I started watching these bespoke suit making videos with the prior thought of hand sewing one up for myself. It is now clear to me that, that is not within the realm of my ability. Still I will persue the dream with fervancy and zest. Nice portrait in the background!
Thank you, this was very interesting. I'll be looking out for this in the future with my 3r2 jackets. I am going to go examine all the 3r2 jackets by Italian makers to see who makes the cut...
How wonderful to watch and listen to an excellent explanation of the 3 roll 2 coat. Here in the "States" some of us who dress traditionally, also have a sack jacket front with the pleat more to the side with a single vent in the back. if I cross the pond in the next couple of years, I'll drop by. Thanks. GB
Thank you for your kind comment Sir. We'd be delighted to welcome you to Redmayne if you made it across the pond. Do let our team know when you have plans and we'll be happy to arrange an appointment.
The bias cut is something that dressmakers have been doing for a very long time. Do you know if Anderson’s shift to bias was inspired from dressmaking or the other way round? Thanks. I am slowly getting addicted to you videos. Thanks so much🥰
In America, the 3/2 stance also harkens back to stroller suits, which were a more casual suiting around the late 19th/early 20th Century. They also featured hook vents and an undarted front. Truly a Sack style. The cut also softens the silhouette of large, heavy men.
It is similar to waistcoats and the bottom button. Initially historically not buttoned due to a distending abdomen, but now actually cut not to be buttoned, I see with yours' too, as mine from Ede & R.
Very interesting. Nowadays neapolitan 3r2 style is very in fashion in the menswear community, and I do like them simply because as far as R2W tailoring goes, they generally have a lower buttoning point and much broader lapel, which I do love, but not sure if I actually like the buttonhole in the middle of the lapel, which I consider more of a side-effect than something I intentionally look for. The terrible past fashion for skinny lapels and high buttoning point is horrible imo, I still don't understand the point of a buttoning point higher than the actual waist of any human, excuse the pun. As a sidenote I've had an alteration tailor button the waist button to the lapel hole, when returning the jacket to me after tightening the back seam, obviously distorting completely the shape of the jacket. Funny bit, which however made me question whether said tailor has any actual idea of modern jackets though. I've never even hemmed my pants by myself, but I could totally see immediately that something was very off in the jacket.
Mr. Mahon, appreciate sharing this and thoroughly enjoyed it. Life right now has other plans, though will get back to learning tailoring and maybe one day make a coat. To further understanding, can the top button of a three roll to two be buttoned for warmth?
Wonderful. I love the style. My question is whether it takes a particular kind of cloth to do it. I live in the tropics. Can it be done in tropic wool?
Delighted you like the style and thanks for commenting. It certainly works on light weight cloths and we make many. Perhaps our remote suit service may work for you? Best, Tom.
Thank you for the interesting presentation. In your opinion this configuration is better with notch or with peak lapels? Does also the weight of a cloth play a role e.g. better with a light rather then a heavier cloth?
does this mean that you do not offer a 3to2 seperately? is it the same as the usual 3button coat, and you just let it roll by itself to the second button? or do you actually construct a 3to2 and 3 button differently?
I think I'll have to disagree regarding italian tailors double-working the button-hole. So far, on all the 3-roll-to-2 italian bespoke coats I came across, the button-hole is only worked on the outer side. Maybe I was lucky, not sure....
Question is this good for the portly man. If not what basically the best style for the 48-56 guy. 5-11 it seems to me this would not be suitable for big guys open up the front making you to look bigger? Love your video
Dear Mr Mahon... If you speak about the tailoring without the adjectives it will help the audience to make up their own mind. Also the lowermost button on the waistcoat which appears unpaired looks very odd. It would just be better off without it.