This video was very helpful! I have a 1999 Scotts 25HP, 46IN deck tractor. The 2046 in the video is nearly identical to the 2546. Also, Ron1987's 2046 is far more cleaner than mine. My belt had severely deteriorated over time and needed to be replaced. The steps I used to REMOVE the belt are similar to the steps used in this video to put the belt on. I did remove the bracket & guide behind the PTO shaft, as in the video. The part mentioned at 3:25 was disconnected from the front axle connection and the thin flat bracket was pushed back at the other end to allow clearance to allow belt to fit around. I didn't have to completely remove it as Ron1987 did in the video. The only other part removed, and not mentioned, was the eyebolt that connects to the parking brake rod. The eyebolt has to be disconnected on the S2546. Before removing the belt, I highly recommend that you take a picture and/or draw an outline of how the belt is currently set in place. Fortunately, the belt sequence in the this video is the same as the S2546. However, it's handy to have as a quick reference if you have to take a break and/or forget how the belt was run. My other suggestion is that a second long & sturdy flat end screw driver might be useful to help remove the belt off of the PTO pulley. I didn't use one, but did consider it as I was trying to keep my fingers from getting smashed when the blade slipped. Thanks again Ron1987 for a clear and informative video!
This video just helped me immensely... I have a 1995 Sabre which is nearly identical to this mower in terms of the drive belt. To get the belt slipped over the PTO pulley I used a combination of a crowbar and a long screw driver. It takes a bit of effort but if you are patient it will go on.
Thanks for viewing.This mower is a family members I have literally redone everything but,the engine,and trans and even still has the original shafts on the deck. Its had a TON of work done by me to keep it going.Last year bought a new carb the original was just too far gone to rebuild in my opinion and cost to replace over the rebuild made more sense to replace.I could list every thing I have done but,lets just say its like a restored mower minus some stuff.
Chip F. I recommend removing the deck this alloys full on easier access.As for the plastic pulleys I suggest removing those that run the drive belt soley to clean out and reinstall.I soley used soap and water and blew out with air and then put wheel bearing grease around the bolts (not the actual sealed bearing) on the reinstall.This grease just keeps the plastic pulleys moving easier around the hardware and getting all the debris out extends the life of the actual bearing.Yes the jd scotts are kind of a pain to remove the deck,however it alloys more room,and to really clean the deck both sides at this time of work.Any further questions just ask and I will do my best to assist you.
If the belt is old it could be stretched out due use.I would check your 3 plastic pulleys that the drive belt routes thru to ensure if they are seizing up(bearings).Also check the tension spring that connects to the bracket for plastic pulleys that engages the pto.Just do a good check of the belt on the mower and have the parking brake set.If the belt has any stress marks or mild tears on the sides I would replace the drive belt.Make sure the plastic pulleys turn freely (again have the parking brake set) this takes the tension off the belt.
Frank K. On this tractor the drive belt had broken and on my reinstall (being this is not my tractor) I soley did installed a new drive belt.It has been a while since I did the said work.If your belt is stretched just cut it off.Set the parking brake as this allows more slack when replacing the new drive belt.Long day and tired if I think of any other tips I surely will suggest some.
After 22 years I finally replaced the belt. What wasn’t mentioned was that you must loosen up the transaxle in order to get the belt over top the rear pulley! I removed the two front bolts from the C brackets, then loosened the bolts by each wheel but did not take them out. Using a screwdriver by one of the front C bracket I could pry down enough room to get the belt out. Also the little metal brake lock that goes through the deck must be removed. Sense this belt is such a pain in the butt do, do yourself a favor and ONLY use a John Deere belt!
I realize the area to get the drive belt on the fan on top of the trans is tight.However I have never on any mower had to drop down the trans or rear end to install a drive belt.But if it made it easier for you thats fine too.Thx
I did leave off 1 step in the drive belt install.You do have to remove the 10mm nut and plate for the parking brake!!!.Just remove the park brake ten mm nut and slide the drive belt thru the open area.Getting the the flat plate straight is not difficult but does take some Finess but a flat head pry bar will push it back up straight to install the nut on the bottom of the park brake nut install area.Yes kind of annoying but before you remove any thing look and verify the original setting and take pictures if needed!!!!!!I will say I did fight with the the parking brake handle a touch but,in ten minutes figured out MY goof.Fixing lawn tractors drive belts and the install are not as simple as a cake walk especially on OLD models.I do my best to share simple steps and make this is as painless as possible.I do make mistakes too but I am trying to make things easier.
