!
Hahaha great looking coolant bypass valve xD Pro tip: that's the T7 boost pressure control valve... The coolant valve sits at the lower middle part of the firewall :D EDIT: Also the purpose of the valve is to *block off* coolant flow to the heat exchanger in the car on hot days so that the AC work more efficiently by not pushing the cold air past a heater core filled with hot coolant.
To avoid the black sludge make sure you install a so called “mod 6” on the engine. This is what prevents the black sludge on the later models and can be retrofitted on older models. It is very simple and not expensive.
Great video for any SAAB 9-5 owner or prospective owner. 90,000 miles now on my 2008 9-5. Replaced the DIC at 61,000 miles and the heater bypass at 71,000. Haven't replaced the fuel pump yet. On my year, you have to drop the gas tank. Earlier years can be accessed through the backseat. My original window winds are still working as is the blendor.
As a SAAB enthusiast and owner of several SAAB i think you made a great video. There is two MINOR faults in the video, 1 First SAAB 9-5 was build in -98, not in -99. 2. Explaining the coolant valve you showed the boost pressure control valve. All the problem is easy to fix, except changing the fuel pump , that can be a pain in the as if your not careful. Overall the T7 engine is not a great engine, When Saab made the engine they wanted to lower the cost and therefor made the block walls thinner and the piston lighter and at the same time weaker.
If you're handy and have a chunk of aluminum lying around you can fairly easily fabricate your own HVAC arm, bit of cutting, drilling and filing and et voila! Also worth noting, the rear springs on 2001 aero era cars are too weak (don't know if they fixed it), if you go to replace them you'll discover that other than OEM the only option is 10mm lower heavy duty springs, you should definitely get the heavy duty springs, the lower height will simply mean your ride height will be correct since they're stiffer. Using the OEMs won't help the fundamental problem which is too much camber on the back when loaded or sagging, which in turn scrubs out the inner face of the tires prematurely. The green window roller problem is such that you can buy whole bags of them on eBay..... My number one tip, replace ALL the rubber hoses with silicone equivalents, you want your SAAB to survive as it gets older!
Thank you so much for this!!! I just bought a 2005 9-5 aero wagon as my fun car, and now I have a whole list of things to tinker on. I'm so glad I found your channel!
rather important thing about those cassettes, make sure that the one your putting back in, hasn't been laying on it's side or upside down. if so, stand it up and let it sit upright for a while or leave it like so over night to be extra careful. theres a type of oil in that helps to cool the coil packs and sensors. just installing them half hazardly like mostly any ignition system is rather detrimental to their life span which may explain why they're famous for failing.
In the 10 years that I have owned my 2004 9-5 estate, I have done 6 of these. CPS acting up now, but only when I accelerate hard, so... and the coolant valve. That's worth looking into
Good list. I'd move window rollers to the number 2 slot. Other not so common, but likely with age: Starter. Alternator. Neutral safety switch end linkage. Vacuum lines splitting and rotting out. Gas struts for the hood and hatch. Dirt/Corrosion in the seat memory buttons (results in seat reclining to the full back position).
Great video! But I've commented your videos before. And i work as a Road Worthiness inspector(Bilprovningen) i Sweden. You did mention some of the problems with the engine, like the oil sludge. But the Crankshaft ventilation is another major problem with the 9-3 and 9-3. On the 9-5 the oil sludge is often solved by upgrading the crankshaft ventilation. SAAB has an updates crankshaft installation. I Changed it on my 9-5.The work sucked, but i was worth it! But the biggest thing with the 9-5 is the rear. The rear suspension is very undermined for what the car is made for so when you get the chance raise the rear of the car and check the tires. Do the typical wheel bearing move and you most likely will feel not the wheel bearing but the bear-arm bushing, the tire will move. On my Cartestingstation 4 out of 10 cars have so harsh remark on the car that they on get to drive to the nearest available workshop. The 9-3 have a similar problem. The spindle joints in the rear will have some play which it shouldn't. But to feel that move in the rear on the 9-3 you have to raise the car beneath the shocks. If you raise the car with the bear arms you most likely wont feel the play at all....
