CAST LIKE A BOSS! "be the best" 

I tried to tell once you use it , you'll be sold on it . I use the standard anti sieze , I've never tried the one with copper in it . Me and old Charles Irby have been using it forever , Take the sprue cutter off and install it under the pivot point . Even the pivot bolt that hold the handles together . It lasts and lasts . I worked in a casting foundry and that's all we used . It should be good for months of use .

I've always used candle wax. To flux snd to lube my molds. Looks like it's about time for me to join the 21st century ! Thanks for passing on the tip Elvis.

That intro gets me every time boss😂👍🏻

It's good to have you back on youtube. I missed your experiments and advice. You and fortune cookie got me into reloading in the first place. Keep em coming!

Great addition to the molding process!

Good tip. James Pollard turned a lot of us on to the anti seize over on TRN👍🏻

Thank you for all you do

And yet another good tip/vid....thanks Elvis.

Definitely trying this. Elvis -- you are the supreme oracle of all casting knowledge thanks to your work and the experience of your subscribers. I bow in homage.

Woohoo, a daily dose of Elvis Ammo continues. Hey brother, try using a single burner hot plate to preheat your mold. Good bullets on the second pour every time. Good video, thanks for sharing.

Thanks for a great informative video

Heck ya! Looks good!

Awesome tips!

Great tips..

Nice! I use it just on my pins but now I will try it like the 2 cycle oil. I've learned a little something from every video you've done so far this past week. Thank you elvis.

I like it!

Just finished up 250 RCBS 38 150 SWC everything went extremely smoothly thank Elvis I don’t know what I would do without your videos

Man I have learned so much from your videos thanks elvis

Elvis! Just sitting here doing some PC and we taped off the air holes for the MAPP gas torch and turned the gas way down ,got a good smoky flame and smoked a mold! This works great!

Awesome 😎, 👍, 💯, thank you for your video.

Great idea thanks Elvis. Another BOSS video my man!

Good video thanks Elvis

That is a good idea I will have to give a try

Always good information sir thank you for sharing and God Bless

Lee recommends anti-sieze as an option in the instructions that come with the molds. I like it for guide pins but not the sprue plate so much. I'm sold on that bull plate lube. I knew a guy that lost a wheel on the highway using never-sieze on his lugnut studs lol. I'm so glad you're back man and not behind a paywall

Already using that for my breach plug. This is good info. Thanks.

I use the Aluminum anti-seize grease on my Aluminum molds bottom edges and my N.O.E. Mold Guide. Also the Mold Guide on my old Lyman pot.

Great information. Thanks for sharing what you learn, man.

Yup-I have the same stuff but use it mostly on the pins and bolts. I'll use it more liberally now

Good tip. Even an old dog can learn something new! 😊

I use spray graphite. Spray down the mold blocks, top and bottom of the spruce cutter. Not oily, and dries almost on contact...

Great info. I have both copper and nickel based anti-seize. I’m going to try both on my aluminum Lee molds to see if there’s any difference. Like a BOSS!! Great videos Elvis! Thanks!!👍🏻

I remember reading to use anti-sieze on the pins and sprue cutter in the directions with the mould..... Have used it since starting though.

Elvis, I have a shot-maker, one of the things you need to keep the shot rolling off the deflector plate is a coating of copper anti-seize applied to it, Lead won't stick to copper anti-seize compound. the compound itself is expensive, however, it has many other uses around the shop. Never thought about wiping down my molds with it, thanks for the new tip dude. -Dave

Pre heat the mold on a hot plate on very low heat prior to using. Always run two molds in a session. You will not get any lead build up under the Spure or torn bases. Once again use a soft carpenters pencil to lubricate the Spure cutter. Its loaded with graphite or soft lumber crayon is loaded with graphite

I will haft to give the anti seize a try,I usually use a little automatic trans fluid,It always work ok for me,but I’m always open to different and hopefully better ways.Once again I appreciate your videos,thanks for the info.

When I smoke the molds I smoke the sprue plate top and bottom and the pivot too. Seems to work fine.

Elvis, your awesome dude!!! I'm new to casting but have found if I turn the mold over when dropping the bullets, they fallout much easier. I suspect it's because the bullet base is heavier than a round out flat tip. Just saying.....

I use Permatex anti sieze for a lot of things, it works great on my muzzleoader to keep everything from seizing together due to gunpowder heat build up.I never gave this a thought, Im going to do this for sure, thank you for the idea!!

I have a graphite based anti seize. I’ll give it a try. Theoretically if it burns of it should leave behind the graphite

Thanks for the info Elvis. I use a different brand (NEVER SEEZ) and never rubbed it on all the surfaces like you are doing. That is a better method than what I was doing. I just did the Q tip thing. Only a little on the pivot points. My stuff consists of mostly molybdenum sulfide. It is magic that holds up to heat. But as everyone says....BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DON'T GET IT ON A WHITE COUCH. IT JUST DON'T COME OFF.

