Rigid arm saws are another type that I have encountered recently. People may see these in small hobby or vintage saws. The blade is driven from beneath the table and tensioned from above by a spring.
Great idea for a future video! Top feeder saws the blade gets released from the bottom, top arm lifts up and you can feed the blade through a whole in the top of the work piece. Bottom feeder saws release the blade from the bottom and you guide the blade through a whole in the bottom of your workpiece. Some saws are top or bottom feeders and some saws do both.
Always well done! Thanks for all your time and work you put into this very well done video. Which type of scroll saw is best to train someone new in my shop?
I would say the standard parallel arm design would be best for training. They are the safest machines especially considering new scrollers may be prone to breaking blades. Thanks for watching!
Simple, cheap scroll saws are fine for simple, external cuts using pinned blades. However, when it comes to using pinless blades, and/or conducting internal cuts then it can be challenging- to say the least - when using a DIY-store scroll saw. The problem however is the price difference : about $100 for a DIY-store saw, and about $1000 for a Hegner / Pegas / Excalibur saw..😳 The main issue is the blade-locking mechanism which is crap on DIY-store saws..🤷🏼♂️
Great video I started scrolling in the late 70’s on a parallel arm scroll saw it very old but very good HarborFreight came into my area in the early 80’s I purchased a Hegner Clone 15” done just a little tuning of it an it was amazing used it so much then a 1986 Hegner PolyMax 3 an amazing scroll saw when the Dewalt 788 came there was all kinds of hype about so I got one to that is the worst scroll saw I ever had the maintenance was terrible but $100 Hegner Clone an the Hegner PolyMax 3 are both still goin strong on both saw I have spent less than a hundred dollars on maintenance Great video thanks for sharing
Hey David thanks for watching! I really wanted to focus on the different types of blade movement rather than the features of the different brands. In the future I plan to do a comparison of features on the high end machines :)
which saw do you think would be the best,,,especially for quick blade changes,,,i was looking at the excaliber but i cant seem to find a new one,,mostly are refurbished,,
Hey Jeff! Right now I’d look at the Rikon Scroll saw. It’s a great machine for a decent price! rikontools.com/product/model-10-622vs-22-variable-speed-scroll-saw/
I have a large C-Arm craftsman on its own stand and a bench top style parallel arm craftsman . I've honestly considered selling the C-Arm one simply because it takes up so much space in my garage with the stand and everything. The parallel arm one pretty much does what I need. You're correct about the aggressive cutting though. The big C-Arm saw cuts incredibly well. It also takes has the clamp style blade holder rather than the pin style, which is nice. Now that I'm writing this, I'm rather torn... LOL
The one thing to consider is you will likely never find another C-arm saw like you have now! Though if you got rid of both and upgraded to a newer parallel arm machine that takes plain end blades I’m sure you would be happy. Thanks for watching!
@@StockroomSupply I agree. I love that it's older and heavier. It's build really heavy duty. Lots of cast iron and yet it's very well balanced. I probably won't get rid of it, as much as I'd like the extra room. It's just too cool.
Greetings, Can you please help me with the power issue... I am from Pakistan where we have 220 Volts power with 50 Hertz Frequency. Most scroll saws I have seen on Amazon or other online sellers are 120 Volts 60 Hz. Perhaps because their main market was North America I don't know... Are there variants available with other power options in the same brands u discussed in this video?
i was told that the dewalt had a very aggressive cut and wasnt good for fret work and there was no adjustment to it to give you just the up and down motion for doing fretwork,,,,i was looking at the delta and jet ,,but the jet is really expensive,,,,how is the rikon for this,,,and do you reccemend another saw for doing this
Good video! I do wish you had used an up to date Excalibur, or Seyco, or Excelsior, or Pegas, or any of the other clones. They offer advantages, such as an arm that stays up on its own, tilting head instead of tilting table, and even less vibration. Tensioning the blades on these is also radically different, since the knob at the back of the upper arm is to set the arm parallel to the table, NOT to tension the blade. Blade tension is handled by the springs attached to the chuck arms.
Hey Robert that is an excellent point! The new Excalibur clones do have a bunch of really neat features. If I had one here I definitely would have shown them off but I should have at least gotten into a touch more detail about them. Thanks so much for watching!
@@StockroomSupply Ethan - the Excalibur I have is well over 10 years old, purchased used, and it has all the features mentioned. The one you have must be an original from when the Excalibur line was made in Canada. Everything, including the motor mount, seems very different from any I have seen. Maybe it is worth more as an antique than as a scroll saw? :)
Thats exactly why I own it! Just for the cool old factor. Its nearly 40 years old now! But it does have the exact same design regarding the double parallel arms compared to the newer versions.
Hi, thank you! Great comparison! I have been looking for this scroll saw mechanism overview for a long time. The deviation from "verticality" on the most upstroke is a key parameter of the saw which is never mentioned. I am using Hegner which is great cast iron quality. However, when I cut 2 or 3 layers of wood I have to feed wood very slowly because otherwise the pieces won't fit interchangeably across different layers of cut. Is there mechanism which guarantees absolute vertical stroke?