My sons 2004 SAAB 95 quit last Tuesday as he pulled into his highschool&the fuel pump was coming working&we ordered a new one&it still want crank&we checked all the fuses replaced the relay&im thinking we may have gotten a bad new fuel pump but I was wondering if you could please give me any advice
I bought my Saab from my girlfriend’s dad who’s a mechanical engineer and a total Saab nerd. Everything you said aligned with what I’ve hear from him. Plus we’ve already replaced a bad fuel pump. Great video
Excellent video! I loved my 01 9-5. All of these points are so true however, if you take good care of these cars they are super reliable. I've had issues with and replaced my CPS, coolant bypass valve, and fuel pump. Luckily never had issues with the window rollers - crappy GM plastic. Other issues include the SID or the information display panel - the ribbon separates from the board (easy fix with a new ribbon & solder kit). The fuel pump is a super common issue (If your car stalls and then won't start and no codes- it will leave you stranded- start with the fuel pump). Coolant bypass valve and CPS are common but easy / cheap repairs. Great video!
The coolant "bypass" valve is there to keep hot coolant from circulating into the heater core when you are using the a/c to cool down the passenger compartment. its only intalled on 1997-2005 9-5's newer 9-5s does not have the valve.
Good video, thanks. I've already dealt with the fuel pump, motor and transmission mounts, DIC, and there's one more problem you forgot, is the wiring harness in the trunk lid, with all the lights, on the left top side on the lid, over time will rub the harness and disect/cut the wires, leaving you with no brake lights, etc. I did all of this on this 2004 9-5 I got a little over a year ago. I got it pretty cheap, but all these problems I had to deal with when I got it. And on the coolant bypass valve, I just did a bypass on that bad boy. Took it out. There is a site online that shows you how to do it. That POS bypass valve is a pain in the arse, I reccomend removing it. And here recently I just repaced both c/v axles/hub bearings, inner and outter tie rods/sway bars. Check the c/v axles for sure, cause if one goes bad and falls off, you will have all kinds of problems with that axle swinging around and tearing stuff up. Mine on the right side was just barely hanging on, and I had to drive it 60 miles to a friends house to change it, and I was lucky as hell it did not come off.
4:57 I can see that list, hehe ;) On the serious note however, you forgot about the rear control arm bushings. Those go bad pretty fast, causing negative camber and a horrible clunking noise. Changing them is not a big problem unless you live in the rust belt. Also, it's a good idea to keep a spare fuel pump assembly in your trunk (ask me how I know).
I've done all of these except fuel pump and diverter. I just did Coolent Bypass valve at 174k and am and my passenger side window roller went out at the same time. So yeah, nailed it.
For increasing lifetime of the DI-cassette it is recommended to change spark plugs regurarly. I change them every 6000 miles when I do the oil change. And the right plug for b2x5 engines is NGK BCPR7ES-11. Do not use any other brand of spark plugs or it will kill your cassette. Also I would add balance shaft chain and timing chain issues. They tend to stretch over time and start to rattle. If not repaired, balance chain will grind hole to the block, exposing the oil channel, eventually destroying the engine.
The throttle body also gets gummed up with carbon and needs to be cleaned every so often. But if it goes bad the throttle body looks to be just above $300 (OEM) or if just the solenoid valve is bad $70, and not the hardest thing to change as it sits right up top. And for the most part you just need to clean the built up carbon to get it working right from what i ran into myself and what i see online. Mine has 175K+ miles on it (35K miles from myself). And the vacuum system has a LOT of vacuum leak potentials lol. When i had mine i had to replace almost all seals and lines other than the PCV system ones. Then there's the HVAC control that has a screen with a crap-tastic connection to the board. And my center brake light decided to just fall off one day, upon inspection it was just dry-rotted plastic and used some steel wire to get it back up about 2 years ago. BUT! one huge problem is the trunk's wire harness, the nipple coming off the trunk has a innecessaraly hard bend with a hard angle inside of it to help break/cut the cables. That will happen every few years if you use the trunk a lot and dont correct for the hard bend. I cut a nice smooth curve into it so it wouldn't dig into the wires anymore. In total I haven't spent that much on it. Out of the normal stuff, about $150 with almost 3 years of ownership. Much MUCH less than when i had a turbo Supra. And very well into the normal low end for a luxury brand, although it's no Lexus or Acura.. it's not that much more IMO from buying one that needed work and drove for 35K+ miles over 3 years. Although it might have problems that might get misdiagnosed at some shops and could cost you.
