Send in your Power Supply For Repair: nickselectronics.com/products/un75h7150afxza Fix it yourself with our kit: nickselectronics.com/products/samsung-bn44-00725a-power-supply-parts-kit
Good to see someone that has EXPERIENCE doing the work! The only thing I would have done differently would be to wait on soldering the heatsink until I powered up the unit. If it immediately blew out the transistors again due to some other fault it would be much easier to replace them.
Yeah that's a good point! I always tell people not to put the back cover on the TV before powering on the set because if they made a mistake and forgot to plug in a wire or didn't plug a ribbon in correctly they have to take everything apart again. Same principle.
Thank you for your kind comment! Been doing it for 10 years ish now. I don't solder nearly as much as I used to at first now that I have 7 employees, but I still love picking up the iron and repairing stuff.
@@NicksTVRepair Your 'Desolder Pump' is marketed as 'SOLDAPULLT'. /// The name “SOLDAPULLT” is a clever play on words combining “solder” and “catapult.” This reflects the tool’s function: it uses a spring-loaded mechanism to “catapult” or pull away solder during desoldering processes. Guys who do a lot of on the bench work gravitate towards hollow tipped desoldering stations... but I still use this Soldapullt tool because it's 2nd nature and I don't do that much board work anymore. Heck... 2 for $10 on Amazon is better than $1000 plus for a station...
Yeah we have a desolder station but indeed I only use it if I have to do a lot of desoldering. This I don't consider to be a lot, so ill use the pump. I like it better, it's simpler.
Phenomenal! My Samsung TV has no standby light. Checked the plug fuse and have limited knowledge beyond this. However, I did open up and disconnect the cable between the two boards. I still have no back light. I am now tempted to replace the Power Supply Board. Is this a reasonable course of action?
What is the model number of your TV? It sure does sound like a power supply failure. We can probably fix it for cheaper than a replacement, however and even more importantly, having the board fixed will probably last longer than buying a used one. The reason I say this is because we replace the defective parts with higher quality than factory so the failure never reoccurs. This ensures that our repaired board lasts longer than a brand new one would.
@@NicksTVRepairthanks for the response. I have a samsung ue65nu8000T. I would have preferred a repair through yourselves but have now ordered a replacement board. I came across your video since then. Do you also repair the main boards? If the replacement doesn’t fix the issue, can I ship both to you for repair/inspection please?
That was fascinating to see! I can design and create PCBs to get working, but I would suck trying to understand other people's boards! I'd literally be lost knowing where to even look. So this was awesome.
I have repaired a 60 inch Samsung motherboard. I baked it in the oven for 15 minutes. By the way I see the boards don't really cost all that much. But can be fun to fix them if you have the time. Great repair by the way.
I would be careful with the oven baking, it's easy to make them irreparable. But as you said as long as there are replacements available for cheap, why not give it a try and yes indeed repairing stuff is very fun!
That was great! I've always been interested in electrical engineering. These videos make me wish I had pursued it. Feels so good bringing life back to equipment that requires dollars worth of replacement parts and some time.
I really enjoyed watching this I am in the UK and we get a couple of electronic repair people on you tube and i do watch them simply because I had a stroke and lost some of my memory which is terrible when you are trying to repair something and for get how to test them I am also a Radio ham so it is vital i get that memory back ,thanks for the Video
Hello sir . That was a great work done , I really admire your workshop and study repair factor. Please kindly show the number display on the MOSFET so that we will also know more. Thank you sir.
Thank you very much! The solder I use is leaded and has flux in it, that could be why it looks like low melt. It's not technically low melt but it flows way better than none leaded that's for sure. This is a link to it if you want to buy the same: amzn.to/4cMy6jv
Vielen dank, ich werde das gegebenenfalls mit dem nächsten Fernseher oder generell einem elektroartikel einmal probieren... Bin komplett neu in der materie, fange gerade erst mit Tutorials an wie man Elektronik durchmisst
Yeah we have one and have done several videos with it in the past. Its pretty good, but does require a lot of maintenance. Definitely can't use flux with it or it will for sure clog up.
Great Video thank you for sharing your knowledge with us and saving this board's and tv's from going to the land field im a Diy love to fix electronics still have ways to go in learning but i learn a lot from people like you that share their knowledge with us Thank you Nick
My samsung tv UN55MU6290F toast after lightning, power light comes on, but power button or remote control wont work tuvturn it on. Any idea what could be and how much would it cost to fix it. Houston, Tx.