The flat pulley is your tensioner pulley use a breaker bar with the appropriate socket to release pressure on the belt to get it over the v pulley. Keep the hammer and pry bars away!😂
I have the same exact riding lawn mower that Scotts lawn mower that you are showing, and I don't know why it won't move so would that be the drive belt.the reason why it won't move?
Great video! Helped me replace mine. One question I have. Haven't got to use it yet as this mower was free and given to me and been in the process of some minor over hauling it but it looks like it was reconditioned from a shop (even changed the serial number for it). It was a S2046 but now it has a 16hp B&S Twin II and not the Intek 20hp. Will this be a problem with having enough horsepower to run normally like it had the 20hp originally?
I really do not think it should be a issue.In comparison to my Mtd 18.5hp twin 2 with a 46 deck .That's not really too much of a big difference. Makes me wonder what blew out on the original.In short a ok from my perspective
Paul E. Look on the mower for your Identification tag of manufacture.It should be under the seat itself or on the metal frame under the seating area. I need to know the year specific as (I know) you guessed it.Second is the product ID information with the serial number and it should also have a area indicating the model number.I have never heard of a cruise control if that is a brand.If it is a scotts it is made by john deere.Let me know what you find.Also what engine brand not that it is relevant to the deck parts.
Troy the oem part from jd is JDGX10644 price is anywhere from $45.00-$50.00 from the dealer.However just go to ebay and type this in(john deere GX10644) this is a Kevlar oem direct replacement for about $20.00 as of 5/13/18 (I had to order 1). The measurement of the belt is 1/2" X 143.5".Hope this helps and most aftermarket belts just use the GX10644 instead of the JD as I assume a copy right thing.
Fje912 For some reason the link want show the diagram.How ever just go to the top in the search button and type in S2046 and go to the 3rd choice showing john deere S2046 lawn tractor pc2740.Go to the bottom of the schematics page it will show the steering and linkage etc. Ok
Dang link did not work. But go to the site listed and just select S2046 in the model number block.Choose the 1999 year as this should apply and really do not think the decks were changed from 98-00 however this is what your looking for.Scroll down to one of the two diagrams for the deck components and or deck illustrated. This should help you spend plenty.Being a JD part I have not researched to see if anyone offers a aftermarket version cheaper.I am curious though.
Do you still have this mower? Friend took my shifter apart as a joke and idk how to put it back together. I could use a photo of it with the right rear tire removed
www.green-parts-direct.com/john-deere-parts-diagrams/john-deere-s2046-lawn-tractor-pc2740-steering-wheel-gears-linkage-front-axle-steering-and-brakes/AD-4275-171370-69322 This should help you.I would check for slop in the steering knuckles with the tire raised up off the ground.And checking the overall components for premature wear.I would have to go check the unit I keep maintained for my friend to see a more specific item to consider replacing.I will check his unit later and maybe point out what I would consider after that.
I have a 46” 18hp cruise control I believe it’s a 96 model I Can’t find parts for the middle blade it wore out the piece that secures the blade to deck it wobbles so I had to take off Any help appreciate d
I semi restored this mower for a friend.I did primer most of it and used rust-oleum 214084 orange .Rustoleum has two diff versions of orange.I felt this best matched the original color which was very faded due to the owner(a idiot) never took care of the mower.
This is slightly off topic - I have searched for a while and this is about the only video that is about the 2046, most are the 1742 or other and the 2046 is clearly different setup. I have a 2046 and the steering has got a lot of play. Do you have any info, parts diagram or video of replacing the steering components? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Question how old is your drive belt.IF it got some age it is Highly likely the drive belt is stretched. I know your unit has 1 fixed small pulley and the other 2 work to do a S type maneuver.I on Recall do believe 1 of those (2) small pulleys does have a small tension spring.Being this is Not my mower but have done a ton of work to it,I can research it and tell you exactly what the part number is for the spring.I'd say bc the reverse is Slower bc of gearing and forward is a higher speed it Very well be your drive belt is stretched which in turn can cause this to occur.Let me research I WILL post the part and or any relevant info for your benefit!!R
@@Ron1987 thanks. It just started acting up and is worse today. Barely moves in either direction. I ordered a new drive belt. Gonna take the mower deck off tomorrow. Replace drive belt Saturday.
