I was in the Army and we trained on simple Mil-dots with M-24 rifles. I never envisioned that reticles would be so busy that they are almost obscuring the target LOL. If I go out, a simple laser range finder is sufficient and I check my dope book for the holdover shot. Fast and easy and I can be assured my target will still be there.
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing. I’m turning 60 soon, and decided to take up shooting as my new hobby and passion. I’ve been doing lots of research on scopes. I’ve pretty much decided on a Leupold scope that has the Tremor 3 reticle. Watching your video just confirmed my decision was the right one. Thanks!
I've got a mk 5 hd that fits that description, and it's good glass. A christmas tree helps a lot when you need to be able to handle targets at multiple ranges, since you can dial a solid baseline and remember the holds for the rest of the targets, and when you hold above a target, you can still hold laterally for wind, which is key.
For me personally I use the Leupold for hunting because I won't shoot past 400 but have been using a Vortex for precision shooting at the range between 600-1000 on paper and so far I love it. Great video thank you for sharing it.
Thanks for that. I am building an ar10 .308 so im exploring the scope ideas. Never used one and know nothing about them. Just learned more with this one video than i thought I would. I really didnt understand what all that mess in the reticle even mean. Now I have a much better understanding. still got a ways to go but i feel better about it now. thanks again.
I use the Vortex EBR-2C reticle in MOA. I feel there are so many shooters who don't utilize the full potential of the reticle. Combine that with your rifles ballistics, and it's amazing how accurate you can be. 🤘
Great video. Would have saved me time researching this for myself years ago. I find it funny though: most people's go to argument for continuing to use an MOA scope today is that 1/4 MOA is more precise than 0.1 MRAD, yet in the MOA reticle the first hold is at 2 MOA (0.6 MRAD) where the first hold for the MIL scopes (aside from the original mildot designed in the 80's) is 0.5 MRAD. I'm not actually making an argument for or against either, just pointing out that that particular argument holds no water unless the glass matches the resolution of the knobs: most important thing is that your knobs match your glass (I just learned this week that military mildot scopes on the M24 from the 1988~2014 had MOA knobs: this is heresy, it should not have happened, and I feel bad for anyone who had to live with that evil! I grew up thinking that this was just really cheap scope companies making scopes with MOA tooling because the company didn't want to invest in MRAD tooling: I had no idea Leupold was producing this insanity for our servicemen!). Unless you really love math, pick one or the other!
Back when I tried to join the Marines in January of 2002, they used a fixed 10 power mildot scope and they only recommended you get a Mildot Master. I never did pay much attention to the Mildot Master until later and when I learned how to use it, I was glad that I got one. But in terms of scopes, I always stuck with the simple mildot based reticles. That's all you really need and just remember to use the entire reticle instead of just part of it and you'll be fine.
Most higher end scopes offer performance that most people never use. Most people will sight in a scope at 100 yards and hope they can hit targets further out. Its like any other tool: learn to use it or use it incorrectly.
I wouldn't say "most".. If people are interested enough in a scope to pay $2k for it... then you can bet that they're going to be interested enough to learn how to use it--- at least watch videos about it... hints why we're here. lol
@Rectify Custom Guns Over here they (Rich elite hunters) just buy what the Gunshop tells them what the best is. Then they buy the Smidt and Bender or Swarovski, zero it in at 100 meters and that is it. most have no idea of how these scopes work. it's all about status.
Wtf are you even talking about. There's a reason you zero your optic at whatever specific range. Consistency. Are you sighting in your scope for every distance? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Correction on the basic mil dot reticles. They did not come out in the early 90s. I used them on USMC sniper rifles (M40A1) going back to 1983, and I believe they had been around even earlier.
From one vet to another vet I thank you for your service, I subbed to your channel after you explained to me about all those little lines, something I had no knowledge of on how to count them out, and their values, your explanation was easy for me to grasp, thank you again for your service
Great video of the reticle breakdown. I too teach the breakdown of reticles for quick engagements for military and for hunting. I use Training Sights as well during my class on how to use the holdover and for correction shots.
Awesome breakdown.. I run a Cabela Covenant 7 5-35x56. Great scope for my 6.5 and I have another on my 7mm Remington Mag also.. Once a newbie understands these concepts, misses decrease rapidly!
Thought to my self this afternoon I'm going to learn how to use an mrad scope. This is the most informative vid I have seen, You are an absolute mine of information. Liked and subbed. Thank you .
