Salvage Copart Flood 2013 Dodge Dart SXT Engine Tear Down PT1 

that assembly you removed is a combo of an oil pump and balance shafts, the balance shafts reduce vibrations in the engine

Great content man! More of this stuff please! I'm impressed with how you are digging into projects like this where before you would not have done it!

that stickey stuff is the coating on the windings inside the starter,the windings got hot and melted the coating.in short the starter is shot,finished,gone ,done for and in general broke,gone andreally no good

You gave it a great try to get the motor freed up. Keep the videos coming. Thanks from South Florida.

Tell Tim Good job 👍🏿 you guys get along good together Brothers forever

BSM- balance shaft module (Balance shafts and oil pump all in one)

Finally some actions! I love your videos Randy 😍

Keep up the amazing vids man, sad the dart engine was frozen was lookin forward to seein it run. Good to see you getting things in order

Another great video from AAR, thanks for the show today. It's to bad that son of a gun wouldn't brake lose but then again if it would have we wouldn't have had the opportunity to see that weird ass oil pump . I shared the video again on my FB page, ao if I can share I dare everyone else to share. We need to get more subscriptions for Randy & Tim!!! GO AAR!!!

Great video Randy hopefully you can find a good running engine for that dart. I believe you can get it done in no time. Keep up the great videos my friend shout out to you from Mexico

I believe this 2.4L engine was originally a Mitsubishi design. Hyundai used it in their cars and eventually partnered with Chrysler to increase volume. They dissolved the partnership when they went their different design directions. The base engine design is the same and is still being used today.

The engine has to come out through the bottom, and that thing you were baffled with is a oil pump, a high volume type and it like that for the variable valve timing.

If nothing else,,it is a learning experience for you & us, liked watching you do the work on this, I know it can be frustrating having these not work out but with your experience you will come out ahead on this someway, liked vid, keep up the Great work

Balance shaft module.. on modern 4cyl engines it helps keep them from destroying itself. It's also timed with the engine

The engine and transmission usually are taken out as a assembly by lowering the whole front subframe, it's usually not possible to attempt to take either out on it's own without dropping the subframe since this is a FWD car. I would say put a low mileage used engine in it and ship it out. I'm sure you can get 5500 for it at least with a low mileage engine swapped in and a through detail. I appreciate your courage to go into these projects, it's great content!💯💯

I'd just put a motor in it. It might actually be easier if the motor and trans did drop out the bottom since you have a lift. No engine hoist required, just lift up the car drop the motor out the bottom.

NICE try really...Ur doing great. Keep it up! Love ur videos

Another great video from you. Going to agree with most on here and say pull the motor and put in a new one. Keep up the great content

Since your going to scrap the engine. How about trying maybe a brass punch through the spark plug holes tapping on the piston. Or take your compression tester and adapt a hose fitting on it and apply air to possible force the marvel mistery oil through the rings, and maybe tap on another piston at the same time. Just a couple ideas for ya Randy keep the videos coming.

Spray a ton of penetrating oil inside the cylinders overnight through the spark plug holes for a few days. Try moving it again back & forth a little at a time. It should free it up. I got my aunt's 04 lancer freed up and running two years ago and it still works.

Randy , you're working hard . doing everything yourself . Not getting enough rest you're dead on your feet . Dude you need to take a fishing trip get some time alone away from it all . Some time alone with lady , just enough to recharge yourself . You're a good guy . None of this means anything if you're not a part of it . You recently got over the flu , it really knocked you for loop . Take care of yourself . REMEMBER THERE IS NO AUTO REBUILDS , WITHOUT OUR MAIN MAN RANDY .

GOOD JOB RANDY NICE TO SEE YOU WORKING ON CARS WOULD BE NICE TO SEE PUTTING ANOTHER ENGINE IN. GOOD VIDEO THANKS

One ,thing may help,on the crank ,I used a monster pipe wrench,,,yes monster 72 inch ,wrap towel on it and use pipe wrench or pipe strap wrench. Doing good job,,,ty

Oil pump assembly with balancer?

I have a 2016 dart thanks for the video now I know about the starter. That is so dumb on dodge but the engine in the dart is call the tiger shark and it's built by Fiat

Today's video, we had 4 "lady's and gentlemen" and 2 "folks" 😂

Dude , I hate being a mother hen . But I like you . And I have seen how people work so hard to make their dream come they neglect themselves . I like what put out it's all good . Just a regular trying to make something for himself . Your channel is informative and fun . I wouldn't want it to end because you got sick .

Never give up so fast. If you don't see anything that causes the motor won't turn you need to check the motor head as well. If it still stuck well you can go ahead and start looking another engine and be sure its the same year and type also it has to be compatible with the ECU.

It will be easier to drop the whole engine through the bottom just loosen the engine cratleand drop it no need for engine hoist

Holy cow! That's nasty! Didn't expect that! Maybe it's an April fool's joke?!? Lol

Yes! An update video. I have been checking for vids on the dart for a couple of days now, I am dying to see this thing run!

