Thanks for the video. I notice that when you flip over the second rag, you take the surface that your hand oils have been on and place those oils on the surface you are attempting to clean. A better approach is to four fold the second rag and to never let a fold your hand has been on to touch the surface you are cleaning
@@ClassicCarRestorationClub While that is, indeed, a great tip, wouldn’t the “acid” in the self-etching primer be strong enough to null & void what little bit of hand residue that would be left on that final side of the “wiping” towel, or no??? Genuinely curious. Hope you both have a great day and HAPPY HOT RODDING!!!
I agree with OldSchoolCars. I'm also surprised that you were able to get the metal clean with one paper towel. as it usually takes numerous passes, folding the towel or cotton rag several times & even several towels/rags.
Those black grey spots on the the steal before you primed it was cancer aka rust...you should have used maratic acide to kill and etch the steel... then use vinegar and distilled water to neutralize acide then use phosphoric acide as metel prep to get ride of flash rust.
Baking soda mixed with water is a nutrilizer ....vinegar is just a milder acid then muriatic acid ...I used distilled water with baking soda in a spray bottle and a clean cloth to wipe off after I acid wash patches and rust
Ive done this on my bonnet rattle can self etch and gave it a light sand two days later when i wanted to clean it down with 2k it removed my paint.. i rather went wit luxor self etch primer all seems good
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Hello I am painting a bike and I can’t find an answer anywhere can you use normal primer on steel and will it effect the paint job or do you have to use etching primer thank you
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So if I have a bare metal spot from welding in patch panels, do I use self etch first then body filler on top or body filler first then self etch to cover any metal still showing?
In this situation I would place my fillers directly on bare metal, then with mixed materials to prime over I would use a two-part epoxy primer to seal up the surface. Many claim you can apply body filler over self-etch without issue, but I generally try not to, although I have used filler over epoxy primer without ever having any adhesion issues.
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I've been told that self-etch should only be applied to bare metal, not the painted part of car as it may damage the paint. Yet I see you spraying on painted portion. Comments ?
I have a surface with a mix of paint and metal. Its inside of my car, not an important spot by any means. If I properly sand and clean up the painted spots, will self etching primer stick to the paint?
What keeps it in the steel can . Ive always wondered why the acid is strong enough to etch steel but somehow stays in a steel can for years. Ive seen .5% muratic fid its way through streel 5 gal bucket over several months. Easy explanation would be a coating in the can , much like a pop can has but the stir ball would f-that up. 🤷
Great question... The key to getting paint to stick well to bare metal is all in the metal prep and using the right primers. Self etching primer contains a mild acid that actually etches the bare metal to create a superior bond between the primer and the metal. Once the area is coated in self etching primer more traditional primers can be used to build out the surface. I hope this helps.
You'll find people on both sides of this answer. I have used body filler on self etch, but generally self etch is never very thick and only provides a good surface to apply a primer surfacer or primer sealer. If I know I am going to be applying body fillers or glazing putties, I prefer to use 2-part epoxy primers as a base. This keeps the metal from flash rusting and gives your body filler a rock solid surface to attach to. The hobbyist builder generally has a project in the bodywork phase of the build much longer than a production bodyshop does and flash rust is a real hazard. There are those that argue to never apply body filler to anything but bare metal, and those that claim epoxy primer is just as good or better than bare metal. I epoxy prime all bare metal, and have never had body filler fail on any car in the last 45-years and some of those cars I still have today. Wrench Safe, Mark
If you don't use crap from the can, instead use normal 2k wash primer, after about half an hour it must be primerer with acrylic primer without sandind. Selfetch primer is not sandable. There is some glue between it's components, so acrylic primer stick's to it very good
im painting truck door starting at bare metal. i have self etch primer. do i need to add another primer on top of the etch primer in order for the base coat to stick to it? or just 2 or 3 layers of etch primer then base then clear coat?
Typically we only apply a medium coat of Self Etch, and allow it to dry. it is then scuffed with a grey Scotchbrite pad then a few coats of epoxy primer are applied. You can topcoat directly on the Self Etch primer, but epoxy primer also acts like a sealer to protect against contaminants affecting the top coat paint.
@@ClassicCarRestorationClub thanks for response!! what epoxy primer do u suggest on top of finish right etch primer? and do i sand the epoxy primer with 320,500,600,800 then base top coat then clear? i dont want a line inside but im not paintin the inside. how do i keep from makin a line on the other side if i tape inside edge before spraying? what pressure do i spray the gun at? 30 psi on the regulator?
