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Sanforized vs Unsanforized vs Raw Jeans | Is One Really Better? 

Stridewise
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Full article: stridewise.com/sanforized-vs-...
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Want to have a really, crazily in-depth understanding of denim? Then Mohsin Sajid is the man to help. A historian, professor, designer, videographer, and consultant on everything related to the most popular pants on earth, Mohsin was gracious enough to host me and explain some of the trickier terms floating around selvedge land.
00:00 Who is Mohsin Sajid?
00:30 What is sanforized denim?
01:40 Skewing and sanforizing
02:05 What is the sanforization process?
03:38 Different kinds of sanforization
04:48 Sanforized vs washing vs raw
06:27 Why choose unsanforized denim?
07:45 A look at Real McCoy's leg twist
09:30 Unsanforized jeans and sizing
10:57 Wrapping up
#selvedgedenim #heritagefashion #rawdenim

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1 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 77   
@NakedandFamousDenim
@NakedandFamousDenim 2 года назад
Great to see you linked up with Moshin, he is truly one of the gems of the denim world!
@SSDD_NYC
@SSDD_NYC Год назад
Moshin was the reason I fell in love with denim and eventually found and fell in love with N&F!
@edf2953
@edf2953 2 года назад
Very interesting video Nick. I had no idea what the difference is between sanforized vs. unsanforized Jeans. I really like the way you managed the interview to keep everything flowing and to explain to us the differences in the processes. Good job…Ed
@LeadLeftLeon
@LeadLeftLeon 2 года назад
Would love to see a future video on the OVERDYE process. Been around forever but still mysterious
@ericiidx
@ericiidx Год назад
I still consider "one wash" models of jeans to be raw in the stylistic sense, in the same way that my raw denim doesn't become "un-raw" the first time I personally wash them. A number of brands I'm familiar with will put the jeans through a hot wash and hang them to dry, creases/wrinkles and all, with no extra processing. I think it's a great choice for someone wanting to buy a pair of otherwise-unsanforized jeans but not wanting to work out the shrinkage, whether it's their first pair or their fiftieth.
@arielguzman9336
@arielguzman9336 2 месяца назад
Weird how your suppose to buy them raw to your size and never wash or get them big and immediately soak or else they don’t fit
@brunonjezic6208
@brunonjezic6208 2 года назад
Perfect. Just a video i needed to understand better this stuff
@Phlegm_Thrower
@Phlegm_Thrower 2 года назад
Oooooooh... I've always wondered why some of my clothings have twisted seams. I thought they might've cut it wrong or something. lol You learn something new everyday.
@1979augistine
@1979augistine 2 года назад
Yes , yes and yes I just took up sewing leather and denim and tried making a shirt and wow it definitely has my interest. This is awesome to see ,huge thanks for the awesome video !
@nrttra007
@nrttra007 Год назад
Great video. Very informative
@davidmun1601
@davidmun1601 2 года назад
Thank you. Very educational.
@MrNegroni
@MrNegroni 2 года назад
Great video, really interesting.
@lukehendrickson3669
@lukehendrickson3669 2 года назад
I'm all about sanforized denim (both my IH-634-XHS and IH-634S) and some is even one-washed (IH-634S). Less hassle and more enjoyment IMO.
@brunonjezic6208
@brunonjezic6208 2 года назад
I hope there will be part 2 with him. He could make so much stuff clearer for the world of denim. Im still wondering what is starch for in the denim and is it good or not. How does it influence "the rawnes" of things
@uncannyfox
@uncannyfox 2 года назад
From what I understand, the starch is simply there to make the fabric easier to work with when they are making the jeans. But then again, I remember my Grandpa starching all of his trousers right before he had my Grandma iron them, so maybe there's something more to it.
@RLSteffler
@RLSteffler 7 месяцев назад
Starch gives structure to a fabric, that's why you would spray trousers before pressing them, to help them hold a crisp crease down the leg. It increases the stiffness so with denim most people would find it less comfortable, but that creates more creasing which is great for cool fades! To get rid of most of the starch you can do a lukewarm soak, or if you like more fades you can even respray them with starch after each wash.
@LeadLeftLeon
@LeadLeftLeon 2 года назад
What I was taught. Expect dimensions to shrink by about 3% if the jeans are untreated. Up to 1% if it preshrunk
@naughtmeinam4603
@naughtmeinam4603 2 года назад
Man, after that explanation and lack thereof, I think I'll be steering clear of unsanforized forever
@hungryalien
@hungryalien Год назад
haha but its something that all denimheads should experience at least once hehe
@justinschmidtke9412
@justinschmidtke9412 2 года назад
Really had to squeeze the definition and description of sanforizing out of him. Thanks for not settling for the routine answer. I wonder why experts are always so reluctant to share it.
