You are a great instructor. I have no prior knowledge of how to troubleshoot a furnace, now I can see the line of thinking. You have helped me more than you will ever know. Thank you for sharing with us.
Wes, thank you so much for this video. After my furnace was malfunctioning I watch several video and none pointed to a problem that you did, which was to check the air tube at the pre blower motor for cracks. As it turns out, that's exactly what was wrong with my heater. You are THE MAN!!!
excellent review! thanks for your tips. here is one for all. this was an older amana furnace. no ignition, draft inducer comes on no ignition glow coil. being a newbee finally found that the inducer motor lost the impeller on the other side of the motors shaft. motor comes complete kit for replacement. keep up the videos.
not everything is gravy new. in the field is your best instruction. I'm thankful of these videos . The computer has given me great knowledge if you know where to look and talk with others . Never the same problem. Switching out parts is not troubleshooting its guessing . You gotta be quick and right. In conversation with the customer.
this is the best video i have ever seen about hvac. i wish this guy was my teacher. man he is really good clear. i like the way how he go step by step in explaining the sequence of operation.
I have been watching a lot of RU-vid videos in trying to diagnose what is going on with my furnace. Yours is by far the best! Your totally open furnace trainer is excellent for seeing what is going on. Thank you!!
I had no idea that this video still was around. Please understand I did this for my Masters degree for a college professor and didn't realize people where using it. I guess due to my position I will post more how to videos to teach. If anyone has any suggestion on what they might want to see let me know and I will do the best I can to answer or post.
Thanks Wes I was going crazy trying to figure out why the older furnace I was bench testing before installing kept short cycling (Short Flame). I replaced the flame sensor as it looked somewhat corroded but to know avail. All other cycles sequenced properly. At the end of this video you mentioned reverse polarity, that is when I realized that I did not check the polarity on the 110 plug end I had installed. I reversed the wiring on the plug and BINGO working furnace. Thanks a bunch! This was a very helpful video!!
Its ok, your doing better teaching LIVE than those other 46 people who NEVER make mistakes! What I really like about this career field is the different jobs we get to do! What I HATE is all the arrogant assholes who think they are better than everybody else and look down on those of us learning it, because they have been doing this since Moses parted the red sea and probably helped build the &^%$ pyramids! Keep up the great work coach!
Great video Wes. In regards to Long Denis.. i would give Trane a call but in lieu of that if you knew the sequence of operation the glow plug or hot surface ignitor should stay on long enough to light the burners and flame rectification verified before going out. If it is not happening or happening intermittently then i suggest you isolate it and ohm it out then compare what you are getting to the manufacturers specification. It the ohming is correct then continue back to the IFC board and verify what signal you should be getting from the board ie time or current or both. Hope this helps. Others feel free to add input
Great Video! exellent! Can't see clear the control board therminals and wires you interchange in the low voltage circuit. Hey Master could explain Thank You! have a good day! Where is Your school located
I have a Haier gas furnace that is giving a 2-blink code. The furnace has four blink codes according to the inside of the furnace cover. The codes are:: 1: Burner Limit Circuit Open; 2: Primary Limit Switch Circuit Open; 3: Pressure Switch Open; 4: No Circulation Airflow Lockout. My problem is that I am getting a 2-blink code, which is Primary Limit Switch. I replaced the Primary Limit Switch with an exact replacement part but that did not fix the problem. I have not yet checked the sequence of operation as shown in this video but I will in the morning. In the meantime i would appreciate any suggestions. Thank you.
Wes, At the end of your video you showed a similar sequence as the flame sensor switch. Meaning the gas ignited but went out 5 to 10 seconds later. I have replace and cleaned my flame sensor but the flame goes out (gas turns off) after several seconds. Assuming the flame sensor is working what could be the issue?
No ignition could be no gas supply or failure of the igniter. I believe the sequence would be igniter reaches temperature, and subsequently gas valve opens. If you don't see a glowing igniter, the gas valve will not open. I believe the igniter itself could be tested with an ohm meter. It's going to be like a light bulb. It either is open (burnt out) or a closed circuit. If an ohm meter shows continuity it should be OK. I believe the igniter must be dominated by the pressure switches which need to be closed at the proper operating pressure range.