Throttle bodies go bad on the 99-03 years fairly often. I believe it was those years. I always keep a spare one and DIC in the back of my wagon. Along with all fluids. Ignitions can be suspect on the 9-5’s that have broken front cupholders because more than likely it broke when there was a McDonalds XL soda in it and it dumped all over the center console. All the light assemblies on the rear seem to leak moisture into them. Air leaks on the intake are common along with a BPC solenoid and MAF sensors
I just took my car (2004 9-5 2.3t wagon) out into the woods today, to a guy who I can only describe as a car guru, and his favourite brand, and also the one he has worked on the most, is Saab, so I trust everything he says. He even quickly found and fixed 2 vacum leaks for me. Well I fixed one, but he gave me the materials and then he fixed the other one for free. He also listed up many of the common problems for me, and even showed me a Ignition casette that had gone bad. More specifically it had cracked on the plastic part, and allowed water to seep in somehow, and that is apparently what does the killing of theese casettes.
I have a year 2000 9-5 with 170k miles on it. I’ve replaced everything thing on this video atleast once. Only things I can add are the CAT getting abused more from the re-use of burning evaporated oil, and pretty much every single motor mount, bushing, subframe bushings, tie rod.(pretty much everything underneath the car that is polyurethane or rubber) just replace it. 9-5’s will never ride correctly without all bushings replaced. I’ve spent hundreds over the years getting road force balances trying to solve shake issues that were not even from wheels.
I have a '99 9-5 4 cyl since off lease in 2002 with 30,000 miles. I have not had any of the problems you mention and now summer 2018 with 143,000 it is holding up very well (far superior to the 9000). My worst problem is with an electrical wiring short which caused engine shut down, but once corrected has been fine. Wonderful comfort and handling. There are fewer and fewer of them which eventually may make them more valuable , but in the end they finally produced some great vehicles.
Dad had a Saab back in the 80's, got a lemon and drove him crazy. My uncle has, and still does an 05 9-5 with 200k+ miles. Taught me how to drive stick in it. I've always wanted this car but dad said no Saabs allowed.
i got a SAAB 9-5 2,3t 2000 and they made a rebuild kit for the sludge problems. The only problems i realy got on this 275000 km was the fuelpump while running on E85 (Etanol) because the E(5 is very dry and you got to have a ceramic pump for this. Then i have-a-trim kit from Maptun stage4 and some more things and nearly 330 horepower and it still runns very good. So keep your Saab and never sell it :)
Regarding the fuel pump, if you firmly hit the middle of the fuel tank under the car you can get the engine to run for around 10 minutes. It's happened to my twice over the years.
I have an 08 Dame and just had the maptun suspension kit installed along with the maptun strut brace. Having the front pads and rotors done tomorrow. Have akebono euros going on and a set of viggen slotted rotors. I'm trying to get the handling and stopping done before I increase the power. Love these cars.
Turbo often fails after 200.000km if the car have been driven short trips all its life so the engine temp doesnt go up that far making sludge a huge problem on the older 9-5 (98 to 03) and of course oil changes being skipped and going way over due, that is what i have experienced but then i tuned both of mine and after a year or so the original turbo cant take it any more and the white wall appears after the car, not hard at all to replace the small GT17 to a TD04HL-15T, if all exhaust bolt comes out without breaking it can be done in 1.5 hours
Piston rings are common on tuned 9-5s Over 1, 5 bar they get stuck and then you have to use t5 pistons milled 1,1 mm to acomedate T7 headgasket. I have done this and much more on my - 00 aero
My 2003 9-5 Aero with 100,000 Miles List: Alternator, SID (ribbon replacement), Fuel Pump, Throttle Body, Thermostat and Engine Coolant Sensor, Blend Door Actuator, Direct Injection Cassette. Still having random P1530 codes, sending the throttle body into limp-home mode.
Thanks for the video - all the problems you named on the B235R are correct! In germany the small brakes on the 9-5 Aero are a problem, especially if you often go over 120mph. Plus you have to check the vacuum hoses and the nonreturn valve if the engine doesn´t run properly, a tiny air leakage can cause some trouble.
I have a 2005 Saab 9-5 that the key gets stuck in the ignition sometimes. I've read this is kind of common. Also, when the key is not in the ignition and the driver's door is open, there's dinging.
