The shims seem like the coolest aspect, was hoping someone would eventually create something like that. As with my crowns I feel like the actuation point is too low with standard switches and too high with speed switches. Nice to see the shims can be purchased separately. Might also snag a button for testing purposes. But they seem unnecessarily complex and overly designed compared to the crowns for no apparent reason. Either way thanks for the video.
This might sound ridiculous but it works perfectly for Crown 202s: Toilet paper. In the cross shaped hole in the plunger, put a TINY ball of toilet paper in it and use something like a very small flat head screwdriver to mush it around in the crevice till it's even'd out. I put O rings on all my crown 202s and added toilet paper, they have only enough travel that resting my fingers on them doesn't set them off. For some reason, having the connector pins alligned vertically is necessary to keep accidental presses from being an issue. You really can't get better actuation than this.
Can these take in a box switch? I know you have to clip the two plastic pegs off of a 5 pin/PCB mounted switch. However, I know the Crown 202/203 do not take any box switches due to the cap design. The Gamerfinger can take a box switch but the size of the middle peg needs to be close to a Cherry otherwise it will fly out of the Gamerfinger button. Qanba Gravity buttons only take in their more proprietary Omron Romer G switches and soldered on only. A modded Sanwa OBS-MX button can take a 5 pin/PCB mounted box switch but either you have to solder it directly or solder in hotswap sockets on the PCB. Besides cutting the two pegs of a 5 pin or just use a typical 3 pin, does the cap of the Alutimo accommodate a box switch?
interesting, ill have to try these out. looks like a pain to install new switches, but ive had all the mech switches and gamerfingers are NOT rage tested (slap buttons too hard and either your switch doesnt work, you break the thin lip around the button, or the plunger breaks), i could never get the crowns working after i disassembled them, and the paradise arcade one i had to solder in which i like to hotswap
The contact cylinder is one of the challenges to getting a new switch in. Once it pops out of the housing, you better have good eyesight or buy extra units. Unless you use tweezers, you're not getting it back in the tiny holders. Even with them it's a challenge. I sell these, but I question Seimitsu's thinking on this specific design approach to protecting the terminals.
the crown 202 buttons were very much a pain to change out and much worse, you usually could break either the legs or the terminals. This design is a big improvement imo.
I've already ordered a set of these and eager for them to be delivered, but I'm curious about something. The most common thing that breaks for me on these buttons are the tabs on the button caps that keep them in the plunger. If that were to happen to one of the caps of the Alutimo, would getting a replacement PS-14-GN 30mm convex cap fit just fine?
Afraid not - I compared the two caps. The ALUTIMO cap has a shorter internal height. The PS-14-GN is also designed completely different. You'll see when you get them (patience - we got flooded with orders today).
@@focusattackcom bit of a bummer, but still super stoked to play with these. Not world ending in the slightest. I'll make do. I appreciate the speedy reply, thank you!
I personally think they sound way better. Don’t have a ton of experience with 202s as I used them once on a friends fightstick and my Alutimos are modded with box navy’s
sdora.jp/review/633/. I've not yet looked into whether our 30mm silencers with tab cut will work with these. I'm considering a model to work similar to the 1mm shim.
