Thanks Bob- another great video. You strike a great balance between enough detail to give depth and spark interest without going too deep for folks who prefer to go to West Marine for their metalwork outfitting.
Glad to have you back Bob. Building boats is a pretty intense project and adding video editing more than doubles the stress and complexity so take the time you need to spend with your family and recharge your batteries. Excellent presentation of the general process of casting. Thank you and have a good week ahead.
I’ve been watching your videos for at least an hour straight and cannot get enough! One of the best channels on youtube. 😊 You mention that your cleat mold is to final dimension, but I’ve read that molds are usually oversize due to shrinkage. Have you found that not to be the case?
Yes, bronze does shrink about 2.5%. If one was making a part where tolerances are tight shrinkage should be a consideration. In the case of the bronze parts for the boat it really doesn't matter.
Outstanding video Bob, glad to see you back again. One thing I take from these videos is as much as you think you need to hurry when casting you really can take your time and do things smoothly and safely. Those cleats look great even in the raw.
Happy New Year and a big Thank You for your detailed showing of the casting prozess. Recently in my house I found a wooden box with a lot of those spoon and/or trowel like tools together with some brushes with very fine hair and even a needle like the welding rod you used for the small vents. I was told by my mother in law that this is the box my father in law had when he was learning the profession of a "Former", that was the german word for the mold builder back in the early 1950s. (It was a profession you could learn from 1935 to 1997 in Germany. Before and after this part was included in other job descriptions.) Later he advanced to the manager of the foundry in my home town, so I could meet his daughter in the 1980s. Even if I got to see the foundry on a open day, I never got a insight into the trade this detailed. And now I can at least imagine how those tools in the box were used. Thank You again for your informative and great videos.
Glad to see how importance you give in following good practices in installing your process equipment. I’m referring to the proper distance your exhaust duct goes above ceiling line and thus allowing dust fumes to be properly dispersed In the environmental.
Thank you Bob for the good old memories of high school, my school had a foundry and machine shop in it . I remember setting a aluminum pheasant and pouring that thing like 15 times to get it prefect for a fathers day gift. Had no thought of those times in a long time. Thanks again.
Beautifully and masterfully done. Also very well explained with a great vocabulary lesson. You, sir, are a teacher as well as an accomplished artist. I love this channel. Other channels may be building bigger boats over much longer periods of time, but you teach us more detailed lessons. It is the combination of channels that is furthering my education, for sure. "Tips from a Shipwtight", "Acorn to Arabella", "Tally-Ho", "Salt and Tar", and you, sir, are the main channels I watch, but there are others on building and sailing, as well as timber framing, welding, and automotive that I watch that encourage me to believe that if I am ever in the financial situation to take on such a task, that I too could tackle a boat of my own. Thanks for the inspiration and lessons.
Hi Bob thank you for your great video. I learnt so much not just technically but observing you deliberate calm approach showed me patience in a process.
I wonder if we all did that in HS back in the way-back machine. We did aluminum, which is a much easier metal to use (cheaper, too) but it was realy enjoyable to learn the process.
Welcome back amd Happy New Year. The organization of the foundry area are much better now, no more stepping over gas hoses and tools. And btw. Thanks you for the very detailed explanations.
Bob, have you considered getting a PAPR like the 3M Versaflo? The constant breeze across the inside of the hood really helps with heat not to mention the fantastic filtration!
Thanks for the video, Bob! I have never cast anything but I feel I got the essentials now. Just an idea: you could add two vertical guides and some small pieces to the bottom of the venting splitted tube so the wood could fit and get rit of the clamps. 😁
Hey Bob, it sounds like the manifold connection may solve your propane bottle chilling issues, but here are a couple other ideas if it isn’t a 100% solution. Both involve safe ways to warm the bottles, and can be used in combination with the manifold. The first way is just to aim a decent fan at the bottles, warming them with room temperature air. People tend to think of fans as cooling devices, so have trouble seeing how this works. Moving air really increases heat transfer, hence the concept of wind chill, or convection (poorly named) ovens. Another thing you can do is place the bottles in a tub of water. It needn’t be hot, but starting out lukewarm is helpful. The evaporation of the propane is then trying to freeze the water, so the water is transferring it’s latent heat of crystallization to the propane. Again this confuses people, because you are using freezing water as a heat source. This will keep the bottles at 32F where propane still has decent vapor pressure of 50-60 psi. You may need to occasionally scrape the ice off the bottles with a spatula. Finally, you said you have a 150 btu burner, which just can’t be right. 150 btu/hr. Is a largish pilot light. 150btu/minute is still too small to ice a 20lb bottle. Seeing that burner in the background, it looks similar to 80,000 btu/hr, units I have seen for sale. If it is 150,000 btu/hr, then no wonder your bottles are icing!
