Absolutely agree with you on the natural material regulations, I'd rather have a big danger sign with a skull on fire to warn you about the critical toxicity of a touch of real oak moss and have a beautiful perfume than having a weak watered down synthetic crowd pleaser #16754. There's no need to use dangerous materials or potentially dangerous in high amounts but banning something because one peron in a million would get itchy seems foolish.
It doesn't come down to 1 person in a million being itchy. 4% of the population is already sensitive to fragrance and some of the raw materials that are being banned lead to sensitization over time meaning more and more people would develop allergies from them (potentially even yourself). So why not just be responsible from the start and not have to worry about such things in the future? I'd rather have safer products that I can spray all day long rather than potentially dangerous ones that may ruin my experience over time.
@@stefanromanescu724 They wouldn't know beforehand. Its called allergen sensitization. You could wear a perfume 1000 times and develop an allergy on the 1001 wear. If it contains certain now banned allergens that is more likely to occur, which is why ifra bans are actually more reasonable than most perfumers will have you think.
@@mrgrimmer7997 we are adults, when we get an alergy whe should stop using it, you can't destroy art for few people, it's the same with food, the allergens are written on on the package and haven't seen a producer changing his succes formula and ruining his business for 2% of the customers
@@mrgrimmer7997 again perfumers shouldnt have to ruin their works of art for weirdos that cant do elimination test regarding allergens themselves and stop buying what irritates them. Like he said yall really enjoy being in a nanny state instead of making your own decisions. It's pathetic and sad
One word. Bravo! Your opinion about reformulations is spot on. Some fragrances are true works of arts and should remain untouched. In my opinion just raise the dam price and keep it as antique status but keep it on the market.
Agree completely on the IFRA banning ingredients based on SOME people having a reaction to the ingredient. Some people can experience anaphylaxis from peanuts, yet products containing peanuts are still widely available. They just include a warning, as in the same way that you suggested... Anyway, great video as always Aaron! Keep up the good work!
Yes, I wonder there ought to be medical records of people actually getting into hospitals from allergic reactions to peanuts and other foods. How many such medical records apply to people getting allergic reactions to perfumes?
The studies seem pretty rigged as well. The parfum guy has a video about oakmoss futering Dana and she explains why it actauly is BS with the whole allergic reactions. I agree with her that it is just so they can sell lab made stuff
This scent is my go to, I love the softer projection. It means ppl have to search it out on you, rather than it shouting at them. I'm completely with you on the IFRA points. It's fine to put all sorts of crap into our food, but something gives 2 ppl an itch, "BAN IT!". Great unicorn channel Aaron 🦄❤️
Serge was my gateway into niche. I knew someone who had many serge fragrances three of which I thought were revolting. Which I won’t name here because I haven’t worn them. I just didn’t like them in the bottle since then I have accumulated 15 different bottles. this was one of my most Confusing fragrances. I love/hated it. It’s so unusual with that green tobacco leaf and frankincense combination. The dry down is wonderful my mother absolutely loved it so I gave it to her and it made me sad so I bought another bottle lol I wear it seldom but it’s definitely one of the most unique fragrances I’ve ever owned. So thank you for reviewing this I appreciate your expertise. Reviewing a fragrance like this that is so complex and polarizing i’m sure it’s challenging. The fact that you didn’t think it was strong when you first put it on was shocking to me because I found it to be very strong in the beginning, and the dry down Balanced. But the thing about surge almost to one have a longevity problem. I solve that by constant re-application! Don’t have to do that with this particular one now and I think people would be offended. If I did it’s one of the ones that is not for everybody which only makes me love it more. my ugly baby.
Beautiful review. If this bottle pleased you, original Chergui (or any Chergui with a batch code prior to 2010) will blow your mind and ruin you forever. It’s literally more of everything that you identified. It’s thicker. Especially the hay, incense, honey, and sandalwood. In my opinion, every version after 2010 is watered down and light reminders of the original version. This is also the case with every scent from this house (but with different reformulation dates of course).
