I bought a cellphone tool kit from Aldi a few years ago for about 15 Euros and that thing has been a life saver a lot of times now. It includes allen screwdrivers from .75mm to 2mm. And all the hair-like Torx thingies. Also a lot of ultra-tiny Philips bits. Can't wait to see that little motor run! Go for it!
This pretty little thing looks to me like an "odds and ends engine" or a clone of such. The man to ask for info on this might be Philip duclos (see u-tube vids) I'm not sure who may have designed it originally. Still looks like a fine example of a buildable bit of kit. Good work. Thanks for sharing with us.
Have you actually checked to see if the con-rod is square to the crankshaft. The few glimpses that i saw in your first video gave the impression that it wasn't which will give you all sorts of tightness problems. 18:49 just seen how far out it is.
Sorry Brian just seen this comment after sending a similar one, yes alignment ones seem out. Also crank is not 100% true across full length. I somehow feel it was never really meant to run but was a very good model of the full thing. Brian2(1941).
The frame sides are out of kilter! They should line up forward/aft on the base plate and you can see they don't. By about 2mm at least as far as I can see. That might be the cause of your problems, depending on how it was built. If each side (frame, main bearings) was built according the plan then your crank would not be at right angles to the cylinder, which would definitely be "off kilter"! The builder might have compensated for it when he cut the slots in the sides for the main bearing blocks, or the crank holes in the blocks themselves. I guess some careful measuring might tell you, the mismatch is probably big enough to be easily measurable with some steel rules and a vernier. That would be a bit of a pain to fix, you'd have to drill and tap new holes to get them to line up (or, cough, weld it!). If you check the comments on the last video then someone tells you what it is, and there's a full build series of the engine on youtube by the guy he mentions - that should tell you pretty everything you need to know - I watched a few and learned a lot about it.
Actually, maybe you could just enlarge/slot the existing holes in the base enough to bring one side forward/back. That should work, and easy enough to do. A bit of epoxy would stop it ever shifting ;)
i got fed up loosing nuts down the side of the hornplates on the model traction engines I work on, I found a bit of brown paper jammed in with the nut worked well. My mate thought he was being clever with a magnetic socket he had made or acquired, until he came across some stainless nuts haha.
If the big end on the conrod is binding on the crank journal shimming it will increase the clearance and may allow it to spin freely but not fix the root cause of the binding. It will probably result in too large of a bearing clearance and accelerate wear and maybe even knock. The correct way to do it is to bore the conrod and end cap as an assembly about .002", no more, bigger the crank journal dia. Of course if you don't have the machinery to do it, then it might not be an option. If you just want to get it running then shimming might be your only option as a stop gap measure. This all points to a misalignment of the conrod/piston/crankshaft as you have already surmised. Good luck.
Adam is the bore parallel with the middle of the crank all so make sure your journal caps are the right way around and yeah they are drift pins in the two crank webs way to know you have ruined every thing in is when the oil goes clear leave on a motor for good few hours low rpm good luck mate
What a lovely if a little crude thing looks solid tho I would love this to tinker with be ideal no idea where I would find soemthing like this tho I’ve seen the fancy expensive ones but nowt like this one nice find buddy it’s binding on the gears going tight due to the bend as u rotate it u can see the end drop a bit so be tight on the gears
Its akward to tell from a picture or video but I think you have at least one alignment problem. In that view you gave us showing the con rod, I think you are right. It does look like it's on an angle but to me it also looks like the right side of the crank is higher than the left. Also looking down it appears the crank axis isn't 90 deg to the con rod. Like I said, it is difficult to tell on camera. I'm sure you'll sort it, looking foward to seeing it run. Good luck.
the problem with the con rod is simple, It's not central to the centre line of the crank, as you look down the bed you can see even with your eye its offset to the left, it will constantly bind up as it is also tightening the bolts on the big end shows its not correctly mated to the crank.
When you spin the bearing blocks on the crankshaft they should not be doing that "cam action" Mount the bearing blocks minus the crank shaft and see that the holes line up perfectly. To test this, when you loosen the 4 bolts holding the crankshaft blocks it spins easy. It also looks to me that the crank shaft is not very true.
