I had 20 suits and one topcoat made by Mr. Kent in the late 1980's and they are the finest pieces of clothing I have...and I still wear all of them. John is a delightful person to work with as is his shirtmaker, Mr. Lachter who has also made many shirts (and a bath robe) for me.
On another note, I sold ZZ Top 12 Armani suits for their Eliminator tour when I worked at Marshal Fields in the Town and Country Mall in Houston Texas in the 80s.
It's horse hair on the weft, and whatever on the warp. They might produce syntetic types now. Horse hair is very spring. Alot of fabric houses are making similar fabrics for curtains and upholstery, which does give me some headaches explaining to the designer that it just wont work for what they want it for.
Er... Kiton (superlative maker of ready to wear garment) is more expensive than most of the bespoke houses of Savile Row. In making a suit, cutting to a precision of a micron doesn't serve any kind of purpose other than saving cloth. Your suit will fit (feel) better because your tailor will be able to adjust the fit to your stance and minute features, not because the cloth will have been cut with a laser...
Fyi, the number on wool suiting and woven coat fabric has nothing to do with thread count. They aren't cotton percale sheets. it is the meters of yarn a single pound of wool can be spun into. the higher the number the finer the cloth. This is a standard started in Australia, now used around the world. Clearly this guy can sew, but he knows nothing about weaving.
