Save $100s by Building Your Own Router Lift! 

I couldn't find a reasonably priced lift that would work with my table saws router wing extension. I found this video and just finished building this lift and it works great! I made two small changes though. One for performance and one for convenience. For convenience, instead of filing the threaded rod into a hex head, I simply drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 hole in center of the threaded rod end that's at table top and then, counter sunk a 1/4-20 hex head cap screw (bonded with red lock-tite) flush with the threaded rod. This allows me to use a simple 3/16 hex wrench to make adjustments, instead of having to keep a socket and ratchet handy. For performance, I didn't like the idea of the drive screw being supported only by the fixed base and only the nut in the moving router clamp so, I got a second 3/4" I.D., 7/8" O.D. bronze bushing, drilled out my Insert plate for a press-in fit of that bushing to support the top of the threaded rod. Now, the rod's rock solid and turns true with no wobble.

Nice job on the project. I’ve been receiving, reading and using Woodsmith and shop notes for years. It’s provided me with great ideas that I’ve used to build projects. Thanks

I started making something similar and found this while looking for ideas on the rails. Fantastic job guys. I'm also an avid 3D printer and electronics guy. I plan to add a stepper motor to the bottom of the rod and old control board from a decommissioned 3d printer. That way I can use push buttons to automatically raise and lower the router.

I've been a fan of the show for a long time. Seeing that first episode of Woodsmith shop and seeing how you guys break things down step by step really got me thinking that I could do these projects. Ever since I've been building all kinds of stuff and enjoying each and every build. So thanks for all you guy do and I look forward to what you guys come up with next!

Great project. Shop builds done right are just as helpful as the factory ones, without so many bells and whistles. Thanks Guys, I'd like to see more videos like this.

This a nice and simple lift. I will add another set screw hole in on side of mine at a point where the router clamp is adjusted to most of the time, and will install a threaded rod out the side of my cabinet. That screw can be tightened to hold the router in position without disturbing the adjustment screws.Thanks for the great information

I made that a few years ago from shop notes magazine. It works very well.👍👍😁

Thanks for this video! I’ve been wanting to make this for years and finally did this month with my extra shop time from the pandemic. 😃 It was a challenging build for me but I’m happy with the results. I’m looking forward to using this. Thanks, guys! I appreciate your help and all the tips. 👍🏼

Threaded inserts for the set screws and glue a piece of flat steel bar from the hardware store to the back of the runners/guide bars, just dado a shallow groove. Pretty slick build, think I'll make one too.

guys, you make a really good team and no wonder you do so good and precise work. Congratulations!

He disfrutado mucho viendo este vídeo, ¡gracias por compartir este sencillo y efectivo diseño de elevador de fresadora y el proceso de fabricación!. ¡Internet es una hermosa herramienta!.

Love these "how to" build videos! When I build the Combo Router Table, this will go in it too. An idea for one of your builds is the "Wall-Mounted Drill Press Shelf" from Shop Notes #133 or #64. I'll let you choose.

I would love to see you guys come up with an incremental tablesaw fence (Incra style) with a digital readout. I hope I put a bug in somebody's ear. Thank you Woodsmith crew for all your efforts and incredible projects that you come up with.

More please. I’m all about me some money saving shop projects.

A good way to mount the threaded rod in a vice and also make it easy to rotate the rod by 60 degrees for each facet is to thread two sets of jam nuts onto the rod, adjusted so all facets of the nuts are parallel to each other. The nut closest to the end also acts as a stop for filing all the facets to a consistent length. A couple of jam nuts as the socket head or a nut welded on the rod end would also work, but be larger.

This is a great example of how a Woodsmith subscription can pay for itself instantly! Good job men!

I loved when he flipped epoxy syringes and dipped it. :D

I made this a couple of years ago, still going strong.

Geweldig om te zien heel Kundig gemaakt 👍👏

I like these more challenging projects. Well done, guys!

It's wonderfull, it's marvelous!

Very nice! Thanks

Thank you for another great build video! Without locking the screw down after the height is adjusted, I would be concerned about the bit moving while routing. How well did the lift work when in use? Did you have any issues with it moving up or down while running the router? Thanks in advance.

Been looking for inspiration for making a router lift, and this has been helpful. However, after watching (inspiration from watching this video) I now can't help thinking that in 2022 you can utilize the 3D printer revolution to make this a lot better and simpler to make. Take a couple of lengths of 2020 aluminium profile with a couple of gantry wheels and it would be *way* quicker, more accurate and possibly cheaper than making your own rails out of wood. Just priced it up on eBay two 300mm/1ft lengths of 2020 profile and two sets of four-wheel 2020 gantries come to 25USD shipped. You would also need an M6 tap to thread the centre hole of the 2020 profile and some M6 bolts. However again not expensive and you are saving a lot of time.