Get a can or two of "Deep Creep" and spray into the cylinders, put the breaker bar on the crank bolt and lower the car down to where a wooden block just touches the breaker bar to hold pressure..every hour or so lower the car just slightly. This is my secret to breaking loose a stuck motor.

Tow it around the block and when you are doing thirty put it in drive, that might work. All the best, Edgar

Hey randy use a welding torch it will help allot I’ve worked on flood cars

I know this is late but.. the sxt, gt (I own), and two other models use the 2.4L multi air engines. Multi air means it only has one cam for exhaust and a hydraulic pump mechanism for the intake. That's why it's such a monster of an oil pump. Also.. electronic can bus hell..

It was a nice try it was facinating to see a flooded engine like this could be usefull to others. And dont forget that maybe this content awers greenhorn copart buyers to buy a flooded car! You always said that flooded cars are the worst. Maybe now those guys understand it! Great effort!

The Dart, and her unloved sibling the 200, are basically Alfa Romeos, albeit, with a softer suspension.

Randy my friend, been with this channel for quite along time. here with you no matter which way it works out

*This Dart has the Fiat Viaggio 2.0 Liter DOHC 16-Valve VVT with indeed a BSM (balance shaft module).* This basically a balance shaft and oil pump in one. I know from working on Hyundai's that there are delete kits for with just a normal oil pump instead. This engine looks toast. Try to find another one. But it could be that the ECU has to be flashed because most new fiats do have engine recognition. Good luck Randy, hopefully, it goes for good cash!

Should have put diesel fuel mixed with a little transmission fluid into each cylinder rather than the Marvel . Then let it sit for a week or two. Bet you could have gently worked it and got it to turn. Engine needs a full tear down now after messing with the bearing caps.

Thanks for showing me where the starter is!

Good stuff! Love to see Randy tear down things. Want to see that engine being rebuilt

Another great video. I really like the direction that your channel is going. Keep doing these and the Copart walk arounds. This is quickly becoming my favorite channel. That said, replace the engine. The valves likely closed with water in it and the damage is probably far more extensive than worth trying to repair. But, would be fun to see the engine torn down once you get the replacement in.

Thats why i got a 98 lincoln town car because i like old cars too instead of news ones

This guy really knows his stuff

i had a car that sat for a while..had some rust around rings..had to put some evapo rust in spark plug openings let it sit a day or two and it freed up...change oil after..

Your videos are better than most of the videos on RU-vid Thanks

9:26 That sound also goes with 'Don't fear the reaper.'

Randy, I wanted to see you take out the bottom end and do what you said yet to be honest....what you should have done after you took off the pan....clean up the peanut butter, resealed the pan, filled the bottom crank case with mystery oil also add something that breaks up water/doesnt hurt bearings ....then let it sit for 2 to 3 weeks trying to turn the flywheel bolt twice a week. Working with flood cars you have to be patient; you cant rush those. Also as you know by now if it aint a Dodge truck stay away from Dodge save the sport cars. Side note those Kia mini suvs the ladies love those! Also keep up the good work..your channel is getting more interesting!

not to self... NEVER buy a dodge dart. great video! keep it up. and thank you for acknowledging that we prefer the work ON camera. it shows you are listening. as does your content. i have a similar cheater bar. i went to home depot and bought a 10ft conduit pipe. had them cut it in half, one in half again, and one in half again. so now i have a 5ft, 2.5 ft, and 2- 1.25ft or 15 inch pipes. i believe the diameter is 1 1/2inch (maybe 1 3/4, when in doubt go a bit bigger, but if too wide it will slip off your regular wrenches) and cost less than $10. i mostly use the 2.5ft one, but have used the 5ft on occasion. i suspect that if you buy a long enough cheater bar, you can either break that loose, or shear off the breaker bar. but somethings gotta give. ;-) other than my stubbys, these have fit over every wrench i have used. i would absolutely LOVE to see what happens if you were to put a 10ft cheater on there. :-D

Great video despite the negative results. You've more than accommodated the haters with the excessive wrenching on this Dart. I was stressing with every ratchet turn with you. Stay positive. You'll "git 'er done".....lol.

Randy & Tim good TRY !! I would take a guess ! Someone has did a start up with all that water & the engine has seized . I think the car has been submerged & have you ran a vehicle report ! Would be cool content to see what actually happened to it . My guess Texas hurricane car 🌀 Salute guys took it further then I would have 😎

Hey Randy, loved your video. Sorry your engine is shot. When you get a new one in, that will be a nice car for Weird Beard to sell. Take care and have an awesome day.

It's racetrack lighting. My woman's dart is Rallye trim and it has it. She had the dealer add hers on though.

The leaking from the starter motor is the resin that covers/insulates the windings in the motor. With a seized engine the starter motor will instantly overheat and melt the resin off the windings. Even if the starter motor still spins with power applied to it it's performance is compromised and should not be used. If you go near a motor/transformer factory you'd smell ( it stinks ) motor resin.

This was a great one. Interesting to see what problems you have to deal with to get this working.

That was the oil pump, named as balanced pump, common in diesels engines like the Vw Passat 2.0 TDI

Awesome video. Love your work. Trying your best to fix whatever the problem is. Learning a lot of car knowledge.

