After removal, slice the bottom of the heat shield where the screw goes through approx 4 o'clock. Place new sensor in cavity, screw in bolt but do not tighten to allow heat shield to slide from top angle onto the screw. Tighten. This will make installation much easier.
Just had the engine warm-no start problem with my car and this video is what I used to fix it... The car now works PERFECTLY, so thank you for posting. While I was fixing the CPS we uncovered that the last mechanic who worked on my car accidentally left my 02 sensor unplugged. The car was running like CRAP and I had no idea why. Now the car runs better than it has in a very long time and the check engine light is no longer on!
Thanks. This helped me replace the crank sensor on my 01 Aero wagon. It wouldn't start if I shut if off after the engine heated up. I'd have to open the hood & wait for it to cool down before it would start again. Btw the bolt holding the little heat shield & the crank sensor is a torx bit. Was the only thing I couldn't make out from the video.
It is soooo attractive with women that aren´t afraid of trying to fix their cars (and other tech stuff). I can´t stand the "Noooo, im a girl, i can´t fix a car" mentality. You sure can´t if you´re not trying.. Thank´s for a good video about the cps. I have a 2000 9-3 2,0T (184hp). Changing the cps on my Jeep Grand Cherokee was a nightmare. Located between the last cylinder and the firewall.. Gaaaah!!!
Before replacing the crankshaft sensor, crank your engine while watching the tach. If the crankshaft sensor is good, you'll see movement of the tach RPM needle. The RPM needle deflection will be small (~50 rpm or 1/10 meter deflection toward 1,000 RPM) but will absolutly lift off zero, if the crankshaft sensor is functional and does NOT need replacing. My experience.
i noticed even before i crank it, key at the ON position, the Turbo needle already move up pointing mid range turbo. Is that correct? My car won't turn over, so i'm trying to figure out why. The DIC and fuel pump are good.
I have a 2001 Saab 9-3 se Hatchback, and have intermittent starting problem, every now and then it wont start turn the ignition key everything light up on the dash it just don't turn the engine 5- 10 minutes of trying it will start right up. please help
I have his exact same problem...I noticed after the car is warm it does not start...then when the car cools down a bit it turns on. I think it is the crankshaft sensor but not 100% sure, I am going to replace it this Wednesday and see if it works
Congrats on the fix! Because I'm an amateur it is hard for me to accurately describe, but I'll try. It's one of the most important sensors on your Saab because it relays info about RPM's, idle speed, and firing. When it goes out, the signs are a car that won't start especially when hot, lagging acceleration, and/or the car just stops while driving. I had all of these symptoms on my Saab. Glad it worked out for you.
Duchess DIY I was inspired by you doing it without any experience wrenching before, and to my disappointment, I have not being able to remove that bolt cover, and now I feel that I am stripping it. So upset right now.
Resperado Resparado, I almost stripped mine also. All I can suggest is you hit it with a ton of lubricant like WD40, then let it sit for an hour or so, maybe hit it again after that if you're real close to stripping it. Good luck!
Duchess DIY That torx bolt is a bugger because of the access, as you said. What I did was work from under the car (had it on ramps) and rig a simple tool with a torx 30 bit in a screwdriver bit holder, then I use a small box-end wrench down over that to turn the bit holder and loosen the bolt, and it came out pretty easily that way (2001 Saab 9-5).
