I love the "Disclaimer not actual sawing speed" Just so everyone knows, Dave cuts and moves so fast, he had to slow the video down just so you could see his movements. His normal speed is "to fast to be seen by humans" lol Great video, great looking mill, have fun and keep making Man Glitter !
🤪 Yeh, right, that's the ticket. Actually, last summer I did catch a humming bird in flight when it got into the house. Thanks for the comment! More videos on the way!
Good question. I generally cut 7/8" square, so I can drop the sawhead down in 1" increments, allowing for 1/8" kerf. By the time they dry, they're closer to 3/4". Sometimes I'll cut edgings for stickers which are typically 1-1/8" thick (the most common thickness I cut), so they wind up 1-1/8" by 7/8".
Fresh cut stickers can leave "sticker stain" on the boards. If the stickers are the same species as the lumber, it won't be much of a problem, but it would be best to let them air dry for a month or so, if possible.
Dave, I have a new mill . I will cut my 1st log this year. If I buy a planer for my lumber, about how long should I air dry before I plane them to size ?
Congratulations on your new mill-- hope it serves you long and well, and that you enjoy every minute of sawing! Drying depends on how you plan to use it. You should understand that for furniture and cabinet work, you'll probably want the lumber finished in a kiln for two reasons: 1) it brings the wood down to the moisture content that matches the average humidity in the house (air dry lumber doesn't get dry enough no matter how long you leave it), and 2) wood needs to be heated for several hours to at least 140 degrees F for several hours to kill any bugs. If you still want to use air dry lumber, the rule of thumb is one year per inch of thickness, but there is a lot of variation with climate where you live and species of wood. Old-style furniture, such as trestle tables, are designed to be able to hold their shape even as the wood shrinks to its final dimensions in the home.
Sure! It is a 3-part series: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E7F1SWyn4nA.htmlsi=upB3CCfTp2vdKOXb ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-768C89YNOqM.htmlsi=_Do0R-pXlB49ozvA ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gSMm-PVQwts.htmlsi=FXkXAL6FslrsukCr Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks for this Great Content! My HD36 isn't scheduled to arrive until July. This video gives me a lot of great starter tips! I might have to mail you a bottle of Maple Syrup in appreciation. Mike
Maple syrup is fine with me. I have bartered for honey (now, I have a couple of hives), and morel mushrooms are as good as cash this time of year in the Ozarks.
I've been using about a quarter-cup of Pine-Sol per gallon to break up any pitch buid-up, but I've heard good reports of using a little chain saw oil & Dawn dishwashing detergent as an emulsifier so the oil is suspended in the water. I'm going to try 1/2 cup of each per 5 gallons to see what happens.
Yeh, he's quite a character... wandered in as a stray, if you can believe that! I didn't realize he had "photobombed" the video until I went to edit it. Really stole the show! 😃
@@daveboyt6810 that’s great! He’s got some me character! Dave I’m having a problem in my hd38. The drive belt keeps slipping off of the drive shaft. Was wondering if it would be possible to reach out to you offline to try and troubleshoot. Thanks much
@@chriswahl5167 Sure, I'm always glad to help a fellow sawyer! You can email me at dboyt.42 at Gmail.com. It sounds like an alignment problem, which would be an easy fix. When you email me, a photo or two might help. The main points in aligning the pulley are in the Engine & Sawhead video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gSMm-PVQwts.html The important points are at 1:40, 14:36, and 28:12. Also, the Norwood manual has the drive belt impossibly loose! The video shows how I mounted the belt and set the tension at 19:36. Make sure the belt isn't twisted. Please email me or leave a comment and let me know how you're getting along with it. Best of luck!
Good idea, just might use it in a later video. One of the funniest videos I've seen that use the Benny Hill theme song can be found by searching RU-vid for "How not to cut down a rotten tree" on RU-vid. Be sure to watch both parts 1 & 2. Disclaimer: I am suggesting this for entertainment only, and do not endorse, condone, or otherwise in any way approve of the techniques shown in this video! 🤪
Good video, are the bearings really “man” enough for the purpose? For comparison, a wheel bearing on a car can easily last 100,000 miles over 10 years without replacement.
Yes, but I like to keep a spare set, just in case. Keep 'em lubed, and there won't be an issue. Time to replace: 3 minutes. Tools: one Allen wrench. I don't remember the price, but you can get the bearings at a local auto parts store. I've never had one seize up on me. Just noticed it was getting a little hotter than it should be.
Dave I have the hd38 but have some issues i don’t understand why its come the washer ok and nut to secure the blade wheels if this are spinning? I have to replace every week the washers i just buy two more from Woodmizer and I dont have this problem...