The fault you are experiencing is likely a mainboard failure and not power supply as most people believe is the case with a lightning strike. We charge this much to fix the mainboard: nickselectronics.com/products/bn94-12662z
Hello, i have subcribed and liked and below, I have a couple of questions. How are you able to tell what pins to test in beep mode. How do you know the orientation of the transistor/diode. How can you identify a component as a diode,transistor(npn,pnp)
So the easy way to identify the components without having to look up data sheets every time is by their ID location. If the ID location of a component starts with the letter D then it's a diode. If it's a Q then it's a transistor. L for inductor, F for fuse, R for resistor, and C is for capacitor. Those are the most common ones. As for NPN or PNP transistors, it won't matter in terms of testing, none of the legs are supposed to be shorted to one another. So if you detect a short then most likely that transistor is bad. However, sometimes the circuit can be designed that way so it's always good to recheck them once they are out of the circuit to confirm A the part you removed is shorted, and B that the short is no longer present in the circuit. Had I only removed the 1 shorted transistor and not the diode, I would have still detected a short in the circuit even after removing the shorted transistor. Makes sense?
This is all very nice but how did you know to go to those components? Whee is the schematic for this board which would identify the parts what they do and expected voltages to check? With out this stuff this is just a glorified soldering lesson, something I can do well already.
There is actually flux imbeded in the solder we use. Flux is there to help if you don't have good solder flow. I feel like I had good solder flow, and didn't need to use more than what was already in the imbeded in the solder.
Nick I have a background in an Electronics but I have been in a coma and paralyzed years ago I need a refresher course if capacitors read o l on the ohms meter are they bad my church soundboard went out and I'm trying to fix it. I'm a computer nut I'm trying to get organized . Any help or advice for the helpful to me but you can see by my name I'm not a quitter.
Hello, To properly test a capacitor you should use an ESR meter and capacitance meter. I do exactly that in this video linked below that I published just last weekend: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yW7qUYb1hI0.htmlsi=kwCxe0lQ3Sekowc2
Nice video, but i do have a question, what is the most likely culprit to cause a ceramic cap to go pop? The tv showed no signs of life, then when plugging in to another socket it killed a cap
Yeah everyone is saying that in the comments, but the thing is that it really wasn't that close. I know it looks like it could be due to the camera angle, but if you had a different angle from the side you would realize there was at least 2 inches of space between my arm and the board.
We have the FR301 as well as the solder sucker and desolder wick. The FR301 can be more convenient but only when I have to do a lot of desoldering in one go. It takes a bit of time to get up to temp, it requires maintenance and routine cleaning and stays super hot for super long which means you have to go put it far away so no one accidentally burns themselves when you are done with it. It can just be a hassle so if I only have 3 components with few legs to desolder it doesn't make sense for me to use it. I would rather just use the desolder pump and wick. If I have a through hole IC with 32 pins then sure ill bust it out.
How did you know the "transistor" in the middle was not a transistor but a diode? Did you look it up have a schematic or were there symbols on the board?
Each component has a location ID next to it. It's small text printed on the circuit board. The location ID starts with a letters then numbers. The letters tell you the type of component it is. A diode starts with a D, a transistor starts with a Q, a resistor with an R, a fuse with an F, and IC chips start with the letters IC. So it doesn't tell you much more in depth info as to what kind of diode it is but at least I know it's a diode.
I actually have been thinking about putting a few videos together and putting up a soldering course. I don't know if I will be doing a troubleshooting course but maybe in the future.
I have a samsung 43 inch set great picture its 5 months old but bad audio raspy sound samsung has a crap warranty service. There just playing me I'm going to bring legal action what's your opinion?
Hey Nick, I just had the same problem just a few days ago with my 65 inch Samsung tv, but I tried the trick unplugging the power cord and holding the power button on the tv and it worked but then I faced another set of problems lol. With the tv cutting on and off, the 4K settings I had on the tv had been reset and so I tried the Mute 182 secret reset and that worked but as I was scrolling across the options I accidentally clicked on an HDR Calibration option. First it read “Wait” then “Failure”. A square appeared in the top middle of the tv and afterwards the picture got darker and continued to get darker. I’ve tried adjusting the brightness, two factory resets, and I keep the HDR on Dynamic and the screen is still dark. It’s difficult to watch anything because of how dark the color is now. Any tips on how to fix this type of weird problem?
I am very sorry to hear this, but I can't help you. As mentioned in that reset video it is very important you do not change any of the other settings because this will happen. Your best bet is to try and undo what you did, but if you can't, the alternative is to replace the mainboard.
I have never shocked my self on a live set while it's plugged in, but I have shocked my self on a power supply disconnected from power that still had plenty of juice, and boy that wakes you up. I wouldn't recommend.
So we actually almost never see capacitors fail on LED power supply boards. That was a common issue on plasma and LCD models however. Now with that said of course there are always exceptions, there are a few specific power supplies for which we see ceramic caps go bad but for this unit I have never encountered that. That's why we don't typically check them for this model power supply.
