I am putting this engine on my Pitts 60cc as well. I heard them say that the DLE-60 twin just fits into the cowl without having to cut it. Haven't looked at the exact dimensions yet, but I hop this Saito 61 fits without having to cut.
Nice motor and at that price you need to break it in correctly if you want it to last a flying lifetime. Do lots of touch and goes on your maiden, that plane was made for them.
As restrained as it was I had no concerns. I have learned to respect them but I don’t fear them. I have seen many mistakes made by people. Vids make things look closer than things were. Thanks for the compliment.
I always felt that Saito was overpriced.... but after I finally bought one and experienced how great quality they are, trust me they are worth the price. If you break it in properly, use the right oil/mixture etc, they will last a very very long time.
Next time I would probably opt out of using optical kill switch and just rely on my trim switch to kill the engine. I think the fewer electronics on the plane the better. No dual rx's or redundant systems for me. I would use a separate ignition battery and a separate rx batt. so no ignition noise travels to the rx or servos. I used 2000mah nimh for the ignition and rx batts. I suppose one can use lipo for that but you either regulate it or make sure ignition and servos can take the higher voltage. Again, a regulator is added to the electronics list. I got good five 20min flights on the nimh battery. I like how you're using the ceramic fuel pickup and the magnetic fill plug. Although I never had problems with using regular fuel pickup but I did run the fuel line in a special loop above the tank and the line was fastened to the tank with velcro. I had one nasty problem with my sensor wire (from ignition box to the magnetic pickup) the wire would intermittenly conduct and would kill the engine out of the blue. I finally put in a spare ignition box and sure enough that solved the problem. It's probably best for the pickup wire not to move too much. The prop blast will move it as well as the vibrations of the engine. The bad wire was from DLE ignition on the very popular dle 55cc engine. The other thing that I learned from messing with gas engines is that they vibrate more and all the wires need to be fastened to the fuse securely so they will not move much. Also, they should not touch anything if possible or the insulation will wear off. I used a plastic spiral sleeve on all my wires and that helped a lot. One other thing, if you're using a transmitter module in the back of the radio, make sure it doesn't move by taping it to the case. You don't want any pins moving as they will break off the circuit board and cause your RF link go kaput and your plane too. I lost one or two planes because of that before I figured out the problem. Always use blue locktite on all your nuts and bolts. Using a regular dino oil is ok too and it's not about the quality of the oil ie. synthetic vs mineral but the quantity used. I used mineral oil at 32:1 on my dle 55 two stroke and I know four strokes need more oil content. I never had problem with mineral oil and it's a lot cheaper. I think I used regular lawn mower oil I bought locally. No not stihl ultra or exotic stuff, I think it was Ace Hardware house brand. I had my yak 54 go straight up forever until it was a small speck in the sky. Good luck on your flying.
I gave up NihH batteries years ago when I got a few packs that were bad (showed a full charge before flight but crapped out about 1 minute in. BRAND NEW and expensive packs!) and they cost me airplanes! I have been using ONLY LiFE packs since then. They can be charged inside the plane as they won't ignite like lipos and they hold a charge forever...unlike NiMH, NiCad, OR Lipos.
Finally got around to checking the valves in my Saito 57. It sat unused for a year. The valves need not adjustment. The RV-4 is ready to go this season
Just a minor correction. 1/2 gallon will be about 1.9 litres of gas. How is hand propping this motor? On my Saito FA300 twin, I only hand prop and haven't needed to invest in a heavy starter. I run this motor with ignition on glow fuel (original single carb) Usually fires on.the 1st flip when properly primed.
Great video!!! great info!! Question: i have Redline oil ... how much and do i actually put it in the nipple to lubricate the crankcase and then put a small piece of fuel line with a screw on top? thanks again for all the info on this build... it helped me out immensly!!
I have followed the instructions to the T. I have a brand new saito fg-57t that I have yet to break in. It does not state whether the gas tank should be in line with carb or above. I have tried it both ways.. The problem I am having is it only runs long enough to burn the fuel that I just choked into the carb. Following the steps in my manual book which is 6 1/2 x 5 inches with the cover saying SAITO twin-cylinder gasoline four-stroke engine. can you offer any help?
I meant to say I only notice the air bubble prior to choking it...I am not sure if it was still there after it ran. however the bubble was there when I started to choke it again. Right now my arm is too sore to sore to try it again. 82 years old and just can't keep it up. @@JustPlaneCrazy
You need to see if that air pocket is there when the engine shuts off. I would start by making sure there are no leaks and the mixture screws are set right
jeremy perry cowl does not hit the exhaust at all. Finding the sweet spot for that bracket is key. I run the ignition hot into the optical and the optical to the receiver. So it’s switched off a channel in the receiver. That switch is also set up throttle kill as well. So I have both a optical and mechanical kill at the same time.
Hey Brendan i am waiting on getting my cubcrafter from horizon. I also am looking at the Saito set up and was wondering what pitch did you get on your Xoar prop. Thanks.
david danchise 22x10 just for breakin then 22x8. I flew it a ton this morning. 2 flights at over 30 minutes each. Long run touch and goes as well as take offs. That 22x8 gets it off the ground in less than 8ft with full flaps and has plenty of power for climb out. Very scale flying. Big loops, Cubans, illemans are no issue. Engine and prop combo work great.
@@JustPlaneCrazy perfect thank you for the quick response. I really appreciate your videos. This is my first ARF and your videos have put me a little more at ease.
Did you use the kit standoffs or the standoffs that came with the Saito? it looks like the kit standoffs but aren't those too long for the 7 1/2 inch measurement form firewall to the prop nut? thanks for your help.
@@JustPlaneCrazy what size did you use. the saito comes with 35mm. I think I need a 50mm to achieve the proper spacing. sorry for all the questions, I went with the Saito like you did and the kit was designed to use the DLE so I am having to figure everything out and this is my first ARF.
@@JustPlaneCrazy i was gonna mount mine for a EME 35 in that same spot...but was worried. So its on inside of firewall as I don't have any other spot under cowl. My exhaust is not super close but the engine is inverted so the fins are fairly close. If i get any rf interference i will try in same spot as yours
180-190*. Engines actually rise in temp after shutdown. So all engines go up a bit then eventually cool down but that’s the correct temp for this engine
@@JustPlaneCrazy I was hoping you would give me a temp for each cylinder. I don’t remember the temps but on my engine the aft cylinder was hotter by 20 degrees, talked to horizon, they did t have an answer?
I did have a varying temp by about 10 degrees lower on the right head I believe. I have gone through two engines now with major oil leaks. They are sending me a third. U have any oil leak issues?
hello i would like to know which engine mount you use that of the saito engine or the one sold with the plane thank you very much it is really superb yours
If it’s the factory spinner that came with this plane you need to remove it and reset the back lip. It’s small and a pain to get seated. Off center is not good. At high rpm it will eventually cause damage.
