Thank you Jim for such an educational video. I have been watching your videos for years, and I can say that this is by far one of your most educational videos. I was able to actually see where to hook up the hoses to the low side, and through the high side shrader valves. Since you were there you went ahead and reclaimed the refrigerant. Everthing made sense at that point. I hit a learning curve. This is one of my favorite videos, because I learned so much on this one video alone. Thanks again Jim.
Hello Mr Jim just wanted to tank you for all of your great videos I'm new in this trade one year of field experience. and I got to say you have helped me ALOT I have put to use many of the things I've seen in your videos. thank you for Charing your knowledge and just say that I always look forward to watch your next video
Hey Jim great video i use a lot of dryers with flare fittings also have used imperial Eastman flaring tool for 30 years until i bought a yellow jacket number 60278 flaring tool it burnishes the face like a mirror.I just use a little refrigeration oil and tighten real snug check one out i think you would like it.You have the best videos on you tube have a good day keep up the great work.
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us .!!!!!! I have use your knowledge in my job ! I have not seen new videos and I believe that it is too cold in Ohio! Thank you again
Ive shared this with Nor-Cal but, R-22 has a beautiful drop in 422D, similar pressures (bout 1-2 psi difference) and you can drop it in with existing R-22 units, that still contain mineral oil, or R-22. Just tossin in a suggestion, great video!
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Nice work Jim as always! Here in the UK most refrigeration compressors would have rotalock valves, makes for easier replacement should it be needed, though brazed is better from a leak potential point of view.
Jim I'm a young HVACR tech and my father owns the business. We do mainly cooking equipment repair for commercial restaurants. I service all of our walk ins and freezer walk ins. I love your videos but when I go out to a job specifically jobs where I find that my trouble may be inside the TXV on setting superheat or my charge isn't correct I freeze up and it's hard for me to figure out the problem. I feel like I run into valves that "hunt" a lot. Where my temperature entering the Evap on the capillary tubes changes a lot from say 28*F-33*F and my exiting temps close to my bulb for my TXV go from 38*f - 48*F. I had those exact ranges today on a dual Evap r22 system. I would have bubbles in my sight glass one minute and then they would go away. Also my suction line back to the compressor would ice then thaw. I suspect I may be low on charge but the glass clears sometimes and confuses me. Any help sir would be greatly appreciated. I've watched your videos several times.
That's the one of 2 of the same compressors that's in 7 ton carrier a/c unit. Man, those scrolls I guess have some range. 3.5 ton high temp on med temp box. Yep, should work. Kill it with some Horsepower ! Prob. Btu's drop off pretty good at a 20 degree suction.
No it is not the compressor that has a range at lower temperatures the compressor puts out less BTU s as you need more BTU to reach lower temps .same loses capacity.
@@southsidecontrolsupplyco.3668 I'm thinking he had lost half its capacity on the scroll. At 45F Ev./130F Co. his scroll had a rated capacity of 40000 BTU/HR. I bet running a 20-25 degree evap coil lost half if not a little more capacity down to maybe 15,000 BTU/HR. If I had to guess which tecumseh compressor he had since it was single phase I'd say it was an AH model just a newer run. Maybe an AHC2466ZFZ ? Similar displacements but capacity is a little off. Hard to know where the scroll lands at in capacity since it was designed for air conditioning. Low suction gas volume back to that scroll could kill the windings. Wonder how it's doing today.
Great videos Jim! I wonder in your travels around N. Ohio doing refrigeration, do you find many roof top cond. units oriented facing N. or E.? I would enjoy seeing you educate some techs(or installers) on why on a 95+ deg. day 20+ mph winds a w/in freezer wont pull down after a defrost cycle.(and no mechanical faults) HVAC techs don't get this, if not trained properly.
thanks I did all that is not grounded the unit has 2 compressors first stage and second stage I switched second stage to first stage I does the same I thought it was the contactor but is good the other compressor reads 1.8 ohms and runs both are scroll compressors from a newer Lennox roof top unit
The insulation of the windings may be degraded and only when power is applied the insulation fails. Your can test this with a megger. I would disconnect ONLY the compressor in question and check the unit does not trip if it does you need to look elsewhere. I think you would have been better off swapping the wiring from the first stage to the second not the other way around to confirm the integrety of the first stage circuit. :)
Jim, In one of your videos, " best buddy" an a/c compressor change out, you recovered and reused the r22 refrigerant, are you concerned about acid and or contaminates introduced back into the new compressor. I noted you changed the liquid line filter/dryer. I know on a burn out replacement the refrigerant is so acrid smelling I would be afraid to reuse it. whats your advice. I always enjoy watching your videos, you never cut corners on workmanship[.
