For removing large amounts of metal, it is recommended to work against the direction of the grinding stone. For finer and more accurate work, grinding with the direction of the wheel is advised
Hi Cliff, great to see you back in the shed making some swarf, even if tiny bits. After what you have been through it must have been a tonic! Great start to the new chapter, you now have some well ground tools to aid the re-building work. Cheers, Jon
Great review Cliff, it looks like a great addition. I had the big green Tormek and got it maybe twenty odd years ago at the Axminster Power Tool show in Exeter. Was fantastic for flat edge and turning tools and would still have it now except I sold it and replaced with the Sorby Pro Edge a couple years back. I would recommend making or acquiring a diamond dresser as you suggested I believe it does make a difference. As someone else said yes they soak up a lot of water. With regard to the stone grader it’s my understanding you need to apply a fair bit of pressure onto the stone for maybe 15-20 seconds. I used to rest mine against the metal support and push it into the wheel quite hard to regrade. This was how the Tormek rep said to do it. Presume it’s the same with the sheppach . Anyway good luck with it so nice to have sharp tools.
Hi Cliff.Glad you like the machine, if even not a Tormek.In my experience as a self taught woodworker you see a new world when after working with dull tools for many years you happend to discover what a sharp tool can do.Getting better.Thank you.
Hole drilled Square, I think I know what you mean. I have the Tormak version, it’s somewhere in the shed, they do soak a lot of water up, have to be careful in winter ya stone don’t freeze
Wow. That’s was unexpected. The stone soaked up an incredible amount of water. Shame about the wobble in the stone. Overall looks like a very useful machine. 👏👏👍😀
Cheers Rob, my chisels have not looked so good since they left the factory! never been one of my strong points, too keen to get on with what I've been using them on! 🙂ATB Cliff
Hi Cliff I had the same problem with the chisels not sharpening square even if you pushed the chisel right up against the stop and like you I had to tap the chisel to get it square. The tool rest can be moved to the other side of the machine when you are using the honing wheel but this relies on you being able to access both sides of the machine. Good to see you back doing something other than clearing up.
Interesting! I just use a set of 3 diamond plates and then a leather strop with a little polishing compound on it, just putting on one angle, no bevel, mostly copying the methods of Paul Sellers from his RU-vid videos and almost never using a grind stone. Some of the RU-vid folk like to use mdf wheels in a grinder or fixed down drill with polishing compound, but for the amount of sharpening I do, the diamond plates work well and the edges I get easily cut paper. My biggest sin is carrying on when I know the edge has been compromised rather than stopping to sharpen, so I can see the advantages of having something setup that is little effort to use and gives quick results. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing your initial experience with this device. Had been wondering if this style of sharpener were worth purchasing. Looking forward to more adventures as you progress with your shed rebuild.
Shouldn’t the grinding wheel rotate away from the sharp tool edge ? In the video it’s working towards the edge which would move the grit against the sharping ?
Hi Cliff, I have subscribed as I enjoyed your approach to the 300vs. Have decided that I will get one asap. I reckon that unless you have the dosh for a Tormec then you have to and can put up with the machine's foibles and such given time and experience. Now to watch your other vids. Bob (Weston super Mare )
