Sense of Place: O Rosal, Rías Baixas 

A Gondomar morning with Jorge Marcote: Alberto Cábaco Mariño grew up in Gondomar, where his grandfather owned a wine warehouse. After making his fortune in Galicia's fishing industry, Alberto moved back there and in 2017 embarked on an ambitious journey to establish a wine estate there. In 2018, he enlisted the help of Baiona-born ex-sommelier Jorge Marcote to help him build the dream, called Bodegas Pentecostés.
I travelled to Galicia in June 2024 and spent a morning with Jorge. We visited Pazo Barreiro and Pazo de Moldes, old country estates that trace their roots back to the 17th and 18th century respectively. What they weren't, or not until Alberto and Jorge showed up, were vineyards primed to set a new benchmark for Rías Baixas wines.