HELP! I need advice on a furnace problem. I have a 10 year old Amana nat gas furnace in a house. The last 3 years every autumn it is reluctant to flame but then works fine for the rest of the winter, but this year it is really bad. It tries to start; the starter glows, and I swear I can hear and feel the gas valve solenoid open but no flame, usually, maybe one out of 10 times it starts, but then only runs for about 4 minutes then stops. I replaced the gas valve and the circuit board but still the same. I cleaned the flame sensor, no help. Is it possible that the gas valve is sticking closed? (GEMINI 36G54 type 238) I am out of options and about to call the service man. thanks, john in Michigan.
Hi Wes , very good video. I keep burning transformers , only primary side when the shorts were found at the condenser low voltage contactor coil. Can you please explain this. Thanks.
My Heater/AC is a package unit - it calls for heat from the thermostat the blower fan comes on after that it blows for about a minute I hear a few “pops” maybe sparks then shuts off in lockout mode. Based on the sequence of operation I believe it’s the pressure switch. However, I do hear 2 separate clicks during this process. Which I kind of think it’s the pressure switch. I do not hear the ignition switch spark. Basically, the burners don’t go on as I’ve explained. From this video I can conclude it’s the pressure switch (I do hear 2 separate clicks though). What do I check from this point on?
I have a furnace that does not turn on. Does not blow hot air and does not have inducer motor turn on. What can be the issue? The control board does not have any lights on either...
thanks for taking time to make an educational video , it was very helpful , but the guy doing the camera needs to get close enough and stay there so we can hear , or give the instructor a microphone
hey wes. mine is a rheem silhouette II. the sequence of events is as follows: 1. call for heat. 2. induction draft motor. 3. pressure switch clicks. 4. electric igniter ignites. 5. no burners light. indoor blower motor starts. 6. system shuts down and repeats itself 2 more times. then I get the blink code of one.so this system fails after the igniter with no gas or burners. what would you suggest my steps would be, and what is the more likely culprits causing this?thanks for your time.respectfully, Richard Carson
This is a helpful video, but you need to be more specific on the exact function of the various control switches. Are they normally open or closed and exactly what causes them to change state? It would also be helpful if you would use both the English word and and the commonly used term by people in the field. For example IFC: What is it? I would call it the mother board, but I believe IFC indicates something like Integrated Furnace Control. The problem I have with my Goodman furnace is the documentation is not well done. For example in the documentation there is no indication in which position a Dip Switch is on or off. I think for the average homeowner "twining" is the least of their worries. Most residences probably only have a single furnace. Finally I'm not a fan of "blink codes." Home alarm systems have had English language displays for quite some time. So does my CPAP machine. (Continuous Positive Airway Pressure). used as remedy for Sleep Apnea. It seems that there should at a minimum be a plug for an accessory tablet style display that would point directly to the problem, and perhaps even including a help guide. This display could also include information such as Run Times in Various Stages. Dip settings. BTU consumption. Duct Air Temperatures. Filter Change Status, and cumulative electrical consumption. Perhaps a Carbon monoxide sensor and and natural gas leak detector could be added and so on. The so called modern high efficiency furnace is still in many ways operating in the dark ages. A blink code is the ultimate "idiot light."
Not really because if the Control Board is not faulty it gives you an idea where to search for your problem.Many Code Blinks give more than 1 possible problem but between blink codes and actually knowing the Sequence of operation it Helps techs to know where to start looking I am 63 been doing this since 17 and still learning and seeing New Problems and things happening in this Industry.
hey Wes, thanks for the video. I've been researching heat exchanger problems for a while now but havent found my issue. My sequence is correct but the flame cuts out abt 3-5 min after ignition and flash code of 33. once the inducer blower finishes clearing out the heat, the error code goes away. What could cause a limit switch to trip 3-5 min into the cycle? flame sensor is good and doesnt appear to be a rollout issue...any advice for this greenhorn?? :-)
Exactly what polarity are you reversing? The hot and neutral from the load distribution center to the furnace or something else? (white and black power supply wires reversed?) Also what is your position on safety grounding? Should the safety ground (earth ground) return only to the load center, or is it acceptable to safety ground to an indoor copper cold water pipe?
The Hot and Neutral main power or 120 Volts is Reversed Polarity also the Ground should go back to the Ground of your panel but grounding to Cold Water pipe was common in the day but Electronics act differently with Neutral and Grounding Properly on the System
Some times furnace runs good then once while it does not . calls for heat motor runs no igniter glow plug does not light up . does that mean I need pressure switch .