You need to begin with a definition: a mil scaled reticle is a means to measure distance to target and can also be used for a bullet drop compensation function. For ranging just multiply target size in yards times 1000 equals X and then divide X by target size in mils equals yards to target. For bullet drop compensation function just zero scope to a placeholder distsnce and then transcribe bullet drop in mils to range card from zeroed distance to greater distances off a trajectory calculation for your bullet/velocity. That’s it.
That's what I was thinking. Once the mil breakdown is explained on the first couple it doesn't need to be explained again and again - basically the whole video was one of repeating the same basic information, which becomes tedious and redundant, rather than explaining how those measurements are put to practical use.
On my hawke scope is on 10x zoom one midot 10 cm on 100 meters. The pellet drop is 50 cm @ 100 meter on my fx wildcat , to hit the target shoot 5 mildots higher.
I’m a fan of the Leupold duplex (didn’t even make the list). Where I hunt the shots are under 250 yards, most under 100, and often the deer are moving. I may only see the deer for four or five seconds. At dawn & dusk the FireDot is a huge plus.
@6:21 it looks like you made a mistake.. that should be 3mils in .2mil subs. I've never even used a NF scope, but I can see the tree is to aid in the windage and the marks above are saying 3 not 2 mil.
Great explanation...I'm going to transition from MOA to MRAD just because of the numbering convention. Also, I really appreciated the explanation of the Horus reticle. To date i favor the Nightforce reticle but with your explanation of the Horus...I may rethink this a bit more. The intent is to not use a high tech chassis firearm but use my 2012 Model 70 Super-Grade chambered in .270...should be tons of fun but also a steep learning curve. Thanks again!
I think he confused himself when he used the 1 mil right as his reference to count the sub tensions out to 3 mils right (giving him 2 mils). That aside, he did a great job and would imagine it being a very informative and useful tutorial for shooters starting out with target style rets..
I would have you consider the Burris Fullfield 2 with the "Ballistic Plex" reticle. It's a simple duplex with a couple hold over hash marks on the bottom crosshair, super simple and easy to use. These are tough and inexpensive, I've seen them on 223's to 300 win mags and they hold up well. Best of luck setting up your Ruger!
ALWAYS put a zero in front of a decimal like .2 so we don't confuse it. 0.2 is clear. .2 is less clear especially when written. There's already dots all over those diagrams.
Great Video! Thanks Billy. We are reticle with crosshair provider in China. your sharing is excellent. If any clients need reticles, contact me please.
Looks like the tremor 3 is the best long range reticle
3 года назад
In Sweden we do a lot of range estimation on the clock and 0.1 mil lines are essential to do fast accurate range estimation. I use the MSR reticle in an s&b, it is very good for this.
@@wilfdarr it's easy to see through if it's etched properly on the glass. I've never shot with that exact reticle but I have looked and tested some off hand and the first thing I did was test holdover viability. It does get messy of the target is behind mixed brush it seems though depending on zoomed power vs distance.
Was wondering if you would give a review and thoughts on BDC reticles. Acss griffin and such. Didn't find a video on those. Ty. Great vid. I'm very picky on whom I subscribe to, this got my click.
the Griffin is amazing! I am running it on a short 6.5cm upper and with a 50 yard zero BDC using the first 4 mils is on with in .1-.2 mils the mil grid and tracking is right on the money
Doesnt mean shit if the gun can't pull decent groups lol Guns can only ever be "so" accurate Ive had 5 shot groups pulling into 0.18 moa at 100metres then at 300 that same loads spreading em out to 5 moa Then loads shoot rubbish at 100m then at longer ranges pull in better. At the end of the day theres a cone of accuracy and its never gonna be perfect. But it should get you there because we are shooting at minute of human lol
Great as far as you go but how could you possibly overlook the ACSS reticle, easily the budget friendly one on the market for years, outselling Vortex, I believe?
ACSS (Advanced Combined Sighting System) is a BDC not a Milling Reticle. I know a BDC is historically referred to as a reticle, but the terms have diverged over the past decade: a BDC is not a real reticle 😉. In all seriousness, unless you get a custom printed BDC for your rifle shooting your load they're not going to be accurate. And if you decide that you're bullet wasn't performing this year and want to change it, you have to send your scope back to the manufacturer to get a new BDC printed and installed. With an MRAD or MOA, if you change your ammo you go on an app and enter that round's data, calculate a new set of comeups or holdovers, and you're ready to rock 5 minutes later. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-w5nGfcW89YM.html
@@wilfdarr wtf are you talking about😂 BDC reticles have been sending people 6 feet under for almost a century now. You have no clue about what you’re talking about! I am hitting 10” plates out to 700 using an ACSS and 77gr MK262 The ACSS took this years Army Marksman ship Unit comp, you should slap your self!