Thanks for the tip! I always enjoy your vlogs, especially the power coating information now I'm wondering what to do with my star luber sizer?

just bought 3rd Lee 6 cavity mold - reluctantly. The first one is Kaput. Second one the pivot bolt has lost its grip and the guide pins have galled the aluminum a little bit. I'm going to drill out and do some alternative and more substantial pivot bolt bushing combination. I may even take out the male and female end of the guide pins and do something like the Lyman iron molds. Weather for cavity mold they have three pins 1 high and 1 low on the near end and one at the far end. Those pins look like half of a ball bearing is sticking out from the face. And it gets received by half round recess. Since the molds are iron there's no harder metal going the softer metal but the shape looks great. In the meantime cuz I need to generate some ammo I ordered another Lee mold since I couldn't find a similar design something like the Lyman. I'm going to try the never-seez approach and see if I can get this thing lubricated sufficiently to survive longer this time. BTW; I got a whole bunch of different scraps of powder coating from an outfit that did powder coating. He said they had about 70 pounds worth of stuff that they baked up into a pile so that it wouldn't scare the trash men with a bunch of colorful powders fluffing around in the air. They were happy to give me a bunch of stuff that had been used on various projects. Took for what it's worth of free source of powder might be available somewhere near you guys.

Stihl did a copy of Amsoil 2 stroke oil at the plant in Va. Beach, Va. They got a sample from Jerry Revell to do spectrometer analysis on it. Its still just a cheap copy of Amsoil’s formula. They did it cause of blowers burning up but not ones where folks were using Amsoil 2 stroke oil/ gas mix.

Nice tip. Once again the master teaches the students!!👍✌️🇺🇸

I’ve got a Lyman 450 for sale for $100 plus shipping, has 45-70 die and punch installed. No grease, has been cleaned

I picked it up from James pollard and Charlie Irby. Works like a charm

By the way you rock Elvis

Waking up to a fresh video jammed with outstanding info. Thanks brother!

If you are going to try this, use TINY amounts- TINY!!! Don't slather this stuff allover a mould ever, you'll just create problems. And anyone smoking a mould to get it to release, you probably need to run the mould hotter, not the alloy, but the mould. There can also mechanical issues like tiny burrs on the cavity edges. Look up "Leementing" on some of the casting sites, the process applies to more than just Lee moulds.

I actually have aluminum anti-seize I bought for the barrel threads, it's pretty messy there but now I can try it on the mold! You can get a piece of PVC pipe and put a wooden stick in it, better than screwdriver to bang with. Are you left handed? I use my right hand to knock on the bolt handle.

I laugh at the beginning of every video!...LOL

I can't tell you how great it is to see you still making videos and NOT letting the libtards of youtube defeat you. Keep up the good work EA...Jim.

Elvis give us an update soon. Many are asking where you have been

When I was first learning the powder coat methods from you, I got in a hurry to find the pre-heat times. So, I changed the playback speed. And I found out I could ply your videos back at 2X, and you are still perfectly understandable. So, I got to listen to this entire 12:16 video in 6:08.

Late to the party but they are probably referring to "galvanic corrosion" from dissimilar metals. Not sure of the exact wording there but just like the zincs on your boat to reduce corrosion, they corrode instead.

I wonder if this is the same or similar to what we call over here in the U.K. copper ease , made to put on brake pad backing plates to stop brake squeal etc ? I try it tomorrow when I’m casting my 38 and 44 lead bullets! 👍🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

I have permatex anti sieze in my toolbox so just put it on a rag and wipe it on? Its kinda pasty. We put it on brake sliders to keep them from seizing among other stuff. Never thought about it on a mold but makes sense cuz it does withstand extremely high heat. Thanks for the tip

most HI Temp anti-sieze is WAY hotter than you need. 1800 degrees is like red-hot steel. lead is liquid at less than 700 degrees, isn't it? and the anti-sieze ketchup packets at the counters of most auto parts stores is more than enough for a couple of years. (and I really enjoyed the video. Glad Thorseaxe777 sent me this way!)

If you put the speed at 1.5x, it sounds like he's talking at a normal pace. I'm just messing with you! I love your channel!

Anti seize is in lee mold info

Put it on your screw threads and under the spring washers and flat washers, anywhere there is movement like on the recesses where the handles pivot and that post the sprue plate comes under...that's where you will really benefit from it's long lasting lubrication qualities. A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAYS!

Have you, or anyone personally tried casting with it on an "Ideal" or "Lyman" Iron mold?

The only issue with anti seize is how messy it can be. Jute a trace on your fingers, and before you realize it, it’s everywhere.

There is a heat , temperature rating on each type of anti sieze. The nickel type has a higher temperature rating. . I wouldn't recommend the aluminium type , since the aluminium can react to basic steel.

I'll have to try anti-seize. Molds cooling too much during filming happens EVERY time.

A month later - any update on corrosive impacts on the mold ?

I use spay Graphite Lubricant 3 costs

Where can I get what I believe you called a "guide plate"?

