Timestamps Into: my son the theif: 00:58 Why I love the JLU: 1:46 Exterior: 2:31 Chassis/suspension 6:51 Drivetrain: 10:21 Final thoughts: 12:52 Jeep wave: 14:19
He literally is my go-to for everything. Great descriptions, great diversity, good camera fidelity and lighting, very succinct/to the point. Thanks man! I'm only 2 months into my Deadbolt SCX24 and man, I got a high clearance chassis, injora beadlocks (with the super swampers) an Emax, and 43 mm springless HotSport suspension. HOLY CRAP! Can't believe the difference, and I had SO MUCH FUN with the stock Deadbolt out the box!
Enjoy and appreciate your son! They grow up faster than you can believe. In a couple of days he'll be all grown up and gone. Yep, life happens fast! Great to see y'all enjoying the same interests and spending time together. Cute little man. Back to the build... Nice setup. Been spending a small fortune tonight ordering parts for my next build, and will admit that parts of your build were an inspiration. Pulling out all the stops on this one pretty much, and going for a high flex all out performance rig this time, based on a Deadbolt, but with not much left, and even a new Deadbolt body with custom paint. Guess I shoulda just ordered a set of axles and built from scratch. But, damn Amazon! They had the Deadbolt for $99 shipped, and that started the ball rolling.... Guess I'll have almost enough left over to build a stock Deadbolt when done. Haha
This is basically exactly what I want to build. Maybe a different wheel setup but. Bet totally a setup I am going to work on. Thanks for the content and info. Was debating on what my first RC crawler should be.
Your crawlers are awesome, some massive flex. Your videos are helping me figure out some problems I'm having with my JLU build, thanks for the content.
That is sweet and I love the fact that you have so much articulation I have been trying to get that same articulation with my deadbolt iwill have to try the way you did to see if mine can go that far but anyway that is pretty sweet, the trailing video was sweet as well
Thanks! The JLU has crazy flex. It still surprises me how well this thing responded to the mods I put on. It’s a beast. Let me know how the deadbolt works with this setup!
i am very interested to hear how that goes and if you find a setup thats anything like this. i also have the deadbolt and my current setup is for shocks is in the back i have the hot racing double barrel shocks mounted to the battery tray location, in the front i have the stock shocks mounted to the rear/lower esc mount. i did this so i have equal droop in front and rear and also if i put in the HR double barrels in front they either would droop so low the driveshaft kept popping out (in the mentioned location) or there was significantly less flex and the front would ride to high or if i took the springs out there would still be too much droop. i have the +5 hub extenders that can be found all over amazon by various different companies. i also have the treal high clearance links with 1 oring on each end of the the 2 front lower (outside) links. i found if i use any less orings on the links up front i get side to side movement and the driveshaft hits the link and binds up the flex severely. i kept all the orings in the back links since the thing limiting the flex in the back seems to be the upper and lower links making contact. i can get 3 (stock) tires high of flex in the rear and about 2 and half tires high in the front. i dont really see how i could get to much more flex out of it so i would love to hear how you do and your setup regarding flex. this JL seems like it has more potential because the trans/motor and therfore center links mount are more centered in the car where the deadbolts has the trans/motor set towards the front more. also the exc and battery tray mount in the JL seems like it might be in better spot for mounting shocks to allow for more droop. i wonder if its possible to get this much flex without going with a different chassis.
You can likely improve your climb with limiting straps on the front. With the double barrels up front, you'll have an issue with the front shocks unloading which allows the "unsprung" weight to pull the vehicle over backwards. It's one of the persistent issues of "full droop vs. high flex". Limiting vertical travel in the front will combat this. I'm currently running a forced droop setup on my C10 for this very reason. Another way of doing this, while still allowing for full flex, is to use a short length of fishing line between the front upper link connection point at the rear of the servo mount, and a point directly above it on the ESC tray. This, when properly adjusted for length, will keep the front planted on steep inclines, but still allow each side of the axle to have full movement for full articulation. Takes a little setup to get dialed in, but may be worthwhile on your double barrel, front and rear, setup.
Great advice! I am currently experimenting with rubber bands but I think the axles are too heavy and overwhelm the bands. I’ll have to try the fishing line 👍🏻
@@CapeCrawlers Yep. I still have much to learn on the suspension setup front. Not sure there is any one "best" solution... just compromises... And we just have to find the best one for our particular likes and needs. Bcochener has a pretty nice setup on his recent Deadbolt build that I'm considering giving a try. The fishing line has the limitation of preventing down travel when breaking over a crest. But it does limit suspension unloading on steep climbs, while still allowing full articulation when setup properly. The rubber bands will still allow full drop on breakover, as long as you have sufficient weight on the axles to overcome them. They're main advantage is allowing decent breakover drop, while preventing body/chassis lift on climbs. Just a balancing act and have to get the tension dialed in to suit your setup and needs. But, I guess the experimenting is half the fun, right?
