SBC Stroker 500+ Ftlbs! 470+hp *Details in Video* Big Block Torque! 

Wow man really appreciate the support, thank you

Agreed..should have 100;000 subs!

Yes sir thats called dynamic compression. Its where you take the cam timing into consideration.

puttin a 580hp 434 stroker in my s10

That’s nice!, what are you redlining that engine at?

@@hugieflhr03 5800-6000 , i have a full race one i could build that would make 700 turned down n i could turn it 7200

@@hugieflhr03 6500 rpm

The camshaft was /is the same spec as a Jet Sprint Boat out of Australia 20+ yrs ago . Things in engine building have moved on remarkably since then . Carby is a 750 with 50cc pumps from Memory.. !!! Has a gr8 Dart Wilson single plane manifold.

@@robertphillips3078 Not sure what motor you're referring to but the above motor has a Pro-Comp dual plane, air gap, intake manifold.

@@USARAY1947 Mine is a 400 Chevy, converted 2 4 bolt main caps . 427 striker. 11:1comp . Bowtie heads ( steel ) have been extremely well ported . The rocker geometry was race spec . The engine builder did some trick stuff . Happy with its performance. Now days l would go a different route . 441 Windsor with the Hammerhead Performance Hemi Heads . Not sure which manifold .

Your right on that one! Pontiacs are very expensive to build for the power you get. I do have some pontiac stuff coming up

@@cuttersperformance awesome, I'd ove to see some porting tactics and flowbench numbers . Pontiac guys are lol worse than mopar guys , I have a couple books on building pontiacs but no info on what works . Always been a chevy guy but wanted o try a lil something different. I was appalled by the pontiac ports being smaller than an sbc. I knew it would be an uphill battle. Great work man love the channel and info!

Well the valves are still 2.02 and 1.6 and with 388 cubes and a mild roller that would be all around middle rpm cam for a 355 with good heads and compression. This shortblock eats 200cc pretty easily, and is about what 180 ish cc on a 355 would be in comparison. Excellent fat power street combination just like the 355 shown earlier that one has 465 torque!

@@zAvAvAz these heads withy the right valvetrain are good for well over 500 HP because of the head flow but the dual plane helps the big torque. most of the time a 220CC head would make use of a super victor with no issue because of the port sizes. the limiting factors is those hyper pistons and an external balanced 5.7 rodded 383. maybe id run it to 6500 but not much past that..a dart SHP200 top end would be perfect for this short block and the xr288HR the next step up

Sounds like a wild combo!

For sure it would be!

Yes sir. I'm running same set up in a gutted s10. Th350 3200 stall with 3.42 gear. It's a blast but gotta watch the downshift on passing... gets hairy quickly 😁

I have the same set up in a MC. Hoping for 12s

Yeah they were awesome heads! Kinda wish I didn't sell this set haha

Yeah they are great heads but hard to find but given current part supply I had to use up some inventory. But dont worry, im currently working on a set of vortec heads for a future build. Once I can get custom grinds again the dingle ball will also be back!

@@cuttersperformance new to the Vortec heads. Just put a set on my 1973 L82 build. Is it ok to lift the engine with a carb plate on an Aluminum intake manifold? Thanks.

@@andybailey6763 yeah just make sure the bolts all as long as possible into the intake

That would be a real nice combo 👌 expensive as heck but nice haha

@@cuttersperformance yeah, it is overkill for sure, really i like your combo just as good and better for price also. Thank you soo much for this Omazing build it is soo awesome. Really i wish i knew what the ultimate best heads for hand porting are for chevy. Looking at brodix STS T1 cnc 227cc aluminum heads for this, to try to match these excellent prepared EQ heads you have on this thing, its awesome.

its toast, rebuild it before block machining is necessary. i would use a 3.625" crank with 6" rods, and 4 corner deck the block to the pistons with final measurement assembled with pistons barely O.OO3" out top of block. Then a O.O4O" cometic head gasket. Then a hardened comp hydraulic roller cam. And Brodix aluminum heads with smaller valves that fit. Do porting of blended bowls and valve job and seats. cc the heads and pistons to a target 9.75:1 static compression. i forgot what 305 bores to, although i find people say the block is weaker than the 350 because of thinning everywhere. So reinforce the main caps and the lifter valley girdle. Then no worries except weak ass cylinder bores, may want some extra checking out the block and sonic testing. Could fill to 1.5" of bottom of block coolant area with some high heat hard epoxy or block fill or step up to a roller 350 or 400 block. Top with an edelbrock EPS intake. This shall be a great street engine with no hugely noticable diffence from a mild built 355 except maybe even more power :o).

