I'd also wrap the tater and mushrooms up tight - and use wire instead of zip ties! Heat enough to cook the tater is going to melt the zip tie. My truck's engine smells don't need to be on my food.
After removal, slice the bottom of the heat shield where the screw goes through approx 4 o'clock. Place new sensor in cavity, screw in bolt but do not tighten to allow heat shield to slide from top angle onto the screw. Tighten. This will make installation much easier.
Well, she's no JustinHiFi, but this method of pulling the spring tail forward, vs. pushing it to the side actually worked better for me than Justin's way. That little "click" sound is quite satisfying when you finally get it.
it's incredibly rare to find women interested in genuine classic cars - definitely not found anyone like this here in Australia. But being a Saab it's a proper classic.
maybe make it go into limp home mode..then film EXACTLY how you resolved it. only takes second to do and would help sooo many knowing EXACTLY what to do vs. just describing it verbally.
6 years later, I have my own Saab. Tried to fix it, but my ribbon cable was too low quality, big rip. The screen is like your 2nd attempt, even after using heat, etc. Luckily I had a perfectly working back-up SID2 but the speaker does not work. Does not bother me too much. What I learnt: buy from the well known shops like pixelfix. People on RU-vid and Saab forums recommend it. Thanks anyway for making this video!
Thanks for the video. Anyway with so much anti sieze on NGK s.plugs you can trigger "engine light" code... NGK does not recommend use of anti sieze at all!
Oh no... Hate to tell you 6 years later that the tool you needed was right in front of you the whole time. In the spare tire area, Saab provides a screw driver handle with 3 torx bits and a flat head. If you still have this car, or another saab, that screw driver is good for taking apart damn near the whole car. The entire interior at least... glove box, dash, console, etc. and definitely those screws you pointed out!
