Great video. Well done and articulate. Some steps we missed. I personally don’t trust plastic zip ties for any length of time unless it’s manufactured recommended or not critical. Like a small engine fuel line to close for comfort. Lol 🔥🔥 School of hard knocks I guess. Live and learn.
Thanks and glad you liked it. Zips are commonly used there but yes a SS ear/oetiker clamp is best and oem. A metal screw clamp is a mistake unless you use two and offset them 180 so they stay in balance.
Thank you. I'm glad this helped. I use the channel lock trick all the time ..works so fast and easy. I made another one this year about aftermarket bellows and problems with them
@@jonparkmac that is a great trick. My jet pump put up quite a fight after 30 years of never being removed. I'm glad to be giving the ski new life all over again.
Thanks man. Helps me find parts when I drop them .. and I do all the time lol .. I use purple power and let it slosh around on the trailer returning home
Subscribed! Great video - very detailed and informative. I just ran into an issue yesterday with my 96 GTX at the lake where I would rev super fast, but the exhaust pressure was the only thing moving me. A few searches and I made it here - hoping this will be the fix I need as it seems relatively straightforward. Definitely going to inspect the wear ring as well as these are new to me.
Great video explaining it. I was wondering how or where the water stops before entering the hull and now I know it comes into the actual rubber bellows boot and stops where the carbon seal contacts the metal collar and also the two orings inside the metal collar. Pretty vulnerable setup! Those two cheap hose clamps on that eubber bellows are very important!😊
It's quite reliable actually. That's why seadoo used it for many years. The other option is a sealed carrier bearing, which is also good ..but can tear out the thru-hull fitting if the bearing seizes. Those aren't cheap clamps, they're thicker stainless steel from factory
Thanks for the reply Johnathon , I have a SBT # 77-105 Rebuild Kit and it does not include a metal C Ring but it has an Extra rubber O- ring that I can NOT figure out where it goes . Do you think it's an upgrade (maybe downgrade) from the stock metal C- ring ( I did call SBT and they were no help ) and if so would you trust it or use the old metal C -clip ? Also the boot is a lot firmer than the old one, hope ok ?
The one you got is for a shaft with no c-clip but an oring. It's a different setup. You might be able to use the c-clip. Dry fit it and see. Inside the metal hat there should be two rubber rings ..those are for preventing leaks. Don't use OEM bellows. They are too stiff or too flimsy. See my recent video on exactly that subject.
Hi Johnathon , I just purchased a 1997 Sea Doo Speedster (2x 720 engines) with some serious Cavitation issues and was about to just replace the Carbon Seal set but my driveshaft has some corrosion pits right at the outer O ring mating surface to the Carbon Seal Metal Support Ring and since this is fixed relative to the driveshaft do you think i can just fill the void between O rings with RTV ( I know it might be harder to remove ring next time ) ?
Great video - I have a 96 GTX and I rebuilt the carbs, replaced all fuel lines, new fuel selector, cleaned and rebuilt RAVE valves, but now I can only seem to get to about 3500/4000 RPMs and can't get above a very slow cruising speed (20km/h). My next step is to pull the pump, replace the wear ring and perform this service you show in your video. What are the odds this corrects my issue?
If the motor doesn't rev past that, then it's not the wear ring or pump. If it does, the it's wear ring or cavitation ..or worst case stripped drive shaft splines. Try disconnecting the rectifier ..they sometimes interfere with ignition.
Great video and detailed explanation. I have a new to me Seadoo Challenger with single engine. Engine starts and runs great. My issue is the boat won't plane. I have replaced the wear ring and oil in pump. Impeller secured nicely and tightened pump to hull after a few in and outs in water. The outcome is boat still didn't plane. Can't seem to get past 10mph running really 7-8k rpms. Every now and then it'll plane and take off. Was told maybe a carbon ring issue. Would going through this rebuild process fix my issue?