@ryancockrel6947
@ryancockrel6947 2 года назад
I think it's because it isn't just a single defined process. It's a family of slightly different processes that all aim to achieve the same end result of stabilizing the fabric before it is sewn into clothing. I believe that is what he was trying to communicate.
@Stridewise
@Stridewise 2 года назад
I think we just saw the usual gap between academia and media - he's trained in the former, which is about describing topics in as much length as possible, but this video is the latter - media - which is about concise and simple definitions. It's normal for academics and journalists/media folk to have trouble getting on the same wavelength haha
@jonlouis2582
@jonlouis2582 2 года назад
@@Stridewise Wow, good answer.
@AliceBowie
@AliceBowie Год назад
I tried to get into selvage 20 years ago. I did everything people told me. Even soaking them in warm water first day, and sleeping in them wet. They always shrunk into shorts and stained my legs blue. Eventually, I met a morroccan tailor who knew the real way to get denim that fit.
@sf2explus184
@sf2explus184 Год назад
i have been through many raw sanforized and unsanforized. I have yet to see a single sanforized denim shrink more than 1cm if that. with unsanforized i have always lost between 2-3 inches in length and 1 inch in the waist which stretched back by 1-1.5 inches but soaked with warm water in the bath tub.
@richyclubsport5155
@richyclubsport5155 Год назад
Learnt from bitter experience, sanforized is the best option, had to sell several expensive paris of denim's over the years on good old eBay, after soaking they shrunk. Breaking in a couple of pairs of new denims now, wearing alternative day's, Lee 101s, fantastic denim's and Iron Heart's 634 n in a 17 oz weight
@arielguzman9336
@arielguzman9336 2 месяца назад
Were they tight to begin with? I’m having trouble believing a simple soak would shrink em that much
@barrymitchell7732
@barrymitchell7732 2 года назад
Hello. I recently purchased a pair of White's perry mock toe. The problem is inside a flap folds down every time I put it on. I contacted them and they said I could send them back. But I purchased them to wear. I also explained several times that I never dad any problem with REDWINGS . Can you suggest what typ of glue to use on my new rubbish White's Boots?
@natewoods4566
@natewoods4566 Год назад
I get why people like the unsanforized look, but I can't imagine being so into it that I'm willing to take the risk of buying extremely expensive jeans without knowing how they will fit.
@LeadLeftLeon
@LeadLeftLeon 2 года назад
I always go sanforizied or one-washed given the option. No time to shrink it like some geek
@kotymccallister5150
@kotymccallister5150 Год назад
You'll get a better fit shrinking them
@Wilson_Kelly
@Wilson_Kelly 2 года назад
Nice music at the start
@Stridewise
@Stridewise 2 года назад
yeah it's stock music but it's my favorite stock music!!!
@fugehdehyou
@fugehdehyou 9 месяцев назад
Sanforized seems way easier tbh imagine you wash it and suddenly after Christmas your favourite jeans don’t fit. The idea of consistency is more appealing tbh
@fursanislamicclothing6962
@fursanislamicclothing6962 7 месяцев назад
If i WASH fabric / denim before sewing proces... Will it be sanforized denim?
@muhammadaliclay8976
@muhammadaliclay8976 2 года назад
mohsin bhai zindabad
@aznlemonboy
@aznlemonboy 2 года назад
which brand/model for the denim jacket?
@Stridewise
@Stridewise 2 года назад
Mine is Oni's! I'd just gotten it from son of a stag sonofastag.com/collections/oni/products/oni-02527zr-20oz-secret-denim-jacket
@Christian_Clothier
@Christian_Clothier Год назад
How much is slightly bigger??
@wtfmrb293
@wtfmrb293 Год назад
Haha stride. You look like me when having a math test lol epic
@kfung4
@kfung4 2 года назад
Great v
@colmcgillveray1010
@colmcgillveray1010 2 года назад
I have a pair of Sugar Canes 1946 with a fierce leg twist.
@alexsherel3344
@alexsherel3344 10 месяцев назад
This made everything sooooo clear…lol Jokes aside. Thanks
@Stridewise
@Stridewise 10 месяцев назад
Didn’t it!?!
@alexsherel3344
@alexsherel3344 10 месяцев назад
@@Stridewise jokes aside…yes, and the reason I watched this so soon after upload was, I just bought 2 pair of GS Pennys, 1 Loden suede, one CXL #8 so now im looking for jeans for going out. This helps. Now I have my starting point. Just sucks having to sift through vids and websites to find what I want at my price point. But just fyi, thanks. I’ve actually updated my wardrobe with those GS, TBC captains and vanguards, and some hackberry chinos. Your work is appreciated sooo much.
