Cheap 400HP SBC Vortec Head Combo! 

Hell yeah man! Race on! 🏁

@@brandonbell8159 - Careful build with this cam and 1.6 rockers should dyno around 435 HP...

Oh yeah, the stay true comp 270 cam. Great cam on the street and track for sure a very stout 355. Has anyone ever seen the AFR 195 eliminators on a sbc 355 dyno with the comp 270 and 280 magnum cams? They can be very impressive cams with high flowing efficient heads. Then again they are like the baseline cam of all cams. The bar all modern cams are set by.

Do you have any videos of it on your page

can’t build it like you did 20 years ago when u where younger those knees don’t work how they used too god bless

@@rockfordhx2768 You are correct, God bless

Its simple and it works! Thanks for the positive feedback Race on! 🏁

@@cuttersperformance So im guessing with that Camshaft you have to run a Stall converter if using an auto trans?

@@lindajones1592 Providing it has low end enough to start moving without hesitation at stall- Depends on your idle while car is in drive. You could get away with a comp 260H10 , 268H10, 270H10, XE262H10, an XE268H10, a 265 deh, XE250H10, XE256H10, The question is, depending on the idle in drive, when does it start to pull through your brakes at a stop sign or red light? And depending on stall and gearing, when does it start to bog off the line under part throttle or even wide open throttle from a stop and shudder at trying to pull the car forward when it cannot get started moving ?. Even though any of these cams could use a stall converter that stalls at near peak or first high area of torque rpm on the dynograph, at the track. Some have used an XE274H10 & vortec heads with stock converter on youtube, even though a 2500 stall works at the track well. They had low idle while in drive tuned well. my opinion is that every cam could use a 2500 converter even a stock one. Also depends on your gearing, The ones using XE268H10 and XE274H10 cams had 3.73 gears. And a red 2nd gen with a 270H10 had 4.10 gears and stock converter. But even if your not moving on your brakes, if it is tugging against your brakes , they are going to be worn out in short order and the hubs too, eaten in a week or 2 or a few days. And the idle will be going crazy like a freight train that doesn't want to stop all the way into the middle and through the intersection, it will tug drag your car there standing on the brakes and even locking up the front tires it will push your car where you don't want to go. And through water puddles, down hills past the stop sign, etc. So stall. You can use a tight nitrous style converter with a high stall speed that is between stall and unstall. This shall allow your car to have neutrality but start moving the car sooner under part throttle and be more efficient than a high stall without this design.

Thanks brother! I appreciate that

Thats awesome! Can't get a better set of heads for the money! 👌 Cheers!

I almost have a'll the parts here and there to build this. Winter project

I appreciate the positive feedback! Race on! 🏁

Hell yeah brother! What cam did you use?

EnginePro MC1995. 488/509. 234

O that's a pretty serious cam, I bet it sounds pretty sweet. How much compression are you running?

@@cuttersperformance Best calculation is around 10.3 to 1. I also used a 5.7 liter block so it isn't exactly the 355

Good enough for me I’m in the same boat but stick bottom end

Thanks brother! Be sure to hit that subscribe button to get notified for upcoming videos Cheers!

Hell yeah! Thats awesome man, if you can find a deal like that on a good set and do most of the work yourself...you can really end up with a really good set of heads for the money

May need to clearance domed pistons a bit with a newer heart shaped combustion chamber...

Haha! Everyone is jealous of your non cracked vortec heads for $100

Hey pat what's ur email it's not popping up for me I'd love to grab some of those valve springs etc I'm running a 98 vortec 5.7 in my 02 s10 I have 50 bucks in the engine and running a t5 behind it and getting ready to buy a camshaft

Man🔥 I wanna see that run!

@@kurrentevent I know right, when I ran it, it did low 11. I don't have anything to put the engine in now. It's just sitting in my garage with many other things.

Your the third guy thats asked recently about Schneider cams, I haven't personally used them but maybe I should try one? Thanks for the support! Cheers

@@cuttersperformance I new an engine builder in the 80's that used them. That was in dirt track cars though. They're old school. May be old school grinds.

Ya man no lie.Brother just built the same motor and posted A video.Pushed 418hp.Did it with A 540 carburetor omg my jaw hit the flow in amazement.

Shoot me email pcperformance1@outlook.com

108 LSA and just pump the brakes

The one in the video is 906 but the original engine combo i built the first time was a 062 head

Yeesir 🏁🏁🏁

Thank you! Send me a email pcperformance1@outlook.com

@@cuttersperformance Interested in spring kit.

Still doing the spring kits?