Don’t listen to this guy he has no clue.. the reticles in this video are for precision fire, BDC is for AR15 type fighting rifles, if you are looking for ACSS mil type reticles look the ACSS Griffin Mil for SDM and the Athena BPR mil for precision fire.
@@gunblasterr I've had amazing success with the primary arms 1x-6 LPVO on my Ruger AR 556 16" 1:8 twist. It's so damn easy to transition from 50 to 500 and everything in between. I'm not getting MOA at 100 yards, "Best 5 group has been 1.25" with Blitzking 55g match rounds and Hornady Frontier 72g BTHP" but I'm also doing this from prone and not any kind of shooting rest led slead which is more than sufficient for my needs. It's funny how some people make such wild claims with so much confidence like it's almost they believe their own bias nonsense, "not you but dude that claimed it wasn't accurate". I'm sure if I used some REAL match grade ammunition and a proper shooting rest then I could get MOA but if I can reliably hit a 12"x12" steel square at 400 yards easily with cheap brass cased pmc bronze 55g or cheap pmc 62g m855 then I'd say the reticle system is more accurate than I'll ever be.
Dude, standard mildot explanation: first you tell me that the dots are 2 mils apart then you bracket 2 dots and tell me that is 1.2 mils??? Yeah, that's gonna take some more explanation
That's not what he said. The dot its self is .2 mil. Its like red dot scopes. Some are 2 mil some are 3. So what he said is measure from the middle of the dots so you're measuring correctly. Hope this helps. Take care :)
And with all of that great information what I took away was you need to be able to count to 5 or 10 in a dozen different ways and still no explanation on how to put any of this to everyday use . One dot ,two dot is my target 6 foot tall at 100 yards or 6 inches tall . You could do land survey with the detail in these scopes most of us just need to know where to hold on a target 100,200 or 300 yards and how to tell if we are aiming at 100,200 or 300 yards !
video is to explain the designs not teach you how to use it.. i doubt your hunting deer with a DMR at 1200+yards with 3 crosswinds while it runs at 20mph and your shooting from a +200ft elevation so you are watching the wrong video.
It's nice to have some minor additional data for traveling windage too, "hunting, self defense purposes". I like to have a 3mph and an 8mph lead picture with my scopes and it never gets in the way.
There's a lot going on there. I would like to learn more about range estimation, and subsequent adjustments to make, using either a mil or moa based scope.
Hi. I have 4×40 tasco scope with no dots. How will i know how to aim when its zero on 100m and you want to shoot at target on 200m. Its my first scope are used to open iron...?
I think I understand what you are talking about, bit have no clue what any of this means in the realm of actually shooting. I did a lot of shooting in the USCG from 1963 until I retired in 1989. I have never used a scope in the military and when hunting I always used open sights, and did well like that, Ron USCG MKC RET
@6:40 i think its 3 mil to the right not 2 mil or maybe im not understanding it correctly. From the red vertical line to the number 1 mark to the right should be 3 mil
With the modest amount of research I’ve done the mil system seems better than moa. Should I set my rangefinder for meters and think of targets and wind in metric units also?
Thank you, clear and useful info. I'm useing a vortex viper with the hold over hash marks, which gives me some crazy hold over distance like a fixed 374 yards at 300yds I have to gage just how much less then the hash that would be. Its like I have to use the the turret to dial up to get precission. Slow and have to count clicks and remember to reset to zero.... So my bad I bought it. Learning.
Dialing is how you get accurate shots on any scope. Especially at long range. That's the whole point of doping your rifle; knowing exactly what to expect at each range so you can dial to account for that. Keep practicing, you'll get there
@6:18 why would that be 2 full mils and not 3 full mils from vertical? 15 sub-tensions = 3 mils right? Also @8:40 those are distance refs not windage for movers ---as explained to me by another marksman (maybe wrong)...Dragonov style 5'9" human from horizontal line to numbered line is THAT distance so 5 = 500 meters 8 = 800 meters etc..Standard humans get fast mil by preset mils and number lines for quick shooting when needed. (no math) Also the massive amount of dots and mils below 10 on the scale are for Forward Observers to adjust fire for arty.
You screwed up the Nightforce Reticle and nobody noticed! How can the Main windage line be any different than the lower windage lines? If you go left/right 3 mils on the main line, then it also equals 3 mils on any lower line. You show 2 mils total width on first line under. Duh!
Hmm he just went through and showed us how to understand what a reticle is doing. Really all of this should be in the owners manual. But if you buy second hand odds are you won't have it if the manufacturer didn't put one out online. Alternatives titles- how to understand your reticle, or why MILS are better than MOA. Lol sorry my bias is showing. Great content though.
