Just did the valves on my 2004 Gtx. Really not that difficult doing it with the videos you have posted. Thank you for your time in creating these! I would have never attempted this without them
Really nice job, you are really thorough with your work, I will keep on watching your videos, use to work on aircraft for 23 years and I would work with you anytime, cheers
Wish you guys were my friends and lived close as I need 4stroke rotax repair. Very thorough videos. I’m a subscriber and have watched many. Very informative. Thanks and keep them coming pls 2013 sea doo gti155 limited is my ride
This video (ans for sure part 1 of it) are a very well and detailed explanation. While I have just "engine mayonaise" (water in oil and vice versa) I will most likely need to replace the head gasket and this this video takes away a lot of the worries I have had prior to touching it. Very well done job and good and detailed explanation!- The only question I have, is wheather you have any idea, if the aftermarket Head Gaskets are any good or if one should use the original only.
I've never done this before, but after watching this video and part one, I did do it myself. finished putting it back together 2 hours ago. I took photos and video as I went along just in case.
Nice video, big job big edit! I want mine valve also replaced as a precaution. How many hours do you think it stands before replacement is necessary. Mine has 135 hours. I make 35 hours a summer, and take my exhaust out of the ski at winter time. Should i replace my valves this year or next year, what would you do? Thank you
W Jansen Model years 2004 to 2006 had the problem valves since yours is a 2007 you should have the newer valves. The only way to be 100% sure is to remove the valve cover and read the number stamped at the very top of the valve stem the bad valves start with the number 72 and the good valves start with 75. The numbers are really small so you will need good light and a magnifying glass to read them.
3ftDeep Hi, thank you verry much for the information! iam scared to look now.. Another question that you probably know is, i got a "oil pressure gauge" but i dont know where to connect it on the engine. Someone told me that its somewhere near of the oil filter. Maybe you know.. When i know witch number i got on my valves i will leave info. Thanks.
W Jansen There are a few oil pressure switches on the engine. I'm not sure if you've got a third party gauge, but I'd start by going to the following URL, finding your model, and looking up the diagram for your engine: epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E&s1=a18c7077-267e-4ab6-9f35-5a043e32d3d0
Great video, tanks for taking your time and effort to document and help us other guys out! I have used a lot of time looking at several of your videos. I used one of your other your videos to replace carbon seal a while back! :-) Now... I have a 2006 RXT 215 with 2005 year engine, and a 2014 GTX 260. Last year the 2014 engine had SC gear breakdown and the complete longblock was replaced at a dealer. I have the defective longblock laying around. Now I have had the flywheel bolts break on my 2006 RXT so the engine is coming out. I have bought the parts nescessary for the flywheel fix from a 2009 model 255, and have some questions. I would greatly appretiate it if you could take your time to answer them for me! :-) 1) Can I use valves from the 2014 (100 hours) engine, instead of buying new valves? 2) What is the compound you use to sand down the valves and seat with the suction cup? Is this process necessarry if using the used valves from the 2014 engine? 3) Could I possibly just use the complete head from the 2014 engine? 4) I have noticed that the 2005 engine does not have the oil sprayer for the SC axle. Should I/is there a way to add this? A kit or something? Or will it work fine without? Thanks a lot again!! :-)
I don't have an angle gauge what would happen if I just torque the head bolts down to the correct torque? The video is great you did a did a great job very clear and descriptive thank you for the quick response.
You would run into serious problems. If you can’t get hold of an angle gauge you can make one out of cardboard or something similar. You can also probably do a good estimate for 90 degree angles, etc. Good luck and thanks for the kind words.
Adel Mckee It's not a new or rebuilt engine there is no break in required. First ride I stopped after about 10 minutes to check fluid levels and look for obvious leaks then just ride like normal. Thanks for watching the videos.
Hey there, I have a 2004 RXP with 145 hours on it, really worried about the valves, but not too sure how to check. Do I just take just the rocker cover off? Is there anything else I need to do? And do I need to replace any parts after taking off the rocker cover?
Joseph Pons Here's our response to a similar question a while back ...Remove the valve cover and get the number from the top of the valve stem with a magnifying glass. The bad valves start with a "72", and the later good valves start with 75. The valves starting with 72 are the ones that can corrode around the stem then the head falls off and can do a lot of damage. This usually happens to the exhaust valves as these are always in a moist environment because water is always present in the exhaust system. If you can do the work yourself it's a good off season project if you have to pay a shop to do the work the cost may be prohibitive on an older machine.