Itll feel like a mild 350 in that jimmy lol

Kinda wish I went the XR288 on this one but I already had the 282 and its certainly a cam i get asked about alot. Sounds like you got yourself a nice combo!

@@cuttersperformance what intake gaskets are you using?

@@6426yy felpro 1206

@@cuttersperformance would the 288hr cam loose torque at lower rpm? Looking to build a very similar engine for my 97 k1500 which one of the 2 cams would you recommend for my application?

@@user-hu2ds2ql9z Smaller one

Ive found with pump gas and power thats its often times better to run abit lower compression and full timing rather than more compression and back off the timing from optional to stop knock. Theres abit of a teeter-toder effect but ignition timing is key

@@cuttersperformance Yes. ignition timing is more important first. adjust compression to work with what the engine wants in the car on a chassis dyno and it shall be closer to the same to as on the dyno stand. And run the best in the car. Stoichometric and lambda to adjust the carb induction so it is not too lean with compression if high.

Yeah for sure! If i had better access to E85 around my area it would be fun to play with. Had to keep this safe for a easy high torque pump gas combo

@@cuttersperformance it would also be interesting to see how much area under the curve could be gained with multi port fuel injection and a timing map that isn't at the mercy of a vacuum advance canister and mechanical advance weights. Thinking terminator x and first tpi or a super ram would just pump up power below peak EVERYWHERE. Then maybe play with some a/r cans with placement dictated by pipemaxx. Nice little 75-125 shot and you'd have a street beast that should go 50,000 miles without too much headache, and enough torque from 1800-2300 to work with 3.45 rear gears and overdrive transmission. It really would be an amazing daily driver build in a third gen or c4, s-10, OBS etc

Ive actually been kinda dealing with the same thoughts lately but more towards a turbo setup with manifolds vs headers. I have built engines that ran with manifolds but have really done any solid testing to say for certain power loss/gain vs headers. My thoughts would be, would a good flowing cylinder head (ported ex port) with a good flowing exhaust manifold be much different than a header on a normal flowing cylinder head? Does is all come down to the savaging? Because a header pipe even 1 5/8 can flow alot of air in comparison to most exhaust ports. Also would adding a X pipe or H pipe to a exhaust system with exhaust manifolds help with the loss of scavenging? Interesting stuff and im sure its very engine/combo specific. Would sure be fun to test out on a dyno

The numbers I’ve seen, shorty headers vs stock manifolds usually are within 5hp of each other. Now those compared to a set of nice big tube long length headers…I’ve seen a 25hp gain on a street engine compared to stock manifolds and shorty headers. At least 10-20hp with long tubes. And hardly anything added or lost compared to shorties and stock manifolds.

Some people swear by the old rams horns with the larger collector. Personally... cast oem manifolds have always worked gloriously for me. I *personally* believe for the street, headers aren't worth the issues. But cubes and big torque keeps me happy on the street.

Ive heavily ported those and even though the bench showed more in the car it ran exctly the same. Bolt bosses are restrictive wouldnt spend much on them Maybe an aggressive extrude hone then call it good

I took a gm zz383 added callies 6 inch h-beam rods JE forged 2 valve flat top pistons had a little head work done to the factory alumunum dast burns added Edelbrock Pro Flo XT multiport EFI and turned 460 hp. & 470 ft. torque and put it in a 2 door Tahoe 4 X 4 and it is a blast to drive. The Edelbrock EFI works Great with a potent 383.

Would work well use a much smaller head due to the weight of the truck youll be glad you did. afr makes a killer 190 vortech

You need a camshaft that is high lift, low duration and wide lobe separation angle for moving that kind of weight. Choosing your cam lift will require you to research the head flow chart so you know the flow numbers for your exact head. Once you find the chart, look at the intakes highest lift and see where that is at what valve lift. Then you pick your cam lift .005"-.010" less than peak flow lift because the exhaust always flows less than the intake and you don't want to get into the excessive valve spring resistance pressure by having more valve lift than what the head can possibly flow. Also if the exhaust port flows less than 75% of the intake port then that is when you should use a split duration cam where the exhaust duration spec is a bit more than the intake. Use 114-112° of lobe separation angle for max cylinder pressure and low rpm torque.

