Haha there have definitely been moments when I've thought "have I bitten off more than I can chew here?!" Then I put my big girl pants on and get on with it 🤣
Enjoy your series of videos. These are good for trades and designers that don't get out to site much. As a self-employed architectural technician, I specify this type of construction on ALL of my extension jobs, this has been a method of construction in Scotland for as long as I can remember. I design things slightly differently, but there are several ways to construct, as timber frame details vary. I noticed you have double cripple studs but no full height stud at wider door opening. One thing I design differently, is the lintol over the side door, I put this at the top of the panel below the double header, simply in case the client changes dimensions of windows and doors changing the head height, easier to change infill timbers than to relocate lintol !!! I would also show noggins (dwangs in scotland) at edges of sheathing/flooring, spec of rigid insulation has to be high for U-Values to be acheivable to regs. We have calcs done for U-value and interstitial condensation. Good to see the progress, keep up the good work.
Thanks mate, really interesting to hear the differences. I do put king studs in later on, I just hadn't done them when I filmed that. The studs were meant to go at the join of the OSB, but the labourer didn't remember that!
Timber frame buildings definitely the way to go I know not much cheaper in the long run but you can do a lot of the work yourself with a bit of research really liking the content
That's exactly the way I viewed it. I enjoy the process, save a ton on the labour, and it's better insulated. Thanks for the comment - glad you're enjoying it still!
Abs brilliant mate . Your right ya don’t see many in uk done like yours . When are we going to catch up with the rest of the world . This is the best way , fastest way . Can put a ton of insulation in void . Weather doesn’t stop ya working either
Hi mate great video, If your attaching a kit to a brick wall you can cut a stick to the size of the kit, Staple dpc on back and level it and pack it to suit Bolt it on,. Then you can take an accurate size from stick to the edge of the building and your not trying to a hold a frame and level it.
Binge watchi g this now, but gonna have to have a break for tea or the wife will be very unhappy. But before I go, can't remember what it was, but something you said in this one made me wonder what size the timber is that has been used to frame out the walls. What is it?
We've been framing out in 6x2 (150x47mm in new money). That gives enough space for the airgap and insulation requirements, and strength for 2 storeys of building.
This is brilliant, watching as you go on. My only question is, why don't you remove the pebble dash render first? We're looking at starting our extension this year, I was going to do the same out of timber, building the majority myself but due to a new disability, I can no longer do this and have to get a builder in! Brick & block but hey ho.
Thanks mate. Really sorry to hear your plans have go awry slightly with the build... hopefully you can still be heavily involved though. I was in a fortunate position that our pebble dash is very solid and can be rendered over directly (not always possible when it's flimsy or old) and internally we can dot and dab over it with plasterboard. I removed it in the sections where I thought it was needed in order to get a secure fixing between the timber and the walls.
question im looking at building my own timber frame extension. very similar to this. when putting your timber frame together do you just use a nail gun or timber lock? i understand why and where to use the chemical bolts. but unsure of when touse the nail gun and when to use the Timber lock. thanks
You would generally use nails...they are strong and much more flexible, which is really important in the building, as it will need an amount of movement over time. It's also a hell of a lot quicker with a nail gun than using a noisy impact driver and timber locks.
I'm building a timber frame and want to use external tiles on the outside can I use them tile backer boards with blue insulation inside fixed to the timber frame?
My suspicion is "yes" but it's worth checking their weather rating/strength for external applications (high winds/storms etc.)... I've not seen them used before, so structurally they might not be appropriate, despite being weather proof
Loving your videos, did your planning cover the dormer and the wrap around all at once? I’ve just got similar approved on a bungalow , time to start building 😀
Awesome to hear mate! Best of luck with it. Let me know if you want to soundboard anything or ideas, happy to help/give my thoughts. We split our planning in two because of the size of the dormer and the size of the rear roof on the ground floor extension. Our planning consultant (linked to the architect and structural engineer) strongly advised splitting them into two, the loft as Permitted Development and the rest as householder planning. It went through fine like that.
Love the videos, interesting to see building of this size done in the UK timber framed! Always been interested in that idea so it's cool to see it being done 👌🏼 Where abouts in the UK is is this? Nice videos, subscribed 👌🏼
A fine job, you put your noggin's in a straight line as they should be, 👍😁 Why didn't you sheet out the first floor before building the walls for the second floor?
No real reason to be honest mate...there have been a few jobs that I've done in a slightly random order, but only because I've been "in the mode" of framing, or sheathing etc. It wasn't critical to do one before the other, so I just cracked on I think.