Good information, just wish the camera was held steadier say on tripod with camera zoom used and steady level audio coming from the teacher/speaker by use of a clip-on lapel mic.
My basement so warm. I went over to furnace as it was running and a lot of warm heat is blowing out from back of furnace. a as if it was a vent. Is this normal? for years my basement was cool. I have a gas Furnace.
Great video. Thank you. for my Trane xe 90, everything seem to work up to the point where the glow plug comes on. It stays on for about 3 to 4 sec and start to die off thats when you hear a click for gas, i guess, to come on and light the burners. I'm not sure if the glow plug is not staying on long enough or if the gas is not coming on early enough. it's a hit or miss. sometimes it lights it sometimes it doesnt.ANY IDEAS PLEASE. (new gas valve, new control board, new blower motor, new capacitor. glow igniter looks good and get pretty brite.
+Long Denis sorry for the really long delay. I never thought I wanted to answer what I started. This was a school project only. However I'm seeing alot of interested and its time for me to help out. So if you get this response.....have you checked your flame sensor?
Flame sensor and manual reset button! Thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you Thank you thank you thank you thank you thank youThank you thank you thank you thank you thank you Thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you!
watch your your video. Have one question? when I set my thermostat say to 73. My furnace doesn't shut off. Do I need to replace thermostat or is that the fan timer
+Michael Jenkins What kind of furnace are we talking about? Your thermostat is easy to troubleshoot however I would have grab a stand alone thermometer put it next to the t-stat to verify its accuracy. I would need to know what happened after you tried this.
my furnace sequence as follows - thermostat calls for heat- igniter glows- gas ignites and there is visible flame- after so many seconds fan starts ( same fan that turns when a/c mode is on ) however the air coming through vents is not warm. is there another fan? its like the heat is trapped in the furnace and not being drawn through the ductwork. i dont have the unit opened up so i am describing what is visible to me through the glass window . the capacitor that was mounted on the outside of fan looked defected so i replaced it but heat from flame is not coming through vents- it blows cold. please tell me what i should do next
Had a furnace not turn back on after resetting main breaker. Checked for power going to board, 120 volt, good. Bypass the thermostat, so it continually runs and board will not light up, the red light, troubleshooting codes. Figured the board went bad , I am on my second new board same problem. I have tested the transformer to see if it was still working and it seems to be operating normally but I was wondering if it could stop transferring the 24 volt charge and give 120 volt? Does anyone know what I should be checking next? Would the transformer be bad? I still have no light on the motherboard. Any advice would be helpful, except for the one where I can get a HVAC professional, because if nobody gives me any advice I already understand that would be my default option, so past that unwires thanks!
You need to do something about the sound level of your video. When you move in for a closeup the sound is clear, but when you move out (or pull back) the sound is very hard to hear.
Hi Wes- great video! I have a GUA Series Gas Furnace (model GUA080A012AIN) that gets through the ignition sequence all the way up to flame. The Fan/Limit switch (Honeywell) eventually cuts off flame so the fan/blower never kicks on to heat the house. This happens often but not every attempt so it's been pretty confusing- would you be able to steer me in the right direction?
why didn't you tell us what caused the last scenario ? i was waiting to hear what caused a flame out that wasn't the flame sensor.. plus the most import parts , of what you were doing with the wires when it tripped wasn't captured by the camera guy, for SOME reason he stood back away from it. i didnt learn anything on this
Thank you, I said the exact same thing. I came to the comments to see if anyone had more info about the last part. He just blew right past it as if everyone already knew what he was doing 🤯
because my inducer fan motor does not kick on and I know that's the first step of the sequence. is there a relay that kicks it on and how can I check for that
+angel c there is a plug you can pull apart to verify if you have voltage (120v). If you do you need to see if its a shaded pole motor or a PSC. If it has a capacitor then you need to check the micro farads.
It's pretty simple to be honest call for hear inducer motor comes on limited switch close from pressure sends signal to let gas flow the Ignitor heats up we get flames flame detector tells control board that we have flame control board kicks on blower motor and that's it
I need help, furnace works fine thru first cycle. After burners and blower shuts down I have something that is not shutting the gas off. After manually turning off the gas and waiting a while, I can turn the unit back on and will go thru that first cycle again with no problem. Help!!!!