They are certainly rougher than older edelbrocks, but even some of the newer edelbrock ones aren't looking so hot

Are you finding it doesnt have much low end torque right now? To be honest your current setup screams low end torque. Would you consider going to a Hydraulic roller? Dual plane intake being used?

@@cuttersperformance Currently has a Performer RPM intake non air gap and a 750 vacuum secondary holley carb . Yes I am finding it does not have enough low end torque! I am going to pull the motor and re ring it I beleive it has the same ring seal problem as your dingle ball 350 as it is burning oil and hasnt many miles since it rebuild. I was considering a hydraulic roller was looking at the Comp XR 270 cam.

Thats actually a video that ive been wanting to do but I know it will cause alot of grumbles from some people lol. The whole vac advance, ported vs full vaccum debate and how to drop in a distributor seem to be as consaversal as camshaft selection 😄 but I will do a video on how I do it

@@cuttersperformance awesome man! Appreciate it! I know how to do so. But, always like hearing how other people set up their timing.

Stroker 305 engines aren't worth building. A 305 with the Vortec heads or the 305 HO Camaro heads and cam can be a lot of fun.

@@ahoneyman My plan is to boost low end torque with good or better fuel economy and keep the original engine and appearance to comply with California emissions my theory is by lightening the 400 crank and internal balanced rotating mas it should do well in my 91 RS Camaro 5 speed not trying to make 400+ hp the goal is to get close to 300 HP and 350 FT/LB with a ported stock TBI

@@paulburkey2 That's just a lot of balancing and machine work for swirl port heads that are basically done by 4500 RPM. If you just want torque why not a TBI 350 short block? Swirl port TBI 350 heads are like $300 a pair rebuilt. Gas mileage between the 305 and 350 in a Camaro is less than 2 mpg.

@@ahoneyman it's all about California emissions besides most driving is done from 2000 to 4000 RPMs that's the sweet spot for peak torque if I were to buy a 350 engine I would just go with a vortec crate motor and drop a GM performance TBI intake but then I would have to get smog headers to work with those heads would rather keep the stock cast iron so everything appears to be stock again for California emissions

My feeling is that the 305 swirl Port heads actually make good low end torque and can be massaged a bit Port matched cleaned up along with a GM performance TBI intake Port matched for the 650 ported TBI intake

How much power are you looking for? Ive actually never used a set of Rhoades lifters. The theory makes sense but Id love to dyno test a set compared to regular hydraulic lifters

@@cuttersperformance it's going to be a truck for hauling/towing. So low end torque is the most important.

What thumpr cam specifically are you referring to? I will check it out

@@cuttersperformance They come in three sizes thumpr, mutha thumpr, big mutha thumpr. I know, it sounds corny. I was running a thumpr hydraulic roller in my sbc and was really impressed how hard it pulled. When I decided to freshen up the engine I picked the big mutha thumpr because my cr was 10.5-1 and I ported a set of old school bowtie heads. The specs are 243 257 @50, 533 in 519 ex and 107 lsa. Also I will be using solid rollers and experimenting with lash and rocker ratios. I'm curious what a professional engine builder would think. It's a fairly aggressive cam and would need to build an engine around that. All the best.

Im going to agree with you, as typically I would have picked around a 195cc when I build a engine like this (under 500hp) But I also think this engine shows that a slightly too big of head isnt going to have low torque. These are heads that already had and wanted to use them, and maybe other guys out there have heads like this sitting around thinking that cant use them becuase they are "too big" for their combo and they will have low torque. Sometimes the not soo perfect combo turns out pretty good haha, especially when you can find a deal on a set of heads these days. Cheers and thanks for checking out my video!

@@cuttersperformance I looked for these heads, sad that pro top line or RHS is not making these heads. I saw some Internet forums that talked about how RHS bought the old molds for the aluminum heads from pro top line but somehow the cast iron molds got lost. That’s a shame. I remember reading about these heads cast in New Zealand and finished here when they came out. Really a shame rhs build some serious engines back in the day for reasonable costs. I’m gonna look at more builds of yours cause all I have is mild 350’s and they like rpms.