Great idea!

This is a very simple build. It certainly less expensive than a commercial version. One thing I didn't see was methods to insure the posts and guide runners are absolutely square. I guess the set screws could make up for a small amount of misalignment.🙂🙂

I built this just after it was first published. I still use it. I did have to modify it a little when I changed routers. Another great thing about this build is that if you need to modify it to suit your router then that is all you need do, modify. Cheers John

Jessem router lift $180. I admire that you go through this much effort but for myself I'll buy one. Thank you for posting this though great job on your skills

question: for the clamp block, is it better to make it out of laminated plywood (as per the instructions) or out of a solid block of wood (I have a block of 2" thick red cedar from another project that I can use). Also, I have limited access to hardwood and what is available at my local is quite expensive. I am thinking of using 2"x4" pine stud lumber. Can I get away with using this softer wood? I am a novice and so would appreciate any advice. Thanks.

i still have the book i just do not have the room for any thing else moved my router to table saw wing for space with new triton 31/4 hp router to replace the 2 hp that was in my table

Thank you

Nice job 👍

Nice idea... I like it...

I am making this right now over the Christmas holiday to work with a table saw extension router table. I couldn't find a 3/4" - 16 threaded rod locally so, am going to use a 3/4" - 10 rod, should be okay. Just won't have the same fine adjustment the 16 tpi provides. Also, I didn't want to spend the $35+ for a plastic router plate so, will be making my plate out of the same 3/4" baltic birch plywood that I am using for the table top.

Clever! I’m picturing a removable, height adjustable block that could be inserted to keep the mechanism from slipping down during operation. What keeps the bottom nuts (surrounding the bushing) from slipping over time as the router assembly is raised and lowered - and would it matter?

Can this be adapted to a router table on my ryobi table saw from the bottom

Thanks.

2 questions... I have a Benchdog cast iron router table that attaches to my table saw... will this work with that table? My router is the 3hp Porter cable... will that fit in this lift?

I only have 1 functioning arm, so a table saw is a no-go for me. Could I use a small rotary tool router in place of the dado blades? I have a giant router, but I cannot control it with one arm. Thus the need for a table/lift.

Awesome!

I have a quick question. Once I set my router height, will the router hold it's position or could it move up and down? I feel like the vibration of my router could cause the the screw to turn some. Or am I overthinking this?

Is the threaded rod (lead screw?) 1/2 inch? Fine thread? Please confirm. Seems like someone suggested Acme thread; how would that compare?

Will this lift accept a dewalt 2 1/2 HP router, model 618PBK?

Love this build....do yourself a favor and order an acme lead screw from mcmaster....threaded rod will give you some "slop" after making adjustments....the acme screw will not...thanks for sharing

Sorry if I missed this somewhere..... Instead of the Hard Maple, could you use cabinet grade plywood and reduce the chance wood changing with temp and humidity?

Just a quick observation, not a criticism, winding a nut of the correct thread form onto the rod to the cut position will ensure that you can dress the cut then screw off the nut without any damage to the rod threads, and also prevent the risk of cross threading when using the rod.

Could also weld on a bold head instead of filing it down to be a bolt head.

You can thank Steve Ramsey for popularizing this router lift project on one of his You Tube videos! That is where a lot of you tubers saw it first.

I'm used to larger, corded routers ru-vid.comUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.

The plans say "It works with almost any mid-sized router ...". Will it work with a Porter Cable 7500 series (3-1/4 max hp) router motor? Or does it fit the Porter Cable 6900 series (1-3/4 max hp). I have both, but want the Big Boy in the router table.

Get the step-by-step plans to make this Shop-Built Router Lift here: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/router-jig-router-lift/?apid=36564

Great video as usual and an awesome path to conquer RU-vid. My "Two Fils" here is the video should be no longer than 20 minutes for RU-vid to consider it "pop-woodworking" and suggests it to viewers who are interested in such casual videos that are not long lectures or in-depth how-to. A quick question though: Since we are in 2019 when Kreg already selling their own version of router-lift, doesn't this considered as conflict of interest? ;-p I believe that this video puts Woodsmith on the right track for the future subscribers segment. Thanks John, Logan and everyone behind the scene.

Will this fit in your woodsmith combination router table without modifications?

standard tap will thred hard wood

Really nice video. Safety glasses are really important while filing metal. Getting metal out a patient’s eye is really no fun for the patient.

Hello. Could you please provide the dimensions of router lift? I mean, first of all, the handle of the milling machine.