The crank balance webs seem to be offset to the left almost as if the left crank pin you filed should have been pressed back to allow the webs to move over to the right and help with the con rod offset. ( This is viewed from the rear )
49:00 The big end isn't even tightened up yet, is it on the wrong way around. Stand back, slow dow and look along a tee square at the crankshaft / conrod angles.
Hi Adam, It’s strange that when you made a start it was ok but when you put it back together it doesn’t work I have had the same problem but knowing you you will get it right ✅, well Adam you take care of yourself and stay safe and well regards to mrs man cave.🛠️🛠️⭐️⭐️👍👍
Have you tried fitting the piston rod assembly 180 degrees the other way. Cylinder may not be 100 % in line with crank assembly?. My have been assembled originally to counteract any difference in alignment, all parts made to fit just one way round.
A compression ignition engine (often referred to as diesel but I think that's technically incorrect) doesn't have an injection pump, it has some sort of carb and ignites the mixture purely by compression heating it up - used to be very common in RC model aircraft engines from the 40's onwards (maybe before). Bit different from a diesel, which I think is defined by injecting fuel into already compressed air. I've only seen 2 stroke ones, not sure if any are/were 4 stroke. I have quite a few model ones - they use 30/30/30 Ether/paraffin/castor oil as fuel. The ether is the trick for starting, it works like easy start to ignite at lower compression values. I gather they can run without ether after starting, but I've never tried it. I have had them fire with just wd40 mind you! Usually you can alter the compression to adjust timing/running speed. Here's one of mine. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NVYdkCWQvvU.html
diesel engines are classes as compression ignition. Interestingly, Von Diesels first ignition compression engine was designed to run on gunpowder, but because of his gritty nature, he encountered to much wear, so started using fuel oil. Quite a few model aircraft and RC car engines use a glow plug to aid with their combustion cycles.
@@James_Rivett I'm familiar with the RC glow plug, a really simple neat solution, it reacts with methanol to keep hot. I did wonder if this hit and miss would run on one, but I think without fuel (would have to be methanol) and combustion heat it would probably "go out" on the miss cycles.
HI Adam, What you have is a Philip Duclos Odds' n Ends Hit ' n Miss Engine I have not built this one but I have built his Odd Ball 6 cycle hit and miss.
the exhaust valve works by that rocking beam which in controlled by a cam on the crank. The governour works by holding it open when the engine runs too fast and when it slows down, allows it to close and fire again. inlet valve is simply opened by the vacuum created by the piston on the induction cycle. Its how most simple engines were before 1920.
You tube removed my comment 😪 seams they object to the slang term for a mosquito's penis. What I said was I believe its a combination of the crank being slightly out of true and the big end and cylinder being slightly out of alinement. Model engines have very tiny tolerances. I believe the the con rod catching in the crank webs, I would leave the big end bearing full width of the journal, but file the con rod down so you get about 1mm (40 thou) clearance. also are you 100% sure you have fitted the big end cap on the right way round to the con rod? If you intend to use one of those microcosm spark plugs you will need either a 3/16" x 40 tpi or 1/4" x 32 TPI model engineering thread tap (depending on what size you wish to use). I get mine from tracy tools, but there plenty of ebay also. Make sure you get a HSS one, as the alloy/carbon steel taps won't last long being used in steel. If you need any advice or help with machining, don't hesitate to email me adam. I had to get some micro allen keys to work on some of the model steam mill engines I have. I also remember overhauling a 1.5" scale Davey Paxman traction engine for its owner in Oxford. I had to go out and buy some special BA spanners as I had nothing small enough for it.
I think it's a very simple carb - just a needle valve in a tube - common in simple RC model aircraft engines. The tube might run though through the air inlet and have one or more holes in it to serve as jets, or possibly just 1/2 way up and use the clearance between needle and inside of tube to suck the fuel. Not watched that far yet! There's a youtube series on building this engine if you look - answers there!