Awesome to hear! like i said in the video, this cam isnt the "perfect cam" but dont let anyone tell you there is such thing as a perfect cam haha This combination just works...works better than i thought it would. When it hit the dyno i was quite happy for such a basic cheap setup. Ive seen 383s with aluminum heads make less power to the wheels than this set up did The 1107 is more of a nitrous cam i believe with a wide LSA.

Summit, Jegs, Melling, and basic level cams from most cam companies all made by same company in S.W. Michigan... so go where price is lowest... currently Jegs... Summit K1107 is a 500 HP cam and not such a good matchup to Vortec heads that peter out by 425-450 HP... unless modding the heads for all out racing... going 11.5-12.5:1 compression ratio...

Yeah thats very true but you for sure hear alot of guys just rounding up haha

I've had the Mexican vortecs flowed and ported and they seemed to flow about the same Not sure if they are thicker though 🤔

Hell yeah brother!

@@cuttersperformance what's your email?!?!?

062 on 327 right on I have 882 but I do have sum 062 I'd like to install

Check out my "Saturday night special" engine It uses a 276 roller cam that will give you similar results ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-azfEkq1Prto.html

Saturday night special is the combination I really like 👍

Stock deck isn't gonna see .20 in the hole

Yes I understand, stock is around.025 to .027. I’m just saying if the block was square decked to 9.020 the compression with summit pistons with 6cc valve releif and a .027 thick head gasket comes out to 10.1:1 according to summit calculator. It seems the math is off and it’s important to know what it is

Should be between 9.5 to 10:1 depending on your deck clearance and head gasket thickness If your shooting for a quench around .050 you will be closer to 10:1

@@Hobo-Henry my pistons on stock deck measured .045.

@@ethanrobinson649 the factory piston pin height for a 350 piston is 1.560 some rebuilder pistons are 1.540 adding a extra -.020 to piston to deck clearance so with a undecked block 9.025 deck height you end up around -.045 in the hole. The math is stroke 3.48 divided by two plus rod lenght 5.7 plus piston pin height 1.560 = deck height 9"

idk seen my fair share of overheated 062 heads cracked like crazy.

Shoot me a email! Let me know what your looking for Pcperformance1@outlook.com

Personally I haven't done any 4.3 builds. I can't seeing it being much cheaper in the long run but it probably depends on your hp goals ect

The pushrod length shouldn't change much from the original ones but needs to be verified once you have the vortec heads installed. The rocker arms, you'll want to use the vortecs self aligning rocker arms. These rocker arms should only be used up to .480 lift as they are not long slot

My beehive spring kits provide up to .580 lift without any seal to retainer clearance issues and no cutting the guides down I've used them in many builds and they work great!

@@cuttersperformance do you still provide the beehive spring kits?

down So I can use big block triple springs 👍

Use a head gasket that will give you between .040 and .045 quench (or piston to head clearance) if you need to run a .015 steel shim make sure you head and deck surfaces are good. But if the block has been decked you shouldn't need a shim gasket

Yeah you could do this build with a 400, but you'd want dished pistons to keep the compression down. I will actually be doing a 400 Vortec build this winter for my channel

You can get away with 11:1 on pump gas if you keep the Dynamic compression down around 8.2 (cranking psi of around 180). So thats where the cam choices plays the biggest factor. Some pocket porting would be great idea on those vortecs, I will be making a video on that in the upcoming weeks

Typically the general idea is you want a cam that favors the exhauat on a vortec head. Is that cam the perfect cam? No because there no such thing as the perfect cam but I can tell you this combo works well! 👍 Race on!

Check out my latest video 11:1 vortec ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uK-qpiFkasA.html

Few questions that might help 1) are you running the stock l31 cam? 2) for sure flat tops? L31's have dished pistons normally

@@cuttersperformance Cam Duration @ .050 in.: Intake 191 / Exhaust 194 Cam Lift: Intake 0.414 in. / Exhaust 0.428 in. Lobe Separation Angle: 112 lsa Pistons are same as in video

@@frankhershman7253 i recently put a vortec combo into a vette that had a cam similar to yours and it made 317 hp 400+ tq. You add a larger cam similar to meiling (springs and rockers to support), plus a set of long tube headers you'll be 360+ hp. Pull those heads, port the exhaust real well or add 1.6 exhaust valves (or both), 1.6 rockers and a 1 inch open carb spacer on that 2116 intake. 375+ hp

@@cuttersperformance sounds like an easy plan. I'll give it a try. FYI Flow numbers EX IN 100 51 62 200 96 134 300 137 184 400 155 224 500 164 232 600 169 236 question - have you ever added 4 bolt main caps to a 2 bolt block?