Ok, I must be an idiot. Please no cruel remarks but I have a question about the Woodsmith homemade router lift. I purchased the plans for this and have it all built but have run into a snag with the all thread and the lock nuts that go on the bottom. If you look at the plans it depicts that you thread the locknut that goes on the top of the bottom plate from the top of the all thread. This is turning out to be impossible for me to do. The lock nut seizes up on me. I can't get it to go past the nylon insert. Alternatively, I try to thread it from the bottom of the all thread and, of course it won't go on because it shows to have it with the nylon end up, which means I have to thread it using the nylon end first. I have tried to thread the lock nut from the top of the all thread but this has caused the threads to be damaged and the lock nut just will not go past the nylon insert without damaging the threads on the all thread. Now the all thread won't thread on to my coupling nut due to the threads being damaged on the all thread. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure I have either misunderstood the plans or something.

Saludos nice el trabajo 300$ ah 60$. Haciendo ah tu medida

Does it work for any router?

Don't you have a follow up video MOUNTING and USING this?

I just finished mine. I ground my threaded rod to 3/8" square, and I'm going to epoxy a 1/4 inch socket to the end. That way I can use a 1/4" hex key or my screw gun to adjust. Also makes for a smaller hole in the router plate.

What type of router does this take?

So what is the drawback if any using the 3/4 - 10 versus the 3/4 - 16 threaded rod?

I've been secretly using these wood plans for years.

Why not drill and tap the end for a 7/16- or 1/2-inch set screw. Add some red thread locker screw in the set screw and use an Allen T handle to run it up and down? Worried about the thread locker not holding? Use a center punch on the set screw hole threads after inserting the set screw to "Jimmy the threads".

have tap will travel??

Is there any info on threaded bar size to use. Thanks Mark

The plans for this lift are not as detailed as I'd wished. As a fairly experienced DIY'er, I had a huge challenge with getting the holes to align (16:00 in the video) - so much so that I ended up having to start over with a fresh base and remake the router carriage because the rod was misaligned and bound when I tried to raise and lower the carriage. One other issue that I've now encountered is the router type must be one that utilizes the wrenches to install/remove the bits. A router which uses a push button to lock the shaft so the collet can be loosened won't work because the router can't be raised high enough to access the button in order to change the bit. Finally, I had to laugh out loud when they said "This is probably something you could throw together in an afternoon"! I'm in the middle of my fourth weekend and still haven't gotten the insert plate mounted on the vertical supports. I'm saving hundreds of dollars by not buying one, but I'm just paying that money to my therapist to help me deal with the anxiety that's coming from this build! It's definitely doable, but just be aware that the devil is in the details with this one!

And so why are router lifts expensive?

Originally published in ShopNotes in 2012 ? . Issue 121 for those who save them.

I am looking to buy one if anybody has one for sale? It's important to be precise and and 100% correct

Why is the plate off center to the lift?

I bought the plans and am at a stopping point. On page 5 of the plans, the drawing of the main block and the clamping block are not complete. Cutting out the inside of the blocks, not all the measurements are there. I see some left to right measurements on the inside of the blocks but there are no top to bottom measurements. I see 1 1/4 from bottom to top of left angle, but what is the cut from that angle to the top? Also on the clamping block. I see 1/2" from left to top of right angle but what is the measurement from there to the next angle.

FYI Woodsmith - Your plans show that 5/16" holes should be drilled in the base plate and vertical guides, yet the lag screws are also specified as 5/16". This won't work and will result in lag screws that are loose in their holes. Please update the plans.

Me gustaria que fuera gratis

Nice router lift but you guys cant do math..I calculated the cost that is mentioned on the site's material list and its 3 times more expensive than the $50. you've mentioned..lol Those numbers really count.

Pourriez-vous traduire en français merci

I know this an old video; but the gentleman using the table saw wants to keep all of his figures, he better learn to is push sticks. Just my 2 cents worth.

Elegant build, but my portable router table usually stands on a solid bench with only a few inches below the back of the router. Answer: a chemistry lab. scissor jack; in the closed position only 2" high. Cost: £40. No problem in use. Bernard, Cheshire , England.

Too much chit-chat!

Nice job, but 4:20 before any action. Keep intros short please.

Oops 2 1/4 HP router

Thanks for the lift project. I've been putting off getting one because of the expense. This is much more affordable. The host in the green shirt wanders off subject a bit too much. It is annoying.

Love the video but fingers that close to a tablesaw is a big safety issue. I know these guys are confident but it doesnt take much to have a preventable accident. Please use safer cutting procedures going forward so the next generation that sees these videos will opperate thier tools in a safer manner.

where is the riving knife on your table saw bad example I use a car scissor jack on my router table works real well your system is total overkill

A bit too much talk and not enough action. Took too long to get started!!

I really really wanna / need to learn how to make me of these but i just cannot stand you two guys telling each other story’s and chit chatting about nonsense ......