The clear wire ties that Sansui used can be replicated. Craft stores sell plastic string used to make elastic beads. Stretchy enough that it can be tied in a knot just like Sansui did. Zip ties just look out of place on vintage gear.
Hello, nice work 👍 if I use LEDs as a replacement for light bulbs, I choose two power options as needed. 1) bridge rectifier - full DC, in some cases also with voltage stabilizer and filtering 2) direct connection of a classic LED to AC with a diode connected in parallel in the closing direction - ordinary LEDs do not like a negative half-wave, so I eliminate its effects with an ordinary diode. I don't have an AC LED with two transitions. But what I always do - I convert the clear transparent LED housing into a matte one with, for example, sanding fleece - the light is diffused better. Fortunately, nowadays LEDs are produced in many colors, so there is no problem of color matching with the original - this is how I completed the interior lighting of my car - the original backlight is turquoise - and the new lighting is indistinguishable from the original. Nice day 🙂 Tom
You do have a point here. The fuse style lamps that are shown here have some SMD components mounted on the back that deal with some of the shortcoming of running LED on an AC supply, however, the small LEDs in the power meters that I show wired in reverse polarity from one another have no such protection and I have seen some fail in this position before. The dual LEDs used for the indicators seem to be extremely robust though. I have have used them in many projects with no failures. I think they are internally wired in in anti-parallel configuration. I may start installing a rectifier & capacitor for the power meters in the future.
@@NovaluxStereophonic An ordinary LED without a protective diode in the closing direction - AC cannot handle it, the negative half-wave eliminates it, the diodes you used should handle it.
Really enjoyed the video and helped me with my 890db I just rebulbed ( pretty sure we got the same bulb kit ) One thing I noticed different on the 890db/8080db is my indicator bulb wires went behind that panel so there was no way to cleanly solder them to the board like you did. I had to cut the existing wires and then just twist / solder / heat shrink onto the original wires.. Maybe I could of just solder to the pads on the outside who knows. Its works perfect but id be happier if I could of did it externally like yours are, Joe is da man!
If you want to get rid of almost all flicker, you can wire in a bridge rectifier between the AC and the LEDs. Both the positive and the negative halves of the AC will become positive pulses. The time between the pulses is reduced to almost nothing, so no flicker will be observable.
One of the most common things we see at the shop are folks bringing in vintage gear that had LED kits installed by the previous owner. They ask us to replace them with the original bulbs -- bayonets and "fuse" type lamps most commonly. Fisher gear like the 500b and 500c are very popular receiver examples. The owners dislike the look of the LED's. I caution everyone to see how the LED's look BEFORE you have them put in; in some cases - like tube gear from many makers like Sansui (especially THEIR 500b model!), HH Scott and McIntosh as well as the Fisher I mentioned - you can hurt the value of the piece.
I agree, case by case. I always offer the choice to the customer and it seems to be 50/50. I only ever use LED in Mac to brighten up the meters. LED never really works properly for the lettering. It does not diffuse properly and cannot propagate properly through some of the color filters. The Sansui X0X0 receivers are one of the rare exceptions where I prefer LED over incandescent.
one of the best tutoring videos how to upgrade LED lights that i have encountered with. not sure why my 8080 LED light doesn't light up starting from FM 88 to 92? thank you for this easy to follow video.
I will consider making a video on this the next time that I have a Sansui X0X0 in the shop. Proper cleaning involves desoldering the entire control from the board which can cause more harm than good if you do not have a good desoldering station.
I would be worried about accidentally melting the meter itself. Maybe try it first without glue and see how it fits up and looks before resorting to glue. If the LED ever fails in the future the glue may make swapping it more difficult.
Por volta de U$ 1,000.00 em 2023, mas pode atingir U$ 2,500.00 se for MINT condition, serviced recapped, ou com caixa e manuais originais, ou ofertado por loja confiável. Boa sorte!
Thank you for your video, it is very detailed, I got the lights kit for my 8080db but after I opened I find out that the stereo light is working ok but sources lights are very dim out, Does anyone here know what the issue can be?