We use copper grease and haven't seen that liquid in the UK but I will now be looking out for it. Thanks for the tip, Have you tried candle wax ?

Elvis, just starting out casting and wanna start with a hunting round for a 30.30 and .223. What would be your suggestion for a mold for each? Love the channel!

I wonder if a graphite based lube would last longer, considering copper usually doesn't handle heat as well as graphite.

I just started molding for my .58 cal muzzleloader. But my bullets have pits in the base of the bullet pocket. Would that cause issues shooting?

Hey there was looking for your video on maintaining lee moulds from a few years back you were using 2 stroke oil to lube your moulds. Was the oil you use fully synthetic or semi synthetic or it doesn't make a difference.

Elvis where are you?

Anti seize brake lube... well I should get some and add some to my brakes on my ford..

😂😂😂😂as I dive deeper into the rabbit hole....mmmmm I am finding how deep the B/S around the hobby it really is 😅😅😅

I want an old carbide lamp for smoking molds.

Thank you and fortunecookie45lc for getting me into casting and powder coating. I'm glad to have ammo now

I tried TC breach plug anti seaze on a new 45 lee mold just yesterday I think it worked ok. It's all I had so I decided what the heck. If anyone sees an issue with that please let me know. I'm new to bullet casting and powder coating both.

Its right in the original instructions that came with the modes but not to your extent

I would try Nickel-Graf after searching the interwebs

Any other colors besides light Ford blue From Eastwood that you like

Ok I’m new into casting and I was casting 44mag 225 gr . I’m using f Very pure lead from a factory test ingots. They are 3% antimony. I did flux So some of my bullets cracked at the base and some hade air holes in the base I then switched to 38 same lead and all were fine. Any suggestions thanks

Damn it! I watch this video, now I have anti seize all over me!

Great info! Some of my steel mold are a pain to use. I will have to try this. 🇺🇸 Got a question - A few of my steel molds get lead build up in between the sprue plate and the mold. Drives me nuts! I have to shave lead off the bottom of the sprue plate. If I tighten the sprue, it operates too tight. I operate all my molds the same, it's just a couple of them that do this. Do a video to help me! Thanks brother.

Read Instructions - Lee Instruction Sheet see # 4 "Lubricate your mold using beeswax or 👍Permatex®👍 anti-seize lubicant or equivalent. " ALSO - "do not use Lee Liquid Alox" & "do not use paraffin wax" Love your new detail videos, helps me a lot...🍺🥨🍺

I use the aluminum version of that stuff, and I use way more than Elvis does. 😂 I have aluminum molds so why mix metals and risk corrosion?

Elvis, great video but this technology is old, from 2008. Castboolits first talked about never seize then. The purpose was so you could cast fast not needing the sprue to harden completely thus getting the lead smear across the top of the mold and/or the bottom of the sprue plate. I first tried it on a single cav BP mold and it was great but only lasted a half hour and kinda gummed up. I would use a razor scraper to scrape off when the smear would start. then re-apply. Syn 2cycle oil is better but there's much better stuff out there. BullplateLube was better than the 2cycle oil but the family that made it wouldn't give out the formula and anyone that asked what it was was ripped apart on forums as trying to hurt the family and take food out of their mouths. They got weird and went off the grid, even banned from the big forum. They never gave their formula. It was good stuff and looked like the blue/green syn 2 cycle oil but lasted much longer. Doesn't matter something even better than that and no drama getting it is car AC Compressor Oil from one vendor. If you or anyone cares I can get the part number. The bottle I have will last the rest of my life. I also apply it differently by using a q-tip barely dipped in the cap of the bottle then draw circles around the cavities and same on the sprue plate. You could paint the rest with the q-tip but not the cavities. You use so little, there's nothing to wipe off. I can operate the sprue as fast as I want after the sprue turns gray. I've been casting since the 60's so I know a bit about casting. Sorry for the long epic. Thought you may be interested. I may try applying it sometime the way you do it to see if it's easier but I see it uses much more.

Hi Elvis, I don't understand English very well, however if I understand correctly, is this product used to lubricate the molds?

Same lube as is on New Glock slides....

It’s a powder you get out because anti seize is chock full of aluminum powder

Lug nuts should not be lubricated.

En intérieur, sans ventilation, sans masque! Ce qu'il ne faut pas faire.

Good idea Evil Ammo I’m going to give this a try butt I’m a lucky man Uncle Jim made me a aluminum plate that I called the Utah plate no scratching the bottom of your moles up thank you Uncle Jim

the way you are wiggling around, leads me to belive you are high AF but the video is sooo legit... so we good.

What do you do when the pot starts dripping?

Doesn't copper corrode aluminum? You can't use copper antifouling paint on aluminum boats for that reason. As long as the grease prevents oxygen from mixing with the copper and aluminum it should be ok. Just asking what the long term results might be. Say in long term storage.

1 thing, DO NOT USE ANTI SIEZE ON LUG NUTS !!

This dude needs better lead ventilation.