@Lgirtfhdzxfft
@Lgirtfhdzxfft 2 года назад
Why Nick seems so frustrated? 😂
@kit2770
@kit2770 2 года назад
I thought he said "sanfordized". I assumed we were talking about old episodes of "Sanford and Son". 📺
@Stridewise
@Stridewise 2 года назад
That's exactly what we were talking about Kit
@javiervallin488
@javiervallin488 Год назад
Bahahahaha 😂
@CC-kj4yc
@CC-kj4yc Год назад
What do you think of stretch jeans?
@Abdul-Amburadul
@Abdul-Amburadul Год назад
💩
@And-zo8jn
@And-zo8jn 2 года назад
Which jeans jacket are you wearing?
@Stridewise
@Stridewise 2 года назад
Oni secret! 20oz, this one www.sonofastag.com/collections/oni/products/oni-02527zr-20oz-secret-denim-jacket
@hydroaegis6658
@hydroaegis6658 2 года назад
Jeanheads will eventually just be buying bolts of fabric lmao.
@Stridewise
@Stridewise 2 года назад
hahahah
@L.C.Sweeney
@L.C.Sweeney 2 года назад
Less likely isn't a synonym of less.
@Hyytekk
@Hyytekk 2 года назад
Interesting. But while Moshin might be infinitely knowledgeable as you stated, he's not a good communicator. Kudos to you, Nick, for clarifying and sorting out the facts. You repeatedly asked him about the actual process and method, but he kept repeating generic generalities. "They have different methods...." conveys nothing. You clarified, it's primarily by heat and moisture. Whew. Like pulling teeth. Then you logically point out the gamble and need to buy a garment that is larger to allow for that shrinkage if unsanforized. He says, well, slightly larger but just leave the top button undone if it no longer closes! What?! He says earlier that some people get mad if their jeans shrink 3 inches when you wash them. Really? I'm one of those weird people that like to wear clothes that actually fit without fear of needing to donate them to a doll collector due to shrinkage. So thanks for parsing out the actual facts, as you always succinctly do. (Loved your pained facial expression at 7:35!)
@Cooper024
@Cooper024 2 года назад
100%
@LeadLeftLeon
@LeadLeftLeon 2 года назад
Interesting so sanforized can still be raw if it wasn’t washed. But one wash is no longer raw.
@ynysvon
@ynysvon Год назад
I do think that there is a bit of snobbery here. If the jeans look good, fit well, and are good quality, does it matter if the denim is sanforized or unsanforized.
@Stridewise
@Stridewise Год назад
it's less snobbery and more hobbyism. some people find it interesting, some don't! i don't think anyone's denigrating cheaper jeans by saying they like historical recreations or something
@ynysvon
@ynysvon Год назад
@Stridewise Yes, I get it. Some people like going through the whole shrink to fit rituals. It is hard to judge with raw, unshrunk jeans one size or two sizes up. The results can be disappointing sometimes and costly, so now I mainly buy Iron Heart, so I know the fit I'm getting.
@Stridewise
@Stridewise Год назад
@@ynysvon smart! my first pair was unsanforized, studio dartisan, i was lucky they shrunk to a good fit they're one of my favorite pairs. haven't done it since though!
@sf2explus184
@sf2explus184 Год назад
never buy unsanforized denim snug in the waist it should be comfortable without being loose. legnth buy 4 inches longer than you need.
@Stridewise
@Stridewise Год назад
Yup that's how I went with my studio dartisans
@eachday9538
@eachday9538 2 года назад
That's an unsanforized accent you got going there
@Stridewise
@Stridewise 2 года назад
I love the niche insults I get on my channel
@eachday9538
@eachday9538 2 года назад
@@Stridewise :-)
@gdaddy6922
@gdaddy6922 2 года назад
Wait, you guys are washing your jeans?
@hungryalien
@hungryalien Год назад
yes its actually good for the fabric and your relationship with your partner/wife hehe
@thomaspaulson5284
@thomaspaulson5284 Год назад
Jeans is pants
@Stridewise
@Stridewise Год назад
right on, sing it, sister
@jesse8737
@jesse8737 Год назад
No difference. Sanforized will still shrink 1-3% for up to 4 washes after the factory “one wash” which means at best you get 3% shrinkage and at worst 9%. Unsanforised will shrink 10%. It seems whether the jeans fit you or not is dependant on luck and why would you wanna drop 400 bucks on luck?
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