I am getting water into my hull, about 2-3" in 24 hours if the seadoo is just sitting in the water. I didn't think it was coming in from where the carbon seal meets the metal disc (support ring I think it is called). There is no water dripping where these 2 surfaces meet. It appears to be coming in at the thru hull. Is this common, and any suggestions on how to replace the thru hull? or am I missing something?? Thanks for the excellent video.
They can leak around the thru hull fitting. There's a repair kit for it. I've not done this there, but if you clean it real good with acetone and apply thin layer of 3M 5200 it may stop it for a season or so. Check the back bolts where the shoe mounts to the stern. There's also bolts that come up from the grate. Those can leak
@@oldsalt8011 no, just have to remove the air box. But you want 3000 out of water and 1500 in water. Don't tune or even run out of water. So if you are trying to lower the idle cuz it seems to high on trailer .. mistake. Also if you do change idle you then need to readjust the oil pump and line up those marks.
@@jonparkmac Thanks, I'll try to check for the dumb stuff like a leaking vacuum line and a stuck throttle. Yea, I have to be careful that I don't create more problems. I'll look for those marks on the oil pump just so that I can be wise to them. Thanks again for the reply.
I'm finding this to very difficult, is there anything i need to know that would make this easier. I cant get the prop off of the back (the part with the prop) took all 4 bolts off and detached all the small hoses and still cant get the unit off to get to the drive shaft... help
I mostly use oetiker where it matters. In that spot zip tie is commonly used .. but yeah SS ear clamps always good. Just never use a metal worm drive clamp there
You mean the oetiker OEM clamps. Not good to reuse as they are usually damaged on removal. Use new ones if you have them, need clamp tool. in this case zip ties fine, and common.
A new one will last a long time. Supposed to check every 100 hours. People burn them down running the ski out of water and shorten the life. Keep it wet and grease the pto zerk
Can carbon seal cause you to loose top end speed? Reason I’m asking my top end speed is 48 mph with 7200 rpms. I should be able to hit 55 to 60 mph with my seadoo gtx 155 but hard stop at 48 mph
Yes it can if it's a weak seal. The pump can suck air thru the seal and cause cavitation. Other thing to check is a tight wear ring ..tolerance should be 1 mm or less for max performance
Wouldn’t be nice if seadoo would utilise the same tech as Yamaha and Kawasaki and use a bearing instead of a carbon seal, Did you know? FACT; seadoo used to use a bearing and a stainless steel ware ring pre 1996 They quickly found out that the flaw with the motor is it only had three motor mounts, therefore highly increasing the risk of engine miss alignment causing the bearing to buckle and seize and the impeller would violently hit the stainless steel wear ring. At the time it would cost seadoo a lot of money to pay rotax to change their design, so instead they decided to make wearable items and charge the customer for the parts. Therefore seadoo makes money on the entire life of the jetski Food for thought Yet people keep buying these things You can’t make this up
@@jonparkmac can you elaborate on this? Kawasaki and Yamaha use bearings and in the 25+ years I’ve been riding I’ve never heard of that happening to these brands, If this was happening to seadoos, then why would people keep buying them, So you are saying people prefer the carbon seal rather than having the issues with the engine mounts fixed and run a bearing like the other two manufacturers without any wear items? I highly doubt it...
It's clear you are bent on bashing the Sea-Doo brand in general. Yes a ton of people buy them and enjoy them .. so you'll have to suck it up and move on
@@jonparkmac oh didn't know this was a 2 stroke. I assumed it's 4 and that's what i was asking for. I need to do this repair and seen on another video that Sea Doo recommends removing the oil
Need to replace or ski will sink. Check by feeling the pressure with your hand .. should be little snug and not loose or too tight. Check hull often for water
I ordered from Amazon, but OSD marine has oem ones. This is working good for me. www.amazon.com/dp/B0713RZRLC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_25YCRMFFMV7X1CF7MJQY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@jonparkmac Are you still happy with that kit? I ordered the same but unfortunately carbon seal came in with a knick in it. Debating returning and buying a different kit, or just having it replaced.
What state is the Westside Marine business app I just tried to Google them there’s one in Arizona I just want to Texas so where did you get the parts at because I have two 1997’s and I never knew that you had to replace those