Interesting process. A couple questions: When you scrape off the dross and put it on the floor, what happens to it after? Do you end up splattering bronze on the floor that would solidify and stay on the floor? In the case of the studio at the university, after scraping off the dross you bang the tool on the steel grate. Isn't there a build-up of solidified bronze and dross on the tools, on the grate, and below the grate? Also, when you scrape the crucible at the end, what happens to the bronze that you can't scrape out? Once it cools off, it's stuck there.
Hi Charles, The dross is just junk and is discarded. Scraping carefully there is very little bronze. If there is it tends to solidify on the steel scraper. So no to bronze on the floor and yes on the tool, which can be easily removed in the next pouring by heating the scraper. The scraping of the crucible is to remove bronze from it. Not good for the crucible to have large deposits of bronze in it as it cools. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching! Bob
Hi Ross, I don't see a need for a core as of yet, according to the plans. If I do make a core it will be as you suggested using. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
I greatly enjoy your very well done videos, Bob. For the propane you mentioned 130 Btu. I am somewhat familiar with small temporary heaters,. The ones I have run from 19,000 Btu up to 250,000. Did you mean 130K? Or not.
Познавательно и доступно для начинающих! Скажите а какое соотношение песка и глины бентонитовой ? Используете ли флюс на основе фосфористой меди? С баллонами я поступаю проще нагреваю их в процессе плавки электронагревателем
Just catching up here via Acorn-, does the math work the same for the passages if a different metal is used, say aluminum. I thinking differing surface tensions.
Great video Bob... I wonder about the vent solution... wow well did it work? The reason I ask is that it is quite long/high and has a couple 90-degree elbows (I think 4?) so that I could imagine that it won't draft well until it heats up substantially, which could be a long time. I am wondering if you may benefit from putting a larger reducing adapter (or a second larger one) to ensure more of the hot gasses go up the flue rather then go around the flue into the space or if you might need to put a small fan on it to ensure that you aren't getting a cold stack impact on the exhaust flue effectiveness.
Thanks for your comment. It is working well. The furnace heats the flue up quite quickly. So much so that within just a few minutes it to hot to touch with out a welding glove on. The idea of a fan has occurred to me, I when as far as pricing one. My thought was that I'd see how it did as is. I'm very pleased with its performance. Still might add a fan if I switch to natural gas. Thanks again for your thoughtful comment and watch! Cheers, Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Bob, I've really enjoyed watching your boat building and tool making videos for the last few years. Always worth the time to sit and watch. After this boat, can I suggest a dragon-class racer? Now that is a boat that I would especially love to build myself...
Bob, appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I have the same problem with a 20lb propane tank freezing up in the winter while running my forge. Do you think wrapping an electric heating blanket around the tank would be effective (and safe)?
I'm very happy with my manifold set up. I've done several more firings since the video. I can report that the tanks did not freeze in the over one hour melt time. I consulted a propane expert near me and followed his recommendations. He did not mention heating the tank. I have hear of folks doing that. However, if I where you find and expert and get their recommendation.
@@gumbykevbo Thanks Mr. Kevbo, I just read your suggestions. The fans won't work for me because I am in an unheated and uninsulated shop so my room temperature is pretty much outdoor temp. Also quite a distance from a water source. The water container did seem to work when I was forging from the insulated, nonheated garage attached to the house in the olden days.
I did not mix my own sand. I purchased it as the sand is much finer that play sand that most use. www.greendiamondpm.com/foundry-products Thanks for watching!