What IFRA has done to the fragrance industry is shamful and depressing, so many beautiful fragrances have been ruined by their interference. I am hoarding my bottle of the old formulation of Chergui, it is gorgeous. I have tried the updated version and it is still lovely, but neutered compared to the old juice. I have been wearing this since my early 30's but I have always loved fragrances that others have considered "mature" hahaha, I think I was the only highschooler running around draped in vintage Shalimar and Bal a Versailles lol
@@professionalpookieLiterally means "amass money or valued objects and hide or store away". I fail to see how holding on to my OG formulation bottle and not using it because it is now rare or valuable to me is not hoarding... although anyone with a hint of social intelligence would realize I was using the word for emphasis and not in a literal sense... but go off if that makes you feel better
Serge Lutens is a great house. Borneo 1834 is a wonderful patchouli based fragrance to try if you can get your hands on a sample. If I hadn't used all of mine up I'd send you some! I think Vetiver Orientale was a misstep for the house (the notes clash), but overall they are wonderful.
Yes, completely agree. Cigarettes have warnings because of cancer risk, and that applies to huge %'s of people, but they still perfectly sell that deadly stuff in all of those cigarette boxes and brands, just with that warning. Why with fragrance ingredients would be any different, it's likely nowhere near as risky, or in any case orders of magnitude less people face any true risk from fragrance ingredients compared to cigarette smoking. So warning labels for fragrances would make a lot more sense. The analogy with cigarettes actually suggests the fragrance regulations are not truly medical-based, but more business-based. Another thing I agree with is the fact that Chergui at least version I smelled in a Galeria Kaufhof here in Germany, is kind of weak, not particularly strong. Even other Serge Lutens fragrances are clearly stronger, e.g. Ambre Sultan, or Santal Majuscule.
How interesting that you perceive this as a masculine gentleman's scent, for a board room! I (a woman) own the reformulated version and when I wear it, it feels very feminine, sweet. I perceive it as a sugar flower in my mind, gauzy, hay and sepia colored. It has the most beautiful wafts and I don't have any problem smelling it all day. Thank you for your review, it's so fun to see how perfumes wear on others and their perceptions as well. Have a wonderful day!
I’d love to see a whole video about the IFRA regulations and maybe some info on what people could do to have some deregulation occur so that artists are not being held back. I fully agree that I’d rather see more warnings on the box about potential issues in a formulation than get a subpar fragrance. I’d also rather pay more for quality than pay less for something watered down or lesser quality ingredients. Maybe you could even do that video with other perfumers to get the message out and try to get some change happening…
I feel like the projection comes with a slight delay on this one. It starts soft, but becomes more radiant as the hours go by, atleast on my skin. Cherqui is my favourite tobacco scent. Tobacco fragrances can often be very sweet, but this one is more dry, green and airy. I think that makes Cherqui a very versatile fragrance. It works all year round imo. :)
Just purchased my first 1.69 bottle today as a blind buy with hopes for a lovely tobacco I can get behind. Serge has been challenging and I have not kept all his offerings but when he gets it right, it's truly right. Cheers!✨
You would have loved the original! Super powerful and lasting into the next day. I bought a 100 ml bottle in 2011 and used it all up as my signature scent within a few years. I was in my late 20s and my female friends friends used to say “you stink!” (What did they know? Nothing, no taste and too young) But men loved it on me (I am a woman). Now, 10 years later, I’ve just ordered a new 50 ml bottle for the first time since the Shiseido takeover and am expecting it to be watered-down a bit. 🤞I have a pretty good niche collection with a lot of great fragrances, but nothing has ever matched the original Chergui for me. It was perfect and everything I still want now that I’m about to turn 40.
its like red wine and hay... this is what it remind me of... like in a good way, like: you're sitting in a barn, drinking some red wine, there's a heater in the corner that's providing some warmth, and the farm hand is smoking cigarets in the distance other side of the barn.. You can smell the leather of the saddles hanging on the wall, and they hay, and wood of the barn, but as you take a sip of your red wine - all the smells come together in your glass... Chergui
I really dont understand why the people who are allergic to certain perfumes just dont wear them. I know people who are allergic to peanut butter and they dont force everyone around them to eat fake peanut butter
Ifra might sound like a good idea at first glance, but you are so right. They shouldn't mess with art and we really don't need nanny regulations everywhere. It's like removing the hazelnuts from hazelnut cookies because of allergies. If i shouldn't eat those cookies, well, it is my decision to avoid that problem. I just can't demand that hazelnuts are forbidden for everyone.
Would you say it leans more masculine? I tried back to black today but I believe SL is more superior but I haven’t smelled it and I was wondering if it’s gender neutral with femme and masc nuances
It feels lousy as a consumer to know that the scent you identify with and wear with love can be changed from a company cutting costs. How much more do they make if far less people buy it? IFRA seem very heavy handed to ban ingredients that may potentially possibly might cause a reaction. Theres less oversight in food and drinks. Seems a bit backwards.
