Scratch Building Your Own RC Planes - Episode #10.5 Making Servo Lead Extensions 

Thanks Brad!!! I am filming another episode this weekend showing how to replace a broken fuse. Lol. It should be out next week. Im glad you're enjoying the series.

Thanks Mike. It's a shame we don't have more guys building their own leads; it's so easy. Maybe this will inspire some to try it.

Thanks. That means a lot. Don't forget to subscribe. It helps in the rankings more than you think.

Good point. A lot safer too.

Glad you liked it!

Yeah, I do that pretty regularly with 2 wire twist. It won't braid 3 wire though.

I appreciate that! I should have the wing filming finished up tomorrow and then, we will start on the tail feathers.

Nice pick-up :)

Lol. I'll check that. Thanks.

Sure enough! Very impressive attention to detail. That would have smoked a $100 MSK777A+ in a millisecond. You get extra credit!!!

@@mikencrcf6018 It's always nice to have several hundred people checking your work. Positive feedback. Thank you for your videos.

I agree with everything you add here and you're right, a correctly soldered connection will not fail. However, there is a reason I (we) crimp rather than solder in this application. I do solder all of my larger battery leads and I solder my switches and lights. However, I have to support all of those wires to avoid failure with shrink tube or epoxy. All of my switches get epoxy that is made just for that purpose. Larger battery leads are supported by heat shrink to help prevent vibration at the solder joint. In addition, the larger wire is less susceptible to vibration failure although it does ocurr. I don't worry about the solder failing but I do not want the wire failing just off of the joint. As you know, that is highest risk area on CORRECTLY done soldering connections. Since the molecular structure of the heated wire has changed and is weakened, soldered joints need support a few millimeters from the heated region to be safe. That's not practical in my opinion in this application. If a crimped connection is done correctly, it will outlive several airframes. I've never seen one suffer corrosive damage in a plane that was stored properly but your statement is absolutely correct. Thanks for the input and the valid points. It's nice to see guys who know a thing or two about the topics involved.

Lol. Take your time. I'd do it over a few nights. No beer until after your done. Good luck!!!!

I think the doubled up ply sheeting would be stonger if not a litter liter. Any help would be appreciated Mike Seitz. You probably already know that all the great planes are all discontinued now. What same great product gone.

That's a lot to answer here. I will paste this question to the Facebook group RC Foam Core Wings and answer there where discussion is much easier.. see you there. In addition, I'll put links on the "Resources" page on the website rcfoamcorewings.com. that will take a few days as I am out of town. And remember, if you haven't subscribed to the you tube channel yet, please do that. It really helps.

@@mikencrcf6018hello Mike. No hurry on any of these questions. I kinda got carried away. I supscribed quite awow ago I'm sure i did. But I'll check a d see. Thanks for all your videos and infoe. Mike Seitz.

for those mini connectors ALWAYS tin your wire ... to keep the strands in and ensure a good contact at all times ... NEVER do them without tinning ... thats how highschool students start until they learn the proper way to wire connectors ... ALWAYS tin stripped wire ends ... NO EXCEPTIONS EVER.

@@0623kaboom the purpose of these connector types is not to tin. Tinning creates an annealed portion of wire at the tinned area that is susceptible to vibration fatigue. Due to the constant vibration, failure is reduced to acceptable levels by this connection type.