Knifewear is the world's best Japanese kitchen knife store! We're run by a rag-tag band of retired cooks and chefs who love sharp tools. We specialize in handmade knives, cutting boards, sharpening stones, and all manner of other chef-tested kitchen gear.
You can order online at knifewear.com or visit our shops in Toronto, Calgary, Edmonton, Ottawa or Vancouver. Sharp Knives Rock!
I’m 41. thanks for the compliment…….all those natural seafood oils getting onto my hands from breaking down whole fish with my Japanese knives must make me look younger!
These are incredibly well made, last a lifetime, and are better for the edge of your knife! knifewear.com/collections/larchwood-canada/products/larch-wood-end-grain-cutting-board
Love this video. At 16:45 - this is how I cut. I slide in and pull back towards me. Someone told me that’s bc I’m left handed. I see you’re left handed as well. Thoughts?
I have got King 800 and King 1200 and use them both often. Usually when I want to true them up I rub them on eachother. I have got also cheap and hard whetstone to do the same thing and to soften stone edges, so truing stone is not essential.
I appreciate the skills and knowledge. But I'll fight all you knife-nerds, that knife is just a standard French chefs-knife but the fancy Japan edition. I'm not saying it's not high quality, or not finely crafted. I'm not blaming you for owning one, it's awesome and looks cool. I'm saying that my 15 dollar, well maintained chef knife can do everything that 200 dollar blade can. I just have to sharpen it a bit more often.
This is an interesting video. I'm a cooking enthusiast. I have also bought most of my fancy knvies from Knifewear. I'm separately the only medically released Canadian Armed Forces soldier to negotiate a 6 month, full-time apprenticeship as a Traditional Blacksmith. I did a proper, old-school apprenticeship in coal blacksmithing with a Master Smith for 6 months, full-time. Not just 'bladesmithing', but full on Pre-Industrial Fabrication. I fully appreciate the thousands of dollars of steel you just experimented on. Kudos for the sacrifice. Ferric Chloride is obviously the standard for producing an even 'industrial' patina on the steel. The patterns, my favorite being the onion, are cool. But I still can't help but wonder why you would 'force' a patina. And I totally get it in terms of internet culture, so-to-speak. But between being a cooking enthusiast & a formally trained blacksmith; I have to suggest that time is the only true way to express yourself honestly. It will reflect what you 'actually' do with your knife, rather than whatever fad of the day is ongoing at the time you purchase your knifewear. On the function of Science regarding forced patinas, I may suggest if you ever consider something like this again to take more metric data in a matrix. You can take the pH, primary reactive substance (vingears/acetic acid, etc) vs the composition of the steel so that you can more specifically and accurately graph your results. All in all, it was a great video. Thanks again for sacrificing that steel to test. I'll be interested in a next video in this set regardless the route you choose. Cheers.
I'd been looking into knives for a couple of years but never found something I truly liked until I ran into a Martin Yan video which lead to @MadewithLau. And oh MAN did I understood why the couple Chinese chefs around here basically did everything with two knives. I ended up getting a Shi Ba Zi Zuo for dirt cheap considering where I live and it's pretty much replaced everything else, I even got more into actually cooking stuff now.
Soo, i like to just put the tiniest drop of dawn in my soaking tub when i change the water. i feel as if it makes them a little easier to keep clean and unclogged. idk, dawn works on everything. is there a reason we shouldnt? the nerd in me needs to know
just an FYI, a Kurouchi finish is literally just forge scale or iron oxide, it happens every time you put steel in a forge and the way smiths remove it (as you found) is either straight or concentrated vinegar. the difference between rust, scale, and patina is very slight but they are all essentially the oxidation of iron.
You can smooth out finer stones with the nagura, but the medium and coarse stones don't need it! I'll use my nagura to clean my fine stones after every use, and flatten fine stones with a truing stone every so often, not every time I use them.
Two things: my stones are hard enough that i don't need to flatten them every time i use them. If i think about it, i don't need to flatten them often. But i am not a professional knife sharpener, i just sharpen my knives at home. And: every waterstone can be used to flatten another basically. So when someone has for example a 400 and a 2000 stone, they can use them. Sure the 120 grit flattening stone is cheaper and then you might take off less material of the actual sharpening stones, but using the sharpening stones on each other works fine, and leaves a smoother finish than the flattening stone.
Cliff Stamp about whetstones lubrication: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2VCo1_fozD0.htmlsi=HjjPjvrobDnxzenZ Are you sure oil is a bad idea on waterstones?
Good question! I use this one on all of mine, and it leaves a nice finish, but I find fine stones slightly end up slightly rough. You can use a nagura stone afterwards to smooth it out! knifewear.com/products/atoma-diamond-plate-140-grit-210x75x2mm
QUESTION: I have a Naniwa flattening stone similar to the one in this video is very coarse like #120-grit. Is it OK to flatten my Suehiro 5000 rikka stone with a very rough #120 flattening stone that leaves a rough finish on my #5000 and #2000 whetstones? Like there is rough lines scraped out of the cutting surface. Its no longer a silky smooth cutting surface. Im thinking of getting a smoother finer grit flattening stone, is this necessary? Thanks
Well, if you have to flatten both the 5k and the 2k, you could use them on each other. Sure it's not going to be as fast as with the 120, but the surface will be smoother. Or use the 120 on the 2k and then the 2k on the 5k.
I went for Miyabi (or alternatively Kai Shun)... somewhat "mass-production", but you can be sure, they are decent quality and in deed from Japan. My Santoku in deed is purchased in Japan on vacation - not the most expensive (laminated VG10), but really enjoy working with it and easy to keep sharp.
