Thanks for taking the time to prepare this video. A few things that I feel are important that may have been missed. #1 Before beginning the process of changing oil on a Sea-Doo, always run the engine for 10 sec at 4k RPM AND cut-off the engine during the rev too. #2 After you siphon out the oil with you oil extractor, in drown mode (depressing throttle all the way) turn over the engine for 4 sec and reinsert siphon hose to drain additional oil. Repeat this 3 to 4 times and don't effin' leave the siphon hose in the dipstick like a dipsh*t. #3 Change those damn O-rings. The reason you had a hard time removing the oil filter cover is b/c the O-rings are dried-out and need to be replaced; they're not soft and malleable anymore.
I like your comments. But on your # 1 about running the engine for 10 seconds ( I'm guessing to heat up the oil and making it thinner, to be able to suck more out of the engine ). I was wondering if it is necessary to set up the hose in the back of the sea doo and have water going through the engine/super charger or is 10 seconds not enough time to cause any problems with the engine or the super charger? I don't know, just asking. I have the RXT IS 255, 2009 model
If you look at the front of the seat tray you will see a notice about changing the oil. They recommend you always plug in the water to the rear when you run the ski, especially because you should be getting it first up to operating temperature.
We just bought a GTR and a Spark. Coming up to the first service and the dealer wanted almost $650.00 to do an oil change on the two skis! Unbelieveable. Your vid was great. That's what I thought it would entail. I can do that and save all that $$.
Thanks for taking the time to post this. Regarding your oil level being a bit high at the end...the service manual for this motor states to check the oil when the motor is warmed up. It says to warm up the ski (owner's manual states NEVER more than 5 minutes on a garden hose; however, many people suggest never more than 2 minutes so as not to harm the carbon seal on the pump) but after warming it up...on a completely level surface...you must shut it down for 30 seconds to allow the oil to drain down into the appropriate reliefs etc. Then you check the oil level. I might suggest that your oil was a bit high because it wasn't warm enough and there wasn't a 30 second delay. Might just be too technical but that's what the manual states FWIW? Still thankful you posted this.
Good video. Just a tip. If you remove the filter bolt first, the oil in the filter housing will drain into the crank case and you can siphon it out with the rest of the oil. The filter housing holds about half a quart or so.
Had I cranked the motor over to get the last bit of oil out your statement about not running it enough would be correct. In this case I didnt so my high reading was because I put too much oil in it. I had an electric pump but it kept taking a crap on me so i got rid of it and went with a good ol hand pump. Much more reliable. Thanks for watching.
yeah I hear you,getting the oil level just right s more important than anything in these because at the hi side of the level check you can loose 500 rpm .better right in middle and it take a couple minutes to get the oil warm and everywere in motor to be able to check it correctly
Do you have to use the official Sea-doo XPS oil? Last oil change I bought the oil/spark plug kit from the dealer and did it myself but I've seen a few videos on here and it looks like people are using different brands. I know the manual tells you too but wondering if it's just one of those things that is not a big deal and makes no difference.
I have an IS 255 and there is literally no room to get in and pull the cap off and filter out I have been able to do that with swivel attachments but I just cannot get the new one in place and tighten it up it just is not sealing and I don't have enough room to get straight on to adjust it any ideas?
@@KK40384 You didn't show it, so wasn't sure. Also they are not listed on the parts list. Sadly I don't have O rings, but think will just try to use the old this time. Next time will be new ones.
I have the orange pump from harbor freight and when I pump the oil nothin comes Out as if there isn't any oil. Must I crank the engine "non start" first to get oil at the bottom or what? Getting frustrated. Thanks man
Not familiar with that pump. I tend to stay away from harbor freight stuff as it is junk 99% of the time. Sounds like you have a pickup hose that is too thick to fit all the way down into the crankcase to suck up the oil. Try a different pump.
I got mine at West Marine but pretty much any auto parts store should have something similar. Just ask for a fluid exchange pump. They are quite inexpensive.
yes the earlier models pre 2006 had hollow exhaust valves and some did fail. if that happens it will destroy the entire engine. replacing them isn't all that expensive.
i have a question, i reinstalled my battery after its been out recharging and it acts like the key is on the seadoo without it being connected to the jetski? it starts beepping like im trying to start it and clicking somwhere on the motor. it wont crank when i do try to start it?
Ricardo Constancio hi there, i use 2.5l without changing the filter. If i change the filter i use 3l. Best on your dipper is 20% above 'min' in cold. The oil will rise in operating temperature i guess.. less is best!
Yea I'm not sure why they only include 3 qts. Oil capacity is just over 3 not counting the oil filter housing so that would be closer to 3.5 qts. Mine may have been slightly overfilled also.
Thank you so much! You could make a great living going around working on the Rotax,.....I would hire you in a second to come check out my Speedster 150. Great,..did i say thanks?
Didnt run it long enough for checking the oil you can get a hi reading and its not , then you drain some and you end up low. whatever better video thean the rest but by electric pump tank
