Great idea with the leash. I just finished installing the new belt. This video was the first one I seen and made the job easy! I seen other videos with people forcing the belt over or getting a pry driver and muscling the spring loose. By far the best and easiest method! Great job, thank you!
Seems like the trickiest part. My drive belt decided to go right after I got 1/3 of yard done. Glad it happened as I went up a incline instead of on the edge of the road. My street is usually high traffic. People speed (60+)& change lane all the time right where I live.
The dog leash trick saved my right hand from being dismembered any further once I saw this video. Many thanks, as the owners manual doesn't have instuctions to replace the drive belt. Your video on replacing the input shaft was very helpful as well. Now my tractor handles like new again. Thank you, thank you!
+Mike Crigger glad it helped fix your problems. When I changed my belt and input shaft I couldn't find any videos on the procedure, so I figured why not make one and maybe help people save time and a few bucks.
Yes as an alternative to a dog leash. The John Deere service manual recommends putting a nylon cord loop on the end of the spring and wrapping the other end on a small piece of wood to fashion a handle. I let the cord go over the engine shaft and slide so I could pull it just like the video. I was able to pull the front end of spring off its mount and release it slowly in a controlled manner. ***Use safety glasses!***
Thanks! Before I changed the belt on mine I couldn't find a specific video for the 1642's so I thought it would be a good opportunity to finally get a vid out there to hopefully help out.
Wish I had a dog and a leash but worked up an alternative with 2 zip ties around the spring and a piece of rope with a knot in the end. Tighten the zip ties once the rope is threaded through and tug away. If you're doing this on your back and need more leverage, run the other end of the rope through the steering arm. Oh one other tip, keep an eye on the brake lever, it goes into the forward hole on the left side, doesn't quite work if you you use the rear hole. Thanks for the video though, big time saver!
Want to say thanks again for a well done vid. It all seemed foreign until I propped my mower up like you did. Then it all made sense. Spent $80 for both belts at John Deere. but hopefully those are the last belts I have to buy for it.That is one tough spring wow!!!
Hate to be the bearer of bad news but I changed out my drive belt (JD belt) 5 yrs ago using this video and it just broke on me the other day but I went back to this video and put on a new one today so hopefully I'm good for another 5 yrs.....
I just replaced the traction drive belt on my Scott's John Deere S1642 with ease thanks to your very helpful video. My tractor is running great. I would like to note that the John Deere parts catalog shows the belt number as GX10851. I noticed a different belt number used in other comments. Don't know if these belts are the same, or if a S1642 is the same as a 1642H. My tractor sure looks exactly like yours. Just a heads up for anyone wanting to order the belt. Thanks for posting this video!
just scored one for 40m bucks. real nice shape. they thought the motor was toast. bar around front pulley was rubbing. fired up great. needs mower belt
thank you such a big help I put a new motor in my Scotts and did not know why there was still tension on the Belt when I put in clutch so now I know how to get the belt back on!!!!!
Great video and nice idea with the dog leash. I am getting a relatively new Scotts 17-42 for $200-it needs a starter and drive belt. Very helpful and thanks again.
Great video. The best tip was seeing your tractor propped up on the back wheels. I had started to change my belt by going underneath. Didn't have a dog leash. Fashioned loops using the nylon twine you get from Home Depot. Worked well. Great idea on how to remove the spring. Thank you for posting.
Thank you for making this video it is an awesome job and very helpful. I have to replace my belt tomorrow when I get a replacement and this video makes it so much easier.
Well, the Scotts mower I inherited ( 50" Kohler 20Hp) runs like a champ but is now struggling up hill. I'm thinking the belt is stretched and I'm freaking out on how to change. This is a great video but no idea how to get the deck off and this all seems so overwhelming. I am pretty good at small engine repair but this is freaking me out. I hope to get this job started soon. I have the manual but nothing on how to service or replace this hydro drive belt. I cannot imagine the price I would pay to have a service place do this job.... Good Video in any case!
The deck removes with clips you pull out by hand. Put a couple of wood blocks on under deck and push down on deck height adjustment to take weight of deck off its hanging hardware. Note how the back wings fit into the slides at the back of machine so when you go back to put it on you know where it should go. There are 5 clips you need to pull off. One is on the lever that tensions the belt. As you pull all these clips off be sure to catch the washers so they can be reused. There are 4 pins that hold the deck remove those and the deck can be slide sideways under mower.🙂
Glad to be able to help out with your maintenance. The only thing that's in the service manual that I found was how to R&R the deck and belt, not the trans drive belt. I guess they want you to take it to a dealer for that. I prefer to use the shorter leash for easy storage in the toolbox, but a regular length leash would work well also, just depends which one works best for you. Thanks for looking.
I just replaced the traction drive belt on my Scott's John Deere S1642 with ease thanks to your tip about the dog leash awesome help. Great Video and a must for everyone who is going to tackle the project. Wildy2U
I just use a big screw driver and pry the belt off the tension pulley. To re install I run the belt up to the engine drive pulley and with a screw driver I get the belt back onto that pulley. I don't mess with that spring at all.
Great video! Thanks so much. Saved me so much time. Only issue I had was trying to change the cooling fan while I had it apart. I found it couldn’t be done, even after removing the plate under the rear battery compartment. Wasn’t enough room between the rear fan pulley and the body. I guess I have to completely remove the transaxle to get to the fan ? Kind of a bad design for such a wearable part. Thanks again for a great video !