In general, I recommend people go with the 23 hp Vanguard. I've use one for about 12 years and it has been a solid, reliable power supply. Only problem has been that the carb clogged up with sawdust, and I didn't realize I was running on one cylinder (still cut ok). Once I rebuilt the carb, it was like a new machine. It is easy to add most options to the mill after you've had it a while, but you won't likely want to change the engine once the mill is assembled. Not to say that the 18 hp is a capable engine... it'll just be a little slower through the big stuff.
Should be no problem, unless salt spray is involved. I run the mill with water lube, and never had a problem. If you're not going to use the mill for an extended period of time, you might take the blade off & store it out of the weather. Usually, one or two cuts will wipe any surface rust off the blade. You should at least have a tarp over the mill to keep the sawhead & engine dry.
Hi, Ken. I plan to be releasing videos on a more regular basis, now. Yes, Norwood does sell an electric lift package for the HD36. Go to their web site, scroll to the bottom, and select "Attachments". There, you'll find their "Power Sawhead".
Hi, Steve, thanks for watching and for leaving the comment. I think the longer you use it, the more you'll like it. Any day out at the mill is a good one!
Right now, I'm not collecting sawdust, since I run the mill in an open area and use a blade on the tractor to spread it around. I have attached a bucket to the sawdust chute, but it takes more time to empty the bucket. It does make good compost (except for walnut-- you gotta keep that sawdust away from your tomatoes).
Glad to see you're still making sawdust, how does it compare to the 36? Mine is still running great, put in a kiln for my younger son's furniture shop.
Hi, Wayne, good to hear from you! Three major differences. The main one is that the 38MAX has a 13" depth of cut, which gives more options for splitting and quartersawing logs. Roller guides and electric lift are standard. I plan to convert the old 36 to electric and power it with a wood fueled generator. Keep in touch!
Now you need a good way to offload the boards. I agree, the older I get, the more I look to the engine to provide the muscle. On a side note, I found the song "The Soldier and the Oak" on your channel. Beautifully written, sung, and played! I am from Missouri (not far from Joplin), and a friend of mine actually cut into a civil war rifle barrel with his sawmill. Brought a tear to my eye, and that's not easily done!
The mill requires assembly. It isn't too hard, if you pay attention to what you're doing, but there are a LOT of nuts & bolts. I made a series of videos on the process. Here are links: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E7F1SWyn4nA.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-768C89YNOqM.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gSMm-PVQwts.html
Tension in PSI (pounds per square inch cross section area of the blade) should be the same for a new or "broken in" blade. A new blade will stretch a bit, but the coil spring should compensate for that. If you are consistent in setting the tension, the stretch shouldn't be an issue.
Dave, I've been cutting 2x4s using my Norwood scales and it seems like the lumber is shrinking as it dries. What dimensions should I be using to end up with nominal 2x4s after drying? Is there a general rule of thumb on this?
Air dry, expect around 5% shrinkage in width and thickness, but almost no change in length. If I were going to match store-bought 2x4 lumber (1-1/2 by 3-1/2), I'd mill 1-5/8 by 3-3/4. I assume you're cutting studs for framing. That'll get you close enough. Here's a link to a video on air drying lumber: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-56oQQLmOUOA.html Hope this helps. Good luck with your sawmilling!
La segheria Norwood HD38 può tagliare tronchi fino a 3 metri di circonferenza. Non conosco una segheria in grado di tagliare un tronco di 3 metri di diametro.
@@cristopheraltobranto1999 1 metro di diametro è corretto. Alcune persone confondono il diametro con la circonferenza. 1 metro di diametro = 3,14 metri di circonferenza. Un tronco di 3 metri di diametro avrebbe una circonferenza di 9,42 metri. Non conosco nessuna segheria che potrebbe tagliarne una!
@@cristopheraltobranto1999 No, non conosco segherie così grandi. Per ulteriori informazioni sulle Segherie Portatili Norwood, visita www.norwoodsegherie.it
Hi, Clay, thanks for asking. I do have a few add-ons to the mill. They are 1) trailer package for towing the mill, 2) toe rollers to level the log, and 3) an extra crossbunk between the first and second to mill shorter logs and "cookies". The electric power sawhead lift is standard on this mill, and I sure don't miss cranking the sawhead up and down with a hand crank!
@@ronaldstevens9275 I figured as much... I wouldn't be much help with running a sewmill. As a farm boy, you'll figure it out... just like an old square hay baler, only different.
Thanks for the tips! I'm going to try the Pine-Sol idea tomorrow. When I full throttle my HD38 it doesn't sound like it's running as fast as yours. I think I need to check my throttle.
Hi, David, good to hear from another Norwood sawyer! You might consider getting a tachometer. Also, you might be able to adjust the throttle where the cable comes into the control lever.