The coolant bypass valve cuts off heat into the cabin heater core when you select full AC at coldest temp to get max cooling. They also fail in the 9-5 SE with V6 engine.
I just bought an 07 9-5 it runs great and it's clean. It's throwing two codes a p1400 and a p1251 I have a lot too learn. But it will be fun to try something different.
direct ignition cassette - check power window rollers - 4x check fuel pump - check crank shaft position sensor - check Added - oil trap valve hose Added - almost all vacuum hoses to turbo Added - digital control panel display - not good in the hot weather Added plus learn to do the work, not that hard and you can't break it anymore than it is broke and if it is as old as mine (2004 w/ 115k) either fix it yourself or junk it. I choose to do the work myself 3 years ago, seems like every year I have a new project. If it wasn't such a fun car to drive I would have let it go.
Auto Autopsy I certainly will. Besides, it gives me reason to re-join the UK Saab owners club. I took the 9-3 cabrio to their 40th anniversary show. Was awesome seeing an airfield full of Saabs of all types.
For a stylish European car Saab's are on the whole reliable, certainly more so than a BMW or Merc of a similar age. Parts (especially service parts) are not hugely expensive and plentiful but having some kind of mechanical knowledge is a must, unless you like paying for repairs. They are pretty easy to work on and everything mentioned in this video are pretty easy for the DIYer. Considering that they are now between 12 - 22 years old they will suffer the same kinds of faults as any car so preventative maintenance, regular servicing and care will be your friend plus start with a car that has a good history and is in good condition. Saab's were traditionally bought by physiotherapists and architects and aren't usually driving within an inch of their lives like other brands so finding a good example is pretty easy. Join forums, search for repair videos, buy an OBDII scanner and get breakdown coverage just in case.
The shift linkages are a headache in the early gen 9-5s for the standard trans, because of the plastic housings that connect to the ball joints. They can break overtime and just make for an overall sloppy shift. Later they reinforced the design with more robust metal housings which is how they should have been engineered in the first place.
Good video. I can tell that I have an Aero 9-5 from 2003 that I have owned for 10 years now and I have never had any faults on it. I have done all the service myself. I've never had the eight problems you tell us about. What is important to look at when buying such a fantastic car such as SAAB Aero is how many owners have had it and how is it managed. If the truth comes out, they are great fun driving from chewing gum tough guys in BMW and Mercedes with an old SAAB. The last 8 years my car has been tuned with 3´ exhaust system and nordic tuning software (about 280 hp). Nowadays I have the software myself and try different settings. A SAAB Aero Is an Investment. Just wait....The prices Is goung up now. Here In sweden today you have to pay at least $3000 for a good Aero from 2003. Before a couple a years ago you coul´d almost get It fro free. I´ll think If you are carful and can ceep your SAAB in good condition this car can be an Investment. I´ll thing aprox $25000 year 2035.
What seems to be a common 9-5 problem is EVAP issues. Mainly the one way check valves failing and/or related hoses leaking and at times the solenoid fault . CEL code P0441 The 9-5 ALSO the Engine codes for the YS3E are: Linear B235E, ARC B235L , Aero B235R .
Good video. I've been looking to get a 9-5 between with the 2006-2009 body style. Black on Black would be ideal. I've been researching this model for some years and think of it as an ideal car for my style, travel needs and to an extent personality. Looking to buying a solid one within the next year or so that's been well-maintained w/ service records. Finding parts are somewhat of a concern, however - I like these so much that I'd take the time to learn how to do the fixes myself. Good info. My other issue would be what I understand to be a head gasket leakage issue. Not knowing if a 9-5 had that issue and for how long would raise some eyebrows as I'm sure that could lead to other engine replacement issues if left untreated. Thank for the vid man.