I love this fragrance. I still have a bottle that's around a decade old but it only has the tiniest amount left in it, so unfortunately I can't spare it. The juice is almost black at this point. The projection and lasting power is indeed very strong from the old formulation, I haven't tried the more recent version but if you're describing it as light and not long-lasting then it's definitely changed a lot.
I had to apply it 3 times. So it want the same. Video unicorn said it used to be monstrous. And 2 sprays filled the room. This lasted about 1 hour on my skin. Still lovely though
@@AaronTerenceHughes Unfortunate 😔 I sent you a sample of Tauer L'Air du Desert Marocain by the way, I'd love to hear your views on that. It's also a bit of a monster on projection (I have to be careful where I store the bottle!)
This is my favorite bedtime sent. Love your reviews. So pleased that you haven't smelled "everything" on the market. This makes me so curious about your creations. They must be so personal and unique void of any references from other brands . I'm going to check you out.
Chergui has been reformulated unfortunately but it's still really strong at least the bottle I have burns my nose and lasts a long time! Maybe that sample is a newer batch but I love the smell a lot. It's unfortunate they don't just leave the fragrance alone
I Maybe wrong but I think Rogue Perfumery does not conform to IFRA guidelines, especially where oakmoss is concerned and maybe a few other natural raw ingredients
Yes, I was going mention Rogue. You're right, he states that he's not IFRA compliant on his website. I have his sample pack and a full bottle of Mousse Iluminée, which is a fantastic oakmoss-heavy 80s-style powerhouse of a fragrance. They're all great!
consumer awarenes relies on consumers knowing enough about the product and the ingredients. i get your view but its fine imo if you try to see it from an average joe schmoes perspective. great video as always
I own the original and it lasts and powerful. I can’t spray more than two sprays. I agree that it’s masculine but when I wear it people think it’s feminine.
Great review 👍 i love this fragrance i was luckey to find an original bottle of this i hate the look of their new bottles do not know if they even reformulates the fragrance it self i hope not
Rogue Perfumery isn’t IFRA compliant for these reasons. Their motto is “Bureaucracy Destroys Art.” The real oak moss in Mousse Illuminee is fantastic. Would it be possible to have a non-IFRA line with extra warning labels?
The assessment / compliant side is really massive. They have to be IFRA compliant or the insurance does not cover them. I can make things that are not IFRA compliant But I cant sell them.
Aaron Terence Hughes I’m sure that is frustrating. But it could also be looked at as an opportunity to branch out to different raw materials or chemicals. Especially if someone has a background in chemistry!
What is happening to fragrances?? I understand ifra banning ingredients ruining a lot, but why is the STRENGTH always compromised? Like, why is IFRA banning all the ingredients that make perfume strong, full of sillage and lasting power? Or why cant synthetics last longer
Sadly I think they also remove the raw material to increase their profit, which is pretty sad in my opinion as you loose the initial art that was created. I do not think art should work like this. I'm willing to pay more for art. Art and luxury come at a cost, but again I don't think most people consider perfumery as an art...
To me Angelique noire is like Eau Duelle but I’d probably buy Eau Duelle over it next time, and I find Chergui to be more formal yet cozy and much less vanillic. I do have both but love Chergui much more.
Aaron Terence Hughes i did! It does smell amazing. Not sure when the reformulation occurred, but my batch is from 2015. If someone else knows if it was reformulated after I would be happy to send a sample to you
I wonder if either you got a watered down sample or if Serge Lutens has poor quality control standards because I had a 2019 batch of this fragrance about a year ago and that stuff was monstrously strong on my skin. 2-3 sprays would easily create a nice scent bubble around me and the longevity was consistently 18-20 hours. The fact that you sprayed it that much and can barely smell it is rather odd. I also had one from 2010 and the smell and performance of it then was identical to the 2019 one I had.
I have heard great things about Initio parfums, would love to hear your thoughts on that house, oud for greatness, side effect, rehab, atomic rose and psychedlic love are the most talked about:)
IFRA Restrict natural compounds and force high priced proprietary synthetics. Yup that sounds about right. It's already dominated the food industry with GMO's and whatnot. Surprised it took this long to get around to cosmetic materials.
I agree, people should be able to decide for themselves. No country should have the right to remove your access to something under the guise of "keeping you safe"
I have the original and it projects. It is a masterpiece. I would send you a decant but my bottle is almost empty. IFRA is ruining the fragrance industry!