Good night. Very good video on how to change the valves of the engine 4 tec. is that I have a problem if you could help me a little. I will thank you very much. I have a 2004 sea doo
Hi, thank-you for your great videos. I am in search for some parts for seadoo RXT 215 2008 model engine. At the moment I am in India and the part's cost seems to be too high. The timing chain was broken and I need full gasket set , all valves , chain and tensioner. Will you please suggest some reliable parts suppliers other than OEM. This jet ski only worked around 13 hours and I opened the engine for an overhaul . Thank you.
Well done!! I though you went a little fast but still an awesome video. Also that blue stuff was lock tite right? And what if you dont have a drown mode key what do you recommend?
Thanks for the compliment! Yes, the blue stuff was Locktite 243 (actually, an equivalent). It's best to use a service manual when doing the work, as it sometimes recommends different Locktite products. We don't have a drown mode key. If you start up a Sea-Doo with the throttle fully squeezed, that's "drown mode", and it won't start up when you do that. You use the regular key. Drown mode is useful for a number of maintenance procedures, including changing the oil. Good luck!
Nice video to get in touch with the 4tec engines... May you have some advice for me: I have oil in coolant (no coolant in oil) on my 2013 GTI 130 - 240hours. Oil-cooler test was ok. No leaks / bubbles with air pressure on the water lines. What should i check - replace now? It was running fine untill „low oil warning“ - removed the seat and see the oil/water mixture in the coolant bottle :-(
Did you do the valve guides / seats at all ? I didnt see it in the video. Looks like that was all left intact, just swapped out the valves. Do you have a video for those parts or is that machine shop territory ? Im looking to tear apart my 2005 rxp 215.
No, we only did what is shown in the video. We did this as a preventative measure (i.e. the engine was otherwise in good shape), so we didn’t need to do much else.
I am replacing head gasket. And i have some pitting/corrosion on the head. I can see that yours has the same.. "round cirkle" around each sylinder.. let me discribe better- the head surface- you can se a " ring " as where the head gasket is tight around cylinder.. not all the way around.. but mine looks like yours.. i can slightly feel it with my finger nail.. anyways ,my head is clean and straight. No warp.. looks like yours.. is it ok to put it back as is? Or? Thanks
I have a 2008 RTX215 it has Riva Titanium valve retainers, Riva /ARP flywheel bolts I am reflashing with MaptunerX stage3 9000 rpm with Engine Tech xtreme 68-140 18 lbs @ 9000 rpm also Riva racing Thermostat, Riva Gen 3 intercooler with HKS blow off valve , Riva rear exhaust, OPAS block off, 4" ait intake, Auqua Sport exhaust spacer, Riva oil catch can, Solas 13/17r , Riva stainless wear ring, Riva pump wedge, Riva pump loader intake grate. My question here though is at that rpm which ill prob shoot for 8850-8900 will I need to replace stock valves will titanium and replace valve springs with something like a Riva setup. In your opinion
We don't get into the heavy mods like you have done to your machine so take this with a grain of salt. Anytime you increase the rpm the valve train needs some consideration usually lightening the mass and heavier springs to control the mass or a combination of both is recommended. For your 8900 rpm goal I would say heavier springs and lighter retainers are needed, titanium valves would also help but I'm not sure they are required. It would be best to check some of the online PWC performance forums to get an idea of what works, what doesn't and what is recommended, good luck with the build.
Hey I love all your videos! question, I’m looking at a 2005 GTX 155 with 213 hours. I’m wondering what would need to be done to make it more reliable? I’m thinking of doing the valves and timing chain, would you’d advise to do anything else when I’m that far into the engine? Thanks.
Not really. The valves can be an issue, so if you're doing those there's nothing else I can think of. The supercharger washers are an issue, but since you don't have one ...
I wish we did. We live in the chilly Pacific Northwest (near Vancouver, BC). I'd estimate about $900 in parts, and $1K in labor (at $100 per hour). You shouldn't need to do this on non super-charged engines, so if it's an option for you I wouldn't recommend it. If it's already dropped a valve, you'll spend a lot more than $2K, as there'll be other engine damage to deal with. Good luck!
Chatta Brony Remove the valve cover and get the number from the top of the valve stem with a magnifying glass the bad valves start with a 72 the later good valves start with 75. The valves starting with 72 are the ones that can corrode around the stem then the head falls off and can do a lot of damage. This usually happens to the exhaust valves as these are always in a moist environment because water is always present in the exhaust system. If you can do the work yourself it's a good off season project if you have to pay a shop to do the work the cost may be prohibitive on a 9 year old machine. If a valve does fail it usually does it in the most inappropriate place and can cause enough damage to require a full engine rebuild.
