Head to squarespace.com/jimsautomotive to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code jimsautomotive! As you all know, when you support our sponsors, you are directly supporting our channel and future content! We have been a Squarespace customer since 2015!
The amount of specialized tooling in engine building always astounds me. Thanks for another informative video . I likely will never operate this machine but understanding it helps me communicate with my local machinist.
Oh the memories 😍👍. This was my primary duty at the company I worked for ,, besides assembly. A perfect job for the OCD afflicted technician 👉 🤣. Nice work as usual. I wish more people would view your videos. They would soon realize why machine shop work/ labor is as expensive as it is! 🤷♂️ Cheers 🍻, G. In beautiful Boulder City Nv. USA 🇺🇲
It's good for people to see how much work and time actually goes into this operation. That power stroker sure makes it a little easier, I always did them by hand, you have to be much more careful, but I never had a power stroker.
When the next person asks me why I refuse to do design work just good enough, I'm going to refer them to this video. Quality matters and takes time to do it correctly. Great video, keep up the quality work.
I like your trick there with the feeler Guage. The tobin arp cap grinders have an adjustable cap clamp carriage with knobs in each corner.... but your way works just fine with the same quality.... I hate it when the caps get shrunk and drag the threads on them new shiny arp bolts
I rebuilt many rods in my years in an engine shop. We did not have a power stroker on our LBB machine. Made is a lot tougher to keep the rod bores straight and i also bushed many rods. Also a tough job keeping those pin ends straight. We did have an air over hydraulic press to do piston pins and rod bolt...
Hmmn, haven't watched it yet, but that tolerance is rediculous.. I haven't been a turner for a few years so maybe my mind is playing tricks on me, but I think a bearing fit had a deviation of about 5x that!
8:03 very technical procedure hahaha, love your videos hopefully impatient customers see this and realize what they are asking when they say " I need that tomorrow"
I watched the balancing video, then I watched this video. Perfection. I mean, I am impressed. Everytime I watch one of these videos I am really impressed. The equipment your shop has, coupled with the knowledge and know how is really just very impressive. I wonder how much it would cost to rebuild an L5P Duramax, and beef it up a bit ? Probably more than I could afford, but am still curious nonetheless.
Can you guys do a video showing how to setup The AG-300 gauge to check rod’s and how to setup the small end also? I have a new one I want to learn to use!
Another great video guys very interesting, one thing I would say is someone needs to take the cleaner aside and have a word with him about his attitude lol 😂😂😂😂😂
Hey Jamsi Online, I have a question if you have a min to answer.. Where do you get all the sizing specifications and tolerances for each engine? Do you pay for a subscription that gives you a printout for every engine?
"No system of energy can deliver sum useful energy in excess of the total energy put into constructing it. This universal truth applies to all systems. Energy, like time, flows from past to future".
I have the same comment as on your last rod video: You make no mention of confirming the big end and little end bores are square to each other. With rods that have been around for 50 years, you have no guarantee that something hasn't happened to them that you don't know about. So making the big end perfectly sized without checking the rod for square is risky. One of my *former* machinists didn't make that check and it caused me much grief.
One question I have with resizing rods is you have shortened the rod length, what do you do here? is it even worth considering? Because my assumption would be that it lowers compression ratio if nothing else is changed.
@@jeremyking5684 If you take material off both the rod and cap then you end up - initially - with an 'egg' shaped big end hole. But the center of that egg shaped hole is closer to the small end center by the amount taken off the rod and cap. Then didnt say exactly how much they took off other than it was a 'few thousands'. If they took 2 thou off both sides then the center of the egg hole will be 4 thou closer to the center of the small end.
I’ve known the basics of how rods were sized but never seen it done. Question: the machine moves the rod in/out as it rotates, which confuses me. Can you explain what I’m seeing as I understand and am baffled at the same time!
Some fantastic precision work going on there getting them in the .0001 range is mint do u have to get your measuring gear calibrated much? And do u check Ctc measurements as well
One tenth precision is good on that bore, but the lack of consideration of wrist pin bore being parallel with big end negates its precision. Ive seen so many rod bearings worn on one side because of "that" lapping machines inability to keep bores parallel.
Question to the author? Why, after restauration of the connecting rod, did not measure the size between the place of the pin and the place of the connecting rod bearing? When they polished the connecting rod, they didn’t set it up, they didn’t check the distance to the piston pin! It is very important. Can get a different height of the pistons in the engine block! What is especially felt on diesel engines on a cold start. After all, the old connecting rods could beat a little bent.
Another great video! What causes the slight left and right movement of the rod when it is being honed? Is the bore not centered in the rod? And if not, why is it off center?
Enjoy your channel....I wounder if u could explane something 2 me.....why is the rod moving up & down in that machine wile the hone is truing the circle of the big end...? I would think that to make the circle perfictly round...u would want the rod held stationary...(locked in place)...?....what is the reason the machine works like this...?...thank u, reguards Brian
I just got a 454 boat engine so its supposed to be a all forged internal 4 bolt main. With running the numbers its a 289 casting block, crank being 7416 casting makes it a forged cross drilled 1053 steel unit. Engine was stuck when we got it so we was gonna have to bust a piston out of it which we could not do which leads me to believe that it is to forged, although they are not usable in this engine as we have to bore it to get away from from pitting in the cylinder. So that brings me to say is there anyway I could confirm if the rods are forged? I looked for numbers which i could not find.
@@taylorsrus9543 The rods will be blasted and cleaned up by us and stock rod bolts will hold for now. If I go replacing everything it would defeat the purpose of buying this said engine over any regular engine. And I only have 250 in it so far
I would think resizing the rod end weakens it to some degree as you've removed material. Not good for a high performance motor. You put a fair amount of labor into resizing the bottom end. I would have purchased new rods that have been shot-peened and balanced.