Nice job my 2002 Linear with 221K has experienced all those problems. I've also had to rebuild the 5 speed auto, and get a new cassette for the turbo. Currently I need motor mounts again. Nevertheless the car is a joy to drive. Other future projects might involve the oil seepage and worn bushes. I did recently need to replace sway bar links and bushes
I have a 2003 areo 2-9 wagon, my friend has a earlier 2-9, both car crank slow, they both start ok they just crank slow, im new to this car he is not he said it always starts that way Thanks Patrick
Good vid 👌🏼 While swapping out the D.I.C. for a Genuine SAAB one (as the aftermarket cheapees don’t last very long) stick a set of fresh NGK spark plugs in there as well 👍🏼
Another problem is the Neutral Safety Switch can go bad due to fouling; being the contacts get sticky or dirty but you can either remove it and take it apart to clean the contacts and do light dust of anti-seize compound but then to reassemble it but may have to use an epoxy medium to ensure the housing components are secured and no breaches for future fouling... Or just buy a new one to replace it? I have a 2001 9-5 Aero 2.3L [ 4th Saab car since 1989 ] I bought the Aero back in 2004 as 2nd owner; having turbo issues recently for the 1st time; turbo whining at low acceleration speeds as the noise dissipates past 14/15 mph and returns at 10 mph to idle plus having low boost issues/ irregularity while driving... at engine start, high RPMs to about 1400+ then drops to normal idle RPMs takes about 30 seconds or so to normal... No Check Engine Light at all?... plus a leaky water pump either need a replacement or just a bad O-ring or gasket or both? I also have an oil leak from one or both oil cooler hoses? Since the surrounding passenger side has the oil leak on the lower part of the engine area and some that drip onto the ground after been driving... I did experience oil sludge like back in 2007 [ lucky I had extended GM warranty as the cost was over $6k ] and had to have a rebuilt lower transmission block there was a fix to replace the oil screen to the oil pan but I could not find in time being the afterthought after the work was done to replace with an older OEM screen from a 900 model that has much larger openings than the 1st generation had been too fine of an oil screen if you ask me? Oil coking sludge would cause a blockage to starve the engine of oil not to cycle through... The first owner was using standard oil for the most part which was a bad mistake as the recommendation was to use full synthetic oil only?!? I am on a budget nowadays and to find me an OE replacement turbo but you can't find one for a TD04HL-18T? The best aftermarket being a direct-fit or exact-fit would be a 15T compressor or maybe go up to a 19T upgrade if I can afford one? As labor isn't cheap and to pay a mechanic ASE level hourly that is timed for the type of service so far is either nearly 1000 or higher? I did find someone that is an ASE certified mechanic that worked on Saabs in California dealership for over 4 years gave me a quote of $530 bucks at his shop as I would buy the parts would be best to save money! It still has lower mileage of only 115k+ not bad for nearly 19 years old as it was built in August 2001.
hrottle body ,motor mount and another supports for the motor cause sometimes the car starts to sake a little and the hole vacum lines you have to know how to replace .
Another common problem with SAAB 9-5 is that the regulator motors for hot/cold temperatures inside the coupé tend to break leaving eighter the passanger or driver side blowing max cold or hot. It broke on my car on the drivers side and blew burning hot air on me constantly. You fix it ''simply'' by replacing the regulator motor but on the drivers side it's tight to say the least...
Well like any other car it's got some problems... I had to change the air con arm with alu one and now works perfect... No sludge problem... Nothing from above mentioned. A friend bought Porsche Boxter, and had troubles with windows as mantioned in the video and furthermore catastrofic failure of IMS bearing resulting engine failure! Can you imagine big name such as Porsche having such a poor design?!!! Costing a lot more than Saab to buy and maintain. After all at the end of the day Saab can be a lot more reliable than many so called "premium" brands if you care a bit 😉 Maintain and enjoy your Saab's people 👍
This also applies the B205E powered 9-5's as well, but I guess you never got that engine in the US. And of course the B235E and L engines. Not just the R.
I have a 2007 Saab 9-5 Aero Sedan with 262000 miles on it and it runs strong with no issues. The only issue I have is the headlights and the dash flickers and goes out. If anyone can help me with this issue please let me know. Thank you.
I have a 06 9-5 that will start when it's cold and continue to idle but as soon as I give it some gas, it dies. Why? Also is the fuel filter inside the gas tank? Cause I can't find it.
Hey dude, I liked your video 👍🏼 Very professionally explained. I own a 95 1.9tid linear. I'm happy with it. Just a few things I would love to hear advice is with a steering wheel alignment and vibration. My mechanic says it could be many things. We have noticed that the tracking alignment doesn't really help make the steering wheel straigh and centered. And yet the vibrations persist depending on the position of the wheels whether they're straight or in an angle. Also a minor issue is the key washers, one of them is blocked, and solutions on these two problems please? I also noticed the noises from the engine mounts, and yes it sounds like a crushed rubber when turning in corners.