@@frankhershman7253 yeah you can get the 4 bolt caps and have it lined honed but i honesty wouldn't worry about it. I have a few decently powered two bolts kicking around (1pc rms blocks) one in particular is a vortec headed 355 that was originally build as a decent NA build but now he has gotten me to add a torqstorm supercharger. This thing hauls now! 6500 rpm and pushing 500+hp. Cast crank, pm rods and hyper pistons! Its gone a whole season now without a whimper Food for thought haha Also you can get almost 200 cfm out of the exhaust on a vortec with a 1.6 exhaust valves and porting

Mild cam, valve springs and a tune would help quite abit. Bolt on mods like header, exhaust and intake will also help especially if your getting a good computer tune done

8 inch

@@cuttersperformance thank you I really appreciate it I've learned so much watching your videos. 🏁🏁🏁

@steelcitycaprice.899 another vortec build dyno video coming up soon

I always recommend some slight porting on vortecs if your running close to or over .500 lift. The larger cam will help but some pocket porting and some chamber work does wonders. I think you will be fine with high octane with as long as its kept cool and tune properly. I run 87 on my truck at 10:1 woth vortec heads with no pinging

@@cuttersperformance Thanks for your vids! You're helping make my dream truck a reality. I'm reusing the 350 block in my 93 Sierra Z71 but I'm slapping some new performance Vortecs from Clearwater on it (everything is going to the machine shop). Gonna use a low/mid-range flat tappet setup from Comp Cams (12-256-4). My question for you is what do you recommend for compression ratio? I want to squeeze as much power/torque out of this setup while keeping the smooth idle, strong vacuum, and run it on 87 gas. I'm concerned with 110°F+ summers in Phoenix and detonation. I will also be connecting the intake to the cold air port above the passenger side wheel well.

Cam timing plays a big role in fuel sensitivity (dynamic compression). Basically the later the intake valve closes (more aggressive cam) the more compression you can run on pump. Being that its a pretty mild cam, I would shoot for around 9.5 to 9.7:1 compression with a tight quench. You should have no issues on 87 octane as long as it tuned properly Cheers!

SUM-17350C-30

Heres a video on how to check for max lift without special tools Also make sure the seals are all the way down on the guides ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FMQVxcQYHgw.html

Yeah I was also surprised when he called me to tell me how happy he was after the dyno... but vortec heads work quite well haha

By the time you take the lash out of the LT1 cam you're down to his hydraulic cam recommendation size... www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/200105/10002/-1

@@BuzzLOLOL The Hydro grind may have a more modern lobe design but, the LT1 solid cam (Elgin E904P) is rated at 242/254 @ 0.050" lift on a 116 LSA. Suggested lash is 0.020". So, nowhere near 224/234 @ 0.050" on a 114 LSA. A difference of 15* overlap at 0.050". It's very possible the JEGS grind would still beat it on a dyno, but the basic numbers don't suggest they'd behave similarly.

The LT1 350 (solid) and L46 350 (hydraulic 224/224) gave almost identical numbers: www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1001-muscle-car-engine-shootout www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/sucp-1003-classic-chevy-small-block-dyno-testing

@@of_lion22 - The LT1 350 (solid) and L46 350 (hydraulic 224/224) gave almost identical numbers: www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1001-muscle-car-engine-shootout www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/sucp-1003-classic-chevy-small-block-dyno-testing

Nitrous sir" will do the trick or convert to e85 and you'll acquire a ton of power.

If it were me I’d just change injectors to the ones they used on the caprice police interceptors. Or something bigger in general

i dont have exact numbers but when i switched from a spider to a air gap dual plane on my truck the difference was huge! throughout the whole power band

So with a 327 because of the short stroke you got to make sure you get the right pistons or your going to end up with a low compression ratio. You could put in a regular flat top and end up with less than 9:1 becuase of the deck height and compression height of the piston

@@cuttersperformance Well I guess I better stick a scope in the hole and see what I have. She runs fantastic and I wasn’t going to do any other work than heads and cam

@@lo1dakota 327 video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-79WTx0f37wo.html

Id have to go back on my notes but I believe the quench wasnt ideal. .012 in the hole. -7cc piston, .040 (4.100) gasket, with a 64 to 65cc head, should give you around 9.7 to 9.8 or so

@@cuttersperformance hey man thanks a ton! this is super helpful info to me!

I would have used a 501SD Felpro Head gasket on that one I would have to pull out the build sheet for exact specs

Anything that compresses to .039 like Felpro 1043

As far as deck clearance. Go as close to zero deck on the piston you can. Decking the block helps a lot. Find a good machinist & see what is recommended.