Our series of Questions and Answers with The Armoury Founders, Mark Cho and Alan See. In this video Mark gives an overview on how to judge correct jacket length with some rules and examples to follow. Visit thearmoury.com to learn more.
Being British, as soon as you said "let's take a gander" it put a smile on my face! As for the odd jacket having the ability to be slightly short, but visually longer is something that I have always seemed to notice, but it's the first time I've actually heard someone say this!
Great video! Could you do a video on proper armhole sizing? I believe that is one aspect that is often overlooked in mens suits. Ready to wear clothing usually has disastrously low armholes even though it is one of the easier issues to fix.
ebutuoy1406 I agree, but I would like to add that it would be helpful to have a sholder sizing video as well, like how to measure and what size to go with.
i think the one to one length ratio from the side profile is more for a rough visual gauge than actual specifications. usually, if the jacket were to cover the butt, the jacket length will tend to be slightly longer than the length of pants underneath it. i took a string to measure yours - both the 46 and 48 jackets were a little longer than the pants. also, i think the 46 looks better on you, but i guess you prefer 48
Great video. I can't afford custom but I'll keep the shorter sport jacket length in mind when I am shopping. For guys with maybe shorter legs than torso, would you recommend breaking the 50/50 ratio in favour of a shorter jacket to make the legs look longer?
I enjoyed the informative video. I have a question. How tall are you? And I want to know the length of the jacket you wore for the first time and the sports jacket you wore for the second time. I bought a sports jacket this time and it was 76.5cm long. I am about 174.5cm tall, so please let me know if the figures are appropriate. Thank you.😊
Thanks always for great contents. What would you recommend for somebody who's leg's are on the shorter side, and you applying the half/half rule results in your butt not being completely covered (ie can't follow both rules at the same time)?
Respectfully - you are absolutely swimming in that suit. That cut was popular in the mid 1990s. It’s way out of fashion in 2024. “Half jacket/half pants” makes people look shorter not taller. That’s the opposite of what most men want to look like.
One of the benefits of a shorter jacket is that it helps elongate the leg line and draw the viewers eye up (assuming a mid/high rise trouser). For that reason I think it's usually better for younger men to opt for a shorter jacket as long as it covers most of the downwards curve of your ass. I hope no one has jackets that have their butts sticking out; not very flattering lol. On the flip side, there is a risk of having too long a jacket which looks quite stodgy and top heavy.
Yet, a woman like myself likes to see just slightly the bottom portion of the rump. If a jacket covers up your whole rump, then it just makes you look flat and unfit physically.
All I can say is, that when a nice suit or sports jacket fits well.. suddenly you feel the power when everybody positively looks at you... This happened to me on Sunday when I got out of my classic Mercedes sports car wearing a country sage green English tweed sports jacket with gently crumpled breast pocket handkerchief and open necked shirt with cufflinks... A young man passing with his wife immediately commented, "wow, what a lovely jacket!" ....The lady I was with then stormed off in a huff! Oh well ...... ............... I tried!