Yes i had to remove the transaxle in order to have full access to replacing the fan. I guess they figured it would be a long time before that would need replacing.
Hi scatpack68, when you removed your transaxle to replace the input shaft, did you take off the wheels first before unbolting the transaxle from the mower, or did you leave the wheels on and remove them after getting it out from under the mower? I have to do this shaft replacement too I believe, having same symptoms as you describe in your shaft replacement video. Thanks for your reply.
Mine was just the opposite. It was slipping a lot due to a shiny, dry rotted belt. Worked like new after belt replacement. Did you use an OEM Kevlar type belt? Is it the correct length? Is the button in the back fully pushed in to engage the trans? Does the belt have no slack whatsoever? Was the brake lock lever reinstalled? Just a few thoughts...
Good video, My blade engagement lever won't stay engaged or it won't go all the way down in the nutral position, it stays in the middle and I have to put a bungie strap on it when I'm cutting the Grass ?? any suggestions, I took off the deck cleaned and lubed everything. Some thing must be missing ! Thanks for the Video !!
Check the lever adjustment just above the deck with the long spring. With the lever engaged there should be about 1" forward travel of the bracket. It may be way out of adjustment or parts missing.
Just a suggestion.....when replacing the belt, or for any reason you may have to remove the deck, check the 4 bolts that secure the engine to the underside of the body. I recently made an adjustment to the deck pulleys and noticed that one was missing and the other 3 were loose.
Your video helped soo much..I just installed the drive belt yesterday and that dog leash trick was perfect..Without that there is no doubt I would have gotten hurt (spring is under a lot of tension) . I also noticed that the Fan pulley was wobbling which may be why the belt got chewed up. How hard is it to remove the fan pulley? Thanks for the help
Question, I changed the belt this morning. Double checked everything and the transmission seems like it is slipping. It will not go more than 10 ft at normal speed at a time. It worked perfect before the belt change. I have the deck off again, trying to figure it out. NO leaks, did you have to break your belt in at all?
My belt broke on my Scotts mower,I wasted a couple hrs trying to figure out out to put on the new one,finally gave up and went to youtube and found your video.Many thanks for posting this,it really helped help point me in the right direction and get the new belt on.I lost a cotter key that held the steering rod on so I left it upright overnight till I got to the store,how long do you reckon it takes for all the oil to run back down in the motor & transmission?
There's no specific torque specs given in the service manual since it doesn't illustrate the replacement of the belt, but I would suggest approximately +/- 20 ft. lb. You may also use your best judgement when it comes to being "securely" tightened. Thanks.
Good Job on the Video, how do you like that John Deere, I just picked mine yesterday. My pulley and shaft splines were stripped, watch your Video. the bearing and seal was tight, so I put the pulley on my drill press and tapered the hole, I then took a wet rag and wrapped around the lower shaft and seal, and Tig welded the pulley in Place, working perfect !! Love your video's. Thanks, John
I have the 2048 versions, very similar. How do you get the belt around the fan pulley? Does the crank case drop away if you release the two springs on each side?
Hey a 4' small dog leash with your foot in the handle from the left side of the mower laying on your back and you can get it done. as the OP said does work.
I've noticed that the the mower is not staying in gear and having issues with going up hill now that I've replaced the belt and idler(the one just to the left of the spring). Can the idler be adjusted to tighten the belt?
No, the amount of spring tension is pre-determined and can't be adjusted. It automatically adjusts for belt wear/stretch. If it makes noise during forward engagement, it may need a new shaft/pulley assembly. I also have a video about replacing those parts.
@@scatpack68 Thats incorrect. The tension can be adjusted on page 6-22 of the technical manual it states the tension spring is to be removed and the idler pulley that is mounted on slots is moved. The manual states that tension is checked by measuring the tension spring (not including hooks)= 12.25in +-.25in
I've had a hard time finding the right belt. The manual says Ground drive belt GX10065. Google searched and couldn't find one. I found one that Says it will work. It is 1/2 inch by 96 inch long. Is this the right length?
does it make any noise when the trans is engaged? If so check my other video about changing the shaft/pulley assembly. Other than that, check the level of oil in the trans case.
+scatpack68 This is the second time this issue comes up -- instead of just saying "check my other video" why don't you actually give the RU-vid link dead or live so folks can get there without having to hunt for it forever.
the video can be found simply and quickly by clicking on my user name and finding that there is only one other video pertaining to a Scotts/Deere product. The transmission video. Keep in mind I'm not getting a dime for making the videos, just trying to help out.
Mine was connected to the steering rack with a cotter pin. A pair of needle nosed pliers should be all you need to remove it. After that it just turns in a keyway slot to remove it from the arm near the tension spring.
The black pulley closest to the fan will need to be removed in order for the belt to clear the frame rail. Once that's back in the belt can be routed around the pulley above the fan.
@@scatpack68 Thank you for the fast response. I tried lifting the mower up and boy is that thing heavy. I guess it's time to jack it up some to get under it.
To answer my own question, my tractor is actually a 2001 (date of manufacture anyway) Scotts by John Deere 1642h model. I found a Kevlar V-drive belt that was 96 inches long & 1/2 inch wide at a local tractor supply store. The original belt specs are 95.8 inches X 1/2 inch, so I used it. Worked perfect! The dog leash worked like a charm also. Thanks for posting this video like 9 years ago - it's STILL very helpful!