Yeah you could need new motor mounts, especially as the car ages. Could be number of things for the alignment. tie rods, end links, etc. It would probably be best to take it to a mechanic to diagnose exactly what it needs
I had the window roller go. Currently I'm not getting heat in the cabin. I replaced the thermostat and flushed the coolant. It was sluggy. Still no heat! Could it be the coolant bypass valve?
Got a first gen 9-5 aero 2.3t and bought it for a year ago but can’t really call it reliable since I’ve had to swap turbo, all vacuum lines, springs, coolant hose, catalytic converter etc
I really love your videos, so I just bought a 2595 aero and I’m having a few issues. The first issue is an oil leak the mechanic said a crank seal something LOL… I also have a really bad negative camber in the rear, is that shams? And is transmission cooler lines a common problem that leak also?
What does a whining noise mean check engine light is on and the car starts sometimes but will be jerking and making the noise. And sometimes it will stay on and shut back off after a few seconds
Lets not forget about cracked pistons. It's fairly common on T7 engines. Happened to me with my 06 9-5 wagon at 130K. Set of forget pistons was only about $600 ant took a couple weekends. Worth it! She'll probably run another 250K now. Couldnt be happier.
My son has one and it has a multiple misfire . We have changed spark plugs , coils , and spark modual and the light keeps coming back . I am wondering if this could be solved by replacing Crank sensor ? What do you think?
I know this is kind of an older video but I just purchased a used 2005 9-5 arc and it seems that the turbo is not boosting and the engine just has no power, making it a very slow car. Does anyone have experience with this or know where the issue lies? Thanks for taking the time to read this!
I own a '99 9 5, bought it in early 2021, had less than 49,000 miles on it, it's now at just under 67,000. Within the past week have experienced periodic slow acceleration both from a dead stop and while actually driving. RPMs run up but acceleration does not match. There are NO warning lights. Had codes read at an AutoZone and nothing came back. Any ideas?
@@AutoAutopsy Yeah, the transmission's shot. Having it replaced. There was a small leak of transmission fluid but my mechanic wasn't too concerned, he just said to keep an eye on it. For a little more than a week the fluid was right at MAX on the dip stick, then something caused it to drain empty, the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT and CHECK GEAR BOX lights came on and . . . Up to that point NO lights came on and thus no code was thrown, so . . . Now I'm driving a rental, waiting for the work to be done. Aghhhh!
One thing that stopped me from buying used SAAB was stories of DIC not just misfiring but failing completely while people drive on the highway and causing a very dangerous situation since DIC's failure would also mean no brake assist and no power steering. Now I wonder if people were over dramatizing their experiences.
The serpentine belt definitely! 9-5 has middle idler pulley. Don't use this pulley. Get a shorter belt and forget the second idler pulley exists. SAAB realized this pulley was casing problems there are two belt sizes..one to bypass it. I would strongly advise it.
I also had to replace the ignition coils I'm my saab 9-5 2001. Yesterday took it to a Saab mechanic with the oil pressure light on and he warned of sludge and dropping the oil pan for cleaning or some kind of pressure sludge cleaning. Replaced the oil pressure switch and problem seems to be gone for now.
Russ, a one Time saab body man told me he saw mechanic using a big curved ice pick type tool to stab holes in the pick up screen to get oil pressure back on a car. Just something I heard, good luck.
I'm looking at 2 Saabs on craigslist. Both are 9-5s. a 2000 Saab 9-5 Aero sedan 5 Speed Stick and a 2002 Saab 9-5 Aero Sedan. I don't have the money on me to buy one now but as soon as I sell this slow Mercedes Diesel, I'll get my hands on another Saab. I miss having one!
My 1999 -95 has 217k on her. Bought for $750 with a New clutch and great tires. Ac doesn't work. Passenger front window is stuck up...no leaks is nice. Engine light for misfires...can't tell. Runs 💪 lightly moddified with more plans.
I have a 1999 9-5 and i still can't figure out the headlights! I changed the bulbs, replaced blown fuses and got a new "lamp control" relay. (The orange relay the forums said is most likely the issue) I can't drive at night, I need to fix this soon!
