Santoku Sharpening Secrets - Make Your Knife LASER SHARP 

Thanks Naoto!

Glad I could help!

Hey! I don't use it a ton, but because it's very hard, it's not great for bevel polishing but really good for checking the uraoshi on single bevel knives. You can lay the back flat on the stone, and buff it a bit. By looking at which areas of the stone it touches, you can identify how flat the uraoshi is and which areas may need straightening. It's also great for sharpening a.very precise micro bevel, because of its hardness. I'll be sure to include it in a video down the road, I hope that helps for now!

Absolutely! The video shoot got postponed, but we'll be doing videos on thinning knives without distiny primary bevels AND on re-polishing different kinds of Damascus in the next few months!

@@KnifewearKnives 🥳

Glad I could help!

We'll definitely do one on that topic soon!

I'm glad to hear it! That's super interesting, it makes a lot of sense.

Thank you!

Thank you! If the steel is unknown, I would go for 1,000 grit and likely 20 degrees, just to be safe. It will still give you a nice sharp edge!

That's right! If you use a really high grit ceramic rod for honing (like our black honing rod) it'll also keep the edge linear because it doesn't remove enough steel to make a tangible difference!

@@KnifewearKnives yeah but i was talking about tre strops because i noted after some use if i use the strops like if I'm removing little bur the knife get more sharpened

Hey, I think that must be a trick of the camera. For the initial bevel, I sharpen flat on the stone, and for the edge I sharpen at about 15 degrees on either side. I hope that helps!

@@KnifewearKnives I actually don't mean the positioning of the blade on the whetstone, but rather the positioning of the knife to the whetstone. On one side the handle is very close to the body. When you sharpen the other side, the knife lies at an angle on the stone, i.e. at a 90 degree angle. Sorry, I'm not a native speaker. I just feel this was one side gets an diagonal grain and the other side a straight grain. Does that matter?

We sure do! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1plZtOFPuCE.htmlsi=eA9GgeqW_kiyZWKz

Hey! We've never had them before, but hopefully one day. Ryusen makes incredible knives, so I imagine they're excellent!

Hey! The Haruyuki Shiso would be my first choice, a stunning blade and great value. I also quite like the Masakage Koishi and Hatsukokoro Shinkiro! As for shipping, you can enter your info at checkout for a full quote of shipping and customs, before you pay.

@@KnifewearKnives thanks big help!

It works for some stones, but water stones can get clogged by oil and not work properly.

@@KnifewearKnives one more question..what's the best way to wash the stone?? Thank u again

Truing your stone and then giving it a quick rinse and wipe off can be a really effective way to clean it! If you draw a grid on your stone you'll be able to see when you've fully flatten it!

It sure is!

Yes, you absolutely can!

@@KnifewearKnives thank you so much, but i need to put the medium and fine powder right?

Great question! Yes and no. However often you thin, you need to remove the same amount of steel. If you think every time it goes pretty quickly, but if you do so every few sharpenings, it will take longer.

I've been cooking for almost 12+ years and I'm a sushi chef right now and thinning in my opinion is not super necessary as Naoto states. Sharpening in general, you're just removing steel, thinning just magnifies that removal (you're literally removing steel off both sides of the bevel) and over time just reduces the life span of the knife. I only thin my knives when I notice the edge geometry start to change (which is very rare) and I take extremely good care of my knives. I rarely ever run my knives on anything below 1000grit for a whetstone. I find if you hone and maintain your knifes edge periodically with higher grit whetstones, you're knifes edge/longevity will last much longer (obvious it will differ if you work in a say a professional kitchen). As opposed to a lot of beginners/people not entirely knowledgeable, just always running their knives on a 1000 grit or below whetstone whenever their knives get dull and overtime removing too much steel which will effect the knife geometry where then you will need to periodically thin your knife to maintain performance.

Thank you!