@@CapeCrawlers Ya got the jeep when it came but never got around to doing upgrades. Always was using my 1/10 scale crawlers. But watching u do nice big improvements is a big inspiration. Not to mention getting your son involved.😉. O ya are u using the stock esc?
@@CapeCrawlers Have not bough all my upgrades yet but had a question on Rc4wd wheels do these come with wheel hubs already or do I need those as well and do I needed a conversion size. Going to be getting the extension like yours as well. Thanks
Hey CAPE, I have a Jlu as well. But it does like to flip backwards. I have injora 45mm shocks no springs. I do have a limiting strap but when the rig is under high torque it wants to lay back. Any help would and will do. Keep up as always with the great content.
I have the c10 and I don’t have more than a tire of flex and I’ve already upgraded everything besides control arms, I got treal shocks but they’re pretty stiff, should I remove the springs or just get the shocks your running for more flex?
@@CapeCrawlers Made me pull mine out again, i have a very similar setup on a deadbolt. 43mm rclions double barrels mounted to the frame, lightest springs. extended/4linked. Idk if i just dont have as much weight on mine or what but it does not articulate like your jeep, the flex on yours is soo smooth, i can get 90 degrees of flex, 6 tires or whatever but it just doesnt flow as smooth as yours does in the video.
Thank you! I run the Grizzly Works LCG kit on this one. Here's the link: www.etsy.com/listing/1427299299/scx24-chassis?ref=hp-4&plkey=c5d4d4a487b06b13604214ae55bedbff6cbf63f6%3A1427299299
Have you had trouble getting your tool for the wheel nutson the actual nut? I'm running injora stamped steel wheels, and I flipped the hubs like you have done. I'm sure it's not because of that, but it seems like the screws that hold the wheel together won't let my tool by to tighten the wheel nuts
Yes, you're exactly right. The screws of the wheel block the nut driver. I often have to use a t-handle wrench, one of the freebies that usually come with the trucks, to get them started and then use my typical nut driver.
@Cape Crawlers ok thanks I was going to try and grind down my nut driver. Mine didn't come with a t-handle tool. I'm new to this RC stuff. I bought the scx24 white JLU. I like your yellow one and kinda building mine some what like yours. Another issue I'm having is the front drive shaft coming apart in full droop. I installed Injora high clearance links.Any help or information on RC stuff will be greatly appreciated. And awesome videos, by the way
Probably the scramblers in all honesty. I love the LGRP trail kings but they’re so huge I can only run them on certain rigs. The scramblers are a great performing tire that’s big but not too big, plus they hook up amazing in a variety of terrains
I realized after I published the video that I completely forgot this! I use a rubber band looped under the front linkage behind the servo mount up over the body mounts. You can see it in some of the photos within the video
Or what would be an alternative that would do the same job as the wheels and tires your recommended I order my first rc crawlers and ordered this same model because I loved your build
A little late but great build! Are your stock driveshafts at least in the front not popping out from all the extra flex?? My front has and you got even more flex! Thanks!
so with the extended track (width) setup you have, you use the beadlocks with them reversed and the hub extenders and that all you did to get it that wide? speaking of the hub extenders i dont understand why they come with longer axles. those brass hubs dont go over the stock axle pin?
Yes, that’s all I did to widen it out. The brass hexes I have on here have different pin positions because the hexes are so big. The hole is drilled further back to accommodate the bigger hex. A lot of other brands you can get away with just adding the hexes but these ones don’t mount up correctly without the matching axles.
Is this the new v2 model? Not really a fan of them as to replace an esc, you basically have to buy a new motor and transmitter with it for them to cooperate with each other. I have two coming but I want to get your intel. on which one I should get. I have the new v2 jlu wrangler and the v1 deadbolt. Could you give your personal experience and which one you prefer?
I like the utility of the V1 specifically the ability to run a brushless system with it. However, out of the box I like the V2 because of the super smooth control. And this is minor, but I like that the V2 has an led that let’s you know when your battery is running low.
On the JLU I am running +5mm extended axle shafts with heavy brass hexes. Mofo RC makes the kit and it’s excellent. If you don’t want to change your axle shafts, you can use hex extensions like treal.
@@CapeCrawlers have you had any problem ( still got stock link from servo ) I screwed the bolt into hub an snapped it inside, tomorrow try to fix lol, thanks for the info man!
Hey man thanks for the build and inspiration! I recently went with your tire and brass hun spacers and i got the beadlocks flipped so I can accomplish that deep dish look and a little extra on the sides but I cannot seem to get the wheels to fit to the brass hub spacers. I bought the same exact ones you had. Any help?