I'm not gonna lie this was pretty entertaining.

what about taking the motor out of the sebring an put it in the dart?

I really thought you would get this motor freed up great video thanks for all your hard work. I enjoy all your videos I learn a lot from you and You keep it real

The engine and transmission have to be dropped from the bottom since it would be a lot easier for this car, the transmission is a must come off first before the engine can be taken out unless you can support and remove all mounts and hoses then lower it down safely. I’m doing the clutch on my 2014 dart gt 2.4(same engine as yours but manual) at the end of week! Lmk if you need any info on your car !

Take that BFH and a drift punch and rap the rod cap bolts a few whacks. The jolt may free up the pistons

Randy I can honestly say this if that 2013 Dodge Dart sxt has a clean title and you were able to get it up and running you would make awesome profits just to give you a heads up

Good point about starter location. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!!!

Hey what about putting the engine out of the sebring and putting it in the dart. Keep up the great work thanks for the content

Chrysler has been doing those balance shafts in the oil since the late 90s

You're learning as you go.

Put it back together put diesel in each cylinder and every 2 hours try pry it then leave it over night just keep filling it up with diesel , if that doesn't work just drop the engine from underneath will be easier but I reckon the diesel should free it up as it worked the last few engine I did

It's called a balance shaft module. It houses the balance shafts and the oil pump in one unit. It dampens the vibrations inherent in 4cyl engines.

that orange oil filter says it all "PAY ME NOW OR PAY ME LATER". In this case it's both and these are throw away cars so when do you throw it away. Chrysler products are very nice looking cars but their like a pretty woman and will break your heart sooner or later. Glad you decided to tear it apart so we can see what's in there and hope you will go farther and show us the real problem. Keep your head up

The days of "bumping" the starter are over, on some newer cars especially cars with remote start the ecm controls how long the starter is engaged, the starter will run until the engine starts. If the engine is seized even when bumping the key the starter will engage for several seconds regardless of key position (start/run) to attempt to start the engine, hence the smoking starter.

It was hydra locked with water and Oil .you should try and turn the crank now see if its free now.

Keep on keeping on! Good show. Thanks! Be careful with that crankshaft bolt.

An old trick to unwise an engine is to pou coca cola into the cylinders until it eats the rust

Starter engaged would not prevent engine from turning over. I think you'll find a broken jammed connecting rod. good luck

I was only saying if you can pull off the head maybe it's got rustlock, once the head gets pulled it will run after cleaning it up god bless

I have that same ratchet, it’s awesome!

That's the smell of success!

Hydrolocked cyllinders full of water when running valves closed locking up engine the engine will need total tare down and rebuild !!!!!

Go ahead and get you a parts cleaner from harbor freight, more than worth the cost

Engine swap bro! I know it’s a disappointment But let’s see it. Content baby!

Great video! I feel bad that this happening, but it's a great following along with you on this tear down.

As mentioned below, balance shaft module. Go get yourself a junkyard motor, not worth trying to save that one!

you still have to get the engine to turn to get the converter bolts out.

That is a fluxcapacitor. Lmao

Time to dump that engine like a hot potato, get you a V-8 junk yard motor like a 5.7L Chevy - like Cletus's, and make you a drag car, Randy. My .02 :D

You're probably never going to buy another flood car without checking to see if the engine is seized but, you put the wrong thing in the cylinders. You should have put something like PB Blaster in and let it soak for about 24 hours. After that, you should have put a long extension in each cylinder and tapped on each piston to break the rust loose from the rings. That would have probably freed it up enough to turn it over with the starter.

You have a good 2.4 engine with a partly disabled front end.

Thanks randy. Loved this video!! Keep up the hard work !!

Beats the oil pan with a sledge hammer instead of just using a pry bar. Watching people work on cars that don’t actually work on cars is kinda hard.

After looking at this complex modern Dart, I think I will keep my 1966. Never had to replace it, but the slant six starter motor has to be the most easiest.

RANDY GO BUY A GALLON OF PB BLASTER + SEAFOAM TO REGULATE THE BLASTER FILL IT UP LET IT SIT FOR A DAY AND IT WILL FREE THAT MOTOR

I once bought a Dodge Intrepid that wound up having a seized up motor, we took the spark plugs out and sprayed WD 40 into the spark plug holes, we let it set over night and put the plugs back in.it broke free and started up. The only thing we didn't catch is that the oil pumps on 2.7 engines are a bad design, don't buy them.

Where is Scottie when you need him lol

And with motor locked will be necessary to yank motor and trans out together and very fun to get torque bolts out unless it's stick

You might have to bye the bullet and get both the engine and transmission rebuiltall the best, Edgar

You talk about over engineering, Dodge you gotta love em !

Really sorry it's turning out to be such a pain in the you know what Randy but it is at least good ,interesting content,keep up the good work ,I really hope things start to improve for you. Good Luck

Those are the balance shafts. You probably can't get to all of the rod bearing caps without taking off the secondary oil pan. Would be the aluminum bottom half if you will.