+steelerscrzy Parts required were: New intake and exhaust valves I used Supertech part numbers SEAEVI-3160S Exhaust and SEAIVC-3860S intake. You will definitely need a new head gasket and rocker shaft bolts these are stretch bolts and cannot be reused. Some other parts may be required depending on age and condition of the old parts. Valve seals, I replaced these as they are relatively cheap and not easy to replace afterwards. Head bolts, the old ones can be reused if they are within spec I decided to replace them, ARP 168-4201 head studs are another option. Intake plenum uses rubber seals so these are OK to reuse if they are in good condition, there is no gasket on the exhaust manifold. Valve cover gasket may need replacing it is a rubber gasket so it can be reused if in good condition. Cam sprocket bolts, I replaced these, torqued to spec and used red locktite if these fail all hell will break loose and $5.00 extra for new bolts is cheap insurance. If you are going to do this I strongly recommend getting a genuine Seadoo shop manual and follow the steps and torque values to the letter. Manuals can be found online for free, google "seadoo manuals" I cannot post a link here for obvious reasons. Good luck and thanks for watching our videos.
Yes, here's a link similar to a tool that is similar to the one we used: www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5ECUY/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=3ftdspor-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=b1934a8b1bf5ffa03da04263ced0ddb2&creativeASIN=B000F5ECUY
Hey guys got a question i have a 2003 seadpo gtx 4tec. Im having a bogging when i give it any throttle but will idel no problem when in the water. Compression is good, no codes using candoo pro, no coolant loss, no leaks. Any suggestions
Buenas tardes. Tengo una moto sea doo 2004 con el mismo motor 4 tec. lo mismo que usted hace en este video ya lo realice, pero no me enciende la moto , será posible que me podrias decir una idea de por que no enciende. se lo voy agradecer muchísimo. tiene comprecion, tiene coriente en las bujías y los inyectores si están funcionando. y no he podido dar con el problema.
Hell yes. Do you live anywhere near Huntington Beach, CA? lol I need to do this but I don't have all the special tools. What do you think a dealer or shop would charge on a GTX 155 non-SC?
please help, I have a 2006 GTI SE 130 and that has oil in coolant reservoir . Ive pressure tested the oil cooler and no leaks, changed the rear oil pump seal , next I was gonna change head gasket. It has 165lbs of pressure in each cylinder. Do you think this is the next step I should do to find the leak ? any suggestions?
@@3ftDeepChannel just watched it that's an awesome video but it's not in there would you happen to have the specs by chance I'm leaking oil from the timing chain tensioner I'm going to change the crush washer and see if that helps but I don't wanna over tighten Thanks in advance
I finally found a spec. It's for a 2012 GTR 215 with internal intercooler, but if I were you I would use the same: 17 N.M (150 lbf.in) (note INCH pounds, not foot pounds). Good luck.
I'm ready to put this baby back together. One thing that concerns me is the foot pound's of torque for the head bolts. The smaller screws get 89 pound of torque. The head bolts are only 30 pounds which doesn't seam enough for head bolts. I imagine when I use the angel gauge that will add additional poundage? Your videos made this job a lot easier but boy you had to be a contortionist to get the hose claim off of the exhaust manifold.
Be very careful when you read the torque measurements. Lbf.in is “inch pounds” and lbf.ft is “foot pounds”. Yes, when you add the angles it will torque it even more. Good luck!
No we did not resurface the head. The engine did not have any problems and was running good the valves were replaced as a precaution as the earlier valves have a high failure rate. The head was cleaned of old gasket material and re installed on the block it's still running good to this day. If the engine had overheated or had a head gasket failure we would have had a machine shop check the head for warping.
@@3ftDeepChannel I would really like to see how to resurface these heads. its as if the larger valves don't fully seat into the head causing straight edge to stop when trying to slide over the valves when checking for straightness. if thats the case now can the head even be surfaced without cutting new pistons from hitting the valves.
Is the "smoke" white or dark? If it's white, it's likely water vapor or coolant. Coolant will have a distinctly sweet smell. Bluish smoke is burning oil, while dark grey is fuel burning. White may be okay as it's likely just burning off water vapor. Does it use up oil quickly? Does the coolant reservoir have any black specks in it?
What make and model of machine do you have? If you have a Sea-Doo, the valves don't get adjusted. Most likely you've got a bad piston ring, or a valve isn't seating properly. Do you know if you're getting much blow-by?