Oh that’s a shame because I love mine but I don’t wear it often as it settles into a skin scent rather quickly for me. When it’s freshly sprayed it is divine
So is the IFRA just one of those organizations that create the demand for their work? IE, just create regulations for the sake of regulations because otherwise they would be out of a job? I can't imagine that there's any sort of growing allergen problem in the world of perfume that needs solving...
I have actually heard speculation that some people think they are in cahoots with some of the companies that produce synthetics and aromachemicals. Those companies stand to make ALOT of money if IFRA keeps banning certain ingredients. I have heard that some people involved in IFRA are profiting from these companies. I don't know if this is true or not but it is an interesting idea that maybe certain people are banning ingredients to line their own pockets rather than for safety reasons. This is one of the reasons that I like living in the US. We don't have to follow IFRA. We have several indie fragrance companies here that poo-poo on the IFRA regulations and just don't sell their product in Europe.
Completely agree, some fragrances a had 2 years ago are like piss water now because they have been re-formulated tobacco vanille is a prime example it’s was an absolute powerhouse and since the rights were sold to Estée Lauder it’s really tame now! Such a shame as I love power houses, I literally want something to offend people it’s that strong,
Yes currently have tobacco vanilla and oud which I really like, and you sent me samples of ozone which I think is absolutely wonderful and I got a sample of your oud, I thought that was a little patchouli heavy for me but it’s a absolute monster of a scent, also a good one you might like to review would be tom fords ombré leather it’s a power house of a leather scent, love to wear it to piss my work colleagues off!
Yes Estée Lauder certainly ruined a few gems :( :( and what pisses me off is they keep the same pricing. I’ve still got an original Tuscan leather and tobacco vanille but I’m scratching my head over my new bottle of oud wood to be honest
Damn right, my old tobacco vanille is still a monster and a bottle I bought last year really isn’t anywhere near as good, I have tried Costa Azzurra also which has been demoted and is now 120 rather than the 240 it used to be, and it’s still good but just not as good, but it’s ok for 120 now. It’s a real shame that some of these firms are “watering” down the fragrances.
@@optimusmorton Tom Ford should have put something about that in his sales contract. All we can do now is make it clear on review sites/social media that we aren’t happy. Means possible less sales for them I guess 🤷♂️ I’m over them for now anyway lol. I wonder if they’ve messed with the female leaning scents. I love champaca and cafe rose on my wife.
Lutens was not bought out by Shiseido. Lutens created a number of fragrances for Shiseido, starting with Nombre Noir in 1982. In 1992, Shiseido opened Salons du Palais Royal. Lutens created his famous Feminite du Bois to be sold exclusively at this Shiseido[-owned] store. By 2000 his fragrances were getting so much traction, Shiseido created a separate Lutens brand using existing fragrances like Feminite du Bois, Ambre Sultan, etc. More fragrances followed since. From my limited experience with Lutens (I only own and regularly wear Fille en Aguilles, but have also warn/tried Chegrui and others), the fragrances last moderately but the silage decreases a lot. Re: Ifra, they also ban raw materials that come from endangered or unsustainable sources, like certain types of oak moss - v rightly, in my opinion. In addition, it's not just about the wearer. People can get an allergic reaction just by coming into contact with someone. I don't want to be negative or critical, but perfume is a luxury - a luxury, I personally enjoy. But, is it worth sacrificing the health of others or trashing the planet for this luxury?
Herod doesn’t really smell like this. Chergui smells more like Enigma from Roja. I kid you not I own both and I got the vibes when I first smelled Roja’s. Composition is eerily similar.
Surprising that a perfumer would live ignoring Serge Lutens, the ultimate niche creator. He was the absolute first in the artistic perfumery and his style and name are legendary. I'm amazed, perfume lovers and fragrance creators don't study history...
Ah, I don’t know, I wouldn’t trust people to use logic to make rational decisions... for the most part, anyway. With the kinds of people that exist, I can’t blame companies for shielding themselves from any and all liabilities.
We all have to stop this Nanny state control of our lives. I am an adult and perfectly capable of making my own decisions. These regulations have gone out of control.
@@AaronTerenceHughes I am feeling some kinda way about Dior Addict EDP (2014). Don't get me wrong, I still adore it, BUT it has nothing on 2002 Addict. Life hasn't been the same since its first reformulation in 2012. 😢