HI JIM I WAS WORKING ON REACHING COOLER EVERYTHING IS RUNNING SMOOTH EXCEPT THERE IS ICE AT THE BOTTOM OF DRAINING PAN BUT NONE ON THE EVAPORATOR..WHILE THE DRAINAGE IS FINE ...ANY SUGGESTION TKXS
a stupid question: have you ever opened up a sanyo fridge up? model sr1150. im also a Hvacr guy. this is the fridge i have in my cabin and doesnt work. i never seen one like that before.
good video Jim I'm learning more thank you I have question a/c compressor R410a 3 phase 208/230v I check the ohms all three read 0.8 and trips the breaker I switched wires from the stage 2 to stage 1 and trips breaker stage 1 is the compressor in question thanks.
the ohms are good on your 3 phase compressor. On any 3 phase motor the ohms should be the same across all the 3 legs. Next you need to check each leg to ground.....put one meter lead on one of the compressor terminals and one lead on ground or the the body of the compressor. If you read ohms between the two points then you have a grounded compressor. Also you need to isolate your condenser fan motor from the circuit. The condenser fan might be shorted causing the breaker to trip as well.
Check the breaker and wirer going to the equipment is this a package unit you might have to check the rotation put gauge on system if it's going wrong direction switch 2 leads check contractor you might have use a meger
If the compressor valves are leaking suction pressure should be high right? But your evap. pressure was low. I was thinking maybe the TXV was stuck or some kind of restriction on the liquid line. I could't really understand trouble shooting part but It is a nice repair.
@@JamesPettinato With the hot gas running backward into the suction line, wouldn’t it be the discharge valves leaking? If that system doesn’t equalize because of a tight shutoff TXV, it will need a start capacitor and relay. Did you cut the compressor open to find the valve that was leaking?
I am not a fan of Teflon on threads on the flare fitting, however, the use has been explained in other videos (I like the videos) and it's debateable. Anyway, I thought it would have been useful to have put oil on the threads so the tightening is smooth and doesn't bind, possibly giving a false sense of snugness. Yes, on leak test, could be detected, but thought it would be worth the comment. BTW, yesterday, I was on an AC job found previous tech put Teflon on the schrader valve threads. On the tape subject, there are mostly two things I see overused in the field, Teflon tape and black tape.
I used to put a very light layer of leak lock on the flare face, but nothing is needed on the threads, as they don’t help with the seal, they just hold everything together. BTW, I would have mounted that filter dryer to the base plate of the unit instead of just laying there with no support.
Mr Jim, been watching your vids for a year or so, theyre great. just always a bit picky with you saying reclaiming. Youre actually recovering. reclaiming is done at the factory when they recycle it into some new stuff. Not a big deal, you can say what ever you desire haha but anywho have a beer can cold day!
Years ago (early 90's) we had a recovery machine made by a company called Refrigerant Reclaim, so we used to call it the reclaim machine, i still end up using the two terms interchangeably (though incorrectly as you point out)
Thanks for the input Jim! We currently have (6)six walk-in coolers that are running with R-22, and have 14 year old Heatcraft condensing units. Wondering whether we should retrofit to R-407F, or replace the condensing units with maybe R-134A. Now I hear they want to phase out R-404A.
go with R 407F, it works just like R 22. Check the oil in the compressors, if it's POE your good, if not add 15 -20% POE to each compressor over the existing oil.
It is a HFC so needs POE oil but will work with a residual mineral oil content mixed in with the POE. I have a few vids where i change the compressor oil once and then run the system on R407F.