Hey Levi! The brass hex extensions and stamped steel wheels are really difficult to pair up. There are a couple of options here: 1) file down the brass hexes a little bit on each flat surface 2) apply copious amounts of elbow grease. I have been doing the latter. I typically press them in with brute force or even use a small mallet. After a couple times of this they loosen up. On a side note: the Injora stamped steel wheels accept aftermarket hexes with no issues.
They need some modification. And by modification I mean BRUTE force. I have to force them in often times using a mallet. They loosen up over time and have become more manageable, but boy were they rough initially.
No, no issues with the linkage. I have this motor in a c10 and gladiator as well and no issues there either. My deadbolt is on an aftermarket chassis so it’s probably not a fair comparison
I like the treal wheel nuts for anything that has hex extensions. On the JLU I just use the normal nylon wheel nuts as the axles have plenty of thread available.
Hey man! Me again, I've learned so kux from your videos about articulation and set up, it's really improved my rigs performance! I'm running into a slight issue with steering. I've added a decent amount of weight and feel like I'm struggling steering. I'm running the EcoPower 827, do you feel like with how heavy your rigs are the eMax handles it well? I'd love your insight! Thanks for your videos!
Glad to hear things have worked! I, personally, am not a big fan of the ecopower. I ran one for a brief time and I felt like it was slower than the Emax. Plus I had major clearance issues with it. I find the Emax's to be strong and fast. I do go through about one every six weeks on the Gladiator and the JLU though. My next servo will be a Mofo RC black label unit I think.
UPDATE: turns out I'm just an idiot and I've dropped it too low and the steering link hits the frame and stops it from turning lol. Stull curious to know your thoughts on the eMax though! Thanks!
@@CapeCrawlers Thanks for your replies and advice! I've got some adjustments to make! It's awesome to see a rig run so well without the furitek set up, always look forward to more!
Hey I've just been getting into the scx24s and you've been awesome to watch... I'm wanting to do the 4 link conversion on my jlu... I ordered the parts. Did you have to remove the factory bumper to clear the servo? Looks like you where able to keep a bumper (although not stock) Thanks!
I didn’t have to remove it, but I did have to trim the ears of the servo. I clip them off at a downward angle and then file them smooth with sandpaper.
@@evancrews9556 I ran the rc4wd scramblers for a long time and loved them. They seemed to work really well on the JLU. My favorite wheels are the stamped steel beadlocks from rc4wd or Injora. The ability to flip the hubs around is a huge advantage
I love the video! Very explanatory and helped me with some of the problems I was having. Just ordered the rc lion double barrel shocks and am so excited to see how they perform! One quick question though, should I go for portal axles or stay with the standard ones from a performance perspective? I’m starting to get deeper and deeper into this hobby
Thanks for watching! Regarding the portals, I think that depends on what you want to do with your build and what rig you are putting them on. To me, the gladiator felt like it needed the portals because I was getting hung up a lot. But the JLU or c10 don’t seem to have the same issues, so I opted only to put the portals on the gladiator. For pure performance, conventional axles would be better I feel because you can set the chassis lower and they are stronger. I would say build it out with all the other bolt ons and see what your performance is like and then make an educated decision at that point.
@@CapeCrawlers stuff I replaced. Cowboy head out a Lago one instead. Emax servo and aluminum mount. Shocks red double barrel.mofo brass knuckles and aluminum steering links. 4mm hex extension brass. Injora beadlock wheels aluminum and tires and brass dif covers
@@CapeCrawlers yes he does. I'm starting a different build to. I got an all aluminum chassis from Amazon. Putting that together. Sofar I got Emax servo and mount. Next to put in 66t injora motor. I've never done one
I've got a JLU very similarly built to yours, with upgraded axles, bumpers, links, double barrel shocks, overdrive gears in the front, wheels, and tires, as well as a servo, and upgraded to the micro komodo from Furitek, I am battling with its climbing ability, at steep angles it tends to torque twist and not stay planted. what would you recommend from a limiting strap and torque twist-eliminating standpoint?
Ok, this looks fun. Just ordered mine with a couple upgrades. Next I'll start building a course in the backyard. Thanks for the info.👍 Used to do a lot of RC flying and racing,but this looks a little more relaxing and perfect for the yard or indoors.
Make sure your servo mount supports a 4-link set up. I have hot racing and Injora servo mounts and both of those have worked well. You need a mount that’s threaded on both sides where the y-link currently attaches. Other than that it should be a direct bolt on with no other mods needed
Really cool! Just bought 3 used SCX24s, one of them being this model. I'm thinking of uppgrading it to something similar to this a few parts at a time. Does the stock electronics deal with the heavier parts reasonably well or should I start with the electronics?
The servo and motor do not handle extra weight very well. I would suggest proactively replacing them. Emax is a good servo upgrade, and LGRP and Injora make great brushed motor replacements.