Good shout mate, thanks. In a few days I'm going to be posting a short video with a current minor issue I've found, could you keep an eye out for it? I'd be keen to get your suggestions on it!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder I'm binge watching your content at the moment. Your presentations are very good, very clear and concise. Your work is tight and you take a belt and braces approach. I'm a disciple of over engineering things, 👍😁 You went with a single bottom plate on your walls. Technically if the wall is load bearing the top and bottom plates are meant to be doubles. That said you have stacked your rafters over your studs and your studs over your joists so weight is directed through the framing to the foundations. Again these are my observations, not criticism. I have subscribed to your channel so I will be getting notified of any future videos. That's what YT is such a great medium for tradesmen, we can share knowledge, 👍 😁 🔨 🇮🇪
I was really interested in trying Advanced Framing techniques from the states, building the studs and joists and rafters all in line so loads are directly transferred, as you've noted, except with Advanced Framing they build at 600 centres. My structural engineer said "no" in as many words, but I still tried to use the technique just at 400 centres lol.
It is pushed right back against the outside skin of OSB, creating a slight air-gap inside the room (between the insulation and the vapour check barrier). The airgap internally was specified by the structural engineer, so I'm guessing the risk of condensation is minimal. The moisture should be stopped from the outside by the membrane on the OSB, and the vapour check barrier on the inside stops moisture/condensation from the inside of the room.
Condensation generally occurs with older style "cold roof" construction, with either no insulation or insulation between or under the rafters. Modern flat roofs are "warm roofs" with insulation above the rafters so they don't get cold enough to attract condensation.
That's true about condensation, so you use a membrane to ensure there's no moistures transfer on a warm roof. You can't build structural walls using warm roof techniques because rigid PIR doesn't hold much weight, meaning you have to insulate between the rafters. With a depth of 130mm between the studs, we have great density of insulation, and 170mm between the roof rafters (+40mm superquilt on the inside AND outside - that's coming up in another video). So long as a cold roof system can ventilate over the top of the roof, and you have a vapour check barrier, the chances of condensation are very low.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder I cannot wait for the end result ,also why didn't you put Any support between the concrete and the floor joists? just asking , otherwise you ve got yourself a subscriber !
Just playing to my strengths (and passion). I don't know anything about brick and blockwork, as you'll see in a previous video lol! I understand timber and really enjoy working with it. Incidentally it's also far more thermally efficient than blockwork, and it builds a bit faster too.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder is it cheaper than the conventional brick block construction. I didn’t realise you could go two story with timber every day a school day Great vids keep up the good work.
I believe it is cheaper...not specifically because the materials are cheaper (all the timber for this build was £9k) and because the cavities are thicker than brick you spend a bit more on PIR insulation which costs more than mineral wool used between brick skins. But it goes up quicker for sure, and with time equalling money, I think it's cheaper (and more efficient)
Good question! It's because of heat transfer, cold bridging and the insulation properties of timber and mineral wool. When you build with brick, you have more thermal mass because if the density of the block work, so with a 100mm cavity you can get away with using mineral wool, even though it's not as efficient. With timber frame (be it a loft conversion or a house) the thermal mass of OSB is much lower, so all external walls need rigid PIR. That being said, rigid PIR is far more efficient, so although there's more thermal mass with brick and block, it's more efficient using timber and PIR. My walls are around 70mm thinner than a typical brick and block cavity wall, but are far more efficient in insulation terms.
Good point, but not in this instance. I'm running all my own electrics, and working with a sparkie to get them all done by the book. But I'm also running a slim internal service void in my walls on the inside of the room. I am going to counter batten the internal walls, run my cables, and then plasterboard over the top of them. That way I don't affect the insulation or the integrity of the vapour check barrier.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder thanks for replying, yes makes sense if you’re counter battening. I lived in Canada for over 20 years as a carpenter and this is the way we build over there, so it’s nice to see a place over here being built that way . We always build the subfloor first and then build the walls laying down on a nice flat and level floor, that way you get good fixings through the sill plate and top plate, then sheet the walls, then stand them up and then brace them, it’s a lot easier and more efficient . I’ll be looking forward to seeing the rest of your project 👍
That's a great method and makes a lot of sense. That would have been the way I would have approached it if I didn't have a specification from my structural engineer. Cheers for the comment/support mate
wow... thats is not how you should be doing a timber frame at the rear. your upper frame should not be built directly off the top plate of frame below.building control should not be passing that let alone an engineer . and you have timber lintels without cripple studs either side. never one for bashing people doing things but when there are basic structural mistakes being made, felt the need for comment . sorry.