@@3ftDeepChannel it’s a 2003 GTX. I did find out after further inspection that the valves cannot be adjusted😂. I’ve never worked on anything like this before. And I’m not really sure about anything. However, I’m fairly certain it’s the piston ring. I put some oil in the spark plug hole and the compression went up. Not quite to normal tho
If your compression went up then its not your rings with adding oil di a leakdown test you should be able to find out that way with the valve cover off
Molykote is a very thick grease that withstands high temperature without losing its form. On Sea-Doos we only use it on the coil packs to prevent water from getting in under them and flooding the spark plug chamber. It is no longer used in the new engines where the coil packs are screwed down.
+Андрей Лебедев If you have oil in the coolant it could be a leaking head gasket or a leaking oil cooler. These are the first two items I would check. Good Luck.
+3ftDeep Thank you. A problem with oil cooler. Head gasket fine. I have some questions. Help me please. 1 Where do you buy spare parts? 2 Is it possible to re-set used head gasket? 3 What is the torque bolt head?
what is the knock sensor plug? how to test it in order to be sure that it is this part that must be changed. I have the code P0326 when I accelerate above 6000 laps around, below I do not have this code.
Most of the time it's the knock sensor. You may be able to test it by getting a copy of a Service Manual for your machine. It would likely involve reading the resistance across the sensor. Although it's often the sensor, it may actually be okay and reading a problem with your engine, so you need to trouble-shoot. Maybe borrow a sensor from a friend's machine, first and see if the problem goes away. Good luck.
This was done at 140hrs which is not a lot of run time in the life of an internal combustion engine because of the low hours we decided to lap the valves as the seats were still in good condition with no signs of wear. If this was a higher hour engine or showed signs of valve seat wear then re cutting the valve seats would be a good idea.
Great! I'd like to get as many things as I need from your channel because you have been so helpful. I inherited some older watercraft, and I am rebuilding them in Yakima, Washington. I may need to bend your ear once in a while! Thanks!
Sorry, I forgot in that old video we used an old analog style (I can’t remember where it came from or brand). But we now use a digital CDI gauge like this to measure both torque and angles: www.amazon.com/dp/B078Z3QNLB/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=3ftdeepsports-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=5546d141202e5333fd84feb862811db3&creativeASIN=B078Z3QNLB&th=1
Hi, i am losing instantly coolant into the engine but cant see where from ,as soon as i pour it in i can see it coming from underneath the engine from somewhere i can't see, if you could give me any ideas based on your experience i would immensely appreciate it, thank you!!
Thanks for your earlier comment. The good news is it sounds like the leak is outside the engine, not inside (your oil would appear "milky" if it was). It's probably a bad hose connection. The best thing to do is to follow the cooling system hoses and use a flash light and a mirror at the end of a pole to see below the hoses at their connections. Sea-Doo has expanded diagrams of all their models on their website: www.sea-doo.ca/shop/essentials/parts-.html. Start by selecting "Sea-Doo" on the drop down menu on the left (not "above" like the instruction on the page says). That should help. It could also be your water pump housing gasket, which you can see on the PTO Cover And Magneto section of their parts diagrams, but that's less likely. Good luck!
3ftDeep Hi, thank you for the reply, you are right, there is a broken hose off and the fittings from the ride plate, would you be able to tell me if you can purchase new ride plates? I cant seem to find them on the net. Thanks so much for any leads. Vlad
Yes, you can buy the ride plate, but most likely you'll just need to replace the fittings, which are also available. I recommend you take a look at the following link to see what you need, and purchase it directly from Sea-Doo from their website: www.sea-doo.ca/shop/essentials/parts-.html. Good luck.
3ftDeep must be my luck ;-) the ride plate is not on their spare parts list lol hopefully its just the fittings as you mentioned will undo it and have a look thank you for your help though
No. In the older models it's the exhaust valves that had the problem. Apparently, some of the 300 HP models are having the same problem with the intake valves.
I replaced The Valves Last Week On My 03 GTX Supercharged. I Put ABOUT 5 Hours On It And It Shut Off On Me In The Middle Of The Bay. Yesterday I Pulled The Plug And It Was Smashed So I Pulled The Head And One Of The New Intake Valves Had Broken In Half And Smashed The Piston. Destroyed My Engine And Cylinder Head. I Really Want To Send You Some Pictures Of It
I'm not sure. You should call a local dealer in NY and ask them. They should be able to give you an estimate over the phone. Unfortunately, we don't know anyone in NY who could help you. Good luck.
The only official source is your Sea-Doo dealer. There are other sources online if you Google "Sea-Doo Service Manual Download", but I can't link to them as I think they sell pirated copies. I also can't guarantee that they don't have viruses, etc. Good luck.