@@Billster1955 The Tension spring that goes to the L type bracket that holds 1 of the pullies Part # is GX10715 this is a john deere part.You can google it and it varies in price 20-25 bux.I would clean your 3 small pullies and put some wheel bearing grease (lightly) around the bolts makes them run quiet and less drag.If you need any further help just ask.R
@@Billster1955 ok I'm betting $$$ that your 2 pulleys that put tension on the drive the bearings are starting to seize! Part #s are AM121968(small) AM121970(BIG one) these are the 2 that generally fail.The other stand alone pulley (small) AM 121967.These are John deere #s look on ebay 4 the best cost!My friends drive broke after these failed which is the unit in my video.Always will help if u need any further stuff
Glad you found this helpful for future repair work.Belts tend to fail due to a variety of reasons.On the unit I fixed it had two pulleys Lock up bearing seized and fried the belt and both pulleys.Good fun
If you do a Simple search and use this (scotts S2046 drive belt diagram) or similar this will show multiple results.If you want you can go to the site www.greenfarmparts.com/ and type in S2046 they have a true technical book for $126.00(ouch) .Hope this assist you in your question.
I would remove all 3 of the small pulleys and clean them and make sure the bearing in each of them roll freely.If you feel Any resistance I would replace them.Since they are a Sealed bearing no grease or lubricant will really fix them if worn out.I also recommend making sure the pulley with fan on it(transmission) end moves with ease to ensure it is not locking up as well.I will list the part numbers for All 3 of the stand alone pulleys.GY00254 Idler (this is on the LHS) ,AM121970(this may come up as JDAM121970 Flat style pulley(only 1) Other V style pulley close to the flat pulley JDAM121970 (may be AM121970) the slight variation is depends on the seller bc JD uses the AM or GX etc and other parties may add the JD or just use the numbers.I would not rule out the pulley at the pto up front.IF you want go to this site www.green-parts-direct.com and yse S2046 PC-2740 if you want to verify anything.I would check around on ebay as they should be there fairly cheap.the site above has decent pricing as I have used them multiple times.Hope my book has given you so ideas and feel free to ask again after your checking the above.Ron
I know you meant S2046??? Ok go to www.green-parts-direct.com/john-deere-parts-diagrams/john-deere-s2046-lawn-tractor-pc2740-mower-deck-46-1-17m-mower-deck-lift-linkage/AD-4275-171370-69332 .Kind of $$$ but,if the mower is in good shape it might be a ok idea. The part is #35 on the diagram and cost is $680.37.
Some simple issues.The mower is slow to get moving in forward or reverse then moves as normal.Jerky starts from a stop or lurching while moving (kind of like hitting a speed bump).Also just check visually to see if the belt seems to have A lot of slack around the pulleys.If you do replace the drive belt I strongly suggest removing ALL the pulleys that the belt runs thru and wash and dry out the pulleys.These usually catch a lot of dirt and debris and I normally run a light coating of grease around the bolts when I go to reinstall them to help with a resistance free movement.Hope this helps if you need any further suggestions I will try to assist you.Thanks for viewing the page.R
Thank you Ron...I checked the belt. There is a lot of slack and the belt looks flat on both sides. While sitting with the mower in neutral the belt begins smoking on the PTO pulley...due to looseness?
Bill the belt should be flat on the outside and V on the inside as it runs with the V thru most of the pulleys except 1.With the belt getting hot may be due to its worn out as you stated its flat on both sides of the belt.I would check those stand alone pulleys for Any wear like melted plastic and that they turn easily by hand.I doubt the pto might be the issue but,if the belt is running thru any of the system and a pulley is sticking or froze due to bearing failure(common issue) it will drag the drive belt until is breaks the belt or the pulley comes apart.Recheck those pulleys and well go from there.R Sorry for the delay as I have been pretty busy and yard work today of all things.
No problem. I would remove those individual pulleys and wash and dry and or blow out with air.I usually apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease on the bolts the pulleys attach to to ensure smooth operation on any drive belt replacement.Ok
Honestly I have no idea.I will say I think since the early 2000's mowing tractor manuf, have clearly simplified this on alot of brands.I will say on my 12 husqvarna the manual was poor in explaining it.Key reason I made a far easier simple video for just that with a clear belt diagram for the drive.It on my page as well.Thanks And hope my video made this well easier.