@@cuttersperformance what it shows is inline with what gm did with the ls1, a head that by all accounts appears to big for the rpm range of the engine, matched with a short duration high lift cam will make good usable power with a nice range.

A really good cylinder head will always give you power, especially when matched with the appropriate cam. But if you already have a decent head you might not see a huge benifit going to a AFR. Forged pistons vs a Hypereutectic piston doesnt change power when the same design piston is used, but a forged piston provides more strength. Im located in Southern Ontario Canada 🇨🇦

Id have to check my notes but i believe .005 in the hole

Pretty much 😄

80 to 85 "207" block 2 pc rms

Eagle stroker rods (was an eagle stroker kit) there was lots of clearance to the cam with these rods and a regular base circle cam

@@cuttersperformance Thank You! I learned the hard way that stock PM rods don't clear so I went with Scat rods, which still needed a little bit of clearancing on half of the rods.

What cam were you running with the FT springs ? ... 0.530 lift is not in the extreme for a roller so even a 125 lb.in seat pressure spring should be able to handle 6k ish rpm. what is ure current seat pressure and spring rate ? and to what rpm do u need stability ?

The flat tappet springs were 1.25 inch singles with a damper. They were rated at 115lbs closed, which might have worked, but seemed a little on the light side with the heavy link bar retrofit lifters. I found a deal on some trick flow by PAC springs that are still pretty light weight and have a seat pressure of 150lbs. They should be more than enough to keep the valves under control on a street car with a 6200 rpm red line

So you will hav 350 lbs. or 364 lbs. open pressure assuming a 379 in.lb. spring rate depending what rocker you use , 150 on the seat should be more than enough for what you're doing. I found Lunati's website to be pretty useless , what cam manufacturer doesn't recommend what spring to use with their cams ? Your cam is made of high-grade cast iron with possibly a heat treatment (but who knows w/Lunati ?) so how much seat pressure you can run is anybody's guess and then going to 1.6:1 rockers is even more load at the cam. Lunati does not increase valve lift as they step up in duration with the streetmaster line so what is that telling us ? so do all the cam kits in that line come with the same springs ? is there a spring rate limit for the streetmaster line ? Just in general what is the limit of spring pressure u can run with a standard cast iron roller cam ?

@@mikegillam1000 130 is plenty

Probably 400 to 450 at 2k

415-420. If you want more torque moved down i don't know what to do because you may get less everywhere. Maybe try the edelbrock rpm non air gap or the AFR composite dual plane. Or after the long tube headers, use an empty can or tube or empty muffler as a break after a cross over tube with pipe extending into the can for vacuum, then a smooth transition into pipe into your big block 50 series mufflers at the end or whatever. Would it work? i am do not know. Only testing could say. Maybe a 2.05" valve would work instead of the 2.02". Usually bumps up the low lift if port energy is the same or improved.

I love the old C50s and C60s. I've got a 57 Dodge C.O.E. I've been thinking of adding an old draw thru turbo to my square body tow hauler. It's a 350/400/4.56:1. I need uphill grunt and MPG. This engine looks enticing.

The heads certainly have more potential but that rpm is about right for this cam. If this were a 355 id expect abit closer to 6000 rpm before the drop. Its a great torquey combo with good vacuum and street manners but I think a xr288 would be a slightly better choice for overall power with a higher rpm range.

Looks airflow limited, a single plane intake and higher ratio on the intake rocker would probably allow it to carry to 62-6400 rpm. Question is why? That's a nice combo, set the rev limiter and enjoy it, relatively mild lobes should last longer and not be as expensive to own and operate. It's a good all around street engine. A single plane intake would cost torque at lower RPM, exactly what you do not want for a heavy street car.

@@b.c4066 I've seen combos with less airflow and smaller cams carry peak power higher.... it made great power just weird how it fell off so abruptly. Valvetrain stability issues?

@@roberthollinshead2325 Bet it started to lose valve control. Those fast ramp cams need more spring upstairs. Think its over rated plus you lose longevity, valve job and tips wear quicker etc

Lots of factors can change your idle vaccum a few inches either way: Idle rpm, ignition advance, ring seal, cam degree angle, compression, pcv hooked up, vacuum leaks, temperature and even altitude. 13 to 15 inches is what I expected to get with this cam and thats basically where it was at in the dyno when it was tested I would expect to see 10 to 12 inches with this cam on a 10:1 355

Standard block clearaning for the rod bolts but the eagle stroker rods had tons of room to the camshaft (std base circle). I shoot for atleast .060"

@@cuttersperformance thanks!