Hi Jimmie! Self-Etch Primer is only applied to bare metal. A light coat of self-etch or epoxy primer would be a good base for high-heat primer on valve covers. Thanks!
Question please: I did some body work (filler + 2k primer) on my fender and two doors but I ended up with small spot of bare metal...and my question is: can I spray the bare metal spots with the self etch primer and paint my first base coat over without sanding it down, or simply spray the epoxy primer over the entire panel and paint over it right away without sanding down the epoxy primer? Thanks in advance for the answer
Hello Sam, Thank you for contacting us. Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge in classic car restoration and maintenance. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content. If you are interested in becoming a member to the Classic Car Restoration Club, please click on the special offer below: go.classiccarrestorationclub.com/C23602 If you have any further questions, please chat, email, or contact Customer Service at 1-855-706-3534. We greatly appreciate your business! Sincerely, Michael Classic Car Restoration Club Video Membership
Hi can anybody help me please? I am about to prime a project I need to spray top and bottom of it not just a flat panel. My plan was to hang it using plastic wire from a strimmer/ weed wacker, will the primer eat into the plastic or is it safe? Thanks
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Hi Jack, Zinc primers are great for items that will be in Very Corrosive conditions like boat trailers, but I've seen no real benefit for classic cars. For initial prime on large areas I prefer Epoxy primers (like PPG DP90) as it has great adhesion and acts as a sealer too. Self Etch works great for small or spot work though and often I'll scuff it lightly after dry and prime with a two-part Primer Surfacer (like PPG K36). Primer surfacer will allow you to block sand the body and smooth out minor defects in the body or fill sanding scratches in metal and body fillers. Once the car is blocked (often I block out the finish 2 or 3 times applying additional coats of Primer surfacer between sandings) I often topcoat with Epoxy Primer to act as a sealant until we're ready for paint. Then the Epoxy primer is cleaned, scuffed and painted
@@ClassicCarRestorationClub where is everyone buyin the ppg? i cant find it anywhere. do i have to set up a business account on phone with them? im not a business
In our area there is still a few auto parts suppliers that offer paint supplies and a couple of them carry PPG. The one we use most is Welle Auto Supply www.welleauto.com/ Although there are many good paint manufacturers I would start by seeing what brands your local auto body supply houses carry... and they can offer comparable product suggestions. Unless you live in California, you should have access to buying auto paint without being a business. I honestly am not certain what restrictions California may have on sales, but I imagine some.
@@ClassicCarRestorationClub well i found one place other than homedepot and lowers,home depot or lowes doesnt sell ppg for automobiles. the place closest is so far away still and no ppg brand.. i looked online at ppg and its so confusing to buy direct from them( i dont think u can), so thats why im asking where is everyone gettin it iv read so many good things about it, but i just dont have anyone that sells it. im lookin at welleauto rt now, thanks
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@@ClassicCarRestorationClub paid membrship account? dont u get money from youtube??? im not payin for a membership for one question! are u serious what a rip off, this is the problem with america! you have a youtube so u can re direct people to buy a membership? are u serious! greed is eating u from the inside out and u probably train ur children into this sickening way of selfish living thats tearing america apart at the seams
@@beechcoma i waited a Day between coats. But what about people that want a chemical bond? Then everyone on utube waitin only 15 minutes between coats??
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@@ClassicCarRestorationClub lol, I'm just here watching RU-vid videos man. P.S. I'm a digital marketer by profession. That is definitely the wrong way to go about increasing paid members.
Hey! so is it okay to get a small amount of the etch over another product like a rust destroyer/sealer? im doing a job that had some surface rust and has some spots im going to use that rust killer on and then use etch over the rest of the metal. Then continue with primer ect.
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Hello Helen, Thank you for contacting us. Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge in classic cars. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content. If you are interested in becoming a member to the Classic Car Restoration Club, please click on the special offer below: www.classiccarrestorationclub.com/?add-to-cart-multi=1&products=618&skipcart=1&coupon=C24047&CCRC&Email&.59&C24047&vscid=C24047 If you have any further questions, please chat, email, or contact Customer Service at 1-855-706-3534.
Super helpful, thanks! Didn't know to use a different primer after the etching primer. Makes sense though Mineral spirits work ok for degreasing? Or acetone? Also, do I need to remove the anodized layer on aluminum or can I paint on the anodized surface?
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I do not understand why anyone would use self etch primer? If you are doing bodywork, you can not put filler over it. Seems like a waste of time if you have to strip it all off to do bodywork.