100eur desoldering station with vacuum pump is 100000x better than those spring pumps, they are a bit fiddly and may need small tweaks and fixes to work well, mine had a problem with seal behind the heater, but overall performance is so much better than the handheld pump it isn't as useful for these single sided boards, but for multilayer there really is no comparison
We have 2 FR-301 desolder pump/iron in the shop, they are pretty good for tougher jobs, but I wouldn't say it's 1,000 times better. The none electric desoldering pump I used in this video does also do the job well. The joints with those crowns are typically a bit tougher though and require the use of desolder wick. I probably could have gotten the solder off those tougher joints faster with the desoldering iron/pump but I don't know I also like the manual pump. I usually only use the FR-301 if it's a lot of joints like say some of the 18 throughole pin IC's or displays we replace for the oven control boards. This wasn't very many pins to desolder and only a couple were the tougher kind.
Thank you and good question. The reason I didn't re-apply after is because it's an extra step that I don't see making any positive difference to the functionality of the circuit board. I saw these coming in after a few years of manufacturing, and I have not added new silicone after repairs and have seen my repairs outlast the original PCB's life time. Why is it there in the first place? I don't know the answer for sure, but I have been told that it helps reduce vibration. What does that do and how does that affect the circuit board? again I don't know. I would love to know the reason, but from my perspective right now, my repairs last just as long if not longer than the original PCB did after manufacturing so I don't see the advantage of adding silicone to the legs other than adding an extra step to the repair process.
I have an LG C1 65 inch TV that will not turn on after going into stand by mode. Only way to start the tv is turn it off from the wall for 5min and then within 10seconds from turning on, i have to turn it on with the remote. As soon as the red stand by light turns off it will not turn on via remote. Is this a Power Supply Problem?
Based on past experiences that sounds more like a mainboard failure than power supply. If the power supply was bad the set would most likely be dead 100% of the time.
@@NicksTVRepair Electronics Repair School channel. BTW - you do a great clear and concise job in a 9 minute video. Doesn't get much simpler and easier.
Lol, if I get shocked while recording I'll keep it in. But I have not yet gotten shocked on a live board that is plugged in. So far it's only been while the board is unplugged but still charged and I forget it's still charged and or it stayed charged for way longer than it should have or that I thought it would. That has happened dozens of times.
That's right! :) We have 3 repair channels. I do the TV repair and random electronics channels, and my tech Juan does all the Xbox, and other video game console related repair videos.
The old solder will have a layer of oxidation or impurities on top making it hard for the heat to transfer from the iron tip to the solder itself. By adding new solder you make it easier to transfer that heat. It helps with better flow. + my new solder has flux in it so that also makes it easier to flow.
Ok, a few thoughts from me, take them or leave them. Firstly, get yourself a desoldering gun. They are cheap and reliable these days. You'll never look back. Secondly, IMHO it looked like you were way to close with your uncovered arms to those high voltage components while testing the live board. 390VDC will end you very quickly. There are no second chances with those voltages. Don't ever reach across a live circuit board like that. Always work around the edges with your arms above the table, not the board.
I have a desoldering gun, but most people don't, so it's best to show how to do the job with tools people have access to. + It's more fun in my opinion to use the manual pump and wick. As for the voltage, I appreciate your concern, the angles shown are the worst perspective to be able to see how close or far my arm was to the board. As mentioned in another comment, I have never shocked myself on a live board in 10 years. Only on non-live boards that are disconnected from power but still are holding a charge. And yes they bite haha.
We have the FR301 but I typically only use it when there are a lot of parts to desolder or if it's an IC chip with a lot of legs. This is very little desoldering, didn't feel like it was worth the hassle to use the desoldering gun.
Use diode mode to test diodes and transistors, not ohm-mode🤦 You can test the N-FET body diode with positive to source (pin 3, right) negative to drain (pin 2, middle). And you can even test if it turns on: negative to source, touch positive to gate (pin1, left), now positive to drain should show short until you discharge the gate by shorting it to one of the other pins.
Once you get better at fixing things and you understand what your meter is doing when it's in diode mode VS resistance and how it behaves when things are good VS defective and you then understand that you can actually use it interchangeably. I could have used the meter in diode mode to test the transistor and could have told you if it was good or bad. I can also use the meter in resistance to test the diode. Heck I could use the diode mode to test a fuse or resistors (depending on the resistance) and tell you if they are good or not. Just have to know what to expect.
@@NicksTVRepair Sure, you can use the ohm mode on a diode, but what does that tell you about it? In diode mode you can see the voltage drop which differs for diode types (schottky, fast recovery etc). There's no spec for megaohms of a diode. Also some multimeters don't show anything for a diode in ohm range. Use the proper tool for the job. For mosfets I always test the body diode. I didn't see you do that. Also test if they turn on. Did you know you can turn on a mosfet with your multimeter in diode mode like I explained?
@@NicksTVRepair your all video very good every times watching something new to learning thanks for sharing knowledge almighty bless you more knowledge health n wealth.
Thank you, I appreciate that! These videos are also self serving, this is how we get word out that we fix a lot of these things so it gets us more business.
Thank you! Yeah im finally getting over it a week later. I think I recorded this one on Monday or tuesday. Still feeling a few of the effects still but should be back to 100% in a day or two.
