I was with you most of the way..but I got good results grinding an oversized cutter to the precise angle and shape of the actual bullet nose. This means 1 cut, one perfectly balanced mold. Great video! It got me started and forced me to practice correct engineering strategy and planning.
MrRaynemaker , To make the grooves here is what is happening . First you bore the hole a little under size . Then you push the cutter into the hole . Now that you have the hole the right depth you use the cross feed and move the cutter sideways to cut the lube grooves . Then you have to center the cutter before you take it from the bore . That is how the grooves are cut .
how do you know how far to move the cross feed? It seems like this is very important, cause even if it is dragged a few thou too much, the bullet produced will be too big.
@@SONOFAZOMBIE2025 better to have the bullet oversized, than under. You swage them through a sizing die to uniform them more (gas always gets caught in the cooling metal, that causes balancing issues, swaging the bullets collapses the pockets and makes them better balanced). Sort by appearance (messed up bullets don't shoot well), Sort by weight (equal mass), and then swage them to uniform them. In any case, you would have to decide that when you design your bullet. Mold making is no different than machining any precision part, you have to have schematics and follow them meticulously, to get a good result.
That's a very clever way to solve the problem of cutting 2 sides the same. I have made very good cutter from low carbon steel that won't take a temper by case hardening with Cherry Red/Kasinte cutting 100 or more parts in Aluminum. For this cutter a file is as fast as a mill if you have a roller jig to file it flat on the lathe. With the filing jig there is only the one set up in the lathe. Very nice work, Gordon
The cutter is made from drill rod and the bullet mold itself is made from Aluminium. But you could also use brass and HSS for the cutter. Drill rod or HSS is aviable on Ebay.
Hi, the mold was made for a rifle with 11.62mm in diameter but this method should work with any caliber. You can also cut the bullet form in half by using a simple hacksaw and file it smooth afterwards. You may need to resharpen the cutter after a few cuts to get a better finish, which can also be done with a file.
Very professionally made. Much better than other youtube homemade bullet mold. I gotta save up some money to buy a mill and a lathe to get it done as nice as you have for my .25 air gun pellets.
I'm a machinist and a shooter - I examined closely if you notice he moves the tool towards the middle when he withdraws it. Also the tool is 20% smaller than the actual bullet diameter. The procedure is correct as the machinist performs it.
Das würde definitiv funktionieren, man benötigt dann nur noch den passenden "Fräser" (cherry cutter) in den genauen Abmaßen des Geschosses und ohne Drehbank ist das schwierig. Ich werde aber in den nächsten Wochen noch ein Video zu diesem Prozess erstellen (allerdings .45 ACP).
Have you tried putting a milling cutter in the lathe chuck and setting up your work piece in the tool holder? You can do a surprising amount of milling work in a lathe if you can get your head around the set up with perhaps a jig to hep you hold things squarely :-)
After you cut the round mold material in half and Mill it flat it's not perfectly round anymore. Did you have a hard time centering it in the chuck like that?
I dont understand how the grease grooves could be cut by feeding the cutting point in... In my mind if you feed it the portion of the non grease groove will cut through it eliminating those grooves... i dont understand how you did it...
undersized the diameter of the cutter the depth of the groove you want to make! Make the holle!! !!move the cutter horizontally to get the finale diameter you wand for your holle
How did you manage to cut the ridges in the mold considering the diameter of the bullet head is wider so would cut a long hole the same width? I can't get my head around it.
I may have missed something, does the mould need to be slightly larger than the intended calibre to allow for shrinkage for precise fit in the bore and if so by how much ? Thank you.😎
Are you using cold rolled stock? In the video you mention drill stock but wouldn't drill stock be too hard for most cutting tools? That brings me to my second question, Can I use cold rolled to make my bullet mould with out heat treating my cutter? Is cold rolled steel tough enough to cut aluminum with out heat treating?
Yes you are right but with this setup in the lathe i would have been a huge mess. Not just the cutter and mold but also the person in front of the lathe would have been covered with cutting fluid. In addition to that it was only aluminium. See my new video with a "cherry cutter" which works a lot better!
I couldn't understand why you make the cutter diameter 20% undersize but the grease grooves the right length. Then I read Mr Boado's reply and all is clear. To what diameter do you drill the central hole?
awesome video, but a bit hard to understand the instructions across the screen. At times what was being read didn't make a lot of sense. not sure if it needed commas or extra words. but anyway cool video
great video. quick question. is there anyway to make a spire point bullet on a lathe? when you move the cross slide out to cut the final diameter, the bullet nose will also move (obviously) thereby giving you a flat nose.
Maybe not have the cutter in the full depth when doing the grease grooves. make a separate cutter for the point and drill to depth before or after the other cutter.
I'm thinking: - bore for depth. - cut out on a diagonal back using the compound slide. Though this would cut the aft face of the grease groves also at the same angle.
OK what the hell did I miss here when you run the cutter in to the Al there is no way it will cut the grease groves it will cut right through just like a drill bit,,you either left something out or Im dumber than a box of rocks
just came across this vid... as a retired machinist with more than 45 yrs experience - - WTF ! ! the sound alone is enough to tell that someone should take away your machines before you hurt yourself. and BRASS as a cutter? try your hand at woodworking before you lose an eye
Ok, I'm calling B.S. on this one. If you move that so called cutter in and out a hole, the lube grooves would cut the sides smooth, thus leaving a grooveless hole. Try again.
HSC is ok, if the drill rod is not hardened. If the bullet mold is made out of soft Aluminium then it is not necessesary to use drill rod, i have even used some low grade steel for the cutter and it worked ok.
Ja, gibt es, dafür benötigt man aber einen zentrisch spannenden Schraubstock und die Ständerbohrmaschine sollte sehr stabil sein. Der Prozess wird "cherry cutting bullet mold" genannt. Dieser ist aber eher führ kurze Geschosse geeignet.
Hey man excellent work with your tooling and mould! Just wondering if the milling cutter has to be carbide or can you get away with using a High Speed Steel milling cutter for cutting the drill rod? :-)
Nice work..Can you make for me a bullet cutter for 9 mm,to give me around 138 grain in 357 diameter bullet,round nose type...i want to re-cut my Lee mold...!Is it possible to order that from you and pay with paypal.!
Well done! I think i would also have cut a relief on the back of the cutter to prevent drag and better chip clearing, but you can't argue with results.
If you had a bullet with groves on it instead of a smooth bullet wouldn't it have the ice air hockey effect where it glides, in this case through the air?
+Xtreme 1000 Well for example if you can only get 9mm mold in projectile weight X,Y and Z and you want weight B you have to make it don't you, so when coupled with JCGver's reply we can state there are at least 2 reasons.
For making quality bullets, you want a Lyman mold. You also want a good alloy mixture of lead, tin and antimony. That's only if you want to hit what you're aiming at.
If the bit is run through in the aluminium block , on turning how the grooves will be formed you are tend to get only clean drilled tapered hole without grooves