@@AutoAutopsy I know oils can create hot spots on headlight bulbs so i always wear gloves when changing them. But i assume it was the relay because i haven't driven at night since i changed it until i got off work and i was unaware they were working. I think i fixed it!
SAAB 95 came 1997 and ended in the beginning of 2012. SAAB 95 Aero 1999-2001/ 230 PS 2001- 2005/ 250 PS Edit: Maybe it was only available in US between 1999-2011 ( yes it was ) Link: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saab_9-5 After 2004 when SAAB re-engineered the engine regarding the oil problems it became reliable. In Sweden they had to recall the earlier models due to the crankcase ventilation being wrong in a way that caused the engine to fail/ it did not lubricate the engine enough. That was around 2002 and then in 2005 they had to recall some 130.000 for a problem with the electronic box. They say that the SAAB 95 was the beginning to the end for SAAB. Ps. I own a SAAB 95 2005 myself and it is a lot of car for the money ;)
Thank you for doing this video. I would like to purchase a low mileage (28,000 miles) 9-5 Aero and I found it very helpful. I have a very important question that will determine whether or not I will buy it: Are these parts still available in 2003? Many thanks in advance.
yes - you can still get parts! I have another video on parts source, here, if interested: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ARVbmaQ7Dn8.html
Thanks! I just bought a 2001 9-5 Aero with 28,900 miles on it in absolutely mint condition with no rust. A wonderful car!! It's comforting to know I can get parts- I couldn't find a replacement windshield for my '97 9000, so I was a little concerned. There are two faults. 1.) the shark fin antenna is toast. Can it be replaced from the roof, or will I need to remove the headliner? How do you do it? Can my mechanic do it or should I seek out a body shop? It looks like it will leak in the rain. 2.) The plastic that protects the wheel well edges has detached itself from the metal. The clips won't hold it against the rim- the gap will trap crud and eventually cause rust. Are replacement plastic liners available? Should I bring it to a body shop? I was considering using a heat gun to soften it, but the car is so sweet, and I would hate to butcher it. I have no regrets at all about buying this incredible car. I wish you lived nearby! Thanks for the good advice- I truly appreciate it and have subscribed to your channel. I'll definitely study your parts video. @@AutoAutopsy
I have a 2001 saab 9-3 turbo. It starts great and idles fine. I can Rev it and no problems. But as soon as I put on drive it stalls out and shut off. I read forum it say casset plugs and check the sparks house for oil. Any other advice, I replace the pcv check valve which was broken. I will check these items.
could be those too; im not an expert on the older 9-3's. I would think it could also be the CPS. it might be best to post on some facebook groups for help
My 2006 9-5 intermittently won't start. It's very random. The dashboard won't light up when I attempt to start the car. It cranks strong but won't turn over. Sometimes while I'm driving the dashboard will all of a light every warning up (brakes, low gas etc) then go black then light up normally. That's generally my signal that soon it won't start. We have no idea what's causing this.
Great video, thanks. Have a question for you. My 2005 9-5 was running great, the intermediate flex pipe decided it was time to break from the rest of the system. A few days later, the car died in driveway while at idle. Would restart as long as I was on the accelerator a bit, but would die when taking foot of the gas. Thought the Idle Air Sensor may be the problem, but Saab dealer says the 2005 9-5 doesn't have one. I live 110 miles from the dealer, and not comfortable with their abilities, and not sure if my local mechanic has much knowledge about Saabs, probably not. Any ideas. ?? Thanks, Larry, AKA Grumpydoc.
I have a 9 5 wagon, turbo, has been wonderful. One thing my mechanic can't figure out is the air bag light comes on 2-3x per driving trip. He thinks it won't deploy if needed. Where can I get this fixed?
Bypass valve for turbo, lid on the engine cover the plastic part breaks. Vacuum lines and thermostats also go to hell on regular basis. Overall an incredible engine.
Also want to thank you for introducing and speaking great about Saabs. Just bought my 2nd SAAB 9-5 yesterday. A bit rust Xenon Metallic red paint Electric controlled seats Whitish leather seats Bought it for 800 dollars. Hell of a nice car once i change that turbo. One thing also about these engines is that the garrett turbos are not that good. The mitsubishi TD04 turbos that are fitted on the Aeros are alot better.
Hey i have a question: does it matter if its a 95 wagon or a sedan? and should I expect the same problems outlined in the video? Any help would be very appreciated!