Hello! Could you send me pictures pcperformance1@outlook.com

Bill first off you not being a dick by asking questions, questions are how we learn and in the automotive industry...you never stop learning! Everyone seems to calculate C/D differently (average vs max vs max cam lift vs lift over .300) so I will give you the info and you can calculate it the way you may prefer. The flow numbers are in the video and the throat diameters were right around 1.798 with a 2.02 valve with a 11/32 stem. That being said, a guy that tells you that the C/D will certainly determine the output potential of a engine is kinda a myth. Especially with a street/strip engine these calculation get thrown around with guys calculating things differently, different flow benches ect and next thing you know guys are super confused and overwhelmed. Just like this engine was a good example on how a big runner (220cc) will not absolutely kill torque on a 383 as alot of guys will say or think. Intake, cam, compression ratio play much bigger factors in that Thanks for checking out my videos and let me know if you have any more questions

@@cuttersperformance that seems kind of small for a 220 runner, plenty of room to port and grow as the combo changes.

@@b.c4066 your exactly right, these heads are basically untouched. Pretty decent "as cast" head

@@cuttersperformance try a 1.65 or 1.7 rocker arm on the intakes and see what it does. High lift low seat duration seems to be the trend with most hot street hydraulic roller cams now days. Curious is the valve train noise worse than OEM, or impossible to tell with the exhaust you tested with?

I was using a cam that I keep getting asked about. Like I said in the video, the heads have more potential and could make more power with a larger cam but this cam would work great for most guys hotrod cruisers with great drivability and reliability.

@@cuttersperformance I just did a very similar build .030 bore, promax max200 heads, howards 186115 cam, pro products crosswind intake, holley 670 vac sec, 15/8" long tube, you have any idea what power this thing should make ? She sure rips ! And ate my poor little t350 lol

@@cuttersperformance oh and it's 10.5:1

@@chriscarter3654 that would probably a 500hp/500 tq combo

@@cuttersperformance thank you for your time and knowledge, much appreciated. You have great content and you seem like a solid guy.

You're missing the point, just about any 64cc chamber out of the box 195-210 cc 23° head with around a 1.9-2.1 cross section would deliver the same results. Afr 195 enforcer, dart shp, promaxx 210, yada yada

Thats exactly the point, Thanks Bill

Yeah these heads could upposrt a larger cam for sure, but it was a power brake friendly combo, so i went on the mild side to keep the vac aboce 12 inches at idle

Honestly its probably better in the 10 to 10.5:1 range, less fuel octane sensitivity

I might have accidentally said cloyes in the video. Its a cloyes timing set with a Milidon 65555 timing cover

The best budget head would probably be the AFR enforcers

@@cuttersperformance This exact combo... could it run on TPI?

If you kept everything the same, other than it being a 350 or 355. I expect to see a lost in peak torque of probably 20 to 30 ftlbs but similar hp at slightly higher rpm (probably aroubd 5800 to 6000

Thank you

Yeah ive ported several, mostly for port alignment and cleanup. But you can actually get quite a flow increase on the flow bench

@@cuttersperformance Thanks

800 rpm

Hey sorry what engine are you referring to?

@@cuttersperformance hi piss cutter just want to ask you a few questions, have you ever flowed a GM fastburn sbc aluminum head and if so what kind of numbers did it put out,also what would be the ultimate camshaft to get the best performance out of these heads on a 383 or 406 I have both blocks,I know this has nothing to do with this videobut thanks in advance I really enjoy your videos

For sure! Haha

Dart iron eagle 200cc, or a set of afr enforcers would work great

That info is in the video, but just in case you missed it, it was 185 psi

. 060 over

Sorry your not happy with your results Steve Whats the combo?

@@cuttersperformance 11.1 compression promaxx 200 cc heads xr294hr cam and edlebrock super victor intake

382hp/423ftlbs on a engine or wheel dyno?

@@cuttersperformance engine, something's way off it should make 450 hp. I ll figure it eventually. I had my torque and hp numbers backwards 423 hp

Yeah for sure 450 easily! Let me know if you figure it out. You got my curiosity haha cam degree? Weak valve springs? Ignition timing issue?