That last and vey important step ( smooth the surface with sand paper) is what I should say should be done with the same machine, so not wearing so quickly a brand new originals oem braking pads, that for sure star an unevem surface again an so on , and you will realize that changing brand new rotors is cheaper amd ypu always have a brake sysytem with fuul power ready for any braking emergency. I appreciate this good video, and good luck
What an interesting process. Are there any special precautions for AWD vehicles? I know they don't like to rotate wheels at different speeds, does that still apply when both wheels are off the ground?
Take prop shaft out should be ok as one wheel just turns in different direction than the other Make sure front is not connected to rear diff all will be ok
This is a fascinating and very well produced video, thanks for creating it. Regarding inverting the lathe for the other side of the vehicle... AIUI, the lathe produces a non-directional cut. It would need to rotate the left-hand rotor anticlockwise otherwise. Inverting the lathe won't change direction of rotation, so is this done purely due to mirrored / non-parallel suspension geometry? If so, why doesn't the machine compensate for this on the other side when attached to the hub?
It is simply because the cutter head will not fit. The cutter head has to go where the caliper was, since we move it to the other side, it would be hitting the backing plate. Inverting it allows for the cutter to go where that caliper was.
Cost of equipment (I guess $ 5000) = cost of new brake discs ($ 45-150 = +/- $ 75 or 66 work done) = time cost of service = customer satisfaction (new or refurbished)
The cost is actually around $10K. I got a pro-cut 2.0 from a guy that worked at Les Schwab for$650. Here's an example of why I need it. 90-97 Honda rotors are captive. You need to remove the hub to get the rotor off to replace it. Takes 30-45 minutes to turn the rotors on the car or 3 hrs to change rotors! Can't think of other specific captive rotors, but there are quite a few.
@@Roger-eh7ez now that bidden is press the price is up 5 gs 15 grand sell price brand new now Edit my thoughts where damn i want one After seeing cost now ehh i think the shop bench lathe will suffice lol
shoudnt have to use the sand paper the pro cut creates a non directional cut so really you dont need to sand the rotors. if you notice when the pro cut is in use it slightly moves which creates the non directional cut. but other than that good video
Good for mobile services, but I could remove a caliper, bracket and rotor in less than 10 minutes and on my lathe and resurfacing by 12 minutes. If you're using this at a shop, it's not as efficient and heavy duty for continuous daily use.for $14,000. You better be charging a good penny too. No point in having this expensive machine and charging normal price for a brake job. I just bought a $20,000 dismount machine, trust me I'm charging you extra to use it. Not going to charge you $15 for a flat repair. LOL. In California, with this machine I'm going to charge at least $280 on labor alone for the front. And you better pray you don't have EPB on the rear cause it's going to be more. I'm not investing thousands in technology to charge crap.
Looks like too much work for on-car. Someone with less skill or badly calibrated machine can ruin the rotor anyway. I see in the comments, people do have positive points about it. But what if the rotor was installed not on the clean surface and so on.. It is always better to take it off and clean inside. + for the customer, save some now, it can rust-in even more. Especially for mazda I would want to pull that rotor off and clean inside. They sometimes rust-in badly, to the point of need to cut that rotor to remove..
I was just thinking that too (this just now showed up in my recommend video list). It seems that even a loose wheel bearing could screw this up, and it's a make work project if you have to completely re-adjust the entire lathe for each wheel, costing the customer more.
The Honda dealership, where I worked as a mechanic, purchased a Pro Cut lathe 25 years ago. It does such an amazing job, with no run out, that soon after they purchased a second one. This lathe became a required tool at GM dealers. With practise it becomes easy to use, about 40 minutes for two rotors start to finish and an absolute guarantee there will be NO brake vibes. You can not come close to this degree of accuracy using a conventional lathe. Get out of the stone age and admit that there might be a better way. OR continue to do inferior work.
GoneInSixtySeconds I’ve used this before in a high volume shop and I disagree. If you watched a similar video on a regular lathe the time to explain would be about the same. Just like a regular lathe, once you’ve done it a few times it goes by very fast. In a very large shop, consider the time spent walking back and forth to the lathe vs all the work happening right in your bay. Also, you compensate for and runout in the hub this way.
More precise for reduction of lateral runout than a bench lathe can get you on newer vehicles. It also gives the ability to turn larger diameter rotors than a bench lathe can. Even heavy duty trucks and box trucks.
